IT 


^, 


y] 


>  :^ 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


1.0 


2.2 


I.I 


■-1^    |2.5 

"•     u 

i.8 


Mi& 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


1  ''^^  1 

Mil  14 

m 

^ 

6"     

». 

23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14S80 

(716)  872-4S03 


'^ 


V 


.# 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  MIcroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


The  Institute  has  attempted  to  obtain  the  best 
original  copy  available  for  filming.  Features  of  this 
copy  which  may  be  bibliographically  unique, 
which  may  alter  any  of  the  images  in  the 
reproduction,  or  which  may  significantly  change 
the  usual  method  of  filming,  are  checked  below. 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


I      I    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


□    Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pelliculde 


Cover  title  missing/ 

Le  titre  de  couverture  manque 


^ 


I      I    Coloured  maps/ 


D 
D 
D 


D 


D 


Cartes  gdographiques  en  couleur 

Coloured  ink  (i.e.  other  than  blue  or  black)/ 
Encre  de  couleur  (i.e.  autre  que  bleue  ou  noire) 

Coloured  plates  and/or  illustrations/ 
Planches  et/ou  illustrations  en  couleur 

Bound  with  other  material/ 
Reli6  avec  d'autres  documents 


Tight  binding  may  cause  shadows  or  distortion 
along  interior  margin/ 

La  re  liure  serr6e  peut  causer  de  I'ombre  ou  de  la 
distortion  le  long  de  la  marge  intdrieure 

Blank  leaves  added  during  restoration  may 
appear  within  the  text.  Whenever  possible,  these 
have  been  omitted  from  filming/ 
II  se  peut  que  certB>nes  pages  blanches  ajout^es 
lore  d'une  restauration  apparaissent  dans  le  texte, 
mais,  lorsque  cela  dtait  possible,  ces  pages  n'ont 
pas  6t6  filmies. 

Additional  comments:/ 
Commentaires  suppl6mentaires: 


L'Institut  a  microfilmd  le  meilleur  exemplaire 
qu'il  lui  a  6td  possible  de  se  procurer.  Les  details 
de  cet  exemplaire  qui  sent  peut-dtre  uniques  du 
point  de  vue  bibliographique,  qui  peuvent  modifier 
une  image  reproduite,  ou  qui  peuvent  exiger  une 
modification  dans  la  m6thode  normale  de  filmage 
sont  indiquds  ci-dessous. 


1 


D 

D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 
D 


Coloured  pages/ 
Pages  de  couleur 

Pages  damaged/ 
Pages  endommagdes 

Pages  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
Pages  restaurdes  et/ou  peilicui^es 

Pages  discoloured,  stained  or  foxed/ 
Pages  d6color6es,  tachet6es  ou  piqudes 

Pages  detached/ 
Pages  ddtachdes 

Showthrough/ 
Transparence 

Quality  of  print  varies/ 
Quality  indgale  de  I'impression 

Includes  supplementary  material/ 
Comprend  du  materiel  suppl^mentaire 

Only  edition  available/ 
Seule  Edition  disponible 

Pages  wholly  or  partially  obscured  by  errata 
slips,  tissues,  etc.,  have  been  refilmed  to 
ensure  the  best  possible  image/ 
Les  pages  totalement  ou  partiellement 
obscurcies  par  un  feuillet  d'errata,  une  pelure, 
etc.,  ont  M  film^es  d  nouveau  de  fagon  d 
obtenir  la  meilleure  image  posssble. 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  fiimd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiquA  ci-dessous. 

10X  14X  18X  22X 


26X 


30X 


z 


12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
possible  c  jnsidering  the  condition  and  legibility 
of  the  original  copy  and  in  Iceeping  with  the 
filming  contract  specifications. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
the  last  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, or  the  back  cover  when  appropriate.  All 
other  original  copies  are  filmed  beginning  on  the 
first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illustrated  impression. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  —^(meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 

Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


L'exemplaire  film6  fut  reproduit  grdce  d  la 
g6n6rosit6  de: 

Library  of  Congress 
Photoduplication  Service 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  6t6  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet6  de  l'exemplaire  film6,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 

Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprim6e  sont  film6s  en  commen9ant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  par  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration,  soit  par  le  second 
plat,  selon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  film6s  en  commen^ant  par  la 
premidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbole  — ►  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbole  V  signifie  "FIN". 

Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  dtre 
film6s  d  des  taux  de  reduction  diff6rents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  dtre 
reproduit  en  un  seui  clich6,  il  est  filing  d  partir 
de  Tangle  sup6rieur  gauche,  de  gauche  d  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bas,  en  prenarit  le  nombre 
d'images  n^cessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  m^thode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

:^^^  ^b*AA^^ 


-^  -.„*  -?-"■•  ^?— ■•t'i'ti*^'*'*"**'*'*^  ■  ff   '    -  i.*i?'-J'\--'*Jl 


( 


A  JOl 


A  (iKAPII 


LEN'Gf.;! 


TH 


«*  — -v--.-_.    -^ --*t«|J%«Si'*fr«-X.J  i". 


.■  -\^M  "l*!.;.^  Ill  III  N* 


^^'' 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


OR 


A  JOURXAI.  OF  A  VOYAGK  TO  AND  I  KO.M 

EUROPE. 


[Gwifym  lorwfrfh  Gwynn:\ 

A' ;K.VPII1c,   INTKRESTINO  AND  HISTORIC\L  ACCOUNT  Ol     II  \vv% 
AM)   EVKNTS,   KMBRACINC;   PORTIONS  OF 

[EN'Gt.AM.,    IkKf.AN-D,    SCUTJ.AND,    WaI.KS,    FrwiI-. 

Anu  the  Caxadas,     - 

Y  I.yfr  liivii  li.b  a'l  ll„  .,  lilr,-«K*y*0  j 
Ainryw  £«lnI(JD  tywir  ;  • 

Vndo  Cfilr  dftaoi  «iriWrf       \  ,    x      a^^  i 
For  Ik  thiijf  ilrM  for  «  diir.,  .        **^| 


'yf\hi^ 


NEW    YORK. 

VlliMSllEU  AM)  snl.n  j.dk  t|1K  ALTIiUK  IJV 

THEf AMERICAN    NEWS  COMPANV 

Xos.  i()  c^-  21  Nassau  Street. 
1870. 


Entered  according  to  Act  of  Congress,  in  the  year  1870,  by 

W.  E,  WHYTE, 

In  the  office  of   the  Congressional'  Librarian,  at  Washing- 
,  ton.  D.  C. 


[tbb  ubrary 

l#r  CONGRESS 

IwAiHiMgrowj 


AS  CL 
T 


J- 


TXMPEB^SCK   PATItlOT   PitINT, 
^       ITIC*,  Hi  Y. 


■if    ! 


in  the  year  1870,  by 
arian,  at  VVashing- 


Jo  THE    American  Citizen, 

THE  MEMBERS 

OK    THE 

"PITTSTON   CALEDONIAN  CLUB," 

PITTSTON,     I'A. 

AS  CLANSMEN,   AND    IN    REMEMBRANCE    OK   THE    KIND    HO.SH- 

TALITY    EXTENDED    TO    }IIM    BY    THE    CLUB    ON    His 

RETURN  FROM   EUROPE,  THFS   BOOK   IS,  WITH 

PROFOUND   RESPECT, 

DEDICATED. 

BY    THE 


i!.- 


iti 


AUTHOR 


'I'hc 


CONTENTS. 


PREFACE. 

The  aiillioi  IIo  iiitio.luces  liimsi-ll  Is  piniid  (if  Ins 
iiatlvilv  llisljiilli  'Jill'  piomisu  ol  ;i  iiohlc  l.oid  —  ll 
avails  him  nothinij — Dcaili  of  his  fatlici  —  His  niothcr 
An  only  legacy — The  wolf  is  kcpi  from  ilie  door — 'I'lic 
last  of  his  father's  race — Resides  willi  his  grandnxjlhcr — 
Indiilgcncf — "  S|)ari'  the  rod  and  spoil  tlv-'  ihild" — Don't 
believe  in  it — Kindness,  love  and  good  advice — ItirL-li 
rods — Chastising  children — Education — In  a  lawyer's 
office — In  a  incrcaiililc  way — In  a  siiip  Imildcr's  vard  — 
Don't  like  either — I'refers  "  A  life  on  the  ocean  wave,  a 
liome  on  tlte  rolling  deeij" — As  an  apprentice  boy  on 
hoard  ship — I'celingson  embarking — Regret,  shame  and 
fear — Outward  bound — The  pilot— A  mother's  tears— 
"(Jo  ahtad  slow" — A  sailor  in  dress,  if  not  inexperience 
— A  mother's  last  f.irewell — A  lull  heart — Tears — Sea 
sickness — Wishes  he  was  ashore — Make  a  better  soldier 
than  a  sailor — A  week  in  purgatory — At  sea — A  poor 
appetite — All  right — St.  Jago  de  Cuba — Vcllow  fever — 
Homeward  bound — Yellow  fever  again — Deaths  at  sea 
— A  mournfid  sight — Arrival  home — Evtiy  inch  a  saiLn- 
— Tbc  past  buried  in  oblivion — The  pride  and  envy  of 
his  V)laym:ites — Jails  to  the  four  quarters  of  the  globe — 
Went  ill  through  the  hawsepipe  and  ( anie  out  through  the 


li 


VI 


Contents, 


rabin  wiiulow — Is  an  old  sail — Marriage — Abandons  a 
sailor's  life — Fills  various  occupations  on  terra  firma — 
Emigrates  to  this  country — Making  and  keeping  money 
iwo  dinercni  things — Me  embraces  an  opportunity — 
Oecidcs  to  go  to  Europe — Diaries  and  a  diary — Leaving 
home — Arrival  in  New  York — Introduces  "  ().  T.  A." 

LETTERS  I   AM)  II. 

'  SKA    JOIKNAI,. 

Outward  bound — Sandy  Hook — A  head  wind — A  strong 
Northeaster — A  polite  ship — Sickly  tributes — A  good 
meal — Sorrow — Death  is  preferable — A  change — Unsea- 
sonable weather — Sociable  officers — A  mixed  company 
An  old  friend — An  idol — System — Shuffle — Divine 
service — A  Scotch  piper — A  fair  wind — All  sail  set — 
Signalizing  a  ship  on  the  banks — Cod  fishing — A 
second  attack — Misses  an  overcoat — Ship's  latitudes — 
— DilVercnce  in  time — Politics  and  war — Just  the  thing — 
Beautiful  twilight — "  Immortality  of  the  soul" — Too  deep 
—Sea  gulls — A  testimonial — Land  oh  ! — The  pilot— 
Movillc — The  parting — Loch  Foyle — Londonderry — 
Irish  ]iolice  and  porters — The  hotel.        -        -        25-23 

LETTER  III. 


Dubli 
n 
( 
5 
n 

C 
F 
a 


IRKLAM). 

Origin  of  Londonderrv — Names — The  charter — Its  gates — 
Bridges — Cathedrals,  &c — The  siege — A  brave  man — 
Public  buildings — Gents  in  green — Supposed  Fenians — 
The  arrest — A  polite  officer — An  honorable  discharge — 
Forward. 41 

LETTER    IV. 

On  through  Coleraine,  &c — A  delightful  green — Belfast — 
Population — A  rich  Marquis — Linen  and  poplin — The 


Holyl 

s 

b 
F 
n 
a 

ri 

Ci 

C 


.)^C*vt^^;st)>»^.£&£^/9i^i£^^3fei%^tt^^^»R<.-«<;ri%^  •  -^jUff 


Conlfiits. 


vii 


I: 


age — Abandons  a 
i  on  Urra  finna — 
id  keeping  money 
an  opportunity — 
1  a  diary — Leaving 
uccs  "  ().  T.  A." 

II. 


wind — A  strong 
triliiites — A  good 
\  change — Unsca- 
i  mixed  company 
I — Shuffle — Divine 
id — All  sail  set — 
—Cod  tishing — A 
-Ship's  latitudes — 
r — Just  tiie  thing — 
c  soul" — Too  deep 
oh  I — The  pilot — 
e — Londonderry — 
25-23 


lirs;  Bible — Newspapers — Public  buildings — Antiquities 
— An  oil  I  ridge — Botanical  gardens — On  through  I.is- 
burn,&.^.,  to  Dundalk — An  ancient  town — Kobert  Hruce 
— His  death  —  Distilleries — Brewers— riuirches — King 
("ormac  —  Tara's  Halls — Dangan  Castle — The  first 
church — St.  Patrick — On  again — Slane — Drogheda — 
River  Boyne — James  II  and  William  Prince  of  Orange  — 
Population — Religions  sects — Cronnvell — ;\  blot — A 
flying  King — Schoniberg — The  obelisk — Balbriggan*- 
Factories — -Swords — Malahide-  The  castle— An  abbey 
— The  whistle— Dublin  :  Dublin!  I  Dublin!  !  !        -     4S 

LETTER    V. 

Dublin — The  hotel — Americans — Cost  of  poplins — Govern- 
ment house  — Castle — Chapel  —  State  aiiartmcnts  — 
Cornwallis  —  Washington — St.  Patrick's  C\ithcdral — 
Mr.  Ouiness— Generosity — Post  Office  -  Nelson  monu- 
ment— Custom  House — Trinity  College — PluL'nix  Park 
— A  sham  fight — Zoological  gardens — Cemetery — Dan 
O'Connell— Honest  Tom  Steele — Curran— Mount  Joy 
Prison — The  Fenian  chiefs — St.  Stephen's  green — Irelar.d 
and  Irishmen — Roj-al    Mail  steamship,  iScc.      -      -      54 

LETTER  VL 


larter — Its  gates — 
— A  brave  man — 
ipposed  Fenians — 
orable  discharge — 
41 


green — Belfast — 
and  poplin — The 


WALES. 

Holyhead — The  breakwater — Government  steamers — South 
stack— 365  steps — An  ancient  monastery — A  thick  wall 
A  Waterloo  hero — Tubular  bridge — Suspension 
bridge— A  long  tunnel — Anglesey— Conway  castle — 
First  Prince  of  Wales — "  Ich  Dion  "— "  Eich  Dyn  " — The 
meaning  Chester — A  fine  hotel — An  old  city — its  wall 
and  gates — Royal  persons — The  siege— Eton  hall — A 
rich  nobleman — Servility  -  The  old  cathedral— The 
castle  —  Wre.xham — Llangollen — Jenny  Jones  —  Chirk 
Castle — Owain  Gwynedd  and  Henry  II.        -        -       62 


vm 


( 'ontiiits. 


i.i;iti:r  \ii. 

Sliii\v!,l)Ul\— A  lKiiiilii.ll  r.isllt— Tllf  liilllli-^Wclsli  tliniicl 
I'opiilatiiiii  —  llcnford— 'I'll!'  i  :iiIk'<1i.i1  — N'cll  (Iwyii  — 
Charlfs  II  .111(1  ti;iiriik  —  Anuil  Inn  I  lie  Nflsdii 
iciluriili  —  M.iiiul.iiluus  —  l'<)|iiil.ilii>ii  —  Mil  r^'iiviiiiiy— 
Hhun.uoii— rniiiiliii  viadiui  -Alitr'hm  — ('winm-ild  — 
Noalli— 'I'lif  (astir— Tlir  alilitv— Uriduii'il  — St.  FldiKiis 
—'I'hf  lastlL  — Hiistiil  cliaiinci— The  Drake  family— 
Wii'cks  and  H-rt'ikcrs— The  cluircliyard — MorrisKni  — 
( )iir  own  pci)|ik'— -Swan>^i_a  —  l'n|iiilali()n  —  l^xliiisivc 
copper  and  silver  works — I'loaliiit;  docks -Copper  ore 
trade — Sea  batliini^ — Tin-  Lii>.tl'  — l'ul)lic  liiiiidiiiKS— Am 
old  friend  — Muinliles— A  uood  loadMead— Oyster- 
iiioutll  (^aslle — Oysteis. '>! 

i.i;iii:R  \iii. 

I.lanelly  —  Old  linies--Marriage -- A  tloiirishing  (own — 
l'"xtensive  copper,  coal,  iron  and  lead  works — A  ^real 
t'lnn — The  nuukel  place — A  substantial  memorial  — 
Old  friends— Kidwelly — Once  an  inii)ortanl  place— The 
church,  caslle  and  priory— Llanstcphan — The  caslle — 
W(lsh  costiiiiies  —  Cockles — A  luxury — I.onghor — 
Hirthplace — The  old  castle  and  chutch — Little  changed 
—The  (luirchyard — A  chinme — A  sad  scene— The  head- 
stone— The  old  lioiise— Anold  dame— A  village  store — 
"  Yes,  indeed  !'  pride- Nonsense— ("arregCenen  Casilc 
— A  Welsh  warrior— I. land ilo- Fa wi — Strah-Towey castle 
— Dynevor  Castle — Noted  residences — Tallcy  abbey — 
Roman  encampment— The  Romans — A  battle — The  re- 
sult.        -         - Si 

f.ETTER  IX. 

Llandovery —  The  keep  —  Welsh  college  —  Cardifl" — An 
important  place — The  residence  of  Princes — Cardaff— 
Cromwell — A  deserter — Served  him  right — Marquis  of 


it.. 


iilc-^WiUli  tliiniK'l 
li.il  — Nell     (Iwyii  — 

IiiM  rill'  Nflsim 
)n  —  Atii  Tgiiviimy— 
r<l;iM — Cwmni'ild  — 
idyriid  —  S|.  DiiniUS 
(•  Draki'  fnniilv — 
lyanl — MorrisKiii  — 
■  iilnlioii  —  ilxliiisivi' 
locks  -  ('iipp(.'r  nrc 
iblii-  Iniikliiifis-  All 

I(i:uIsI(';hI  —  ( )vstcr- 


Huiiiisliin^'  tDwii  — 
iul  works — A  gre;it 
laiuial  lucmoriiil  — 
ipDitam  placr — TIk^ 
[)han — The  casilc — 
iixiiiv —  I.oiiglior — ■ 
eh — I.iltlf  changed 
d  scene — Thehead- 
: — A  vilhitte  store — 
"arreg  Ccnen  C'asilc 
-St  rah -To  wey  castle 
Ds — Talley  abbey — 
—A  battle— 'I'he  re- 
81 


ege  —  Cardifl" —  An 

Princes — Cardaff— 

right — Marquis  of 


Conliilti, 


ix 


Bute-  An  enttrptisiiig  nobleuKiii— Vast  liuating  docks 
—Newport— All  old  friend— Kxleusivc  floating  docks- 
Iron  ore  and  iron— The  chartists— Ocrleon  and  IJsk— 
Stately  mansions— Chepstow  -F:arly  history— Tl\e  castle 
— The  river  Wye—"  A  true  born  Knglishman"— Crom- 
well—A  desperate  resistance— Heroic  achievement — 
The  result. ,        .        .    g8 

I.ETTKK  X.  ■ 

I'arish  church  of  Chepstow— (Iravcs— Public  buildings — 
River  Wye— Salmon  fishing — Bridges— Wind  cliffe — 
Tintcrn  abbey  -Moss cottage— Wales  and  Welshmen. 

107 

I.KTTER    XI. 

knh;i..ani». 

Bristol— Origiu—Karly  history— War  and  plunder— Bar- 
barous cruelty— A  city— Riots— Clifton— Suspension 
bridges  —  Clifton  bridge  — Cathedral  —  Population — 
London  — Early  history— Metropolitan  underground 
railway— St.  Paul's  cathedral— The  great  clock— Whis- 
pering gallery— Nelson  and  Wellington.       -       -       iSi 

LETTER  Xll.    " 

Tower  of  London— Beef-caters— Traitor's  gate— It.s  various 
towers  and  armories — Instruments  of  war  and  torture — 
Prison  cells — England's  regalia,  itc,  iVc.      -     .      taS 

LETTER  XIIL 

Hampton  Court— Cardinal  Wolsey— Henry  VIII— Resi- 
dence of  Royalty— Aristocratic  paupers— Ancient  furni- 
ture, &c. -    138 

3A 


X  Contents. 

LETTER  XIV^ 

Windsor  Castle  —  The  state  apartments— St.  George's 
diapel — Elegant  inemorial  window — Divine  worship — 
Royal  tomb  house— Monument — The  round  to\vcr — 
Terrace  grounds— British  museum — Sydenham — Tiie 
Crystal  Palace — The  great  orchestra — Two  great  singers 
— The  various  courts — American  skating  floor,  &c.    147 

LETTER  XV. 

IRANCK. 

Dieppe — Railway  cars — River  Seine — Paris — A  crowded 
hotel— French  language— Paris  all  France  Beautiful 
streets,  walks,  and  drives  -  Fetes  de  Napoleon — The 
Emperor — "  Palais  del'  Exposition  Universalle" — Hotel 
(les  Invalidcs,  ^'c.         ......     jjg 

LETTER  XVL 

"  Halles  (,'entral  " — St.  Chapelle — Notre  Dame — St.  Eti- 
enne  du  Mont — Pantheon— Hotel  de  Cluny — Palais 
du  Luxembourg — (,'orps  Legislatif— Madeline— Place 
Vcndome — Palais  du  Louvre — Place  de  la  Concorde — 
— Bois  de  Bolougne — Champs  Elysees — Paris  generally 
— A  red  republican  guide's  opinion — The  Emperor — 
Prince  Imperial,        .        ,        .         ...        167 

LETTER  XVII. 

Palace  of  Versailles  -  Statuary— Pictures  by  the  mile— Ter. 
races  Gardens— Walks— Fountains— Triannons,  kc  — 
— St,  Cloud — .Sevres — Balloon  ascent— Paris  again.  175 

LETTER  XVIIL 

Strasbourg  Clock  —  Leaving  Paris  — Norm.-\ndy— Johnny 
'Crapeau — A  yard  of  bread — Vin   Ordinaire— Rouen — 


Resi 


Dcp 


On 


eiits  —  St.  George's 
■ — Divine  worship — 
rhe  round  to\ver — 
m — Sydenham — Tiie 
1 — Two  great  singers 
ating  floor,  &c.    147 


■Paris — A  crowded 
I  France  Beautiful 
de  Napoleon — The 
[Tnlversalle" — Hotel 

-     n8 


!■'-■  Dame — St.  Eti- 
de  Cliiny — Palais 
f — Madeline — Place 
;e  de  la  Concorde — 
_"es — Paris  generally 
»n — The  Emperor — 
-        -        -        167 


:s  by  the  mile — Ter. 
i — Triannons,  &€.— 
nt — Paris  again.  175 


<f  ornL-indy  —  Johnny 
Drdinaire — Rouen — 


m 


Contents. 


XI 


Manchester  of  France — An  obliging  Englishman — 
Cathedral — The  church  of  St.  Oucn — Place  dc  la  Lucelle 
— Joan  of  Arc— Motel  du  Bourgtheroulde— Palais  dc 
Justice — Notre  DameLc  Roscre — River  Seine — Dieppe 
— Sea  bathing — Manufactures,  &c— A  rough  passage — 
Mean  accommodations— London  again.        -        -      181 

.LETTER  XIX. 

F.Nni.ANU    AG.^IX. 

Rest— Houses  of  Parliament -Westminster  Abbey— Horse 
guards — Trafalgar  Square— Sommerset  House— Na- 
tional gallery— Zoological  gardens— Madame  Tussauds 
^Spurgcon.        -         -         -         -         -        -  '      -     t8() 

LETTER  XX. 

Departure— Euston  Square  station — London  and  North- 
western Railway — Sixty-five  miles  an  hour— Delivering 
and  receiving  the  mail — Taking  in  water — A  quick 
ride — Manchester  agricultural  fair— Cotton  factory- A 
variety   of  people — Departure.         -         -         -        -107 

LETTER  XXI. 

SCOTLAND. 

On  the  road — O.xhcnliolme  Junction — An  old  friend — Sad 
news— Windermere  lake— Penrith  castle— Carlysle — An 
old  friend— Hasty  lunch — O'er  the  border — The  land  o' 
cakes— The  "noble  Esk"— Castleton— St.  Boswell  — 
Newburgh  abbey — Newstead  —  Melrose  —  The  royal 
standard— The  Queen— Melrose  abbey — The  "Lovely 
Tweed" —Abbottsford,  Borthwick  and  Creichton  castles 
— Mary  Queen  of  Scots— Firth  of  Forth— Edinburgh  — 
Cockburn  hotel — Scott's  monument  -Princess  street- 
Rich  and  costly  jewel  rj',        .....      204 


f.   * 


xii  'Contents, 

LETTER   XXII. 

Edinburgh  castle— The  ill-fated  Mary — James  VI — Prison 
rhainbcr — Scotland's  regalia — Opening  of  the  great 
chest— Great  jo)- — no  years  elapsed — Queen  Margaret's 
chapel— Mons  Meg — Holyrood  Palace — Portraits — 
Darnlej' — Rizzio — Murder.  ....    212 

LETTER  XXriI. 

Chapel  royal— King  David — Ancient  tombstones — Arthur's 
seat— Royal  institution — Antiquarian  museum — John 
Knox — National  gallery — Callow  hill — National  monu- 
ment— High  school— Prison— Knox's  house — Regent 
Murray's  house— Union  cellar — Old  Parliament  house 
— Allan  Ramsaj-— Sorry  to  leave — Linlithgow  — Faikirk 
— Bannockburn— Stirling.        .        .       .        .      ^    220 

LETTER   XXIV. 

Stirling  castle— The  Douglass  room— The  secret  chamber — 
The  archway — An  impolite  woman — A  polite  and  atten- 
tive soldier — The  battlements — Abbey  Craig — WalKice 
monument — Beautiful  view — An  old  building — The 
King  and  Regent— Ancient  orthography — The  cathedral 
— Beautiful  monuments — An  odd  inscription — Argyle 
Lodge — Lord  Darnley  and  James  VI — Bothwell's  house 
— The  first  bawbee — A  royal  tailor — Balloch — Lochlom- 
ond  —  Dumbarton  —  The  Clyde  —  Glasgow  —  Cobden 
Hotel.        .        -        .        *.        ....        225 

LETTER  XXV. 

A  smoky  city  -The  cathedral — A  plain  and  unpretending 
sermon — Memorial  windows — The  Necropolis— Ele- 
gant monuments  -  Public  squares — Royal  and  other 
monuments — Glasgow  University — Wellington  monu- 
ment— Shipbuilding — Paisley — Shawls — Lochweinon — 


-r^^K.- 


Cl 
"I 
tav 
Ba 


Ayr— E 
pai 
On 
Th 
Th 


Burns  ] 
< 

Th 

ter 


Leaving 
Pu 
we 
can 
chi 
anc 
Lai 
Th( 
Th< 


Quebec 
viei 
of  i 
Mo 


I. 

—James  VI — Prison 

3ning    of    the    great 

I — Queen  Margaret's 

Palace — Portraits — 

-     212 

I. 

ombstones — Arthur's 
ian  museum — John 
lill — National  monu- 
ox's  house — Regent 
Id  Parliament  house 
■Linlithgow  —  Faikirk 
•    220 


^he  secret  chamber — 
— A  polite  and  atten- 
)bey  Craig — Wallace 
I  old  building — The 
raphy — The  cathedral 
inscription — Argyle 
/I — Both  well's  house 
—Balloch — Lochlom- 
-  Glasgow  —  Cobden 
225 


n  and  unpretending 
le  Necropolis— Ele- 
5 — Royal  and  other 
—Wellington  raonu- 
awl  s — Loch  weinon — 


*<iMiHi«MMaiiMi|pa 


Contents. 


xiii 


Curling— Scotch  pig  iron— Ardrossan— Firth  of  Clyde— 
"  Land  o'  Burns"—"  Twa  Brigs  o'  Ayr,"— The  old 
tavern— "Tarn  O'  Shanter  and  Souter  Johnny"— John 
Barleycorn — "  Auld  grey  mare" — A  stormy  night.      232 

LETTER   XXVI. 

Ayr— Bay  of  Ayr— Greenan  castle— Ailsa  craig— The 
parish  chnrch— Oliver  Cromwell— The  Wallace  tower- 
On  the  road — The  cottage — The  kitchen — The  recess — 
The  old  oak  dresser— The  old  grate— Alloway  Kirk— 
The  grave  yard — The  Burns  and  other  graves.      -      339 

LETTER  XXVII. 

Burns  Hotel — The  monument — Auld  Brig  O'Doon — Relics 
— Statuary — "  Ye  Banks  and  Braes  o'  Bonnie  Doon" — 
The  poet  on  the  banks  of  the  Doon— The  Tarn  O'Shan- 
ter  poem — Scotland  and  Scotchmen.      .        .        .    247 

.   LETTER    XXVIII. 

Leaving  Glasgow— Liverpool— Its  docks,— Birkenhead — 
Public  buildings— Englishmen  and  Frenchmen — Fare- 
well— On  board  the  steamship  "  Peruvian" — Giant's 
causeway — The  "  Hibernia"  again— Waving  of  handker- 
chiefs— Moville  again — The  mails — At  sea — A  stormy 
and  cold  passage— Icebergs — Belle— Isle — Gulf  of  St. 
Lawrence  —  Aurora  borealis — River  St.  Lawrence  — 
The  Mirage — Island  of  Orleans— Arrival  in  Quebec — 
The  log — Remarks.        - 255 

LETTER   XXIX. 

CANADA. 

Quebec  — The  Caleche  — The  citadel— A  delightful 
view— Prince  of  Wales— General  Montgomery— Plains 
of  Abram— "  Here  died  Wolfe"— A  great  fire— Falls  of 
Montmorency — A    traitorous    bridge — A  terrible   dis 


i';i 


1  ;t 


i*i 


II 


xiv  Conknti. 

aster — Quebec  as  it  was  and  as  it  is — Public  buildings, 
&c — The  steamer  "  Quebec" — Away  up  the  St.  Law- 
rence.       .-         -.         ...         ..        261 

LETTER    XXX. 

Montreal — Its  history  in  brief — Shipping  —  Cathedral- 
Churches  and  public  buildings— Jeff  Davis — Victoria 
Bridge— Companions  du  voyage — Still  up  the  St.  Law- 
rence— Beautiful  scenery — The  canal — Prescott — Og- 
densburg — Thousand  Islands — Lake  Ontario — King- 
ston— An  old  friend — A  distinguished  personage — Pop- 
ulation, &c. — Toronto  —  A  long  street — Hamilton 
—Niagara  Falls— Buffalo— Great  Bend— HOME— An 
opinion — Appendi.\ — How  to  travel— Address  before 
the  P.  (',  C.        -        -         -         .        -        -        -        270 


To  TIIK   F 

Kveryth 

writer,  wli 

appears  tc 

.gent  and  ( 

the  Atlant 

[ilacc,  he  w 

life  ; — I  iiir 

infancy,  an 

;ind  had  I  1 

"thcr  side 

might  have 

I'Iscwherc  ; 

^ve  have  to 

with  being 

I'ither  will  ( 

my  career  t 

*  Allhouj 
Scotch  and 
latter  three 
purely  Jfch 


is — Public  buildings, 
ray   up   the  St.   Law- 

261 

ipping  —  Cathedral  — 
-Jeff  Davis — Victoria 
Still  up  the  St.  Law- 
canal — Prcscott — Og- 
akc  Ontario — King- 
ihed  personage — Pop- 
ig  street — Hamilton 
Bend— HOME— An 
xvel— Address  before 
270 


PREFACE. 


To  TiiK  Rkadi.r  : 

Kvcrything  has  its  uu,;u>r,  and  i,  is  in  that  capaci.v  the 
wr.tcr.  while  a  blush  sufTuses   his  coun,er,a„cc,  modestly 
appears  ,0  make  his  y/.-.v /.-.,t,vi,hi„  covers),  to  an  in.elli- 
.^ent  and  charitable  public;  and  before  introducing  "  O'er 
•I'c  Atlantic-  ,0  the  reader,  thinking  i,  will  not  be  out  of 
I'lace,  he  would  fain  give  a.bricf  outline  of  his  career  through 
l.fc  ;-I  am  the  eldest  of  three  brothers.  „ne  of  whom  died'in 
■nfancy.  and  the  other  after  arriving  at  the  age  of  maturity 
and  had  r  not  the  good  fortune   ,0  have  been  born  on  the' 
"ther  side  of  the  Atlantic,  i,  is  more  than  probable  that  I 
.night  have   been  ushered  into  the  world  on  this   side  or 
^■l^'cwhere  ;  1„„,  as  wc  are  the  creatures  of  circumstances 
"•e  have  to  be  content  with  wherever  our  I   t  is  cast,  and  I 
with  being  a  m/s/n„an  by  birth.*  a  C-lf,  a  Bri/o,,,  a  Cymro 
.ther  will  do,  for  I  am  proud  of  my  nativiiv  ;  and  althouHi 
my  career  through  life  has  been  as  diversified  as  it  generally 

*  Although  a  Welshman  by  birth   I  have  IV^;,r,    n..  r  1 
.SW.   and  /m/.   blood   cou'sinr  hr^h  rif  veSf^he 

« S   /Iv/r'Vt'?./'?  P="""^'  -de.  Vmother'bei' g 
pureij   nclsh.     Ihe  family  name  was  Cz/^/Zm-.  ^ 


XVI 


Preface. 


Is  to  those  who  are  born  under  "  certain  planets,"  mine 
being  none  of  the  best,  I  would  nevertheless  bow  submis- 
sively to  fate,  for  I  might  have  fared  worse  yes,  mncli 
worse. 

It  was  A.  D.,  1826,  on  the  17th  day  of  May,  that  youi 
humble  servant  first  gave  utterance  to  his  vocal  powers, 
which,  noisy  as  they  were,  did  not  exceed  the  noise  on  the 

street,  for   it  was  election  day.     Lord  J s  S — w — I  and 

Sir  W — y — m  L — w — s,  were  running  "  neck  and  neck  "  to 
represent  the  good  people  of  our  ancient  borough  in  Parlia- 
ment. I  fotget  the  result  I  But  recollect  being  informed 
several  years  afterwards  that  his  Lordship  was  the  suc- 
cessful candidate,  and  that  he  had  made  a  promise  to 
my  grandsire  on  the  maternal  side,  in  return  for  some  little 
favors  bestowed,  that  should  the  squealing  youngster  up 
stairs  (meaning  myselO.  ever  need  a  friend,  I  was  to  apply 
to  him  ;  and  based  upon  this  long  pent  up  promise,  when 
about  i8  years  of  age,  I  did  apply  to  his  Lordship  for  his  influ 
ence  in  my  behalf  to  obtain  a  government  appointment,  and 
soon  received  a  very  courteous  reply  stating  that  unfortu 
nately  at  that  time  his  political  friends  were  all  but  of  office, 
otherwise  he  would  have  been  very  pleased  to  serve  my  inter- 
ests ;  but  that  should  the  time  ever  arrive  when  he  could  do 
so,  he  would  not  forget  a  promise  made  so  many  years  before 
to  one  who  had  served  his  interests  so  zealousl)-.  I  have 
never  heard  from  his  Lordship  since.    But  I  am  digressing. 

My  memory  carries  me  back  to  when  aUout  five  j'cars  old 
(more  or  less),  at  which  time  my  father  had  the  misfortune 
to  fall  from  off  his  horse  and  fracture  his  skull,  a  circum 
stance,  suffice  it  to  say,  that  ruined  the  family,  for  he  never 
was  able  to  attend  to  business  afterwards.    He  dragged  a 


"  certain  planets,"  mine 

iverthelcss  bow  subrais- 

fared   worse  yes,  muci'i 

I  day  of  May,  that  youi 
ce  to  his  vocal  powers, 
exceed  the  noise  on  the 

lOrd  J s  S — w — I  and 

ing  "  neck  and  neck  "  tu 
icient  borough  in  Parlia- 
ecollect  being  informed 
Lordship  was  the  suc- 
ad  made  a  promise  to 
,  in  return  for  some  little 
sijucaling  youngster  up 
a  friend,  I  was  to  apply 
;  pent  up  promise,  when 
his  Lordship  for  his  influ 
'nment  appointment,  and 
ply  stating  that  unfortu 
ids  were  all  Out  of  office, 
)leascd  to  serve  my  inter- 
arrive  when  he  could  do 
ade  so  many  years  before 
sts  so  zealoush'.  I  have 
re.  But  I  am  digressing, 
vhen  altout  five  5'ears  old 
ither  had  the  misfortune 
:ure  his  skull,  a  circum 
the  family,  for  he  never 
erwards.    He  dragged  a 


Preface. 


XVII 


inisfr;ibit'  cNisniui  fur  .ibuut  ilucc  veins,  ivliiii  dciitii  :it 
last  came  to  Ills  reliel.  Le;iviiij4  Id  my  niotlitr  ;i  womuii  of 
slcriing  merit  ((iod  bless  lur  iiieiUDry),  an  only  le.uacy,  that 
of  myself  ami  a  yoiiiiftei  biollicr,  dependant  upon  liei  own 
exeillons  for  siippoil,  wliicli  she  had  already  done  for  vears 
pre\lons.  Oil  1  how  well  do  I  recolleel  how  she  had  lo 
battle  with  adversity,  and  how  well  slie  (notwithstandiiit; 
llie  diiricullies  she  had  to  encounter),  inanaj,'ed  lo  "keep 
tlie  wolf  fioin  tlie  door,"  and  elollied  lis  respeelablw  Alas  I 
she  also  has  departed  for  the  spirit  world,  and  I,  the  only 
representative  of  my  father's  race  thai  I  know  of,  am  still 
permitted  lo  sojourn  among  mortals. 

A  few  years  after  my  father's  death,  1  went  i<i  live  with 
my  grandmother,  on  the  maternal  side,  aiul  continued  under 
her  hioad  afivii*  and  protection  until  the  time  arrived  for 
me  to  rhorsc  for  myself  the  liiisiness  or  occupation  in 
which  I  Wis  lo  carve  my  w.-iy  through  this  old  world. 
Grandmothers,  as  )-oii  arc  no  doubi  well  aware,  jienerally 
spoil  the  members  of  the  succeeding  generation,  and  if  any 
lioy  was  petted  or  spoiled,  it  was  my  humble  self;  but  with 
a  good  intent,  for  she  invariably  rebuked  me  when  sayins; 
or  doing  wrong  It  was  her  warm,  kind  generous  nature  thai 
revolted  against  the  use  of  the  rod,  and  the  fault  (if  any) 
was  in  her  being  loo  iiuiuti:;ciil,Un  kindness  does  much  lo 
train  youth  in  the  way  ihey  sl)ould  go.  I  am  no  believer  in 
>'  spare  the  rod  and  spoil  the  child."  Kindness  begets  love, 
and  love  begets  obedience.  Timely  and  good  advice  well 
given  is,  in  my  estimation,  worth  all  the  birch  rods  in  the 
conntry.    The  parent,  in   my  opinion,  only  harden  youth, 

•The  Welsh  women  wear  heavy  wide  flannel  aprons  of 
tripe  and  tartan  pattern. 


XVllI 


Preface. 


i 


and  render  llieni  cruel  in  themselves  liy  adniinislcrinK 
corporeal  cliastisenient.     But  as  to  myself. 

After  receiving  a  common  school  education,  in  which  I 
made  but  little  progress,  I  was  sent  to  a  relative,  an  attorney 
by  profession,  with  whom  1  remained  some  considerable 
time  as  copyist  and  errand-boy;  but  that  kind  of  life  not 
suiting  my  taste,  I  was  placed  in  a  mercantile  establishment, 
which  was  too  confininj;  for  my  roving  nature,  a  few  weeks 
therefore,  was  all  I  remained  there.  About  this  time  I  had 
a  longing  for  sca-faring  life  ;  to  be  a  sailor  and  visit  foreign 
climes  seemed  to  be  the  height  of  my  ambition,  which  after 
having  tried  the  ship  building  business,  also  to  no  purpose, 
my  mother,  who  was  very  much  opposed  to  a  sea-faring 
life,  eventually  acceded  to  mj  becoming  an  apprentice  boy 

on  board  the  ship  E h  U s,  commanded  by  a  relative 

'."•'?  traded  to  the  West  Indies, 

I  shall  never  iorget  the  feeling  that  came  over  me  when 
on  the  eve  of  leaving  port.  It  was  then  that  my  courage 
all  but  failed  riie,  for  I  was  leaving  home.  That  home 
which,  in  the  language  of  the  song,  was  "  Home  Sweet 
Home  "  to  me,  to  go  to  a  distant  land,  perhaps  never  to 
return  again.  Then  my  mother,  my  poor  dear  mother, 
almost  became  frantic,  for  it  had  entered  into  her  mind  that 
she  would  never  see  her  "darling  boy"  again.  Yes, 
reader,  so  sad  did  I  feel,  that  had  it  not  been  for  shame,  a 
fear  that  my  playmates  would  laugh  and  jeer  at  me,  1 
would  have  gone  on  shore,  and  thus  would  have  ended  my 
idea  of  a  sailor's  life.  But  it  was  too  late  to  hesitate,  the 
vessel  was  taking  in  her  moorings,  and  the  loud  voice  of 
the  pilot  could  be  heard  above  the  din  of  the  windlass 
and  capstan,   creaking  of  blocks    and  loud  singing  of  the 


I  rew  a 
rhains. 
Then  c 
tow  us 
■loa.  ' 
sailor, 
ciuay  V 
heart  ' 
headwi 
lew,  ar 
In  a 
pretty 
to  be  s 
wande 
I  had  I 
rope  St 
so  stro 
sick, 
could, 
any  or 
drink  i 
and  in 
the  Ci 
under 
for  me 
ship's 
mand. 
more  < 

•Sa; 
sickne 
but  fei 


elves  by  adminislcrin« 
myself. 

)I  education,  in  which  I 
Ui  a  relative,  an  attorney 
ined  some  considerable 
ut  that  kind  of  life  not 
lercantilc  establishment, 
ng  nature,  a  few  weeks 
About  this  time  I  had 
1  sailor  and  visit  foreign 
ly  ambition,  which  after 
ess,  also  to  no  purpose, 
pposed  to  a  sea-faring 
ming  an  apprentice  boy 
Dmmandcd  by  a  relative 

lat  came  over  me  when 
i  then  that  my  courage 
ing  home.  That  home 
\g,  was  "  Home  Sweet 
land,  perhaps  never  to 
ny  poor  dear  mother, 
ered  into  her  mind  that 
ng  boy"  again.  Yes, 
t  not  been  for  shame,  a 
igh  and  jeer  at  me,  I 
i  would  have  ended  my 
oo  late  to  hesitate,  the 
,  and  the  loud  voice  of 
le  din  of  the  windlass 
id  loud  singing  of  the 


Pye/ace. 


xtx 


rc'W  as  they  clieerliilly  pulled  in  the  heavy  hawsurs  and 
hains,  and  coiled  them  away  Into  their  respective  places. 
Then  came  the  word  to  the  tug-boat,  which  was  engagv'd  to 
tow  us  to  the  roads  or  place  of  anchorage,  prior  to  going  to 
M-a.  "  (Jo  ahead  slow."  I  stood  on  the  deck  drcssud  a  Ui 
lu'lor,  almost  stupefied,  and  saw  my  dear  mother  on  the 
ciuay  wave  her  handkerchief  a.s  her  last  farewell,  for  her 
heart  was  too  full  'n  speak,  as  the  vessel  began  to  gather 
lieadway.  Then  came  to  my  relief  a  flood  of  tears,  a  goodly 
lew,  and  1  felt  better. 

In  a  couple  of  hours  we  arrived  in  the  roads.  It  was 
pretty  rough.  The  ship  rolled,  then  pitched,  and  I  seemed 
to  be  standing  first  upon  my  head  then  on  my  heels,  and 
wander  around  the  deck  like  a  drunken  man,  until  at  last 
I  had  to  come  tD  my  moorings,  which  I  did  among  a  lot  of 
rope  stowed  away  in  the  fore-castle,  where  the  tar  smelled 
so  strong  that  it  added  to  my  malady,  for  I  was  terribly  sea 
sick.  At  that  time  I  would  have  given  the  world,  if  I 
could,  to  have  got  on  shore.  There  was  no  sympathy  from 
any  one.  The  rude  sailors  laughed  at  me,  telling  me  to 
drink  a  pail  full  of  salt  water,*  that  then  I  would  be  all  right 
and  many  other  such  unkind  remarks.  During  the  night 
the  Captain  cantie  on  board,  and  ordered  the  ship  to  get 
under  weigh  and  proceed  to  sea,  and  afterwards  inquired 
for  me.  He  was  told  that  I  had  been  sick  ever  since  the 
ship's  arrival  in  the  roads.  "  Send  him  aft,"  was  the  com- 
mand. Aft  I  came,  first  holding  on  to  one  thing  then  another, 
more  dead  than  alive.    Said  he :  "  So  you  are  sea  sick,  eh  ? 

•  Salt  water  is  supposed  to  be  an  excellent  remedy  for  sea 
sickness,  for  it  has  a  tendency  to  strengthen  the  stomach  ; 
but  few  are  able  to  take  it. 


XX 


Preface. 


*  1  make  particular  mention  of  those  facts  of  my  first 
voyage  to  sea,  simply  to  sliow  my  readers  that  sea-farinj; 
life  was  not  tliat  whicli  my  young  mind  had  supposed  ii 
would  b(! 

t  The  funeral  service  at  sea  is  very  impressive,  and  is  thai 
which  is  laid  down  in  the  Book  of  Common  Prayer  for  such 
occasions. 


Ill  di 
liorc  tl 
felt  all 

I  sea  ii 
ilicn   ! 

icaien  ti 


ivagc, 
c-light 


Vou   i\i('   a    preliy   sailor.     Make  .\  bt-iti-r   soldier  than 
sailor,    1    think.     (»o  and   wash    vour    faci'    and  hands  an 
vou  will  feel   lietler."     1  essayed   to  do  so,  hut  nature  h:i. 
to  \i\\v  way,  and  sprawllnir   I    went   down  the  cal)in  slai 
moaning  piliouslv. 

I  remained  |)arlially  in  this  drijlorahlc  iHindition  for  pi' 
haps  a    week,  performing  surh  work  as  1  was  able  to  dn  lofrain 
during  which  lime  my  stomach   refused  all   noiirishnieni|l  was'/' 
liul  al  ilie  end   of  that   time  "  Richard  was  himself  again. 
On  our  arrival  ai  St.  .lago  de  Cuba,  I  was  the  first  victini  t 
the  vellow  fever,  and   instead  of  sending  me  to  the  hospitn   md  adl 
my  kind  relative  sent  me  to  a   private  hoarding  house,  an(  lery  mi 
although  my  life  was  al   one  time  despaired  of,  under  tli( 
kind    treatment   of  the   ladies   of  the   house,  1    recovcrei 
•  siilhciently  and  in  lime  to  join  the  ship  when  ready  for  sen 
In  a  few  days  after  leaving  Si.  Jagn,  the  yellow  fever  broki 
out  on  board,  and  carried  away  witli  it  several  of  our  crew 
among  ihein   my  fellow  apprentice,  his    first    voyage   liki 
myself  to  sea  ;*  but  1  continued  to  gain  strength  daily,  and 
felt  as  though  the  past  had  been  forgotten.  \\'e  buried  them  in 
fhe  deep  blue  sea,  a  sad  and  mournful  sight,  smved  up  in 
their  hammocks,  with  a  heavy  weight  attached  to  their  feel 
They  were  launched    over  the  ship's    side  into   the  brin\ 
deep,   to    become    perhaps    food    for    the    monsters    which 
inhabit  the  Atlantic.! 


Aftei 
made  i 
.\meric 
during 
globe, 
;md  W 
I  anean 
it  woul 
lirief  ai 
I'onnec 
sailor, 
for  plci 
maritii. 
and  ca 
on  boa 


*\V1 
duties 
ihem  ii 


'  n  IjfitiT   .soldier  than 
i)ur    faci'    ;uk1  haiuls  an 
to  do  so,  but  nature  h:ii 
■nt  <lown  the  cabin  slai 


Preface.  '' 


xxl 


111  due  course  of  lime  we  arrived  home,  and  once  on 
liore  the  dangers  of  the  past  were  speedily  forgotten,  and 
felt  almost  a  veteran  sailor,  determined  to  weather  it  out 
ii  sea  in  all  weather  and  at  all  hazards.  My  dear  mother, 
hen  she  saw  me,  shed  tears  of  joy,  and  I,  the  weather 
',v//i7»  tar  of  a  single  voyai;<-  loathe  West  Indies,  could  not 
ork  as  I  was  able  to  dn  tlrain  from  sheddinff  tears  also.  Among  my  old  playmates 
refused  all  nourishmeni  \  \s?i.%  big  Jiijun7l  With 'a  face  very  nearly  as  dark  as  the 
<avagc,  they  all  courted  my  acquaintance,  and  gazed  with 
clight  at  my  sailor  figure,  while  they  listened  with  wonder 
ending  nn-  to  the  hospita  mtl  admiration  to  the  account  I  xave  them  of  the  voyage, 
vale  boarding  house,  an(  lery  much  exaggerated  of  course  ! 

After  my  boyhood's  career  at  sea,  during  which  time  I 
made  several  voyages  to  the  West  Indies  and  North 
America,  1  served  in  various  capacities  on  board  ship, 
during  which  time  1  sailed  to  the  four  ((uarters  of  the 
Slobe,  and  visited  some  of  the  leading  ports  in  the  East 
and  West  Indies,  North  and  South  America,  the  Mediter- 
lanean  Sea,  the  Dardanelles,  and  the  sea  of  Marmora.  Hut 
it  would  be  futile  on  my  pan  to  endeavor  to  give  even  a 
brief  account  of  the  places  I  have  visited,  and  the  incidents 
connected  therewith,  as  also  those  attending  the  life  of  a 
sailor,  with  its  hardships,  privations  and  hair  breadth  escapes^ 
for  pleasures  there  are  but  few  (if  any)  suffice  it  to  say  (in 
maritime  parlance),  that  "I  went  in  through  the  ha%vsepipe 


lorablc  iHindition  for 


hard  was  himself  again 
I,  I  was  the  lirst  victim  t< 


B  despaired  of,  under  tin 
the  house,  I  recoverei 
;  ship  when  readv  for  sen 
n,  the  yellow  fever  brok^ 
ill)  il  several  of  our  crew 
•A\  his    first    voyage    liki 

)  gain  strength  daily,  and 
rotten.  \\'e buried  them  ir 

irnfnl  sight,  sowed  up  in 

gilt  attached  to  ihcir  feel 

lip's    side  into   the  brinv 

for    the    monslcrs    wbicli 


'  those  facts  of  mv  first 
y  readers  that  sea-faring 
ig  mind  had  supposed  it 


ry  impressive,  and  is  thai 
Common  Prayer  for  such 


and  came  out  through  the  cabin  window,"*  and  have  served 
on  board   ship  in  almost  every  capacity,  during  a  period  of 


*  Which  implies  that  a  person  has  thoroughly  studied  the 
duties  of  a  seaman,  thus  becoming  iiinipetent  to  discharge 
ihem  in  every  respect, 


:r  ). 


:| 


xxH 


Pre/act. 


about  13  years,  I  therefore  lay  a  decided  claim  to  the  title, 
old  salt  I 

In  1848,  I  was  married,  and  soon  afterwards  abandoned 
sca-faring  life,  and  served  in  various  occupations  on  ttrrn 
frma,  some  of  which  were  connected  with  shipping,  till  1855, 
when  I  emigrated  to  this  country,  with  a  view  to  better  my 
condition  in  life.  How  successful  I  have  been  in  that  particu- 
lar I  leave  the  reader  to  guess.  I  still  work  for  a  living,  and 
expect  to  do  so  during  the  remainder  of  my  career ;  but  I 
find  no  fault  with  the  opportunities  I  have  had  to  make 
'money,  perfectly  satisfied  that  to  make  and  to  keep  it  are  two 
diflercnt  things.* 

For  several  years  after  my  arrival  in  this  country  I  looked 
forward  with  much  pleasure  to  the  time  when  circumstances 
ivould  permit  mc  to  cross  the  broad  Atlantic  once  more  to 
pay  a  visit  to  my  native  land,  and  it  was  not  until  1867,  and 
after  traveling  much  in  this  country  (cast,  west  and  south),  did 
the  opportunity  occur.  I  was  not  long  making  up  my  mind 
as  to  the  day  and  date  which  would  see  me  on  board  the 
steamer  for  Britain,  so  commenced  immediately  to  put  my 
worldly  afTairs  in  order,  and  as  I  had  been  in  the  habit  of 
keeping  a  diary  of  the  weather  and  events  for  many  years, 
the  thought  instantly  struck  me  that  I  would  while  on  the 
trip  keep  a  diary  on  a  much  more  extensive  scale,  of  scenes 
and  events  abroad.    Hence  "  O'er  the  Atlantic  !" 

We  left  home  on  a  beautiful  day  in  June,  when  everything 

*  With  all  due  respect  for  Shakespeare's  assertion,  "That 
there  is  a  time  in  the  affairs  of  men,  &c.,"  some  people  make 
money  by  blundering  into  or  out  of  an  enterprise,  and  not 
because  they  are  smartenhan  others,  but  owing  to  a  "streak 
of  luck." 


.iroui 
l<c»t. 
were 
I  he  a 
IIS  be 
I  carl: 
were 
iliouj 
on  I 
appn 
we  a! 

.1  VO) 

In 

say  t 
befoi 
colui 
frien 
to  pi 
Voys 
licati 
inter 
of  n 
arriv 
whic 
henc 
In 
rema 
in  El 
Woo, 
parti 
link 


I       .1 


.:^. 


lecided  claim  to  the  title, 

on  afterwards  abandoned 
3US  occupations  on  ttrrn 
cd  with  shipping,  till  1855, 
with  a  vii'w  to  better  my 
[  have  been  in  that  particu- 
ilili  work  for  a  living,  and 
nder  of  my  career  ;  but  I 
ties  I  have  had  to  make 
ike  and  to  keep  it  are  two 

I  in  this  country  I  looked 
time  when  circumstances 
ad  Atlantic  once  more  to 
t  was  not  until  1867,  and 
cast,  west  and  south),  did 
ong  making  up  my  mind 
lid  see  me  on  board  the 
1  immediately  to  put  my 
lad  been  in  the  habit  of 
d  events  for  many  years, 
at  I  would  while  on  the 
ixtensive  scale,  of  icenes 
the  Atlantic !" 

n  June,  when  everything 


ipeare's  assertion,  "That 
&c.,"  some  people  make 
f  an  enterprise,  and  not 
s,  but  owing  to  a  "  streak 


Pre/ace. 


xxiii 


.iruund  ihv  Iidusc  and  neighborhood  wcic  dicssud  in  nature's 
best.  Sorry  were  we  to  leave,  and  it  was  not  until  the  ponies 
were  driven  to  the  door  to  take  us  to  the  railway  depot  did 
ilie  acute  pangs  of  sorrow  at  parting  from  those  so  dear  to 
us  begin  to  take  cfTcct.  A  few  inaudible  words,  kisses  and 
tears,  with  a  silent  pressure  of  the  hand  was  enough  and  we 
were  gone — gone,  we  thought,  perhaps  to  return  no  more,  a 
thought  which  nigh  determined  us  to  mm  l);ick  ;  but  once 
on  board  the  cars  we  felt  somewhat  better,  and  as  we 
approached  the  great  city  of  New  York  better  still,  where 
we  arrived  that  afternoon,  quite  reconciled  to  the  chances  of 
a  voyage  to  Europe.         ♦«•»»* 

In  introducing  this  little  volume  to  the  public,  I  would 
say  that  it  was  not  written  with  the  intention  of  putting  it 
before  them  in  its  present  form,  but  for  insertion  in  the 
columns  of  a  weekly  newspaper,  published  by  a  particular 
friend  of  mine  in  Wilkes  Barre,  Pa.,  who  done  me  the  honor 
to  publish  the  whole  of  my  letters,  under  the  heading  '  A 
Voyage  to  Europe,"  occupying  about  six  months  in  their  pub- 
lication,  which,  I  am  pleased  to  say  were  read  with  much 
interest  by  the  subscribers  to  the  Luzerne  Union,  and  others 
of  my  friends  and  acquaintances,  some  of  whom  on  my 
arrival  home  importuned  me  to  publish  them  in  book  form, 
which,' after  due  thought  and  advice,  I  concluded  to  do, 
hence  their  appearance  under  a  new  name  and  in  a  new  dress. 

In  conclusion  I  would  avail  myself  of  this  opportunity  to 
remark  that  while  I  am  under  many  obligations  to  friends 
in  Europe  for  information,  and  to  KohVs  History  of  Ireland, 
^Yoodv.<ard^s  History  of  Wales,  Black's  Guide,  &c'  I  claim  no 
particular  merit  for  the  book,  but,  if  I  have  managed  to 
link  together  facts  and  incidents  connected  with  the  past 


XXIV 


Preface, 


unci 'present  liistorj- of  tlie  places  wc  visited  interesting  to 
my  readers,  I  shall  feci  more  than  glad  tlial  my  humble 
eflbr's  to  please  have  not  been  in  vain.        t^"^' 

w.  ]•:.  wiiYTt:. 

West  Pittston,  Pa.,  July  4th,  1870. 


'»i»'*mm9im>mm 


wc  visitL-d  iiuciestiiig  lo 
an  ,i>:lad  that  my  humble 
■aiii.        f^*^' 

W.  K.  WIIYTK. 


O'ER  THE  ATLANTIC. 


*.? 


LETTER  I. 


AMERICA. 


New  York,  /une  Mi,  1867. — The  weather  dur- 
ing the  last  few  days  has  been  sultry  and  ht>t,  so 
much  so  that  it  has  been  quite  oppressive.  The 
steamship  Hihernia,  of  the  Anchor  Line,  Capt.  Mun- 
ro,  plying  between  New  York  and  Glasgow,  left 
Pier  20,  Nortli  River,  about  noon,  on  her  voyage 
across  tlie  Atlantic,  with  a  full  list  of  cabin  pas- 
sengers, and  a  great  many  in  the  second  cabin, 
intermediate  and  steerage,  principally  comprised 
of  persons  going  to  visit  relatives  and  friends  in 
various  parts  of  Europe.  Such  being  my  own 
case.  My  wife  and  her  brother  accompanying 
me  with  a  view  of  seeing  scenes  and  life  in  the 
"  Old  World." 

Ar    SKA. 

Scarcely  had  we  got  off  Sandy  Hook,  (where  the 
pilot  left  us)  before  our  fellow  passengers  began 

A 


»6 


O'er  the  Aflantic. 


to  feel  the  iiiHuence  of  a  strong  N.  E.  wind, 
which,  being  ahead,  made  tlie  gallant  ship  as 
polite  as  a  French  dancing  master,  and  ere  the 
supper  bell  had  rang,  all,  with  but  a  few  excep- 
tions, were  paying  sickly  tributes  to  Neptune. 
Thanks  to  my  former  experience  of  a  seafaring 
life,  I  felt  like  partaking  with  a  relish  of  the  good 
things  so  nicely  laid  out  for  the  evening  repast, 
so  sat  down  at  the  Captain's  table  with  the  airs 
of  an  old  salt.  At  8  p.  m.,  wind  increasing, 
bringing  on  sea-sickness  among  the  passengers  in 
its  most  terrible  form.  The  cries  and  moans  of 
the  poor  victims  are  pitiful  to  hear,  some  wishing 
they  had  never  lett  terra  firma,  and  others  almost 
preferring  death  to  the  endurance  of  the  malady, 
my  wife  and  her  brother  not  the  least  among  the 
number,  but  they  are  fortunate  in  having  me  to 
devote  that  attention  to  them,  which  they  could 
not  otherwise  get,  for  the  stewards  and  stewardess 
have  too  much  to  do  among  so  manj^  passengers. 
Midnight. — It  now  blows  a  gale  of  wind  and 
the  ship  is  under  double  reefed  fore-and-aft  sails, 
and  laboring  heavy,  the  more  so,  in  consequence 
of  being  loaded  by  the  head  Avith  seventy-five 
tons  of  coal,  temporarily  stowed  in  the  waist* 
before  leaving  New  York,  large  quantities  of 
which  is  washed  away  as  she  dives  under  a  head 
sea,  which  put  me  in  mind  of  an  old  sea  phrase : 
"  He  that  goes  to  sea  for  pleasure  may  go  to  h — I 

•  Forward  G.ing^vay. 


h 

tl 

II 
ii 
(J 
\ 
i, 
1; 
11 
li 

f 
t 
t 
0 

a 

a 
r 

(1 

F 
e 
c 
I 

t] 
\ 


lantU. 


O'er  the  AtliUitic. 


27 


strong  N.  E.  wind,  I 
tlie  gallant  ship  as 
J  master,  and  ere  the 
i'ith  but  a  few  excep- 
tributes  to  Neptune. 
;rience  of  a  seafaring 
:h  a  relish  of  tiie  good 
r  the  evening  repast, 
I's  table  with  the  airs 
m.,  wind  increasing, 
long  the  passengers  in 
e  cries  and  moans  of 
to  hear,  some  wishing 
««,  and  others  almost 
Li  ranee  of  the  malady, 
t  the  least  among  the 
late  in  having  me  to 
!m,  which  they  could 
;wards  and  stewardess 
f  so  man)^  passengers, 
s  a  gale  of  wind  and 
rfed  fore-and-aft  sails, 
ire  so,  in  consequence 
5ad  Avith  seventy-five 
towed  in  the  waist* 
,  large  quantities  of 
le  dives  under  a  head 
of  an  old  sea  phrase : 
jasure  may  go  to  h — 1 


for  pastime."  But  such  is  life,  for  how  often  dy 
we  pay  for  that  we  do  not  really  enjoy. 

9///. — This  is  the  Sabbath.  Wind  as  yesterday, 
but  accompanied  with  a  cold,  drizzling  rain.  All 
tiie  passengers,  with  the  excepliim  of  two  gentle- 
men and  myself,  still  very  miicii  under  the  dire 
inHuence  of  sea- sickness,  a  profitable  time  to  the 
owners  so  far  as  dietinfr  is  concerned.  Noon- 
Passed  a  barcpie  bound  to  the  eastward,  but  lay- 
ing too*  under  close  reefed  main  topsail,  and 
laboring  very  heavy,  very  much  more  so  than 
ourselves — during  the  last  thirty-six  lours  we 
have  made  but  little  iieadway. 

loth. — Fine  and  clear  day  with  a  strong  breeze 
from  the  old  quarter  (N.  E.)  Passengers  still  in 
the  arms  of  Neptune,  especially  the  ladies.  Af- 
ternoon— less  wind,  set  more  sail,  i.  e.  by  shaking 
out  the  reefs  of  the  fore  and  aft  sails.  Some 
gentlemen  passengers  have  made  their  appear- 
ance on  deck,  cutting  but  a  sorry  figure,  having 
anything  but  "sea  legs"  under  them.  To-day 
made  the  acquaintance  of  Capt.  Munro  and  the 
doctor  (Flemington)  of  the  ship,  two  unso- 
phisticated sociable  men.  Evening — more  mod- 
erate, made  the  acquaintance  of  Mr.  Reed,  the 
chief  officer,  with  whom  I  had  a  long  talk  while 
walking  the  deck  a  la  sailor,  a  gentleman  I  am 
much  pleased  with.  All  the  officers  seem  to  be 
very    gentlemanly  and   sociable  men,  just   the 


•  Hove  too.     Keeping  head  to  wind  and  sea  as  near  as 
possible,  so  as  to  weather  the  gale  the  easier. 


28 


0\r  the  Atlantic. 


kind   of  men   wlio  shuuld  officer  ii   ptissengcr 
vessel. 

1 1///. — A  beautiful  morning  witli  pleasant 
breeze,  but  still  ahead.  A  great  many  of  the 
passengers  feel  better  and  are  able  to  sit  at  the 
breakfast  table,  a  mixed  company,  comprised  of 
Scotch y  Irish,  English,  Welsh  and  American;  (if 
Welsh  there  are  only  two,  myself  and  a  gentle- 
man named  Thomas,  from  Utica,  N.  Y.,  with 
whom  I  was  acquainted  eleven  years  ago, 
since  which  time  I  had  not  seen  him  until 
we  met  on  board,  after  being  two  days  out 
of  New  York,  when,  after  some  little  conversa- 
tion pro  and  con,  we  recollected  each  other — 
glad  were  we  to  meet  under  such  peculiar  cir- 
cumstances and  renew  old  acquaintance.  Mr. 
Thomas  is  bound  to  the  same  part  of  Wales  as 
myself — his  parents  reside  about  twenty  miles 
from  my  native  place.  W^e  now  begin  to  be 
better  acquainted  with  the  officers  of  the  ship. 
Captain  Munro  is  the  idol  of  his  subordinates, 
whom  they  familiarly  term  the  old  man,  not 
because  he  is  any  older  than  either  of  them,  but 
because  it  is  a  sort  of  endearment.  Mr.  Reed, 
the  chief  officer,  is  a  plain,  matter-of-fact  man, 
every  inch  a  sailor.  Not  one  of  those  kid  glove 
kind,  but  a  whole-soul,  straight-up-and-down 
tar  of  the  old  school  I  he  passed  the  principal 
part  of  his  life  in  the  East  India  trade,  some 
portion  as  master,  and  it  is  presumed  tiiat  so 
soon  as  a  vacancy  occurs  in  this  line  he  will  be 


pr 

of] 

nrj 

}I< 

an 

se< 

is 

ex 

m< 

in 

m: 

un 

wc 

Ml 

pu 

ms 

la< 

so 

sh 

ch 

CO 

th( 

Tc 

pb 

is 

lir 

fifl 

fet 

a 

bl< 

sq 


itk. 

)fficcr  ii   piisscngcr 

ing  with  pleasant 
freat  many  of  the 
e  able  tu  hut  nt  the 
pany,  comprised  of 

and  American;  of 
yself  and  a  gentle- 
Utica,  N.  Y.,  with 
;leven  years  ago, 
ot  seen  him  until 
ing  two  days  out 
me  little  conversa- 
:cted    each  other — 

such  peculiar  cir- 
iicquaintance.  Mr. 
e  part  of  Wales  as 
bout  twenty  miles 

now  begin  to  be 
jfficers  of  the  ship, 
f  his  subordinates, 

the  old  man,  not 
either  of  them,  but 
irment.  Mr.  Reed, 
natter-of-fact  man, 
\  of  those  kid  glove 
aight-up-and-down 
issed  the  principal 

India  trade,  some 

presumed  that  so 
this  line  he  will  be 


O'er  the  Atlaulk. 


ig 


promoted  to  captain.  Mr.  Johnson,  the  second 
officer,  is  quite  a  young  man,  and  one  that  will 
no  doubt  make  his  mark  in  the  profession.  Mr. 
Henderson,  tiie  third  officer,  is  an  elderly  man, 
and  I  understand  is  to  succeed  Mr.  Johnson  as 
second  on  the  ship  next  voj-agc,  for  Mr.  Johnson 
is  to  remain  on  shore  to  undergo  the  usual 
examination  for  promotion  before  the  Govern- 
ment Board  of  Examiners,  which  is  very  strict 
in  the  British  Merchant  Marine  service,  for  no 
man  is  allowed  to  act  as  an  officer  on  board  of  ship 
unless  duly  qualified  to  do  so.  a  system  we 
would  do  well  to  adopt  in  the  United  States 
Merchant  Marine.  Dr.  Flemington  and  tie 
purser  Mr.  Brown,  two  very  polite  gentlemen, 
make  themselves  very  agreeable,  and  escort  the 
ladies  up  and  down  the  deck  with  that  gallantry 
so  generally  unusual  among  sea-faring  men,  in 
short,  they  flirt  with  the  ladies,  play  with  the 
children,  and  do  all  in  their  power  to  make  all 
comfortable  and  happy.  Mr.  MacTammany, 
the  chief  engineer,  is  also  a  very  pleasant  person. 
To-day  Capt.  Munro  introduced  a  game  to  be 
played  on  the  quarter  deck,  called  shufle,  which 
is  simply  a  number  of  squares  formed  of  chalk 
lines  on  the  deck  and  numbered  so  as  to  count 
fifteen  each  way,  then  the  player  stands  twenty 
feet  off  with  a  long  stick  in  his  hand,  resembling 
a  billiard  cue  rest,  and  pushes  with  it  a  rotind 
block  of  wood  with  a  flat  surface  towards  the 
squares,  when  he  that  counts  the  most,  which 


■-I 


^o 


O'l'r  the  Atlantii'. 


! 


i. 


depends  upon  whicli  square  liis  block  rests,  wins 
tlic  jjamc.  This  is  an  amusing  and  interesting 
game,  and  not  without  its  excitement,  a  game 
that  will  serve  much  to  do  away  with  the  monot- 
ony of  a  sea  voyage. 

12///. — During  the.  night  we  had  light  airs, 
and  in  the  early  morning  a  calm.  At  noon,  a 
light  wind  from  the  old  corner.  All  the  passen- 
gers on  deck  forgetful  of  the  past,  some  playing 
shuffle,  now  becoming  quite  popular,  others 
throwing  rope  quoits  over  a  wooden  }ieg  and 
into  a  bucket,  others  reading,  and  away  aft  are 
some  Democrats  and  Republicans  discussing 
American  politics,  which,  I  am  afraid,  will  not 
make  any  of  them  the  wiser,  for  stubbornness  will 
predominate  on  both  sides.  This  evening  a  Rev. 
Mr.  Kennedy,  assisted  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Sprovvl, 
from  Pittsburgh,  held  divine  service  in  the  cabin, 
and  later,  a  Scotch  piper  marched  up  and  down 
the  whole  length  of  the  ship,  as  stately  as  if  a 
Laird  of  the  Isles,  playing  upon  his  bags  the 
most  popular  airs  of  Scotland,  rriuch  to  the  de- 
light and  amusement  of  the  passengers,  after 
which,  the  passengers  retired  to  the  cabin  to  en- 
joy a  game  of  chess,  checkers,  whist,  euchre,  &c., 
the  Captain,  Doctor  and  Purser  joining  in  with 
them. 

13///. — A  fair  wind  and  warmer  weather,  all 
sail  set,  and  a  full  head  of  steam  on,  expect  to  be 
(m  the  banks  of  Newfoundland  this  afternoon. 
2;30  P.    M.  signalled  the   American  ship  /F«A 


mot 
ing 
Nij 
coll 
I 
ma 
no^ 
wh 
pos 
No 
Fn 
cat 
Ne 
tiv( 
seli 
are 
aft( 
loa 
ves 
stei 
wa 
gei 
oil 
on( 
the 
Ste 

lig 
am 
the 
ke( 
ral 


is  block  rests,  wins 
ig  iind  interesting 
xcitement,  a  game 
iiy  with  the  monol- 

ve  had  light  airs, 
:alm.  At  noon,  a 
^  All  tiie  passen- 
past,  some  playing 
e  popular,  others 
I  wooden  jieg  and 

and  away  aft  are 
t)licans  discussing 
m  afraid,  will  not 
r  stubbornness  will 
rhis  evening  a  Rev. 
!  Rev.  Mr.  Sprovvl, 
ervice  in  the  cabin, 
hed  up  and  down 
,  as  stately  as  if  a 
ipon  his  bags  the 
i,  rriuch  to  the  de- 

passeagers,  after 
to  the  cabin  to  en- 
whist,  euchre,  &c., 
er  joining  in  with 

irmer  weather,  all 
im  on,  expect  to  be 
nd  this  afternoon, 
nerican  ship  IVest- 


0\'r  the  Atlantic. 


3* 


moreland  bound  West.  Evening — Wind  increas- 
ing and  shifting  to  the  N.  W.  Shortened  sail. 
Night — Wind  more  northerly  accompanied  with 
cold  rain. 

14/A. — This  morning  light  airs,  yet  we  are 
making  good  headway  under  steam.  We  are 
now  crossing  the  banks,  in  a  fog,  with  the  fog- 
whistle  going  every  few  minutes,to  warn  ships  that 
possibly  may  be  in  our  track,  of  our  presence. 
Noon — drizzling  cold  rain.  Evening — passed  a 
French  barque  at  anchor,  with  her  boats  out 
catching  codfish. — Codfishing  on  the  banks  of 
Newfoundland  is  quite  an  extensive  and  hicra- 
tive  business;  during  the  season  hundreds  of  ves- 
sels of  various  tonnage,  from  100  to  500  tons, 
are  engaged  in  catching  and  salting  the  fish, 
after  which,  they  leave  for  various  places  to  un- 
load and  dry  the  fish  for  market ;  many  of  those 
vessels,  while  on  the  banks,  get  run  down  by 
steamers  and  other  vessels  crossing  to  the  east- 
ward and  westward  during  the  thick  fogs  which 
generally  prevail  in  these  latitudes,  and  which 
often  result  in  the  partial  or  total  destruction  of 
one  or  the  other  of  the  ships  colliding.  It  is 
therefore  highly  necessary  to  keep  a  good  lookout. 
Steamers,  in  addition  to  their  fog-whistles,  cp/ry 
lights  of  various  colors,  one  at  the  foremast  head 
and  one  on  each  side,  starboard  and  larboard  of 
the  bridge.  Sailing  vessels  blow  a  fog-horn  and 
keep  their  bells  ringing,  which  resembles  a  fune- 
ral knell,  hence  every  precaution  is,  or  if  not. 


32 


iVir  the  Atlitnlic. 


slifnild  be  exercised  to  prevent,  wlii«rh  too  often 
occurs,  siiips  getting  into  collision. — I  recollect, 
when  in  the  Quebec  trade  many  years  ago,  on 
tiie  passage  home,  crossing  the  banks  during  a 
heavy  gale  of  wind  from  the  N.  W.,  it  was  at 
night,  the  ship  running  before  the  wind  under 
double  reefed  topsails,  suddenly  and  within 
half  a  cable's  length  of  us  a  small  schooner  was 
seen  on  our  starboard  quarter,  hove  too,  with  the 
helm  lashed  down*  and  the  crew  all  below.  A 
minute  or  so  earlier  she  must  have  crossed  our 
bows,  a  narrow  escape  for  her,  for  had  the  ship 
struck  her  wc  would  have  run  clean  over  her, 
and  sent  her  and  the  crew  without  a  second's 
warning  into  the  land  of  fishes.  This  was  in  my 
boyhood  days,  but  it  seems  as  though  it  was  but 
yesterday. 

•To  dispense  with  the  services  of  .1  man  at  the  helm. 


'HtlC. 

3nt,  wlii<.'li  too  often 
tllision. — I  recollect, 
nanv  years  ago,  on 

the  banks  during  a 
he  N.  W.,  it  was  at 
ore  the  wind  under 
:ldenly    and    within 

small  schooner  was 
T,  hove  too,  with  the 
crew  all  below.  A 
ist  have  crossed  our 
ler,  for  had  the  ship 
run  clean  over  her, 

without  a  second's 
es.  This  was  in  my 
is  though  it  was  but 

>f  a  man  at  the  helm. 


O'er  the  Athnlii 


33 


LETTER   II. 

AT  SEA,  CONTINUED. 

June  IS///.— Strong  cold  northerly  wind,  and 
long-swelled  sea,  which  causes  the  ship  to  roll  very 
much,  creating  among  some  of  the  passengers  a 
second  attack  of  sea  sickness.  Noon— wc  are 
now  seven  days  from  New  York,  and  over  tin- 
banks  of  Newfoundland,  going  ten  knots*  per 
hour,  distance  run,  only  1200  miles,  yet,  if  we  have; 
luck,  may  possibly  complete  the  passage  by  this 
day  week  (Saturday).  Evening— more  moderate 
but  still  quite  cold,  causing  me  to  miss  very 
much  the  good  services  of  my  overcoat,  which  I 
negligently  left  behind  in  tlie  railway  car  at 
Scranton,  Pa.  Night— beautifully  clear  moon- 
light, two  hotirs  difference  in  time  between  us 
and  New  York. 

16///.— Early  morning  a  dead  calm,  or  what  is 
generally  termed  by  sailors,  "  Paddy's  hurricane 
up  and  down  the  masts  and  all  over  the  decks." 
and  heavy  swelled  sea,  the  ship  rolls  very  much. 

•  A  sea  mile. 


.M 


O'er  tin:  Allantie. 


f'J 


Six  A.  M — ;i  pleasant  breeze  from  the  west, 
which  contiiiiiefl  until  the  afternoon,  when  it 
veered  around  to  tiic  S.  VV.,  which  enables  us  to 
set  Oiir  fore  and  aft  sails  as  well  as  our  square 
sails.  Ship  jjfoing  eleven  knots.  We  are  now  in 
what  is  termed  the  "Rolling  Forties"  (40"  north 
lat.),  where  the  sea  is  generally  in  a  very  turbu- 
lent and  e.xcited  state,  skipping  and  Jumping 
like  boiling  water.  Kvening— a  drizzling  rain 
with  the  wind  from  the  saiit  quarter  but  fresh- 
ening. Ship  doing  well.  Pivine  .service  was 
held  in  the  cabin  this  morning  and  evening,  Rev. 
Mr.  Kennedy  officiating. 

17///. — This  morning  it  blows  ;i  strong  gale 
from  the  S.  W.,  with  a  very  high  sea.  Ship  going 
thirteen  knots  under  all  the  canvas  and  steam 
she  can  carry — such  weather  as  w'e  arc  having  is 
quite  unusual  for  June  ;  none  of  us  anticipated 
such  rough  cf  i*'  weather  this  season  of  the  year. 
Afternoon — wind  shifted  more  to  the  westward, 
and  the  ship  is  running  right  before  it,  with  the 
sea  very  high,  causing  her  to  roll  and  pitch 
heavily — notwithstanding,  she  proves  herself  to 
be  an  excellent  sea  boat.  Most  of  the  passen- 
gers are  now  confined  to  their  rooms,  some  sea  sick, 
and  others  for  the  want  of  "sea  legs"  to  enable 
them  to  move  about.  Evening — passed  a  ship 
«»n  larboard  t.tck*  under  close  reefed  main-top 
sail  and  mizzen  stay  sail.f  bound  to  the  westward. 

*  Wind  off  the  rij^ht  bow. 

f  Hove  too,  making  little  or  no  hcadwnv. 


wmttmmmm*-^ 


ilic. 


O'er   the  .\tliviti( 


35 


c  from  till"  west, 
iftcrnoon,  when  it 
b'lii<-li  enables  us  to 
ivell  as  our  square 
ts.  We  arc  now  in 
Forties"  (40"  north 
ly  in  a  very  turbu- 
>ing-  and  jumping 
— a  drizzling  rain 
quarter  but  frcsh- 
'•ivine  service  was 
;  and  evening,  Rev. 

ows  a  strong  gale 
gh  sea.  Ship  going 
canvas  and  steam 
as  we  are  having  is 
e  of  us  anticipated 
season  of  the  year, 
e  to  the  westward, 
before  it,  with  the 
to  roll  and  pitch 
:  proves  herself  to 
lost  of  the  passen- 
3onis,  some  sea  sick, 
sea  legs"  to  enable 
iig — passed  a  ship 
se  reefed  main-top 
fid  to  the  westward. 


Night — more  moderate,  divine   service  held   in 
the  cabin,  the  Rev.  Mr.  Sprowl  officiating. 

i8//i._Early    mor-ung — still    more  moderate, 
with  the  wind  from  the  N.  W.     Later— squally 
with  rain  and  a  slight  fall  of  snow  (queer  weather 
for  June)  all  the  canvas  set  and  the  ship  going 
eleven  knots.     Noon — worked  the  ship's  latitude 
for  the  first  time  in  eighteen  yeart.,  the  sun's  alti- 
tude was  60  deg.  51  min.,  and  the  declination  2.^ 
deg.    25  min.  N.,  which  gave  the  latitude  52  deg. 
22  min,    N.     Here  our  course  was  changed  to 
E.S.  E.  fron>  E.  by  S. ;  difference  in  time  between 
us  and  New  York  .^  hours  and   15  minutes,  and 
distance    to   Moville,   Londonderry,   950   miles. 
Two  p.    M — passed  and   signalled   the  Montreal 
R.  M.  S.  S.  Neston'iui,  five  days  out  from  Liverpool 
and    four    from    Londonderry.      Later— passed 
two  sailing  ships  on  the  larboard  tack,*  bound 
westward.      livening- squally,    with    rain    and 
hail.     8  p.   .M.  a  committee  met  to  draft  a  testi- 
monial, testifying  our  appreciation   of  the  very 
gentlemanly  and  polite  attention  paid  us  by  the 
captain  and  his  officers  during  the  passage.     We 
have  now  become  as  members  of  one/amily  and 
begin  to  feel  some  regret  at  the  prospect  of  a 
speedy  separation,  for  notwithstanding  the  in- 
clemency   of  the  weather,  we  have  passed  ten 
days  together  in  the  most  sociable  and  agreeable 
manner.     A  difference  of  opinions  has  certainly 
often  occurred,  for  instance,  on  politics,  and  the 


adwaA'. 


•Wind  off  the  left  bow. 


36 


O'n-   th,-  Atlantic. 


r" 


relative  abilities  of  CJeiierals  fJnmt,  McClcllaii, 
Sherman  and  others,  all  f)f  uhidi  ocriirred  in 
jj;ood  fecliniBf  and  without  an/yjer. 

19///. — An  exceedingly  fine  morning,  neither 
tof)  warm  nor  too  cold,  a  pleasant  breeze  continues 
fnmi  the  N.  W.  with  a  moderate  sea,  the  ship 
going  from  ten  to  eleven  knots.  Noon — passed 
and  signalled  the  steamer  Iowa,  of  this  line, 
which  left  f  JIasgo'-  on  the  14th  inst.,  and  Lon- 
donderry <in  the  15th,  bound  to  New  York. — 
Afterno«)n— wind  shifted  round  to  tht  northwest. 
Evening— the  wind  still  drawing  ahead;  X  p.  m., 
wind  from  N.  K. ;  ship  close  hauled*  but  going 
her  course  S.  E.  by  E.,  1-2  IC.,  it  has  again  be- 
come quite  cold.  Night— fresh  breeze,  and  "all's 
well"  is  heard  from  the  (piartermaster  as  he 
strikes  the  hour  on  the  bell,  which  is  promptly 
responded  to  by  the  lookout  man  on  the  forecas- 
tle deck. 

How  different  the  evenings  are  in  these  lati- 
tudes to  what  they  arc  in  New  York  and  Penn- 
sylvania; there,  almost  as  s«)on  as  the  sun  .sets, 
darkness  covers  the  earth,  but  here  we  have 
hours  of  beautiful  twilight,  which  must  be  seen 
to  be  api)reciated,  and  now,  at  10  p.  m.,  we  can 
see  to  read  on  deck.  Such  a  beautiful  soft  light ; 
and  I  am  informed  by  the  captain  that  in  Glas- 
gow, at  this  season  of  the  year,  it  continues  to  i  r 
o'clock  almost  as  light  as  day,  thus  making  the 
night  very  short,  for  the  sun  rises  as  early  as  3 

•  Sails  placed  so  as  to  be  of  some  benufii. 


uitii'. 


O't't    thf  Atliuitic. 


S7 


s  (Jiant,  McClcllan, 
f  wlii(  li  ocriin-cd  in 
for. 

e  niorniii^,  neither 
ijint  breeze  continues 
derate  sea,  the  ship 
ots.  Noon — passed 
Imva,  of  this  line, 
i4tli  inst.,  and  Lon- 
id  to  New  York.— 
nd  to  the  northwest, 
ring  ahead ;  8  v.  m., 
hauled*  but  goiiig 
E.,  it  has  again  be- 
•sh  bree/c.  and  "all's 
iiartermaster  as  he 
,  which  is  promptly 
man  on  the  forecas- 

afs  are  in  these  lati- 
tw  York  and  Pcnn- 
)on  as  the  sun  sets, 
but  here  we  have 
ivhich  must  be  seen 
at  lo  p.  M.,  we  can 
beautiful  soft  light; 
aptain  that  in  Glas- 
ir,  it  continues  to  i  r 
iiv,  thus  making  the 
1  rises  as  early  as  3 


s.  M.  How  delightful  this  must  be  lo  tln»se  i>er- 
sons  engaged  in  field  labor,  and  who  wish  to 
evade  working  out  in  the  heat  of  the  day.  Hr>w 
pleased  the  hard  working  man  in  America  would 
he  if  he  could,  during  the  summer  months,  '-iijoy 
such  a  privilege. 

I  have  now  made  up  my  mind  to  go  ashore  at 
Londonderry  and  go  from  thence,  via  Belfast  and 
other  places,  to  Dublin  by  rail,  thence  by  the 
government  mail  steamer  to  Holyhead,  &c.,  which 
will  give  us  an  opportunity  to  see  a  great  deal  f)f 
Ireland,  leaving  Scotland  until  our  leturn  home- 
ward. 

joM.— I>ight  and  variable  wind,  ship  going  her 
course  under  steam,  square  sails  furled,  and  fore 
and  aft  sails  drawing  but  slightly.*  Noon — 
pleasant  with  smooth  sea.  Distance  to  Moville, 
Londonderry.  468  miles.  Afternoon— furled  all 
sails,  thev  being  of  no  use.  ship  going  nine  knots 
under  steam  alone,     livening — the  same. 

This  evening  a  l^i  laxon.  of  (ieneva,  N.  Y.,  by 
special  request  of  tlic  captain  and  officers  of  the 
ship,  delivered  a  lecture  in  the  cabin  on  the  "Im- 
mortality ot  lilt  Soul."  The  subject 'was  well 
handled  by  hii  1,  but  it  was  too  deep  for  the  cra- 
niiims  of  ord  nary  persons.  The  doctor  is  on 
his  way  to  Paris  and  other  cities  of  the 
Old  World  to  gather  more  information  and  to 
dive  further  into  metaphysics.  He  is  no  doubt 
an   exceedingly  talented    man,   and   has,   I    am 


e  beneiii. 


*  Doing  but  little  good. 


^» 


o'er   tin-  Allantic. 


informed,  written  and  published  some  veiy 
excellent  works  rch-.ting  to  the  medical  profes- 
sion. II  p.  M — iH'iuitiful  twilisfht,  most  of  the 
passenc;ers  on  deck. 

2\st. — A  fine  but  lijrlit  breeze,  and  from  a  point 
which  enables  us  to  carry  fore  and  aft  sails. 
The  captain  expects  to  make  Torry  Island  (forty 
miles  from  Moville)  to-morrow  morning  from  6 
to  7  o'clock,  or  some  point  on  tiie  west  coast  of 
Ireland  earlier.  Lots  of  Irish  coast  sea  gulls 
hover  around  the  ship  now,  a  sure  indication 
that  we  are  ncuring  land.  Afternoon — cloudy, 
witli  appearance  of  rain.  Evening — beautiful 
twilight.  Capt.  Munro  was  presented  this  evening 
after  divine  service,  by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Kennedy 
with  the  written  testimonial  signed  by  the  cabin 
and  second  cabin  passengers,  expressive  of  the 
feeling  they  entertain  for  him  and  his  officers. 
The  presentation  speech  was  made  by  Mr.  Ken- 
nedy and  replied  to  in  a  few  happy  remarks  by  the 
captain,  on  behalf  of  himself  and  officers.  Res- 
olutions were  then  made  that  copies  of  the  testi- 
monial be  published  in  Glasgow,  Londonderry 
and  New  York  newspapers. 

22//.— Early  morning,  a  pleasant  breeze  from 
the  same  quarter.  Land  was  seen  at  5  a.  m,  on 
our  starboard  bow  (the  western  coast  of  Ireland); 
at  6  A.  M.  sighted  the  island  of  Torry;  at  1:30 
passed  closely  to  the  R.  M.  S.  S.  St.  Atufrew,  of  the 
Montreal  line,  outward  bound,  the  passengers  of 
which  cheered  us  lustily  as  we  passed  by.  3  p.  m. 


r? 


itlantic. 

published  some  very 
to  the  medical  profes- 
Hvilisfiit.   most    of  the 

reeze,  and  from  a  point 
y  fore  and  aft  sails, 
ike  Torry  Island  (forty 
irrow  morning  from  6 
It  on  the  west  coast  of 
Irish  coast  sea  gulls 
o\v,  a  sure  indication 
.  Afternoon — cloudv. 
Evening — beautiful 
\  presented  this  evening 
!ie  Rev.  Mr.  Kennedy* 
al  signed  by  the  cabin 
fers,  expressive  of  the 
him  and  his  officers, 
•as  made  by  Mr.  Ken- 
!  happy  remarks  by  the 
ielf  and  officers.  Res- 
(lat  copies  of  the  testi- 
Tlasgow,  Londonderry 

pleasant  breeze  from 
n-as  seen  at  5  a.  m,  on 
item  coast  of  Ireland); 
iud  of  Torry;  at  1:30 
S.  S.  St.  Amirew,  of  the 
und,  the  passengers  of 
i  we  passed  by.  3  p.  m. 


0\-i-  the  Atiantic. 


.19 


Saw  the  steamship  Britaiiia,  of  this  line,  outward 
bound,  but  too  far  to  signal  her.  At  3:30  the 
pilot  came  on  board,  and  we  soon  gf)t  off  the 
village  of  Moville,  where  the  steam  tug  came 
alongside  and  took  off  all  those  going  to  Lon- 
donderry. We  .soon  cast  off  from  the  big  ship* 
amid  the  cheers  and  waving  of  handkerchiefs  by 
those  we  left  behind  to  proceed  further,  and  then 
steamed  up  Lough  Foyle  against  wind  and  tide ; 
at  6  p.  M.  we  arrived  alongside  the  quay  in  Ber- 
ry, and  were  soon  besieged  Avith  custom-house 
officers  and  porters,  the  one  eager  to  examine 
our  trunks,  and  the  others  fighting  and  scramb- 
ling among  themselves,  as  to  who  should  convey 
them  to  the  hotels  and  elsewhere,  which  was  at 
last  settled,  but  not  without  some  knock-downs 
between  them  and  the  police,  of  whom  there  was 
agood  sprinkling.  After  some  difficulty  I  succeed- 
ed in  getting  ourbaggage  through  the  hands  of  the 
officers,  and  into  the  hands  of  a  decent  kind  of 
Irishman  porter,  who  conveyed  them  on  a  hand- 
cart to  the  Comvienial  Hotel,  one  of  the  best 
hotels  in  the  city  of  Derry,  where  we  were  soon 
comfortably  seated  at  our  evening  repast,  com- 
posed   of   beef   steak,   (fine  and    tender)   fresh 

*  Unfortunately,  this  fine  ship,  in  a  little  more  than  a 
year  afterwards,  was  lost.  She  went  down  when  700  miles 
off  the  Irish  coast,  caused  by  the  breaking  of  her  shaft  in  a 
heavy  sea.  This  was  on  the  25th  of  November,  1868.  and 
among  the  lost  was  Mr.  Reed,  the  first  officer,  and  the 
chief-engineer,  Mr.  MacTammany.  Among  the  saved  were 
("apt.  Munro,  and  the  purser,  Mr.  Brown,  together  with 
some  others  of  the  crew  and  a  few  passengers. 


40 


O'er  the  Atlaittic. 


r 


cockles  (small  shell  fish),  good  bread  and  butter 
ii.^d  delicious  tea,  which  was  served  up  in  good 
style,  amid  nuicli  bowing  and  scraping,  exceed 
ing  polite  attention. 

In  my   next  I  will  give  a  brief  account  of  thi 
ancient  city  and  its  walls. 


I 
laiti 
for 
ab( 
Do 
ing 
isU 
roi 
for 
by 
the 
the 
the 
lun 
of 
the 
fro 
abl 
nai 
hei 
it 


uitic. 

ud  bread  sind  butter 
s  served  up  in  good 
nd  scraping,  exceed 

brief  account  of  thi 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


4« 


LETTER  III. 


IRELAND. 


LoNDONDKRRY.--"  Thcrc  are  not,"  says  KoM's  Ire- 
land, "any  authentic  records  of  Londonderry,  but 
for  many  centuries,  up  to  the  reign  of  Queen  Eliz- 
abeth, its  history  is  almost  ecclesiastical,  its  name 
Doirc,  from  the  old  word  Dru  or  Dreiv,  signify- 
ing an  oak  wood,  has  been  preserved.  The 
island  of  Derry  itself,  and  the  entire  district  sur- 
rounding it,  having  been  covered  with  a  dense 
forest  at  one  time,  in  the  tenth  century,  it  went 
by  the  additional  name  of  Calgaic  or  Calgae/i, 
the  name  of  some  renowned  warrior,  signifying 
the  oak  wood  of  the  warrior;  later  it  went  by 
the  name  of  Doire-choliom-cille,  or  Derry-Co- 
lumb  Kille,  in  honor  of  a  Saint  Columb,-a  native 
of  Tyrconnell  (Donegal);  still  Later  it  went  by 
the  name  of  Termon-doire,  or  Termonderry, 
from  the  Termon  or  free  lands  belonging  to  an 
abbey  erected  in  the  neighborhood.  All  these 
names  gave  place  in  1612  for  the  prefix  London, 
hence  Londonderry,  when  a  charter  was  granted 
it  in  that  name  by  James  the  first.    The  charter 


42 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


li 


was  granted  to  a  company  of  London  nierclm»ts, 
who  advanced  tlie  necessary  means  to  incorpo- 
rate tlie  city.  Tlie  river  up  to  the  city  derived 
its  name  thus :  Febail-mee-Loddin,  or  Fare!  the 
son  of  Loddin  was  drowned  in  the  Lough,  hence 
Lough-farel  or  Foyle,  whicii  means  a  slow  flow- 
ing stream." 

At  this  time  the  town  or  village  consisted  only 
of  one  long  street  of  huts  or  cabins  built  of 
rough  timber  and  nuid,  and  a  cell  or  crypt  plant- 
ed here  by  St.  Columb  was  then  called  Duible- 
regles,  or  Duo-Regies  (black  cell),  and  thence  to 
Black  Abbey  Church,  which  was  situated  in  the 
dense  part  of  the  grove  near  to  the  spot  on 
which  the  present  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral 
stands,  which  in  1164  was  torn  down  and  rebuilt 
much  larger,  and  called  Teampull-mor  (more 
Temple);  the  present  parish  is  called TVot/Z^wwy. 

A  great  portion  of  the  present  inward  city*  was 
built  by  the  citizens  of  London  in  the  reign  of 
James  the  first,  and  fortified  with  extensive  and 
substantial  walls  for  defence,  having  no  less  than 
six  gates  or  main  entrances,  called  respectively 
Bishop's  gate.  Ship  Quay  gate.  New  gate.  Ferry 
gate.  Castle  gate  and  Old  gate. 

There  are  two  bridges  across  the  Foyle,  one  a 
veiy  handsome  structure,  built  of  iron,  and  the 
other  of  wood.  I  make  mention  of  those  more 
particularly,  because  the  latter,  I   was  informed, 

*  That  part  wiihin  the  walls. 


lier 
ere( 
ker 
ritj 
in  1 
tur 
(ilic 
scr' 
mu 
sini 
whi 
catl 
the 
I 
seci 
wh 
wai 
life 
tha 
ver 
dyi 
res( 
shi] 
aft< 
out 
anc 
wai 
the 
wh 


mvM   ^■■t^^smmmmim 


tk. 


O'er  the  AthntU. 


4.1 


London  inercha«ts, 
means  to  incorpo- 

0  the  city  derived 
oddin,  or  Farel  the 

the  Lough,  hence 
neans  a  slow  flow- 

!age  consisted  only 
or  cabins  built  of 
cell  or  crypt  plant- 
[len  called  Duible- 
;ell),  and  thence  to 
,vas  situated  in  the 
ir  to  the  spot  on 
"atholic  Cathedral 

1  down  and  rebuilt 
impull-mor  (more 
5  caW^ATemplemore. 
It  inward  city*  was 
»n  in  the  reign  of 
vith  extensive  and 
laving  no  less  than 
called  respectively 
;,  New  gate,  Ferry 

s  the  Foyle,  one  a 
It  of  iron,  and  the 
ion  of  those  more 
r,  I   WHS  informed. 


was  built  by  an  American  in  1791,  at  an  outlay 
of  nearly  ;^2o,ooo,  or  ^100,000;  there  are  also 
liere  a  Monument  and  two  Catltedrals,  the  former 
erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Rev.  (Jeorge  Wal- 
ker, the  brave  and  undaunted  defender  of  the 
city,  when  assailed  by  James  the  second's  t  lops 
in  1688.  The  cathedrals  are  of  gothic  arciutec- 
ture,  one  Protestant  and  the  other  Roman  Cath- 
olic. I  had  the  pleasure  of  attending  divine 
service  in  the  former  on  Sunday,  and  was  very 
much  pleased  with  the  services,  especially  the 
singing,  and  the  high  tones  of  a  very  fine  organ, 
which  made  the  old  building  vibrate.  In  this 
cathedral  hang  some  of  the  colors  used  during 
the  memorable  siege. 

In  1688  the  city  was  besieged  by  James  the 
second  for  one  hundred  and  five  days,  during 
which  time  the  inhabitants  suffered  much  for  the 
want  of  the  commonest  necessaries  to  sustain 
life;  indeed,  to  such  extremities  were  they  reduced, 
that  they  had  to  partake  of  dogs,  rats  and  other 
vermin  to  satisfy  the  pangs  of  hunger,  thousands 
dying  of  actual  starvation.  They  were  eventually 
rescued  from  this  terrible  state  by  the  arrival  of 
ships  of  war  loaded  with  provisions,  &c.,  which, 
after  some  fighting  with  the  enemy  assembled 
outside  the  walls,  succeeded  in  relieving  them, 
and  the  next  day  after  their  arrival  the  enemy 
was  seen  to  be  in  retreat.  Thus  ended  one  of 
the  most  terrible  seiges  ever  known,  and  during 
which  there   were  killed   and   died   of    hunger 


44 


0\r   the  Atlantic. 


about  icjooo  soId:*^rs  and  citizens.  This  was 
during  the  eventful  war  between  James  the  sec- 
ond (catholic)  on  the  one  side,  and  William, 
Prince  of  Orange  (proiestant),  on  tlie  other. — 
Fath«r-in-law  against  son-in-law.  The  catholic 
army  outside  the  walls  was  under  the  com- 
mand of  Lord  Aiilrim,  while  the  city  we  may 
s-ay  was  under  the  immediate  command  of 
the  Rev.  George  Walker,  wIjo  had  been  elected 
Governor,  to  whose  indomitable  will  and  un- 
flinching courage  is  to  be  attributed  the  success 
of  the  protestant  army. 

There  are  several  fine  buildings  here,  among 
which  are  the  bishop's  palace,  on  which  spot  the 
old  antiquated  abbey  stood  in  the  early  days  of 
Derry;  a  gothic  church  on  James  street;  the 
chapel  of  Ease,  a  plain  and  unassuming  build- 
ing, erected  at  the  expense  of  one  bishop  Barnard, 
in  1768,  the  pastor  of  which  is  paid  from  a  fund 
bequeathed  by  the  bishop  for  that  purpose.  The 
roman  catholic  cathedral  stands  on  the  spot 
where  stood  the  "  Teampull-mor,  Temple-more, 
Great  Church,"  and  has  in  it  a  splendid  new  or- 
gan, and  a  very  fine  altarpiece  by  Haydens.  It 
is  built  very  much  after  the  style  of  the  protestant 
cathedral,  faced  with  Irish  granite  and  decorated 
with  Scotch  free-stone,  and  cost  an  enormous 
amount  of  money,  the  amount'  I  did  not  learn. — 
There  are  also  what  are  called  meeting-houses 
(churches)  here,  four  of  which  are  Presbyterian. 
A  large  infirmary  or  hospital  erected  in  1810.    A 


a 

so 

fui 

to 

foi 

en 

wl 

ap 

CO 

ce 
fo: 

av 
cii 
on 
tai 
th; 
C( 
ha 
sh 
CI 
th 
pa 
w< 


intif. 

citizens.  This  was 
kveen  James  the  sec- 
side,  and  William, 
nt),  on  tlie  other. — 
i-law.  The  catholic 
as  under  the  com- 
ile  the  city  we  may 
idiate  command  of 
ho  had  been  elected 
itable  will  and  un- 
Itributed  the  success 

ildings  here,  among 
B,  on  which  spot  the 
in  the  early  days  of 
J  James  street;   the 

unassuming  build- 
one  bishop  Barnard, 
is  paid  from  a  fund 
■  that  purpose.  The 
stands  on  the  spot 
-mor,  Temple-more, 
t  a  splendid  new  or- 
ece  by  Haydens.  It 
tyle  of  the  protestant 
ranWe  and  decorated 

cost  an  enormous 
nt'  I  did  not  learn. — 
lied  meeting-houses 
z\\  are  Presbyterian. 
1  erected  in  1810.    A 


O'er  the  Atlaiilk. 


45 


I  lunatic  asylum  ol  imposing  appearance.  Gwyn  s 
tharitible  institution,  affording  a  comfortable 
home  for  male  orpiians,  and  erected  from  the 
proceeds  of  a  bequest  made  by  a  Mr.  Gwyn,  linen 
merchant  of  tiie  city.  Tiie  Foyle  and  Magee 
colleges  are  beautiful  buildings,  and  well  wortli 
a  visit.  Tiie  former  was  built  by  public  sub- 
scription, while  the  latter  was  built  from  the 
funds  appropriated  by  a  Mrs.  Magee  of  Dublin 
to  build  a  college  for  the  education  of  clergymen 
for  the  presbyterian  church.  There  are  also  sev- 
eral very  excellent  schools  licre,  foremost  among 
which  is  the  national  model  school,  a  beautiful 
gothic  building,  and  lastly  a  very  fine  building 
appropriated  to  a  library,  newsroom,  chamber  of 
commerce,  &c.  It  is  here  is  located  Mehan's 
celebrated  distillerv,  so  well  known  in  America 
for  its  manufacture  of  the  "crayter"  (whiskey). 

I  will  now,  before  taking  leave  of  Londonderry, 
avail  myself  of  the  opportunity  to  allude  to  a 
circumstance  wiiich  transpired  just  as  we  were 
on  the  eve  of  leaving  for  Belfast,  and  which  de- 
tained us  some  considerable  more  time  in  Derry 
than  we  expected.  It  appears  that  the  British 
Consul  at  New  York  put  some  document  in  the 
hands  of  the  purser  of  the  steamer  just  as  the 
ship  was  leaving  her  df)ck,  addressed  to  the 
Chief  of  Constabulary  at  Lc»ndonderry,  stating 
that  there  was  a  man  and  his  wife  among  the 
passengers  going  to  Derry,  who,  he  was  informed, 
were  Fenian  emis.saries,  having  in  their  posses- 


46 


O'er  the  AtUvitU, 


I 
ft 


■  v%, 

■  B 


•V 


.sioniinpurtnDt  duoumciits  for  delivery  in  Ireland. 
Wiio  the  man  was,  was  not  known  to  any  person 
on  board,  but  on  Monday  morning  about 
break-fast  time,  the  Commercial  hotel,  was 
besieged     with      gentlemen     dressed    in     dark 

J  green  cloth,  equipped  a  la  militaire,  who  gfuurded 
strictly  the  hotel  entrances  and  to  every  room 
therein ;  trunks  were  ordered  to  be  unlocked  and 
emptied  of  their  contents,  and  innumenible  ques- 
tions asked,  which  occupied  quite  a  time,  till  at 
last  a  man  called  Birch  was  inquired  for,  and  on 
his  being  pointed  out  to  the  officer  in  command, 
he  was  immediately  put  under  arrest  and  kept  a 
strict  watch  over  until  everything  he  had  with 
him,  and  about  him  and  his  wife,  had  undergone 
.  a  rigid  search,  and  he  had  rendered  a  good  and 

I  satisfactory  account  of  themselves.  Nothing  was 
found  or  elicited  justifying  their  detention,  so 
they  were  set  at  large,  when  the  captain  of  the 
force  apologised  for  the  inconvenience  and  delay 
caused  us,  remarking,  "  but  such,  gentlemen,  are 
our  duties.  My  orders  are  to  obey  even  if  it 
breaks  masters."  Turning  to  me  and  politely 
taking  my  arm  he  led  me  aside,  addressing  me 

at  the  same  time,  "  your  name  is  W ,  sir,  I 

believe."  "  Yes  sir,"  I  replied.  "  From  the  descrip- 
tion given  me  by  Mr.  Murray,  the  agent  for  the 
'OAnchor  Line,  I  took  you  to  be  the  person.  You 
are  one  of  the  American  local  agents  for  the  line, 
Mr.  Murray  informs  me."  I  replied,  "I  am." 
"  Then  sir,"  said  he,  "  I  will  not  trouble  you  or 


y 

ni 
n 
a 
ii 
e 
o 

V 

o 
t( 

f( 

u 


.  .: . , .„^ifcir  ?* 


\iiitic. 


S 


O'er  the  Athiiifit 


47 


)r  delivery  in  Ireland, 
known  to  any  person 
lay  morning  about 
imercial  hotel,  was 
1  dressed  in  dark 
lUitairr,  who  gfuurded 
j  and  to  every  room 
d  to  be  unlocked  and 
id  innumerable  ques- 
l  qiiite  a  time,  till  at 

inquired  for,  and  on 
;  officer  in  command, 
der  arrest  and  kept  a 
rything  he  had  with 

wife,  had  undergone 
rendered  a  good  and 
iselves.  Nothing  was 
f  their  detention,  so 
n  the  captain  of  the 
invenience  and  delay 

such,  gentlemen,  are 
s  to  obey  even  if  it 

to  me  and  politely 
aside,  addressing  me 


ame  is  W- 


sir,  I 


1.  "From  the descrip- 
ray,  the  agent  for  the 

be  the  person.  You 
al  agents  for  the  line, 

I  replied,  "I  am." 
1  not  trouble  you  or 


your  lady  to  unlock  your  trunks,  and  indeed,  I 
am  of  the  opinion,  now  that  I  liave  searched  this 
man  Birch,  tiiat  there  are  no  Fenians  among  you, 
and  I  can  only  account  for  the  Uritish  consul's 
information,  that  this  man  must  have  had  an 
enemy  who  was  determined  to  persecute  him 
on  his  arrival  in  this  country."*  He  then,  after 
verj'  politely  wishing  us  good  bye  i  nd  good  speed, 
ordered  his  men  from  off  the  premises,  and  then 
took  his  leave,  much  to  the  satisfaction  of  us  all, 
who  began  to  pack  up,  lock  up  and  strap  down 
for  our  journey  onwards,  we  taking  our  depart- 
ure for  Belfast  direct. 

•  Tills  proved  to  be  the  case,  for,  on  his  arrival  home,  he 
learned  thai  a  clerk  who  had  been  in  his  employ,  and  with 
whom  he  had  quarrelled,  had  done  it  for  revenge. 


48 


O'er  the  Alhiitk. 


LETTER  IV. 

IKEI.ANU,   CONTINt'EU. 

Bf.i.kast. — We  arrived  here  after  passing 
tiirongli  Coleraine,  BaUyinoney,  Antrim,  Car- 
rickfergus  and  other  intermediate  places,  a  most 
beautiful  country,  Avell  may  it  be  called  the 
"  Emerald  Isle,"  for  a  more  delightful  green  than 
that  of  the  fields  sown  with  Hax,  wiieat,  &c.,  never 
was  seen.  Here  and  there  we  saw  the  peasantry 
at  work,  mowing  hay,  and  others  cutting  turf 
and  piling  it  up  inneat  piles  to  dry,  large  quan- 
tities of  which  is  used  for  fuel  throughout  the 
country ;  and  which  kindles  equal  if  not  better 
than  coal. 

Belfast  has  a  population  of  130,000.  "  This 
great  and  astonishing  city,"  writes  Kohl,  "with 
all  its  houses  and  inhabitants,  stands  upon  the 
territory  of  one  proprietor,  the  Marquis  of 
Donegal,  to  whom  the  whole  town  belongs  and 
to  whom  every  citizen  pays  tribute."  I  informed 
mysflf  that  this  nobleman's  income  from  the 
town  alone  amounts  to  ^^300,000  per  annum,  or 
$1,500,000.     The  whole  of  this  vast  property  is 


iiiilic. 


IV. 


riNUEl). 


here  after  passing 
loney,  Antrim,  Car- 
ed iate  places,  a  most 
y  it  be  called  the 
delightful  green  than 
lax,  wiieat,  &c.,  never 
ve  saw  the  peasantry 

others  cutting  turf 
s  to  dry,  large  quan- 
fuel  throughout  the 
:s  equal  if  not  better 

of  130,000.  "  This 
"  writes  Kohl,  "  with 
Its,  stands  upon  the 
>r,  the  Marquis  of 
lie  town  belongs  and 
iribute."  I  informed 
's  income  from  the 
00,000  per  annum,  or 
this  vast  property  is 


O'fi-  the  Athnth. 


-♦9 


situated  on  the  nver    Lagan,  which   flows  into 
Uelfast  Lough.     The  harbor,  which  is  very  fine, 
derived  its  name  from  the   Irish   Beal-nafarsad, 
which  signifies  the  "  mouth  of  the  ford."  where- 
on the  town  is  situated.     The  city  is  celebrated 
for  its  manufacture  of  linen  and  poplin,  which 
gives  employment  to  about  60,000  persons  (male 
and  female.)    The  first  Bible  (i.  e.  in  all  Ireland), 
was  printed  here  and  published  in  1794.     It  was 
here  the  oldest  Irish  periodical,  the  Weekly  Mag- 
azine, was  originally  published,  (see  Kohl's  Ire- 
land), and  at  present  the  following  newspapers 
are  published  here :   Belfast  Nexvs  Letter,  estab- 
lished 1737,  and  issued  now  daily  ;  Morning  News, 
Banner  of  Ulster,  and  the   Ulster  Obsener,  all  tri- 
weekl"  papers.     There  are  ninnerous  and  very 
fine  bi  lldings  in    Belfast,  among   which  I   will 
name  the  Museum,  in  College  Square,  in  which 
there  is  a  very  fine  collection  of  Irish  antiqui- 
ties.    Linen   Hall,  Donegal   Square,  erected    in 
1715,  at  a  cost  of  ;^io,ooo,  where  all  the  business 
appertaining    to    the   linen   trade   is  managed. 
Ulster  Hall,  on  Bedford  street,  used  for  public 
meetings  and  concerts,  and  will  seat  3,000  per- 
sons.    In  this  hall  is  a  very  powerfiU  and  excel- 
lent organ,  and   the  front  of  the  building   is 
adorned  with  six  very  massive  columns,  which 
gives  it  a  very  imposing  appearance.     Then  there 
are  the  Music  Hall,  Model  School,  the  Govern- 
ment School  of  Design,  i>nd  a  great  number  of 
churches,    chapels,    &c.     The    Queen's    bridge, 


s« 


O'tr  the  Allantit. 


11 


which  now  occupies  the  place  of  the  great  old 
bridge,  built  in  1683,  consisting  then  of  twenty- 
one  arches,  very  much  damaged  by  Schombcrg's 
cannon  passing  over  it,  is  now  an  elegant  struc- 
ture, with  its  five  arches  of  great  length  instead 
of  the  old  twenty-one. 

The  botanical  garden  we  were  informed  is  well 
worthy  of  a  visit  from  the  stranger,  especially 
to  those  who  arc  fond  of  flowers,  plants,  &c.,  of 
which  there  is  a  very  elegant  and  carefully 
selected  assortment. 

We  will  now  take  leave  of  Belfast  and  pass 
through  Lisburn,  Lurgan,  Armagh,  Portadown, 
along  the  granite  Mourne  mountains,  getting  a 
glimpse  of  Rosstrevor,  Warren  point  and  Newry 
on  our  way  to — 

DuNDALK. — This  is  truly  an  ancient  town,  and 
was  at  one  time  fortified ;  the  ruins  of  the  walls 
still  remain.  Dundalk  can  boast  of  being  the  last 
place  where  a  monarch  was  crowned  in  Ireland. 
This  was  Robert  Bruce,  of  Scotland,  who,  at  the 
Irish  request,  came  over  after  the  battle  of  Ban- 
nock-burn. He  landed  with  a  large  army  and 
took  Dundalk  by  storm,  "and  resided  here  in 
great  splendor  until  1318,"  (Kohl's  his.  I.)  when 
it  was  retaken  after  a  dreadful  battle,  or  series  of 
battles  by  the  English,  and  Bruce  killed. 

There  are  some  distilleries,  breweries  and  flour 
mills  located  here,  and  the  principal  trade  is  done 
with  Liverpool.  The  public  buildings  are  a  fine 
old  Parish  church,  a  handsome  Roman  Catholic 


faiitic. 


O'er  Ihf  Atlmtk. 


5« 


lace  of  the  great  old 
iting  then  of  twenty- 
[iged  by  Schombcrg's 
low  an  elegant  struc- 
great  length  instead 

were  informed  {swell 
;  stranger,  especially 
lowers,  plants,  &c.,  of 
legant  and  carefully 

of  Belfast  and  pass 
Armagh,  Portadown, 
mountains,  getting  a 
Ten  point  and  Newry 

an  ancient  town,  and 
he  ruins  of  the  walls 
bf)ast  of  being  the  last 

crowned  in  Ireland. 
Scotland,  who,  at  the 
:r  the  battle  of  Ban- 
th  a  large  army  and 
and  resided  here  in 

(Kohl's  his.  I.)  when 
ful  battle,  or  series  of 
Bruce  killed, 
s,  breweries  and  flour 
irincipal  trade  is  done 
:  buildings  are  a  fine 
ome  Roman  Catholic 


ell  I.  '  -.bylerian  and  other  incclinfj^  lioiibus, 
Nationui  aank,  &c.  The  seat  of  Lord  Rodcn  is 
open  to  the  curious,  the  mansion  is  a  very  fine 
turrettcd  building  and  the  grounds  are  hoaiitifully 
laid  out.  Having  no  time  to  spare  to  visit  the 
interior  I  have  no  further  description  to  give  of 
this  fine  mansion. 

Leaving  Dundalk  we  proceeded  dii  oiu*  way, 
passing  by  Tara,  the  niost  interesting^  spot  in  all 
Ireland.  "  Here  the  magnificent  palace  of  Kincf 
Cormac  and  his  brave  champions  sKjod.  The 
place  is  called  Tcnar  from  Teagh-mor,  the  Great 
House,  or  Tea^h-mor-raj^h,  the  great  house  of  the 
King."  (K.  H,  I.)  The  poet  Moore  sings  uf 
'•  Tara's  Hall': 

"  The  harp  that  once  through  Tara's  lialls 

The  soul  of  music  $hcd, 
Now  h-ings  as  mute  on  Tar.i's  walls, 

As  if  that  soul  were  fled." 

On  we  sped  pass  Dangan  castle  the  birth  place 
of  the  hero  of  Waterloo  (the  late  Duke  of  Wel- 
lington) and  Duleck  (Damhleac)  i.  e.  the  stone 
house,  where  the  first  stone  church  in  Ireland 
was  built  by  i.  P.itrick  in  the  fifth  century. 
Leaving  behind  us  Slane  and  Nen-  Grande,  we 
arrive  in — 

Droohkda.  This  ancient  lown  is  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  Boyne,  so  celebrated  in 
Irish  history,  coupled  with  t;ie  names  of  James 
the  second,  and  William,  Prince  of  Orange.  It 
has  a  population  of  probably  20,000  inhabitants, 


Si'  ■ 


r 


5  = 


O'er  thf  Atlantic. 


(me-half  of  which  are  Roman  Catholics,  and 
lies  in  the  counties  of  Meath  and  Louth.  The 
town  was  at  one  time  surrounded  by  a  wall, 
portions  of  which  still  remain,  as  also  two  of 
tiie  gateways,  fine  old  ruins,  Drogheda  is 
directly  opposite  Liverpool,  distance  135  miles, 
and  has  a  very  good  harbor.  In  the  days  of 
the  English  Commonwealth,  Cromwell  lead  an 
army  in  person  against  this  town  and  defeated 
the  garrison.  Two  thousand  persons  under 
arms  were  by  his  orders  put  to  the  sword, 
including  the  Governor,  Sir  Authur  Astan — a 
blot  in  the  life  of  Cromwell  never  to  be  erased. 
On  the  north  side  of  the  river  stands  an  Obelisk, 
erected  on  the  battle  field  of  the  Boyne,  which  took 
place  on  the  first  of  July,  1690,  between  the 
Prince  of  Orange  and  his  father-in-law,  James 
the  second,  when  the  latter  was  defeated  and 
obliged  to  fly  as  fast  as  horse  could  carry  him  to 
a  seaport  down  the  coast,  where  on  his  arrival  at 
a  castle  he  accosted  the  lady  who  received  him, 
with  '"  Madam,  your  Irishmen  run  like  deer." 
"So  I  would  suppose,  from  the  appearance  of 
your  Majesty,  who  it  appears  has  run  much 
faster."  The  Obelisk  marks  the  spot  where 
William  commenced  the  attack,  as  also  where 
Schomberg,  the  military  commander  of  Ireland, 
was  killed. 

We  will  now  bid  adieu  to  Drogheda, 
the  scene  of  so  much  merciless  slaughter  and 
cruelty,  and  push  on  through  the  quaint  and  old 


r 


mtic. 

man  Catholics,  and 
th  and  Louth.  The 
rrounded  by  a  wall, 
lain,  as  also  two  of 
lins,  Drogheda  is 
,  distance  135  miles, 
»or.  In  the  days  of 
J,  Cromwell  lead  an 
>  town  and  defeated 
sand  persons  under 
put  to  the  sword, 
ir  Authur  Astan — a 
1  never  to  be  erased. 
er  stands  an  Obelisk, 
:he  Boyne,  which  took 
r,  1690,  between  the 
father-in-law,  James 
tv  was  defeated  and 
se  could  carry  him  to 
here  on  his  arrival  at 
ly  who  received  him, 
tien  run  like  deer." 
tn  the  appearance  of 
)ears  has  run  much 
irks  the  spot  where 
attack,  as  also  where 
mmander  of  Ireland, 

dieu  to  Drogheda, 
ciless  slaughter  and 
rh  the  quaint  and  old 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


53 


fashioned  place,  Balbriggan,  so  celebrated  for  it« 
manufacture  of  stockings,  socks,  &c.,  remarkable 
for  their  fineness  and  durability.  One  of  its 
factories  has  been  in  existence  since  1797, 
and  employs  200  hands.  On  we  go  at  a  furious 
rate  through  Swords  to  the  village  of  Malahidc, 
where  we  get  a  view,  while  the  iron  horse 
draws  breath,  of  the  fine  old  castle,  the  residence 
of  Lord  Talbot  de  Malahide,  erected  principally 
during  the  reign  of  Henry  second,  and  also  an 
abbey  of  very  ancient  date.  Hark  !  The  guard's 
shrill  whistle  is  heard  again,  a  signal  for  the 
train  to  move  on,  and  in  a  few  minutes  we  are  in 
the  great  metropolis  of  Ireland,  i.  e.  the  railway 
station,  amid  guards  and  porters  lustily  calling 
out,  "  Dublin  !  Dublin  !  !  Dublin  !  !  !"  several 
times  over,  and  the  noise  of  luggage  cars 
coursing  »»p  and  down  the  platforms.   More  anon. 


\\ 


54 


O'er  the  Atlaniie. 


l!     r 


i^ 


LETTER  V. 

IRELAND,  CONTINUEn. 

Dublin. — Here  we  arrived  late  at  night  and 
were  quickly  driven  in  a  cab  to  \\\t  Angel  Hotel, 
on  Inn's  ^uay,  where  we  were  recommended  to 
go  by  a  gentleman  wliose  acquaintance  we  made 
on  board  the  train  from  Newry.  We  found  it  not 
exactly  ',vhat  we  would  liiie,  but  when  at  breakfast 
the  next  morning,  in  the  coffee  room,  we  had  the 
pleasure  of  meeting  and  making  the  acquaint- 
ance of  a  Mr.  Siiuse  and  his  daughter,  from 
Troy,  N.  Y.,  who,  like  ourselves,  were'*afther 
taking  a  look  at  ould  Ireland."  He  was  a  native 
of  the  Green  Isle,  but  had  been  absent  for  many 
years,  and  had  recently  been  on  a  visit  to  his  aged 
mother  in  the  south.  They  had  just  come  from 
the  lakes  of  Killarncy,  and  were  on  their  way 
across  the  channel  to  visit  Paris.  We  passed  a 
very  pleasant  time  together,  for  our  tastes  and 
ideas  were  similar.*  ,, 

•  I  have  had  the  pleasure  of  several  interviews  with  Mr. 
S.  since,  and  also  of  making  the  acquaintance  of  the  other 
members  of  his  lamilv. 


W 
H 

m 

5 
v« 

a 
ai 
ca 
al 

V 
ni 

di 

C5 

ai 

a] 
u 
s< 
T 
a 
h 
e 
b 
u 


rj 
if.' 

I 


c/V. 


;uEn. 

late  at  night  and 
to  the  Atigel  Hotels 
e  recommended  to 
laintance  we  made 

We  found  it  not 
t  when  at  breakfast 
J  room,  we  had  the 
ing  the  acquaint- 
is  daughter,  from 
Ives,  were  "  afther 

He  was  a  native 
n  absent  for  many 
\  a  visit  to  his  aged 
ad  just  come  from 
vcre  on  their  way 
iris.  We  passed  a 
"or  oiu-  tastes  and 


tl  interviews  with  Mr. 
iiaintance  of  the  other 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


55 


I      The  city  can  be  reached  in  eleven  hours  from 
I  London  via  Holyhead   in   North   Wales,  from 
I  which  point  the  Royal  mail  steamers  leave  thrice 
daily  for  Kingston,  thence  on  here  by  train,  an 
expeditious  route,  which  is  quite  a  convenience  to 
the  traveling  public.     I  will  now  proceed  to  give 
you  a  brisf  account  of  the  metropolis  of  Ireland. 
It  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river  LiflFey, 
which  river  runs  through  the  centre  of  the  city. 
Here  much  of  the  celebrated  Irish  poplins  are 
manufactured,  which  can  be  purchased  at  from 
5  to  6s.  per  yard  ($1.50  in  gold),  and  here  are 
very  many  fine  buildings,  public  and  commercial, 
a  ♦e'"  of  which  we  visited,  and  among  which,  first 
ai'l  ^    »niost,  I  will  name  the  government  house, 
cast        .    chapel,  (the  Lord  Lieutenant's  place  of 
abc   ■  ;     We  were,  in   return  for  a  small  fee, 
politely  shown  through  the  various  state  apart- 
ments, by  the  lady   and  gentleman  in  charge 
during  his  Excellency's  absence  in  London.  The 
castle  itself  is  not  of  a  very  imposing  appear- 
ance.    It  was  built  for  the  defense  of  the  peace- 
able   inhabitants    against    the    aggressions     of 
unruly    neighbors,  for    nothing    but    strength 
seems    to  be    their    idea    in    its    construction. 
There  are  two  towers,  one  called  the  Bedford 
and  the  ortier  the  Birmingham  ;  no  access  can  be 
had  to  either  of  those,  for  they  are  used  as  gov- 
ernment archives.      The    Viceregal  chapel,  of 
beautiful  external  and  internal  appearance,  is 
used  by  the  Lord  Lieutenant  and  his  household. 


5^ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


r 


\  ., 


%\' 


fe'- 


Around  the  gallery,  are  carved  the  arms  of  the 
various  Lord  Lieutenants  from  1173  to  1814, 
while  those  of  later  date  are  on  the  painted  win- 
dows. All  the  se,its,  desks,  etc.,  are  of  richly 
carved  oak,  and  over  the  altar  window,  which 
represents  the  passion,  beautifully  blended  in 
colors,  are  elegant  figures  of  Faith,  Hope  and 
Charity.  We  pass  from  this  beautiful  little  place 
of  worship,  and  enter  into  the  Viceregal  apart- 
ments. The  first  room  is  the  Presence  Chamber, 
containing  the  throne  of  the  Representative  of 
Royalty,  which  we  had  the  honor  of  seating 
ourselves  on,  a  circumstance,  rest  assured,  that 
did  not  improve  our  condition  religiously, 
morally  or  politically.  This  room  is  richly  fur- 
nished with  hangings  embroidered  with  gold. 
The  next  room  we  were  taken  into  was  the 
Council  Chamber,  which  contains  rare  and  beau- 
tiful portraits  in  oil,  of  Viceroys,  commencing 
with  the  Marquis  Corn wal lis,  tlie  same  Corn- 
wallis  who  had  the  honor  of  surrendering  his 
sword,  many  years  ago,  to  the  "  Father  of  his 
country," — the  immortal  Washington,  after  which, 
in  1800,  he  was  made  Viceroy  of  Ireland, 
with  the  title  of  Marquis.  From  this  room  we 
passed  into  the  private  drawing  room,  gorgeously 
furnished,  and  lastly  into  St.  Patrick's  hall,  used 
occasionally  as  a  ball  room.  On  the  ceiling  is  a 
large  painting  of  George  III,  supported  by 
justice  and  liberty,  St.  Patrick  poaching  to  the 
native  Irish,  and  the  submission  of  the   Irish 


^~'yv 


\intic, 

ved  the  arms  of  the 
from  1 1 73  to  1814, 
;  on  the  painted  win- 
s,  etc.,  are  of  richly 
altar  window,  which 
dutifully  blended  in 
of  Faith,  Hope  and 
•  beautiful  little  place 
the  Viceregal  apart- 
ic  Presence  Chamber, 
lie  Representative  of 
le  honor  of  seating 
:e,  rest  assured,  that 
>ndition  religiously, 
s  room  is  richly  fur- 
Toidered  with  gold, 
taken  into  was  the 
ntains  rare  and  beau- 
iccroys,  commencing 
ill  is,  tlie  same  Corn- 
of  surrendering  his 
the  "  Father  of  his 
uhington,  after  which, 
I'iceroy  of  Ireland, 
From  this  room  we 
ng  room,  gorgeously- 
.  Patrick's  hall,  used 
On  the  ceiling  is  a 
I  III,  supported  by 
ick  preaching  to  the 
iiission  of  the  Irish 


O'er  the  AtlantU. 


S? 


chiefs  to  Henry  II,  one  of  whom  is  in  the  act  of 
delivering  tlic  keys  of  the  fortress  to   Henry. 
After  going    through   some  utlier  apartments, 
richly   furnished,  but  of  no  note,  we  took   our 
leave,  and  drove  to  see  the  exterior  of  St.  Pat- 
rick's cathedral.*   This  venerable  pile  is  situated 
on  the  spot  where  St.  Patrick  had  a  well  to  bap- 
tize his  converts,  and  there  built  a  place   of 
worship,   which  stood    in    890.       The    present 
cathedral  was  partly  erected  in  1190,  for  a  por- 
tion  of  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1362,  after 
which   much  was  added  to   it   by    Archbishop 
Minot   in    1370;    the  present   steeple  is  of  this 
date.     Mr.   (iuiness,   the  great  Dublin  brewer, 
generously  expended,  since  i860,  upon  this  vener- 
able building,  upwards  of  ;^ioo,ooo,  or  $500,000  ; 
thus  it  has  been  nearly  restored  to  its  original 
beauty.     Taking  our  departure  from   here  we 
w^ent  to    the  general   post  office  on   Sackvillc 
street,  and  nearly  opposite  the  Nelson   monu- 
ment.    The  post  office  is  a  beautiful  building, 
surmounted  by  figures  of  Hibernia,  Mercy  and 
Fidelity.      The  Nelson   monument   is  a  fluted 
column  of  121  feet  high,  and  cost  $40,000,  raised 
among  Irishmen  who  admired  the  naval  genius 
of  the  hero  of  so  many  battles,  and  who  ended  his 
brilliant  career   with    that  of  Trafalgar.      Wo 
afterwards   visited    the   custom   house,  Trinity 
college  and  other  public  buildings  of  imposing 
and  very  fine  architecture. 

•  It  was  not  open  to  visitors  at  that  time. 


S8 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


Next  day  we  drove  to  Phoenix  park  in  a  jaunt- 
ing car,  whereon  you  are  seated  bacit  to  back,  over 
the  wheels,  a  peculiar  vehicle  to  Ireland  alone. 
There  we  witnessed  a  sham  fight,  and  a  review  of 
the  troops  stationed  here,  a  very  magnificent  sight. 
There  were  upwards  of  3,000  men  underarms,  the 
music  of  the  bands  was  very  fine,  and  the  move- 
ments of  both  men  and  horses  remarkably  pre- 
cise. Indeed,  they  seemed  to  move  like  machine- 
ry, and  a  delightful  place  is  Phoenix  park.  We 
drove  from  there  to  the  Zoological  gardens  to  sec 
the  wild  beasts,  thence  to  Glasnevin  cemetery, 
where  there  are  monuments  equal  to  any  I  have 
seen  in  Greenwood,  New  York.  On  our  arrival 
we  were  not  long  before  our  attention  was 
attracted  to  the  spot  ivhere  rest  the  remains  of 
the  great  Daniel  O'Connell.  They  but  tempor- 
arily rest  where  they  are  at  present,  which  is  a 
vault  with  an  iron  gateway ;  the  massive  sarco- 
phagus rests  on  stands,  with  the  large  wreath  of 
evergreens  and  flowers  used  at  the  funeral  laying 
on  top,  and  still  looking  remarkably  fresh  and 
green.  The  name  "  O'Connell "  is  rudely  written 
on  a  board  over  the  doorway.  When  surveying 
the  place  I  could  not  avoid  remarking  to  niy  com- 
panions that  "  Here,  indeed,  lies  Ireland's  great 
agitator,  whose  memory  will  remain  in  the  hearts 
of  his  countrymen  as  green  as  the  fields  of  their 
native  Isle."  Soon  the  remains  will  be  removed  to 
their  last  resting  place,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction, over  which  is  a  granite  round  tower 


"/(•. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


59 


ix  park  in  a  Jaunl- 
back  tu  back,  over 
;  to  Ireland  alone, 
ht,  and  a  review  of 
'  magnificent  sight, 
en  underarms,  the 
ine,  and  the  move- 
s  remarkably  pre- 
jove  like  machine- 
'hoenix  park.  We 
:ical  gardens  to  sec 
asnevin  cemetery, 
qual  to  any  I  have 
I.  On  our  arrival 
>ur  attention  was 
ist  the  remains  of 
They  but  tempor- 
jresent,  which  is  a 
le  massive  sarco- 
le  large  wreath  of 
the  funeral  laying 
arkably  fresh  and 
'  is  rudely  written 
When  surveying 
irking  to  niy  com- 
es Ireland's  great 
main  in  the  hearts 
the  fields  of  their 
will  be  removed  to 
in  course  of  con- 
inite  round  tower 


160  feet  high,  erected  in  the  old  tower  style  (i.  e. 
the  old  Irish  round  tower.)     It  is  anything  but 
beautiful,  but  can  be  seen  for  miles  away  as 
marking:  the  spo<     ''iCr"        ts  all  that  was  ever 
mortal  of  the  grea  agitata        The  space  around 
the  tower  is  surrounded  wii^i  -i  deep  moat,  and  in 
the  vault,  opening  into  this  moat,  are  the  remains 
of  Steele,  O'Connell's  staunch  friend.      Above 
the  door  is  written  "  Honest  Tom  Steele."    We 
passed  away    from   here,  and  next  visited  the 
tomb  of  Curran  and  other  past  celebrities,  who 
have  gone  to  that  distant  home  never  to  return 
among  us  again.     Leaving  here,  we  proceeded  to 
the  city,  passing  on    our    way    the  celebrated 
Mount    Joy    prison,    wherein  iwere    incarce- 
rated   the    Fenian    chiefs,    McCafferty,    Burke, 
O'Brien*  and  others  of  the  brotherhood.     I  cer- 
tainly felt  very  much  for  those  unfortunates, 
doomed  as  they  are  to  pass  the  remainder  of  their 
days  within  prison  walls,  subject  to  the  coarse  ad- 
dress and  comniand  of  their  keepers.     McCafferty 
I  had  seen  in  New  York,  when  making  his  speech 
as  special  emoy  from  Stephens,  before  a  Jones' 
Wood  audience.     Poor  fellow,  he  was  then  full 
of  hope,  and  his  proud  and  defiant  eye  glistened 
when  recounting,  as  he  affirmed,  his  country's 
wrongs. 

After  visiting  St.  Stephen's  Green,  where  there 
are  fine  statutes  of  George  II.  and  of  the  Eari  of 

•  O'Brien  has  been  released  on  certain  conditions,  and  1 
have  since  made  his  acquaintance  at  Troy,  N.  Y, 


6o 


O'fr  the  AtlanHi. 


4- 

m 

-MM 

'I 


Eglintun,  once  Viceroy  of  Ireland,  the  bank  u  t 
Ireland,  and  other  places  of  note,  we  prepared  to 
leave  the  Emerald  Isle  to  cross  over  to  Wales. 
But  a  tew  remarks  about  Ireland  and  its  people 
will  not  be  inappropriate  before  taking  my  leave 
of  their  country. 

Irkland,  no  doubt,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
fertile  countries  in  the  world,  and  abounds  with 
precious  minerals  which,  with  its  tla.x,  linen  and 
<*ther  trade,  is  sufficient  to  supply  thrice  the  labor- 
ing community  thereat  present:  but  while  the 
rich  Irish  nobility  or  property  holders  will  persist 
in  going  abroad  to  spend  that  which  they  should 
spend  among  , their  tenantry  and  in  the  country 
generally,  but  poor  hopes  remain  for  Ireland ; 
for  if  poverty,  of  wiiich  I  must  acknowledge  I 
saw  no  more  there  than  I  have  elsewhere,*  is  to  be 
attributed  to  any  cause  whatever,  it  is  decidedly 
to  the  apathy  of  tlie  rich  and  prodigal  Irish  land 
owners,  who  suck  the  life  blood  out  of  their 
tenantry  by  way  of  high  rents,  which  money 
they  lavish  in  England  and  on  the  continent  of 
Europe.  Sucli  men — men  of  no  enterprise,  who 
live  for  themselves  alone,  could  do  more,  if  they 
so  willed  it,for  the  pecuniary,  intellectual  and  mor- 
al prosperity  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  soil  from 
which  they  gather  the  means  to  live  in  splendor 
and  idleness,  and  in  return  f<)r  which  they  would 
have  the  gratitude,  love  and  respect  of  a  gener- 
ous and  warm-hearted  people. 


•  The  greatest  poverty  exists  in  the  Southern  provinces. 


'antii-. 

Ireland,  the  bank  ut 

note,  we  prepared  to 

cross  over  to  Wales. 

eland  and  its  people 

;lore  taking  my  leave 

of  the  finest  and  most 
id,  and  abounds  with 
ith  its  Hax,  linen  and 
ipply  thrice  the  labor- 
esent :  but  while  the 
ty  holders  will  persist 
lat  which  they  should 
•y  and  in  the  country 

remain  for  Ireland ; 

must  acknowledge  I 
ve  elsewhere,*  is  to  be 
latever,  it  is  decidedly 
id  prodigal  Irish  land 
e  blood  out  of  their 

rents,  which  money 
rl  on  the  continent  of 
of  no  enterprise,  who 
ould  do  more,  if  they 
',  intellectual  and  mor- 
tants  of  the  soil  from 
uis  to  live  in  splendor 

f<»r  which  they  would 
d  respect  of  a  gener- 
jle. 

1  the  Southern  provinces. 


Off  the  Allatitif.  fi> 

Taking  the  train  one  fine  morning  early  to 
Kingston,  by  the  way  a  very  pretty  place,  where 
we  got  on  board  a  Royal  mail  steamer  to  break- 
fast, we  were  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  safely 
landed  on  the  other  side  of  the  Irish  channel— 
(North  Wales). 


6a 


O'n   Ihe  AtlantU: 


r 


LETTER  VI. 


WALES. 


HoLVHKAn. — Here  we  staid  only  for  a  short 
time  so  as  to  view  the  pier  or  breakwater  in 
course  of  erection  and  nearly  complete,  which  is 
i,ooo  feet  long  with  a  light  house  on  the  extreme 
end.  This  vast  piece  of  masonry  is  to  protect 
and  shelter  vessels  while  at  anchor  from  the 
fury  of  wind  and  sea.  Three  grovernment 
steamers  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  mails  and 
passengers  to  and  from  Ireland  leave  here  daily 
for  Kingston.  The  immense  sum  of  ^^700,000 
has  been  expended  by  the  British  government  in 
constructing  and  improving  the  harbor.  The 
Welsh  name  of  the  town  is  Caer  Gybi,  i.  e.  the 
Fort  of  Cyb',  the  latter  word  being  the  name  of 
a  certain  saint  who  died  here,  the  old  church  is 
dedicated  to  that  patron  saint.  On  a  rock  three 
miles  away  is  a  light  house,  called  the  South 
Stack.  The  light  is  produced  from  twenty-one 
lamps,  with  powerful  reflectors,  and  is  212  feet 
above  low  water  mark.  This  light  house  is 
erected  on  a  rock  separated  from  the  main  land 


»//V. 


d'et  the-  Atlantic. 


<3 


'1. 


d  only  for  a  short 
or  breakwater  in 
complete,  which  is 
)use  on  the  extreme 
sonry  is  to  protect 
t  anchor  from  the 
rhree  g^overnment 
carrying  mails  and 
id  leave  here  daily 
!  sum  of  ;^7oo,ooo 
itish  government  in 
the  harbor.  The 
Caer  Gybi,  i.  e.  the 
I  being  the  name  of 
;,  the  old  church  is 
On  a  rock  three 
;,  called  the  South 
d  from  twenty-one 
3rs,  and  is  212  feet 
(lis  light  house  is 
"rom  the  main  land 


by  a  narrow  channel,  over  which  is  a  splendid 
iron  suspension  bridge,  and  the  pathway  from 
the  road  above  to  the  brid)3;e  is  composed  of  365 
steps,  one  for  every  day  in  the  year.  Pen-Caer- 
(rybi,  or  Holyhi'tid  mountain,  is  upward  of  700 
feet  high,  from  the  top  of  which  I  was  informed, 
a  splendid  view  of  the  town  and  neighborhood 
can  be  obtained;  but  I  had  not  the  remotest 
idea  of  carrying  upwards  of  two  hundred 
pounds  of  flesh  to  such  height.  Before  leaving 
we  obtained  a  good  view  of  an  obelisk,  erected 
in  the  distance  to  the  memory  of  a  Captain  in 
command  of  t>ne  of  the  mail  steamer*;,  who  lost 
his  life  by  being  drowned,  the  particulars  of 
which  I  did  not  learn. 

Caer-Gybi  is  of  some  considerable 
antiquity  marks  of  which  still  remain.  For 
instance,  the  old  church,  where  once  stood  an 
ancient  monastery,  is  surrounded  with  a  wail  of 
Roman  construction  six  feet  thick. 

We  left  here  by  the  through  express  train  for 
Chester,  obtaining  a  good  sight  as  we  steamerl 
along  of  the  column  erected  in  honor  of  the 
Marquis  of  Anglesey,  one  of  the  heroes  of 
Waterloo,  on  which  field  he  lost  a  leg,  also,  the 
far-famed  tubular  bridge  across  the  Menai  strait, 
through  which  we  passed,  and  then  a  tolerable 
good  view  of  the  Menai  suspension  bridge  in  the 
distance. 

On  we  went  at  a  terrible  speed  through  Bel- 
mont   tunnel    726  yards    long,   Bangor  tunnel 


6«  Amh.<  ///,•  AtlijntU. 

i.ooo  yards  lung,  and  several  other  smaller  ones 

getting  in  the  nieaminK',  tolerahly  good  views  u\ 

I'enrhyn  castle,*  the  residence  ot  the  Hon.  Cnl 

lulward     (Jordon    Douglass    Pennant,    M.    1'. 

Beaiimarris   on    the    Anglesey   coast   and  other 

places  of    note,   until    we  arrived   on    ('onway 

marsh.     Away    we   went    with   a   screech   from 

the      iron      horse     through      ("onway      tunnel, 

under  the  ancient  walls  of  the  castle,  emerginj( 

from  which,  we  were  on  the  look  out  for  the  Old 

Castle,  which    wc  had   the   pleasure  of  seeing, 

although  traveling  at  the   rate  of  60  miles  per 

hour.     Conway  castle   is  celebrated    in    Welsh 

history,  and  spoken  of  as  being  the  finest  at  its 

time  in  the  then  known  world.      Its  walls  are  f 

immense  thickness,  with  eight  circular  towers, 

and  was  erected  in  1284  by  Edward  the  first.     It 

was  not  only  the  most  magnificent,  but  the  most 

formidable,   certainly    it     was    in    all    Britain, 

Edward  and  his  beautiful  consort,  Ellen,  (mother 

of  the  first  Prince  of  Wales),   spent  Christma-i 

merrily  in  this  fortress.     Apropos  of  the  Prina 

of    Wales.     This    Prince,   so   desirable    to    the 

natives  of    that  day,   was  born   irj   Carnarvon 

castle,  and  the  motto,  "  Ich  Dien,"  (I  serve),  is  .i 

corruption  of  "  Eich  Dyn,"  (your  man.)     King 

Edward,  (Edouard  or   lorweth),   then   King  of 

England,     to    pacify    the    Welsh,    wJio    were 

•  In  this  neighborhood  are  located  the  celebrated  "  Bur- 
hyn  Slate  guarries,"  which  employ  some  3,000  men  and 


tlontic. 


0\i    the  AthvilU. 


57 


il  other  smaller  oiif>, 
lerably  good  views  m 
-•nc-eot  tlic  Hon.  Col 
ss  Pennant,  M.  1' 
sey  coast  and  other 
arrived  on  Conwiiv 
viti)  a  screech  from 
1  Conway  tunnel 
the  castle,  emerginj{ 
look  out  for  the  Old 
pleasure  of  seeing, 
rate  of  6o  miles  per 
■elebrated  in  Welsh 
jcing  the  finest  at  its 
id.  Its  walls  are  ot 
gill  circular  towers, 
Edward  the  first.  It 
lificent,  but  the  most 
vas  in  all  Britain, 
nsort,  Ellen,  (mother 
;s),  spent  Christmas 
jropos  of  the  Prina 
5o  desirable  to  the 
born  in  Carnarvon 
Dien,"  (I  serve),  is  a 
(your  man.)  King 
•eth),  then  King  ot 
Welsh,    who    were 

ed  the  celebrated  "  Bur- 
ny  some  3,000  men  and 


chiefs  to  Henry  II,  one  of  whom  is  in  the  act  of 
delivering  ihe  keys  (»f  the  fortress  to  Henry. 
After  going  through  some  other  apartment>, 
richly  furnished,  but  of  no  note,  we  took  <<ur 
leave,  and  drove  to  see  the  exterior  of  St.  Pat- 
rick's cathedral.*  This  venerable  pile  is  situated 
on  the  spot  where  St.  Patrick  had  a  well  to  bap- 
tize his  converts,  and  there  built  a  place  ot 
worship,  which  stood  in  890,  The  present 
cathedral  was  partly  erected  in  1190,  for  a  por- 
tion of  it  was  destroyed  by  fire  in  1362,  after 
which  much  was  added  to  it  by  Archbishop 
Minot  in  1370;  the  present  steeple  is  of  this 
date.  Mr.  CJuiness,  the  great  Dublin  brewer, 
generously  expended,  since  i860,  upon  this  vener- 
able building,  upwards  of  ;^ioo,ooo,  or  $500,000  ; 
thus  it  has  been  nearly  restored  to  its  original 
beauty.  Taking  our  dejiarturc  from  here  we 
went  to  the  general  post  office  on  Sackvilli; 
street,  and  nearly  opposite  the  Nelson  monu- 
ment. The  post  office  is  a  beautiful  building, 
surmounted  by  figures  of  Hibernia,  Mercy  anfl 
Fidelity.  The  Nelson  monument  is  a  Huted 
column  of  121  feet  high,  and  cost  $40,000,  raised 
among  Irishmen  who  admired  the  naval  genius 
of  the  hero  of  so  many  battles,  and  who  ended  his 
brilliant  career  with  that  of  Trafalgfir.  ^-V'« 
afterwards  visited  the  custom  house,  Tr"  :, 
college  and  other  public  buildings  of  imposing 
and  very  fine  architecture. 

•  It  was  not  open  to  visitors  at  that  time. 


S8 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


l> 


Next  day  we  drove  to  Phoenix  park  in  a  jaunt- 
ing car,  whereon  you  are  seated  back  to  back,  over 
the  wheels,  a  peculiar  vehicle  to  Ireland  alone. 
There  we  witnessed  a  sham  fight,  and  a  review  of 
the  troops  stationed  here,  fi  very  magnificent  sight. 
There  were  upwards  of  3,000  men  underarms,  the 
music  of  the  bands  was  very  fine,  and  the  move- 
ments of  both  men  and  horses  remarkably  pre- 
cise. Indeed,  they  seemed  to  move  like  machine- 
ry, and  a  delightful  place  is  Phoenix  park.     We 
drove  from  there  to  the  Zoological  gardens  to  sec 
the  wild  beasts,  thence  to  Glasnevin  cemetery, 
where  there  are  monuments  equal  to  any  I  have 
seen  in  Greenwood,  New  York.     On  our  arrival 
we    were   not    long    before  our  attention   was 
attracted  to  tiie  spot  where  rest  the  remains  of 
the  great  Daniel  O'Connell.      They  but  tempor- 
arily rest  where  they  are  at  present,  which  is  a 
vault  with  an  iron  gateway;  the  massive  sarco- 
phagus rests  on  stands,  with  the  large  wreath  of 
evergreens  and  flowers  used  at  the  funeral  laying 
on  top,  and  still  looking  remarkably  fresh  and 
green.     The  name  "  O'Connell "  is  rudely  written 
on  a  board  over  the  doorway.      When  surveying 
the  place  I  could  not  avoid  remarking  to  my  com- 
panions that  "Here,  indeed,  lies  Ireland's  great 
agitator,  whose  memory  will  remain  in  the  hearts 
ot  his  countrymen  as  green  as  the  fields  of  their 
native  Isle."  Soon  the  remains  will  be  removed  to 
their  last  resting  place,  now  in  course  of  con- 
struction, over  which  is  a  granite  round  tower 


itic. 

nix  park  in  a  jaunt- 
d  back  to  back, over 
e  to  Ireland  alone, 
fht,  and  a  review  of 
y  magnificent  sight, 
len  underarms,  the 
fine,  and  the  move- 
!s  remarkably  pre- 
nove  like  machine- 
Phoenix  park.     We 
jical  gardens  to  sec 
lasnevin  cemetery, 
squal  to  any  I  have 
l{.     On  our  arrival 
5ur  attention   was 
JSt  the  remains  of 
They  but  tempor- 
present,  which  is  a 
ie  massive  sarco- 
tie  large  wreath  of 
the  funeral  laying 
arkably  fresh  and 
'  is  rudely  written 
When  surveying 
irking  to  my  com- 
es Ireland's  great 
main  in  the  hearts 
the  fields  of  their 
*vill  be  removed  to 
in  course  of  con- 
inite  round  tower 


Cer  the  Atlantic. 


59 


[ 

I  t6o  feet  high,  erected  in  the  old  tower  style  (i.  e. 
I  the  old  Irish  round  tower.)  It  is  anything  but 
I  beautiful,  but  can  be  seen  for  miles  away  as 
I  marking  the  spot  where  rests  all  that  was  ever 
mortal  of  the  great  agitator.  The  space  around 
the  tower  is  surrounded  with  a  deep  moat,  and  in 
the  vault,  opening  into  this  moat,  are  the  remains 
of  Steele,  O'Connell's  staunch  friend.  Above 
the  door  is  written  "Honest  Tom  Steele."  We 
passed  away  from  here,  and  next  visited  the 
tomb  of  Curran  and  other  past  celebrities,  who 
have  gone  to  that  distant  home  never  to  return 
among  us  again.  Leaving  here,  we  proceeded  to 
the  city,  passing  on  our  way  the  celebrated 
Mount  Joy  prison,  wherein  Lwere  incarce- 
rated the  Fenian  chiefs,  McCafferty,  Burke, 
O'Brien*  and  others  of  the  brotherhood.  I  cer- 
tainly felt  very  much  for  those  unfortunates, 
doomed  as  they  are  to  pass  the  remainder  of  their 
days  within  prison  walls,  subject  to  the  coarse  ad- 
dress and  command  of  their  keepers.  McCafferty 
I  had  seen  in  New  York,  v/hen  making  his  speech 
as  special  envoy  from  Stephens,  before  a  Jones' 
Wood  audience.  Poor  fellow,  he  was  then  full 
of  hope,  and  hiS"  proud  and  defiant  eye  glistened 
when  recounting,  as  he  affirmed,  his  country's 
wrongs. 

After  visiting  St.  Stephen's  Green,  where  there 
are  fine  statutes  of  George  II.  and  of  the  Earl  of 

•  O'Brien  has  been  released  on  certain  conditions,  and  I 
have  since  made  his  acquaintance  at  Troy,  N,  Y. 


6o 


O'rr  the  Aflantk. 


Eglinton,  once  Viceroy  of  Ireland,  the  bank  of 
Ireland,  and  other  places  of  note,  we  prepared  to 
leave  the  Emerald  Isle  to  cross  over  to  Wales. 
But  a  few  remarks  about  Ireland  and  its  people 
will  not  be  inappropriate  before  taking  my  leave 
of  their  country. 

Ireland,  no  doubt,  is  one  of  the  finest  and  most 
fertile  countries  in  the  world,  and  abounds  with 
precious  minerals  which,  with  its  flax,  linen  and 
other  trade,  is  sufficient  to  supply  thrice  the  labor- 
ing community  thereat  present;  but  while  the 
rich  Irish  nobility  or  property  holders  will  persist 
in  going  abroad  to  spend  that  which  they  should 
spend  among  .their  tenantry  and  in  the  country 
generally,  but  poor  hopes  remain  for  Ireland; 
for  if  poverty,  of  which  I  must  acknowledge  I 
.saw  no  more  there  than  I  have  elsewhere,*  is  to  be 
attributed  to  any  cause  whatever,  it  is  decidedly 
to  the  apathy  of  the  rich  and  prodigal  Irish  land 
owners,  who  suck  the  life  blood  out  of  their 
tenantry  by  way  of  iiigh  rents,  which  money 
they  lavish  in  England  and  on  the  continent  of 
Europe.  Such  men— men  of  no  enterprise,  who 
live  for  themselves  alone,  could  do  more,  if  they 
so  willed  it,for  the  pecuniary,  intellectual  and  mor- 
al prosperity  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  soil  from 
Avhich  they  gather  the  means  to  live  in  splendor 
and  idleness,  and  in  return  for  which  they  would 
have  the  gratitude,  love  and  respect  of  a  gener- 
ous and  warm-hearted  people. 

•The  greatest  poverty  exists  in  the  Southern  provinces. 


fi 
Is 

( 


mtic. 

Ireland,  the  bank  of 
note,  we  prepared  to 
TOSS  over  to  Wales. 
;land  and  its  people 
fore  taking  my  leave 

}f  the  finest  and  most 
d,  and  abounds  with 
ith  its  flax,  linen  and 
pply  thrice  the  labor- 
sent  ;  but  while  the 
y  holders  will  persist 
it  which  they  should 
*'  and  in  the  country 
remain  for  Ireland ; 
must  acknowledge  I 
e  elsewhere,*  is  to  be 
itever,  it  is  decidedly 
i  prodigal  Irish  land 

blood  out  of  their 
rents,  which   money 

on  the  continent  of 
if  no  enterprise,  who 
uld  do  more,  if  they 
intellectual  and  mor- 
ints  of  the  soil  from 
IS  to  live  in  splendor 
or  which  they  would 

respect  of  a  gener- 
e. 

the  Southern  provinceis. 


O'er  the  Atlantk,  «* 

Taking  the  train  one  fine  morning  early  to 
Kingston,  by  the  wJ\y  a  very  pretty  place,  where 
we  got  on  board  a  Royal  mail  steamer  to  break- 
fast, we  were  in  the  course  of  a  few  hours  safely 
landed  on  the  other  side  of  the  Irish  channel— 
(North  Wales), 


r 


^* 


O'er  the  AtlafitU. 


LETTER  VI. 

WALES. 

Hoi.YHEAD.— Here  we  staid  only  for  a  short 
time  so  as  to  view  the  pier  or  breakwater  in 
course  of  erection  and  nearly  complete,  which  is 
1,000  feet  long  with  a  light  house  on  the  extreme 
end.     This  vast  piece  of  masonry  is  to  protect 
and   shelter  vessels  while  at  anchor  from  the 
fury    of  wind    and    sea.      Three    government 
steamers  for  the  purpose  of  carrying  mails  and 
passengers  to  and  from  Ireland  leave  here  daily" 
tor  Kingston.     The  immense  sum  of  ;^7oo,ooo 
has  been  expended  by  the  British  government  in 
constructing  and  improving  the  harbor.      The 
Welsh  name  of  the  town  is  Caer  Gybi,  i.  e.  the 
Fort  of  Cybi,  the  latter  word  being  the  name  of 
a  certain  saint  who  died  here,  the  old  church  is 
dedicated  to  that  patron  saint.      On  a  rock  three 
miles  away  is  a  light  house,  called  the  South 
Stack.     The  light  is  produced  from  twenty-one 
lamps,  with   powerful  reflectors,  and  is  212  feet 
above  low  water  mark.      This  light  house  is 
erected  on  a  rock  separated  from  the  main  land 


am 
ins 
am 
Re 

Cli 
ak 
Mi 
Wi 

fai 
thi 

go 
dii 

m( 


^^r.Jt^mmm*iammtm^m 


««//<■. 


VI. 

id  only  for  a  short 
r  or  breakwater  in 
y  complete,  which  is 
louse  on  the  extreme 
asonry  is  to  protect 
It  anchor  from  the 
Three    government 

carrying  mails  and 
nd  leave  here  daily 
e  sum  of  ;^7oo,ooo 
•itish  government  in 
;  the  harbor.      The 

Caer  Gybi,  i.  e.  the 
d  being  the  name  of 
e,  the  old  church  is 
t.  On  a  rock  three 
e,  called  the  South 
3d  from  twenty-one 
ors,  and  is  212  feet 
his  light  house  is 
from  the  main  land 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


«S 


f 

■  by  a  narrow  channel,  over  which  is  a  splendid 
I  iron  suspension  bridge,  and  the  pathway  from 
the  road  above  to  the  bridge  is  composed  of  365 
steps,  one  for  every  day  in  the  year.  Pen-Caer- 
Gybi,  or  Holyhead  mountain,  is  upward  of  700 
feet  high,  from  the  top  of  which  I  was  informed, 
a  splendid  view  of  the  town  and  neighborhood 
can  be  obtained ;  but  I  had  not  the  remotest 
idea  of  carrying  upwards  of  two  hundred 
pounds  of  flesh  to  such  height.  Before  leaving 
we  obtained  a  good  view  of  an  obelisk,  erected 
in  the  distance  to  the  memory  of  a  Captain  in 
command  of  one  of  the  mail  steamers,  who  lost 
his  life  by  being  drowned,  the  particulars  of 
which  I  did  not  learn. 

Caer-Gybi  is  of  some  considerable 
antiquity,  marks  of  which  still  remain.  For 
instance,  the  old  church,  where  once  stood  an 
ancient  monastery,  is  surrounded  with  a  wall  of 
Roman  construction  six  feet  thick. 

We  left  here  by  the  through  express  train  for 
Chester,  obtaining  a  good  sight  as  we  steamed 
along  of  the  column  erected  in  honor  of  the 
Marquis  of  Anglesey,  one  of  the  heroes  of 
Waterloo,  on  which  field  he  lost  a  leg,  also,  the 
far-famed  tabular  bridge  across  the  Menai  strait, 
through  which  we  passed,  and  then  a  tolerable 
good  view  of  the  Menai  suspension  bridge  in  the 
distance. 

On  we  went  at  a  terrible  speed  through  Bel- 
mont   tunnel    726  yards    long,   Bangor  tunnel 


■'i_ii!r*s.i',ii.»;    ■.;'fii,-;f>ft~4iJ'»ai)|J«yifiaSf<M'T*!si*M*.lfew 


64 


Across  the   Atlantic. 


1,000  yards  long,  and  several  other  smaller  ones, 
getting  in  the  meantime,  tolerably  good  views  of 
Penrhyn  castle,*  the  residence  of  the  Hon.  Col. 
Edward  Gordon  Douglass  Pennant,  M.  P., 
Beaumarris  on  the  Anglesey  coast  and  other 
places  of  note,  until  we  arrived  on  Conwav 
marsh.  Away  we  went  witii  a  screech  from 
the  iron  horse  through  Conway  tunnel, 
under  the  ancient  walls  of  tiie  castle,  emerging 
from  which,  wc  were  on  the  look  out  for  the  Old 
Castle,  which  we  had  the  pleasure  of  seeing, 
although  traveling  at  the  rate  of  60  miles  per 
hour.  Conway  castle  is  celebrated  in  Welsh 
history,  and  spoken  of  as  being  the  finest  at  its 
time  in  the  then  known  world.  Its  walls  are  ol 
immense  thickness,  with  eight  circular  towers, 
and  was  erected  in  1284  by  Edward  the  first.  It 
was  not  only  the  most  magnificent,  but  the  most 
formidable,  certainly  it  was  in  all  Britain. 
Edward  and  his  beautiful  consort,  Ellen,  (mother 
of  the  first  Prince  of  Wales),  spent  Christmas 
merrily  in  this  fortress.  Apropos  of  the  Prince 
of  Wales.  This  Prince,  so  desirable  to  the 
natives  of  that  day,  was  born  in  Carnarvon 
castle,  and  the  motto,  "  Ich  Dien,"  (I  serve),  is  a 
corruption  of  "  Eich  Dyn,"  (your  man.)  King 
Edward,  (Edouard  or  lorweth),  then  King  of 
England,     to    pacify    the    Welsh,    who    were 

•  In  this  neighborhood  are  located  the  celebrated  "  Bur- 
hyn  Slate  Quarries,"  which  emplov  some  3,000  men  and 
bovs. 


0\r  the  Atlantic. 


«s 


licr  smaller  ones, 
ily  good  views  ot 
iS.  the  Hon.  Col. 
'ennant,  M.  P., 
coast  and  other 
.'ed  on  Conway 
a  ■  screecli  from 
onway  tunnel, 
castle,  emerging 
I  out  for  the  Old 
Lsure  of  seeing, 
of  60  miles  per 
rated  in  Welsii 
f  the  finest  at  its 
Its  walls  are  ol 
circular  towers, 
ard  the  first.  It 
!nt,  but  the  most 
in  all  Britain, 
t,  Ellen,  (mother 
spent  Christmas 
OS  of  the  Prime 
esirable  to  the 
1  in  Carnarvon 
n,*'  (I  serve),  is  a 
ur  man.)  King 
,  then  King  of 
Ish,    who     were 

le  celebrated  "  Bur- 
ime  3,000  men  and 


rebellious,  promised  them  in  return  for  their 
allegiance  that  they  should  have  a  Prince  born 
in  Wales,  to  whom  they  should  owe  alle- 
giance. To  fulfill  which  promise,  the  shrewd 
King  sent  for  his  consort  from  London,  who  at 
the  time  was  enciente,  and  had  her  brought  into 
Wales,  where  she  was  delivered  of  a  male 
infant.  Thus  were  the  Welsh  quieted,  and 
hence  the  origin  of  "  Prince  of  Wales."  * 
Conway  castle  is  now  the  property  of  the  gov- 
ernment, but  held  at  a  nominal  rent  by  the 
Dowager  Lady  Erskine.  On  we  went  at  light- 
ning speed,  (for  this  train  stops  at  no  place 
between  Holyhead  and  Chester,  88  miles), 
obtaining  splendid  views  of  the  channel  with  the 
great  Ormeshead  in  the  distance,  passing  through 
or  by  Abergele,  St.  Asaph,  Holywell,  Hawarden, 
with  its  castle  in  the  distance,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
more  enter  the  very  ancient  city  of— 

Chester. — On  our  arrival  there  we  were 
recommended  to  go  to  the  Queen's  Hotel, 
adjoining  the  railway  station,  a  splendid  house, 
owned  by  the  RaihVay  company,  an  elegant 
place  to  stay  at,  but  rather  expensive,  verifying 
the  old  adage,  "  If  you  dance  pay  the  piper." 
The  city  is  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river 
Dee,  and  is  supposed  to  have  been  founded  by 

*  Edward,  when  presenting  the  infant  Prince  to  the 
Welsh  Chieftains,  remarked :  "  P^ele  eich  dyn"  (Behold 
your  man),  and  for  many  years  after,  such  was  the  motto  on 
the  Prince's  crest. 


■  --SWfceVtii^Na^ai-riWiV^i.'.v* 


66 


O'fr  the  Atlantk. 


i 


*  V* 


the  Romans.     The  wall  surrounding  it  is  in  an 
excellent  state  of  preservation,*  as  also  a-.  Jie 
gateways,  named  respectively  East  gate.  North 
gate,   Water  gate  and   Bridge  gate.     A  great 
many  Roman  antiquities  have  been  found  here, 
some  of  which    I    will    name  hereafter.      The 
Romans  appear  to  have  left  it  in  the  fifth  century 
when  it  became  subject  to  British  rule.     In  the 
ninth  century    it  was    taken    from    them  and 
annexed  to  the  Saxon  crown,  but  shortly  after- 
wards it   was  taken   by  the  Danes  and   nearly 
destroyed.  William,  the  Norman  conqueror,  after- 
wards restored  it,  and  made  his  nephew,  Hugh 
Lupus,  Earl  of  Chester,^  who,  it  is  said,  repaired 
the  wall,  and  erected  the  castle  to  reside  in.    The 
Prince  of  Wales,  since  the  reign  of  Henry  HI, 
isjn  addition  to  his  other  titles,  of  which  he  has 
many,  Earl  of  Chester. 

It  was  here  that  Edward  of  Carnarvon  received 
the  submission  of  the  Welsh  in  1309.  The  first 
Royal  charter  was  granted  by  Henry  III,  and  in  tie 
civil  wars  of  that  weak  monarch,  Charles  the 
first.  The  city  was  besieged  and  taken  by  the 
Parliamentary  force  in  1605,  at  which  time  the 
wall  completely  surrounded  it,  and  from  a 
circular  tower  on   the   wall,   Charles,  King  of 

the  dt''  '^*"*  ^^"^^^  '^"  excellent  walk  of  two  miles  around 

o.i^  K?"I'  ^1  *H»''0"*y.  convened  a  parliament  here,  where 
asseinbled  the  Barons  and  their  chief  tenants,  who  were 
not  bound  by  acts  of  the  English  Parliament.    (B  G  ) 


Knglant 
tlie  sue 
which  is 


> 


f 


An 
Wevi 

qiiisof  '' 
residenc 
doing  so 
of  a  Stat 
iiiforme< 
Eton  hal 
principa 
park, a  t 
entrance 

;^  1 0,000 

the  mar 
shown  tl 
ance  fo: 
and  gra 
being  01 
statuary. 
The  wall 
After  go 
open  to 
the  stabl 
&c.,  but  1 
stables,  c 
One  of 
charge  a 


O'lr  the  Athntic. 


67 


ling  it  is  in  an 
IS  also  a:  ^  the 
St  gate,  North 
ate.     A  great 
;n  found  here, 
;reafter.      The 
le  fifth  century 
I  rule.     In  the 
•m    them  and 
shortly  after- 
s  and   nearly 
nqueror,  after- 
lephew,  Hugh 
said,  repaired 
eside  in.    The 
of  Henry  HI, 
which  he  has, 

rvon  received 
39.  The  first 
III,andint!:e 
Charles  the 
taken  by  the 
lich  time  the 
and  from  a 
les,  King  of 

o  miles  around 

ent  here,  where 
lilts,  who  were 
t.    (B.G.) 


England,  witnessed  the  defeat  of  Ills  army  and 
tlie  success  of  tlie  Parliamentary  armv,  on 
which  is  the  following  inscription  . 

Kino  Chari.ks  siood  ox  this  Tower, 
September  24th,  1645, 
^(y  And  saw  his  army  defeated  on  Rowton  Moor, 

i/     We  visited  Eton  hall,  the  residence  of  the  Mar- 
qiiisof  Westminister,  one  of  the  most  magnificent 
residences  in  England.     A  charge  is   made  for 
doing  so.     Tickets  of  admission  can  be  obtained 
of  a  stationer  in  Ciiester,  which  money  we  were 
informed    is    applied    to    charitable    purposes. 
Eton  hall  is  about  four  miles  from  Chester,  tlie 
■principal  part  of  the  distance  is  that  through  the 
park,  a  beautiful  drive.     Grosvenor  Lodge,  at  the 
entrance  to   the  park,  was  erected  at  a  cost   of 
;^io,ooo.     It  is  of  Gothic  architecture,  as  also  is 
tlie   mansion.     On    our  arrival   there   we   were 
shown  through  the  house  by  a  person  in  attend- 
ance   for    that    purpose,   which    was    gorgeous 
and  grand,   furniture,   tapestry  and   ornaments 
being  of  the   richest   kind,  and  the  paintings, 
statuary,  were  by .  the  most  celebrated  masters. 
The  walls  and  ceilings  were  beautifully  frescoed. 
After  going  through  that  part  of  the   interior 
open  to  the  public,  we  were  taken  and   shown 
the  stables,  carriage  houses,  carriages,  harness, 
&c.,  but  no  horses,  there  being  none  kept  in  the 
stables,  owing  to  the  family's  absence  in  London. 
One  of  the  under  gardeners  then  took   us  in 
charge  and  escorted   us  over  the  gardens  and 


r-i^f^^----*-- 


«8 


OVr  Me  Athntif. 


pleasure    grounds,   tlie    latter    beautifully   and 
artistically    laid  out    with  all  kinds  of  Howers. 
Before  taking  our  leave  we  were  shown  a  Gothii 
temple  recently  erected  lor  the  reception  of  a 
Roman   altar,   found,  as  1  remarked  heretofore 
near  Chester,  and  some  .uosaic  pavement  from 
the  palace  of  the  Emperor  Tiberius.     We  then, 
after  feeing  his  Lordship's  servants,  which  they 
always  look   for,  and  for  which  they  bow  and 
scrape  a  great  deal,  touching  their  hats  or  pulling 
at  a  lock  of  hair  every  time  they  speak  to  you  or 
answer  a  question,  quite  a  novelty  to  Americans, 
bade  adieu  to  this  magnificent  mansion  with  its 
gorgeous  furniture  and  rare  works  of  art,  and 
drove  back  to  Chester,  to  take  a  look  at  the  old 
Cathedral ;  but  before  giving  you  an  account  of 
what  we  saw  there,  I  will  give  you  some  idea  of 
the  immense  wealth  of  the  Marquis  of  Westmin- 
ster,    I   was   informed   by  a  gentleman,  whose 
acquaintance    I   made,   that    this    nobleman    is 
actually  in    receipt    of    $2,250,000   per  annum, 
which  will  shortly  be  more  than  trebled  by  the 
passing  into   his   hands    on    the  expiration    of 
leases,  immense  and   very  valuable  property  in 
London.      The    whole    of    Belgravia,   Pimlico. 
Westminster,  and   the  greater  part  of  Fulham. 
will  pass  into  his  hands.     Those  places  consti- 
tute the  greater  portion  of  the  "  West  End,"  the 
finest  and  most  aristocratic  part  of  London,  thus 
adding  an  immense  and  most  incalculable  amount 
of  wealth  to  his  present  income,  which  altogether 


beautifully  and 
duds  of  flowers. 
;  shown  a  Gothic 
e  reception  of  a 
iirkeci  heretofore 
pavement  from 
erius.  We  then, 
•ants,  which  they 
li  they  bow  and 
ir  hats  or  pulling 

speak  to  you  or 
ty  to  Americans, 
nansion  with  its 
orks  of  art,  and 
L  look  at  the  old 
>u  an  account  of 
ou  some  idea  of 
uis  of  Westmin- 
;ntleman,  whose 
s  nobleman  is 
300  per  annum, 
n  trebled  by  the 
2  expiration  of 
ble  property  in 
jravia,  Pimlico. 
)art  of  Fulhani, 
E  places  consti- 

West  End,"  the 
)(  London,  thus 
Iculable  amount 
i-hich  altogether 


O'er  the  AtUtittU.  69 

is  not  less  tiian  iivc  dollars  per  niiuute,  a  sum 
<|uite  sufficient  for  any  economical  and  respect- 
able American  to  live  and  die  on.  We  will  now 
leave  this  old  fellow  to  roll  in  his  wealth  and 
proceed  to  give  a  brief  account  of  the  very 
imcient  Chester  cathedral.  It  stands  on  the  site 
nf  the  Saxon  Monastery  of  St.  Wesburgli, 
founded  in  660.  The  present  building,  or  rather 
|)arts  of  it,  was  built  in  the  reign  of  Henry  the 
()(li,  7th  and  8th.  We  were  very  much  struck 
with  the  beatity  and  imposing  appearance  of 
this  venerable  old  structure,  with  its  massive  and 
crumbling  walls.  We  were. shown  a  very  exten- 
sive and  elaborate  piece  of  needle  work,  many 
centuries  old,  an  altar  screen,  and  the  elaborate 
carving  of  the  wood  work  must  be  seen  to  be 
ap|)reciated,  when  it  cannot  fail  to  command 
admiration  ;  and  among  many  other  and  curious 
relics,  we  were  shown  a  copy  of  the  scriptures 
written  on  parchment  with  the  pen  in  11 13,  and 
in  an  excellent  state  of  preservation.  After 
feeing  the  venerable  and  polite  old  gentleman 
who  accompanied  us  aroiuid  the  building,  wc 
took  our  leave,  and  requested  Mr.  Bow-and- 
srrape  (the  driver),  which  was  answered  with  a 
^'j11  of  the  hair  and  a  few  affected  gutteral 
sounds,  to  drive  us  back  to  the  hotel.  Fatigued 
we  certainly  were,  but  satisfied  with  what  we  had 
seen.  So  after  partaking  of  a  hearty  meal  we 
retired  to  our  rooms  and  were  soon  locked  in  the 
hands  of  Morpheifs. 


70 


O'er  t/i,-  Atlantic, 


Bflorc  leaving  CJiester  I   must  sav  a  little  of 
the  old  town  itself,  especially  of  some  of  the  old 
buildings  still  standing  in  some  parts  of  the  city 
These   old   structures   h.ive  a  very   picturesque 
appearance   with   their  gable  end's  toward   the 
street,  high  pointed  roofs  and  small  diamond  pane' 
windows  (all  framed  buildings)  with  elaborate, 
carved  gables  in  good  preservation,  built  so  that 
you  can   wail:   along    the   sidewalks  with   the 
second   floor  ove-  your   head,   thus  protectinir 
pedestrians  from  the  inclemency  of  the  weather. 
Wise  old  fellows  were  our  forefathers. 

There  but  little  remains  of  the  castle,  although 
at  one  time  a  noble  structure.     Large  barracks 
have  been  erected  adjoining  the  old  tower  which 
contains  50,000  stand  of  arms,  besides  IJ5  pieces 
of   ordnance.      There  are    several    fine    public 
buildings,  among  which  I  may  name  the  Shire 
hall(ccurt  house),   the  Grosvenor  and  Queen's 
hotel,  and  the  railway  station,  the  latter^a  very 
large  and  commodious  building,  built  of  hard 
dark-faced   brick.      The   station   is   the  central 
terminus  for  the  London  &  Northwestern,  Birk- 
enhead  &    Chester,   Lancashire  &  Chester,  and 
Chester  &   Holyhead  Railways.     Thus  there  is 
communication   with  all   parts  of    the  United 
Kingdom.     Opposite  the   barracks  is  an  eques- 
trian statue,  partially  uncovered,  (it   not  being 
yet  made  public),  who  it  represents  I  did  not 
learn.     Whoever  it  may   be,  it  is  a  fine  work  of 


mmm 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


7' 


List  sny  a  little  of 
r  some  of  the  old 
:  parts  of  the  city, 
very  picturesquf 
ends  toward  tlic 
lall  diamond  pane 
i)  with  elaborate- 
tion,  built  so  that 
ewalks  with  the 
thus  protectinjr 
>'  of  the  weather, 
ithers. 
3  castle,  although 

Large  barracks 
old  tower  which 
esides  125  pieces 
Tal  fine  public 
name  the  Shire 
lorand  Queen's 
iie  latter  a  very 
r,  built  of  hard, 

is  the  central 
thwestern,  Birk- 
&  Chester,  and 

Thus  there  is 
of  the  United 
ks  is  an  eques- 
I,  (it  not  being 
sents  I  did  not 
i  a  fine  work  of 


art,  and  will  add  much  to  the  appearance  of  the 
city. 

•  Leaving  this  ancient  place  we  took  our  scats  in 
the  Shrewsbury  and  Chester  Railway  cars,  passing 
through  Wrexham,  where  we  had  an  excellent 
view  of  the  old  church  and  its  tower,  erected  in 
1742.  The  latter  is  134  feet  high  and  of  exquisite 
workmanship,  decorated  with  statues  of  various 
saints  placed  in  niches  from  top  to  bottom. 
Away  we  went  at  the  rate  of  fifty  miles  an  hour 
past  Ruabon  and  Llangollen,  the  latter  the  birth 
place  of  /enny  Jones,  the  maid  of  Llangollen, 
rendered  so  famous  in  song.  We  see  Chirk 
castle  in  the  distance,  founded  in  1013.  In  this 
castle  is  the  state  bed  in  which  Charles  the  first 
slept,  and  a  beautiful  cabinet  presented  by  him  to 
the  then  residing  family.  The  adjacent  valley 
is  the  scene  of  conflict  between  the  armies  of 
Henry  the  second,  and  that  of  the  Welsh  Prince, 
Owain  Gwynedd,  the  brave  Prince  of  1165. 
Still  on  at  great  speed  leaving  Oswestry  to 
the  right  until  we  arrive  at  Shrewsbury. 


7* 


O'tr  the  Atlantic. 


LETTER  VII. 

WALES,  CONTINUED. 

Shrewsburv.— Here  we  stay  but  an  hour, 
affording  us  but  a  short  time  to  look  around. 
Its  ancient  name  was  Pengwern,  and  is  situated 
upon  the  banks  of  the  river  Severn.  William 
the  Conqueror  gave  this  town  to  Roger  de  Mont- 
gomery, one  of  his  followers,  together  with  the 
title  of  earl,  who  erected  here  a  strong  baronial 
castle.  In  1403  a  desperate  battle  was  fought 
near  the  town  between  the  forces  of  Henry  IV 
and  that  of  the  rebel  Earl  of  Northumberland, 
under  the  command  of  Lord  Percy,  surnamed 
Hotspur,  when  the  death  of  the  latter  gave  the 
victory  to  the  Royalists.  The  old  buildings  are 
similar  to  those  described  at  Chester,  and  are  in 
an  excellent  state  of  preservation.  Some  of  the 
Royal  charters  were  granted  by  Richard  I  and 
Charles  I.  P'lannel,  flax,  thread  and  linen  lacto- 
nes are  located  there,  doing  a  thriving  trade. 

Taking  our  seats  once  more  in  the  cars  we  left 
this  ancient  town  and  proceeded  on  our  journey 
through  Ludnow,  getting  a  glimpse  of  the  old 


castl 

until 

H 

the 

very 

ed  b; 

in  II 

year; 

favoi 

great 

stanc 

greer 

whicl 

feetl 

A  dm 

falga: 

Hann< 

popu! 

,    Ab 

situat 

moun 

neigh 

mona 

conqii 

are  tl 

feet ; 

Welsl 

side  o 

"Ch* 
EnglisI 
Welsh 


SeWTatrri 


r 


•    but   an  hour, 
J  look    around. 

and  is  situated 
vern.  William 
■ioger  de  Mont- 
fether  with  the 
strong  baronial 
tie  was  fought 
s  of  Henry  IV 
Drthumbcrland, 
ircy,  surnamed 
latter  gave  the 
1  buildings  are 
ster,  and  are  in 
Some  of  the 

Richard  I  and 
nd  linen  iV-cto- 
ving  trade, 
he  cars  we  left 
n  our  journey 
pse  of  the  old 


i 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


73 


castle  as  we  went  past,  u\\  througii  Leamington, 
until  we  arrived  in — 

Hereford, — This  fine  old  city  is  situated  on 
the  banks  of  the  river  Wye.  The  cathedral,  a 
very  classic  building,  dates  from  825.  Destroy- 
ed by  fire  in  1074,  it  was  rebuilt  and  completed 
in  1 120.  Its  fine  tower  was  added  to  it  about  1 20 
years  ago.  In  this  city  was  born  Nell  Gwyn,  the 
favorite  of  Charles  II,  and  David  Garrick,  the 
great  actor,  in  the  year  17 16,  in  an  old  house  now 
standing,  called  the  Angel  Inn.  On  the  castle 
green,  where  formerly  stood  an  ancient  castle,  of 
which  no  vestige  remains,  is  a  slonecolumn  sixty 
feet  high,  erected  to  commemorate  the  victories  o 
Admiral  Lord  Viscount  Nelson,  the  hero  of  Tra- 
falgar. Several  factories  for  the  manufacture  of 
flannel,  g'oves,  hats.  &c.,  are  at  work,  and  the 
population  is  about  17,000.     On  we  went  to — 

Abergavenny.— This  pretty  little  town  is 
situated  near  the  river  Usk,  surrounded  by  high 
mountains,  and  was  formerly  walled  in.  In  the 
neighborhood  are  the  ruins  of  an  old  castle  and 
monastery,  built  some  time  after  the  Norman 
conquest.  The  high  mountains  in  the  vicinity 
are  the  Sugarloaf,  1,852  high;  Blarenge,  1,720 
feet ;  Skirrid-fach,  765  fefct.  It  is  substantially  a 
Welsh  town,  although  situated  on  the  English 
side  of  the  boundary.*     The  very  extensive  coal 

"*  Chester,  Shrewsbury  and  Hereford  are  now  also  on  the 
English  side  of  the  boundary,  although  classed  herein  as 
Welsh  towns. 
C 


74 


O'er  the  Atlaiitk. 


\'    "i 


and  iron  works  of  Blaenavon,  and  other  works 
are  in  the  neighborhood,  thus  contributing 
material  increase  to  the  general  business  of  the 
place. 

We  will  now  put  the  iron  horse  once 
more  in  motion  and  proceed  on  our  journey, 
passing  Pontypool,  where  there  are  extensive 
iron  and  tin  works,  over  the  great  Crumlin 
viaduct  which  spans  the  Ebw  Vale  at  the  village 
of  Crumlin.  This  vast  structure  is  composed  of 
open  lig-ht  iron  Avork,  of  which  there  are  ten 
spans,  etch  measuring  150  feet,  with  pieces  of 
iron  girded  204  feet  high.  The  whole  cost  of  it 
was  ;^40,ooo  or  $200,000,  a  small  sum  when  com- 
pared with  the  magnitude  of  the  undertaking, 
which  has  to  be  seen  10  be  appreciated.  On  we 
go  through  Aberdare,  noted  for  its  very  extensive 
coal  works,  steaming  through  the  beautiful 
Vale  of  Neath  (Cwmnedd)  until  we  arrive  in  the 
fast  improving  town  of — 

Neath,— Called  by  the  Welsh,  Castelnedd,  a 
place  of  great  antiquity,  situated  on  the  banks  of 
Neath  river,  is  one  of  the  most  flourishing  towns 
in  South  Wales. 

The  old  castle,  once  the  property  of  Jestvn  ap 
Gwrgan  (Jestyn  the  s6n  of  Gwrgan,)  Lord  of 
Morgarm<g,  was  burned  in  1231,  by  Llewellyn 
ap*  lorweth,  and  of  which  now  but  little  remains 
but  the  vast  and  extensive  ruins  of  Neath  Abbey, 

.    *  Ap  signitics  son  of 


callec 
serve 
rema: 
by  Ri 
came 
ed  it 
small 
them 
It  w 
Edwa 
short 
Tlie  s 
comp 
embe: 
presei 
stone, 
The  V 
Chapi 
with  i 
pillar 
still  i 
say  til 
of  ha 
and  tl 
on  til 
ways, 
war,  i\ 
of  thi 
a  solit 
of  th< 
our  hi 


liWi 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


75 


id  other  works 
s  contributing 
business  of  the 


n  horse  once 
11  our  journey, 
'■  are  extensive 
great  Crumlin 
e  at  the  village 
is  composed  of 

there  are  ten 
with  pieces  of 
rhole  cost  of  it 
>um  when  coni- 
e  undertaking, 
;iated.  On  we 
very  extensive 

the    beautiful 
e  arrive  in  the 

,  Caste/nedit,  a 
n  the  banks  of 
1  fishing  towns 

)•  of  Jestyn  ap 
•gan,)  Lord  of 
by  Llewellyn 
;  little  remains 
Neath  Abbev, 


called  by  Leland  "the  fairest  in  all  Wales,"  de- 
serves from  the  tourist  more  than  a  passing 
remark.  This  fine  old  building  was  completed 
by  Richard  de  Granville  (who  after  the  conquest 
came  into  possession  of  the  castle),  and  dedicat- 
ed it  to  the  Holy  Trinity,  placing  therein  a 
small  commtuiity  of  Grey  Friars,  and  giving 
them  large  possessions  for  their  maintenance 
It  was  at  this  Monastery  the  unfortunate 
Edward  III  found  temporary  shelter  in  1326,  a 
short  time  before  he  lost  his  kingdom  and  life. 
Tiie  structure  is  built  of  walls  of  great  thickness, 
composed  of  native  stone,  with  tlie  corners  and 
embellishments  of  a  sort  of  cement,  which  in  its 
present  appearance  resembles  wliite  sand  or  free- 
stone, and  is  equally  as  hard  if  not  more  so. 
The  walls  of  the  Abbot's  house  \vith  parts  of  the 
Chapter  house  and  refectory  remain — the  latter 
with  its  heavy  and  high  pointed  arches,  massive 
pillars  and  large  fire  place  and  stone  mantel,  is 
still  in  a  good  state  of  preservation.  And  I  may 
say  that  here,  amid  the  roar  of  furnaces,  clanking 
of  hammers,  the  humming  of  the  cold  blast  fan, 
and  the  puffing  and  whistling  of  the  iron  horse 
on  the  South  Wales  and  Vale  of  Neath  Rail- 
ways, and  in  spite  of  the  ravages  of  time,  of 
war,  and  weather,  there  still  stand  vast  portions 
of  this  once  extensive  and  magnificent  building, 
a  solitary  memento  of  the  past  ages  and  thegeniuf 
of  the  people  of  hose  days.  We  will  now  raise 
our  hat  to  old  Neath  Abbey  and  proceed  to— 


76 


Cer  the  Atlantic. 


>-n: 


Bridgend,— We  made  but  a  very  short   stay- 
here  ;  having  hired  what  is  called  a  trap  by  the 
natives,  a   term  quite  as  appropriate  as  rigging, 
a  vehicle  on  two  wheels,  whereon  we  sat  back  to 
back,  we  proceeded  to   St.  Donat's,  nine  miles 
distant.      While  there  we  were  entertained  at  the 
house  of  the    mother    of    an    American   friend 
and  neighbor,  where  we  passed  a  pleasant  hour 
or  two.     We  failed  to  obtain  admission  into  the 
castle  for  the  want  of  admission  cards  from  Dr 
Came,  the  present  proprietor  or  lessee,  resident 
three  miles  from  the  place,  so  had  to  content  our- 
selves with  a  sight  of  its  outward  walls,  and  a 
splendid   marine   view,  overlooking  the   Bristol 
cliannel.  The  castle  is  of  Norman  architecture.  For 
684  years  it  remained  in  possession  of  a  family 
called  Straddling,  and  afterwards  in  that  of  the 
name   of  Drake,  no   doubt   descendants  of  Sir 
Francis  Drake,  the  celebrated  Admiral  of  Qudtjn 
Elizabeth's  reign,  and  the  hero  of  the  Spanish 
Arniiida  invasion.      I  was  informed  that  the  car- 
ving, &c.,  of  the  interior  is  very  fine.     Near  to 
the  castle  and  covered  with   foliage,  is  the  old 
cliurch,  while  a  portion  of  an  old  watch  tower 
occupies  a  position  on  the  opposite  hill  looking 
towards  the  sea.     Until  the  light  house  near  by 
was    erected,   many    were    the     wrecks    which 
occurred  in  this  neighborhood,  of  which  are  told 
heart-rending  and  strange  stories.     Portions  of 
unfortunate  vessels  can  be  seen  in  and  around 
the  village  at  this  day.      In  the  churchyard  is  an 


ancie 

casth 

Eliza 

conic 

to  ou 

way  1 

for— 

Mc 

altho 

to  thi 

boroi; 

speak 

residi 

them 

(as  th 

we  wi 

Sw. 

is  bea 

banks 

its  nai 

perha] 

ing  ra 

Her 

of  wh 

'Phere 

pwned 

for  ins 

Chili, 

iron  ai 

&c.   Li 

of  shi] 


,_/ 


O'er  the  Atlantie. 


ery  short  stay 
1  a  trap  by  the 
ate  as  rigging, 

we  sat  back  to 
t's,  nine  miles 
tertained  at  the 
nerican   friend 

pleasant  hour 
lission  into  the 
cards  from  Dr 
lessee,  resident 
to  content  on  r- 
1  walls,  and  a 
ig  the   Bristol 
:hitecture.  For 
>n  of  a  family 
in  that  of  the 
ndants  of  Sir 
iral  of  Qudtjn 
F  the  Spanish 
d  that  the  car- 
ine.     Near  to 
?e,  is  the  old 

watch  tower 
e  hill  looking 
louse  near  by 
rrecks  which 
irhich  are  told 
Portions  of 
1  and  around 
rchyard  is  an 


77 


ancient  stone  cross  of  great  elegance.  The 
castle  and  church  figured  much  in  the  reigns  of 
Elizabeth  and  James  I.  Having  seen  all  that  we 
could  of  antiquated  St.  Donat's,  we  bade  adieu 
to  our  newly  acquired  friends  and  retraced  our 
way  back  to  Bridgend,  where  wc  took  the  train 
for— 

MoRRiSTON.— Here  we  will  halt  for  a  few  days 
although  the  place  lias  nothing  to  recommend  it 
to  the  tourist,  it  being  simply  a  portion  of  the 
borough  of  Swansea  ( Abertaw^),  of  which  we  shall 
speak  of  next,  but  some  relati\'es  of  the  writer 
residing  here  we  will  have  to  sojourn  among 
them  for  a  season;  indeed,  we  are  now  among 
(as  the  scriptures  sayeth)  "  our  own  people,"  s(^ 
we  will  have  to  tarry  frequently  as  we  go  along. 
Swansea, — The  principal  town  of  South  Wales, 
is  beautifully  situated  between  lofty  hills  on  the 
banks  of  the  river  Tawe,  from  which  it  derives 
its  name  in  Welsh,  Abertawe.  Its  population  is 
perhaps  6o,ooo  to  70,000  persons,  and  is  increas- 
ing rapidly  in  commerce  and  size. 

Here  are  the  largest  copper  works  in  the  world, 
of  which  the  Messrs.  Vivian  are  the  proprietors. 
There  are  also  extensive  copper  and  silver  works 
|)wned  by  other  equally  enterprising  persons; 
for  instance,  that  owned  by  a  Mr.  Lambert,  from 
Chili,  South  America,  and  several  very  large 
iron  and  tin  works,  .patent  fuel  works,  potteries, 
&c.  Large  floating  docks  for  the  accommodation 
of  shipping  have  within  the  last  ten  years  been 


78 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


constructed.  Indeed,  such  have  been  the  im- 
provements made  within  a  score  of  years,  that 
one  who  has  been  absent  for  tliat  time  would 
scarcely  know  the  place  at  present. 

Swansea  carries  on  an  extensive  trade  in  cop- 
per ore  with  Chili,  South  America,  and  the  island 
of  Cuba,  in  the  West  Indies,  which,  when  manu- 
factured into  copper,  is  shipped  to  London  and 
Liverpool,  and  from  there  to  al!  parts  of  the 
world.  It  is  also  ;i  delightful  watering  place;  a 
fine  sandy  beach  and  plenty  of  sea-vvarer  for  bath- 
ing, attracts  numerous  visitors  to  iliis  eiiterprisinpf 
town  during  the  summer  irumths,  thus  augment- 
ing its  wealth  and  resources. 

The  castle,  of  wliich  but  a  portion  remt^ins,  is 
said  to  have  been  erected  by  one  flenry  Beau- 
mont, Earl  of  Warwick,  a  Norman  leader  of 
1113,  adjoining  which  has  recently  been  erected 
a  very  handsome  building  by  the  government 
for  a  post-office.  The  castle,  in  which  tlie  volun- 
teers hold  their  drills,  is  the  property  of  the  duke 
of  Beaufort,  as  baron  of  (Jower.  There  are  also 
many  fine  public  and  commercial  buildings  here, 
among  which  I  may  name  the  town  hall  or  court 
house,  a  beautiful  Grecian  structure;  the  royal 
institution  of  South  Wales,  an  elegant  building 
which  contains  a  valuable  library;  museum  of 
arts  and  sciences;  museum  of  antiquities,  a  visit 
to  which  will  be  most  interesting  to  the  stranger 
i-nd  tourist.  There  are  also  very  massive  build- 
ings erected  from  native  stone,  hewn  rock  work, 


..iilllllWIII 


O'cf  the  Atlantic. 


79 


been  the  inn- 
!  of  years,  that 
at  time  would 
t. 

e  trade  in  cop- 
,  and  the  ishind 
li,  when  nianu- 
o  London  and 
!l  parts  of  the 
tering  place;  a 
vvsirer  ft>r  bath- 
lisf  uterprisinpf 
thus  augment- 
ion  remt^ins,  is 
;  Henry  Beau- 
man  leader  of 
y  been  erected 
le  government 
iiich  tlie  volun- 
rty  of  the  dtike 

There  are  also 
buildings  here, 
n  hall  or  court 
ure;  the  royal 
egant  building 
y;  museum  of 
iquities,  a  visit 
to  the  stranger 
massive  build- 
ivn  rock  work» 


for  instance,  the  House  of  Correction  or  Goal, 
Union  Poor  House,  Infirmary,  House  of  Indus- 
try, Normal  School,  Music  Hall,  Gas-works,  &c., 
all  on  a  gigantic  scale  and  substantially  erected, 
as  if  to  last  for  ages  to  come.  A  few  miles 
from  Swansea  is  a  pretty  little  watering  place 
called  Oyster-mouth,  by  some  the  Mumbles,  a 
delightful  place  to  pass  away  a  few  weeks  or 
months  during  the  summer  weather.  We  visited 
twice  here  an  old  friend  of  the  writer,  a  Mr.  G. 
Bowen,  who,  with  his  family,  had  taken  up  their 
residence  there  for  the  summer,  during  which 
time  we  enjoyed  ourselves  very  much. 

MuMBi.Ks  is  a  small  but  romantic  village,  with 
its  beach  washed  by  the  tidal  waters  of  the  Swan- 
sea bay,  built  at  the  foot  of  very  bold  high  cliffs, 
(limestone  cliffs).  The  "  Mumbles  head"  is  a 
bold  rocky  projection  against  which  the  waters 
of  the  bay  dash  with  more  or  less  fury,  accord- 
ing to  the  weather,  and  on  which  a  fine  light- 
house is  erected,  surrounded  with  a  fort,  thus 
affording  not  only  protection,  but  security 
amid  perils  to  the  benighted  mariner.  This 
bay  is  not  surpassed  by  any  other  on  the  British 
coast  for  sheltering  vessels  from  the  fury  of  sea 
and  wind ;  indeed,  the  writer  of  these  lines  has 
often,  years  ago,  had  to  avail  himself  of  the 
friendly  shelter  which  this  little  bay  affords  the  : 
mariner.  Oystermouth  castle  is  a  very  fine  old 
building,  erected  by  Henry  Beaumont,  whom  I 
have  had  occasion   to  name  (Earl  of  Warwick) 


^¥ 


.So 


O'fr   the  Atlantic. 


more  than  onto  in  this  jonrnal.  as  one  of  the 
followers  of  Willianj  the  Norman  Conqueror. 
It  has  a  majestic  appearance,  standing  as  it 
does  on  a  higli  hill,  thus  enabling  it  to  be  seen  a 
long  way  off.  It  is  the  property,  like  the  Swan- 
sea castle,  of  the  Duke  of  Beaufort.  The  Mum- 
bles is  noted  for  its  fisheries,  and  tiiere  are  up- 
wards of  4,000  men  employed  in  the  oyster 
fisheries  alone.  Apropos  of  oysters,  the  Mumble 
oysters,  though  reckoned  very  fine,  do  not  come 
up  to  our  Shrewsburj-,  Blue  Point  or  East  river, 
S2rved  up  at  a  Broadway  oyster  saloon  or  in 
Kulton  market.  They  have  quite  a  different 
taste,  a  taste  which  the  New- Yorker  would  cer- 
tainly not  approve  of.  It  is  a  rough  tincture  of 
iron,  and  copperish  taste,  which  can  be  retained  in 
the  mouth  for  an  hour  after  partaking  of  them. 
We  will  now  bid  a  final  adieu  to  our  kind  friend 
and  his  intelligent  family,  and  leave  the  Mumbles 
with  its  gay  visitors,  and  request  you  to  accom- 
pany us  to  I.lanelly 


I 


greati 

here 

eight 

down 

cheer 

it  cai 

town 

thelei 

most 

then, 

haps 

surrc 

colli( 

silvei 

come 

Mucl 

indoi 

Will 

prop 

and  : 


0\r  the  Atliitilh. 


8t 


.  as  one  of  the 
in  Conqueror, 
standing  as   it 

it  to  be  seen  a 
lii<e  tlie  Swan- 
*t.  The  Muni- 
l  tliere  are  up- 

in  the  oyster 
rs,  the  Mumble 
e,  do  not  come 
t  or  East  river, 
r  saloon  or  in 
ite  a  different 
cer  would  cer- 
ugh  tincture  of 
1  be  retained  in 
Evking  of  them. 
)ur  kind  friend 
e  the  Mumbles 
vou  to  acconi- 


I 


LETTER   VIII. 

WALES,    CONTINUED. 

Llanei.i;v. — In  this  town  the  writer  spent  the 
greater  portion  of  his  youthful  days,  and  'twas 
here  he  took  to  himself  that  partner  who,  for 
eighteen  years,  shared  with  him  the  ups  and 
downs  of  life — some  of  which  were  anything  but 
cheering — but  to  the  point.  Llanelly,  although 
it  cannot  boast,  like  some  of  the  neighboring 
towns,  of  much  antiquity,  indeed  none,  is  never- 
theless a  live  town,  and  ranks  as  the  largest  and 
most  flourishing  tftwn  in  the  county  of  Carmar- 
then, and  excepting  Swansea,  Cardiff,  and  per- 
haps Newport,  I  may  say  in  South  Wales.  And 
surroimded  as  it  is  with  numerous  and  extensive 
collieries,  together  with  large  copper,  lead,  tin, 
silver,  iron  and  other  works,  it  bids  fair  to  be- 
come second  to  no  other  town  in  the  principality. 
Much  of  its  prosperity  is  to  be  attributed  to  the 
indomitable  will  and  energy'  of  the  firm  of  Sims. 
Willyams,  Neville,  Druce  &  Co.,  the  wealthy 
proprietors  of  the  very  extensive  copper  smelting 
and  lead  works  located  here,  which,  inclusive  of 


83 


O'er   t/,f  A:l.intk. 


their  collin  k-s.  (not  a  feu)  gives  c.uployn.ent  tu 
many  thousands  of  the  inhabitants.     This  enter- 
priMng  firm  have  1/,k1  one  continual  run  of  ,,ros- 
penty  for  upwards  of  thirty  vears,  thus  enablinjr 
them  to  double,  nav,  treble  their  operations  dur- 
ing  that    time.     The  situation  of  the  harbor  is 
admirably  adapted    for  carrying  on  an  extensive 
commerce,  and  so  soon  as  the  large  floating  dock 
now  .n  c.ntcn.plation  is  completed,  the  facilities 
tor  doing  a  shijjping  t.ade  will  be  verv  much  in- 
creased.    So  far  as  the  town  is  concerned,  I  may 
say  the  same  of  it  as  of  Swans,.,.    Such  has  been 
he  vast  improvements  made  here  during  the  last 
hfteen   years,    that   one   absent   from    the   place 
f^unng   that  period    would  scarcely   know  it - 
Streets  have  been  formed,  houses  and  factories 
erected  where  there  was  nothing  but  green  fields 
and  barren  wastes  a  lew  years  ago.     A  very  fine 
market  place  has  been  recently  erected  on  the 
s.te  formerly  known  as  Chamber's  Park,  and  if 
It  has  any  fault  at  all  it  is  that  of  being  too  lar^e 
J.  e  to  supply   the  wants  of  the  town  and  neigh- 
borhood for  twenty  years  hence.     Market  places 
in  England  and  Wales  are  very  fine  .structure', 
such  as  I  have  not  seen  elsewhere.     Every  to«n 
of  note  has  its  neatly  erected  market  place,  where 
on  a  certain  day  of  the   week,  are  exposed  fo; 
sale  goods  of  domestic  manufacture,  princ  ipally 
farm  produce,  such  as  grain,  meat,  butter,  cheese, 
':  '  ^^•V^-'^^h  ''^"d  every  department  being  sep- 
arate and  distinct  from  the  other,  and  to  aLm- 


mod 

stall 

exp( 

cons 

whic 

tow< 

ages 

the  1 

of  p 

edb 

buy 

plac 

proj 

whi( 

men 

law: 

bon 

the 

lect 

eacl 

pur 

kee] 

cipfi 

boa 

mat 

faitl 

pav 

the 

T 

bim 

cre( 


\M 


O'er   the  Athuitc. 


83 


j  employment  to 
iits.     This  enter- 
iiial  run  of  pros- 
s,  thus  enablinjr 
operations  cliir- 
)f"  the  liarbor  is 
on  an  extensive 
ge  floating  dock 
ed,  the  facilities 
e  very  much  in- 
anccrned,  I  may 
Such  has  been 
;  during  tlic  last 
from    the   place 
cly   know  it. — 
s  and  factories 
but  green  fields 
o.     A  ver}'  fine 
erected  on  the 
r's  Park,  and  if 
Jeing  too  large. 
>\vn  and  neigh- 
Market  places 
fine  structures, 
.     Every  town 
L*t  place,  where, 
re  exposed  for 
ire,  princ  ipally 
butter,  cheese, 
lent  being  sep- 
and  to  accom- 


modate   which,   neat    and    \dmirably    arranged 
stalls,  covered  in,  are  erected  for  the  purpose  of 
exposing  such  articles  for  sale,  which  stalls  are 
constructed  to  form  a  square,  in   tlie  centre  of 
which  is  the  market-keeper's  dwelling  and 
\      tower,  erected  of  hewn  stone,   as  if  to  l.i         »t 
ages   untold,   with   wide  entrance  gates, 
the  market,  when  not  in  use,  ceases  to  be  a 
of  public  thoroughfare,  and  they  are  well  atu  ... 
ed  by  high  and  low,  rich  and  poor,  who  sell  and 
buy  fairly  and  honestly.     The  Llanelly  market- 
place, as  in  fact  all  others  generally  are,  is  the 
property  of  the  I.lanelly  local  board  of  health, 
which   is   simply  the  people,  an   institution   of 
men  chosen  by  the  inhabitants  to  administer  the 
laws  and  regulations  for  the  government  of  tbe 
borough.     Shrewd  business  men,  elected  to  hold 
the  office  for  honor  and  not  for  pay,  a  toll  is  col- 
lected of  the  various  holders  of  market  stalls  on 
each  market  day  by  a  collector  appointed  for  the 
purpose,  who   is  also   in   some  towns,   market 
keeper,  which  money,  like  rates  and  other  muni- 
cipal taxes,  is  deposited  with  the  treasurer  of  the 
board  to  be  used  for  no  other  purpose  than   for 
matters    connected    with    the    borough.      How 
faithfully  those  monies  are  expended   the  well 
paved,   clean   streets,  and  sanitary  condition  of 
the  towns  plainly  answer,  Honestly ! 

The  Atheneum  and  Neville  memorial  com- 
bined, is  a  noble  building,  and  exteriorly  does 
credit  to  the  architect  and  builder;  but  I  cannot 


'3|>=-^5^Sr«!'''°^^«J-^,i'!t' 


84 


O'er   thf  AtliUilic. 


say  as  much  of  the  interior,  a  rather  botched  up 
arrangement,   to   my    idea,   being   not    what   it 
should,  and  could  be,  had  the  controlling  powers 
desired  it;  the  Neville  memorial  recently  added 
to  the  Atheneum,  (additional  rooms,^  used  for  .- 
museum,  &c.,  and  a  square  tower,  built  of  native 
stone  in  rock  work,  dedicated  to  the  memory  of 
Richard  Janion  Neville,  Esq.,  late  the  managintr 
partner  of  S.  VV.    N.  D.   &   Co.,   to  whom  the 
inhabitants  of  Llanelly  owe  much  for  their  com- 
mercial, intellectual  and  moral  prosperity.     We 
will  say  no  more  of  this  town,  but  bid  it  and  the 
remainder  of  old   friends  and   acquaintances  a 
long  farewell,   perhaps   forever;  for  how   very 
many,  did  I   find  upon  my  advent  among  them, 
had  gone  to  "that  bourne  from  which  no  traveler 
returns."     How  forcibly  do  the  words  occur  to 
me,  that  "in  the  midst  of  life  we  are  in  death-" 
for  i,ome  very  dear  old  friends   had,  but  a  few- 
days  prior  to  our  arrival,  paid  their  last  tribute 
on  earth.     We  are  but  sojourners,  here  to-day  and 
gone  to-morrow,  and  as  time  is  precious,  we  will 
bid  adieu  once  more  to  the  living  of  LlancUv 
wishing  them  all  the  health,  prosperity  and  hap- 
piness this  old    world   can  afford,  and  passing 
through  Burry  P,.rt  and  Pen,brev,thriving  places 
land  ourselves  in  the  ancient  town  of 

KiDWELLv.-This  old  fashioned  place,  although 
small,  IS  one  of  the  t,.wns  of  former  days,  those 
days  when  Llanf  ily  and  other  growing  towns 
were  nowhere,     h  is  a  market  town  and  under 


'i^aJ&'lli'K'iS&aaaaiMiiwutwM 


tlicr  botched  up 
ng   not    what   it 
iitrolling  powers 
1  re(X'ntly  added 
oms,)  used  for  ."•, 
•,  built  of  native 
3  the  memory  of 
te  the  managing 
■,   to   whom  tlie 
h  for  their  coni- 
irosperity.     We 
It  bid  it  and  the 
icquaintances  a 

for  how  very 
It  among  tliem, 
lich  no  traveler 
words  occur  to 

are  in  death;" 
had,  but  a  few 
Bir  last  tribute 
fiere  to-day  and 
ecious,  we  will 
g  of  Llanclly, 
erity  and  Jiap- 
I,  «ind  passing 
hriving  places, 

of 

)lace,  although 
er  days,  those 
rowing  towns 
vn  and  under 


i 


SSSfflRSSS^fcwFSES^S^^gl^SfS*^^,^^^^^*;' 


^ 


0S>      ^a: 


^     ^    %^ 


t 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


!!l  1^   111112.0 


2.2 


1.8 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


125  ' 

m  1 

=y= 

m 

* 

.4 6"     — 

► 

«' 


4» 


v 


V 


<^ 


VV  o 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)872-4503 


r 


ifi 


^4^ 


iV 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICIVIH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  liistoriques 


imim 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


8S 


the  provisions  of  its  charter,  has  its  mayor  and 
subordinate  officers,  like  those  of  the  city  of 
London,  who  meet  upon  certain  occasions  clothed 
in  scarlet  robes  of  office,  amid  much  pomp  and 
ceremony.  Old  Kidwelly,  or  Cathivelti,  was  for- 
merly surrounded  by  walls  with  three  or  more 
B  gates,  one  of  which,  together  with  many  of  the 
old  houses,  are  yet  standing,  defying  time  and 
weather.  It  is  not  a  place  of  much  trade,  a  small 
tin  works  being  the  only  works  of  any  note 
in  operation  at  present ;  perhaps  there  are  not 
1,500  inhabitants  in  the  place,  and  if  it  was  not 
for  the  grand  and  extensive  old  castle,  ranking 
as  one  of  the  finest  in  Wales,  the  place  would 
scarcely  be  worth  visiting. 

The  castle  stands  on  a  rocky  eminence  over- 
looking the  town,  and  the  river  Gwendraeth,  and 
was  built  by  one  of  the  Beaumonts,  so  popular 
after  the  Conquest;  it  is  now  a  large  and  impos- 
ing ruin  in  tolerable  preservation,  with  some  of 
its  apartments  entire,  and  flights  of  steps  not 
very  much  injured.  The  west  gateway  is  a  noble 
specimen  of  architecture,  and  some  of  the  towers 
at  the  angles  retain  their  arched  roofs  of  stone. 
From  the  battlements  a  good  view  may  be  had 
of  Carmarthen  bay  and  the  country  around. — 
There  is  also  an  ancient  church  here  fast  falling 
to  decay,  and  not  far  from  it  the  ruins  of  an  old 
priory  of  great  age.  From  Kidwelly  we  went  to 
a  pretty  little  place  called  Ferryside,  very  much 
frequented  by  persons  desirous  of  good  sea  bath- 


86 


0\r  the  Atlantic. 


ing.  Here  we  spent  a  pleasant  day  or  two,  and 
enjoyed  ourselves  very  much,  for  the  fare  at  the 
White  Lion  hotel  is  not  to  be  sneezed  at.  Direct- 
ly opposite  Ferryside  is  another  pretty  watering 
place  called  Llanstephan ;  both  places  are  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Towcy. 

Li.ANSTEPHAN,— i.  e.  St.  Stephen's  Church,  has 
a  sainted  well  formerly  in  high  repute,  but  is  so 
noticed,  chiefly  on  account   of  the  picturesque 
and  venerable  ruins  of  its  once  very  fine  castle. 
Crowning  the  summit  of  a  bold  hill,  the  base  of 
which  is  washed  by  the  tidal  waves,  stands  this 
majestic  old  ruin,  its  walls  hoary  with  age.     It 
Avas  formerly  surrounded  with  earthen  ramparts, 
was  built  by  Uchtryd,  Prince  of  Meirion  in  1138, 
but  it   soon  fell  into  the  hands  of  the  Normans 
apd    Flemings.     From    them  it    was  taken    by 
Gruffydd  ap  Rees,  Prince  of  South  Wales,  and 
from  whom  the  foreigners  were  totally   unable 
to   recover  it.     In  the  neighborhood,  and  over- 
looking the  river,  is   the  elegant  mansion  of  one 
Sir  James  Hamilton.     While  here  we  were  not  a 
little  amused  with  the  freaks  and  antics  of  a  score 
of   donkeys    and    their    drivers.     The    females 
dressed  in  the  primitive  style  of  Welsh  costume, 
which  is  simply  flannel  of  domestic  manufacture, 
wove  in   a  vari        of  patterns,   that  of  the  red,' 
white  and  >-.  stripe  on   bhie  background 

being  the  most  ..sed.  The  dress  is  made  quite 
short,  showing  off  a  neat,  well-trimmed  ankle, 
and  we'1-made  shoe  and   stocking.        Some  of 


j#^i,«S!SSS6B9l 


0\'r  the  Atlanttc. 


87 


day  or  two,  and 
>r  tlie  fare  at  the 
ezed  at.  Direct- 
pretty  watering 
laces  are  situated 

en's  Church,  has 
repute,  but  is  so 

the  picturesque 
very  fine  castle. 

hill,  the  base  of 
aves,  stands  this 
y  with  age.  It 
irthen  ramparts, 
Meirion  in  1138, 
rf  the  Normans 

was  taken  by 
uth  Wales,  and 

totally  unable 
ood,  and  over- 
mansion  of  one 
:  we  were  not  a 
fintics  of  a  score 
The  females 
Welsh  costume, 
ic  manufacture, 
hat  of  the  red, 
le  background 

is  made  quite 
rimmed  ankle, 
ig.        Some  of 


the  better  class  and  others,  on  tiie  Sabbath  and 
holiday,  wear  lace  caps,  very  nicely  got  up,  and 
on  top  of  the  head  is  a  tall  crowned  silk  beaver 
hat,  Avith  wide  brim,  tapering  slightly  from  the 
lirim  to  the  crown.  The  most  youthful  and  gay 
wear  this  hat  alone,  without  cap,  instead  of 
which  the  hair  is  dressed  similar  in  style  to  that 
adopted  of  late  by  the  American  ladies;  but  the 
Welsh  ladies  don't  wear  the  hat  on  the  forehead, 
but  on  the  head,  nor  do  I  think  that  they  have 
resource  to  artificial  means  to  increase  the  size  of 
— I  forget  what  it  is  called,  let  me  think — well, 
it  is  immaterial,  for  most  of  my  readers  will  un- 
derstand what  I  have  reference  to,  many  will  smile 
at  the  primitive  style  of  dress;  but  let  me  en- 
deavor to  assure  them  that  a  Welsh  Avoman, 
attired  so,  seated  on  horseback  with  a  market 
basket  on  her  lap,  or  walking  with  market  basket 
on  her  head,  well  loadeH,  and  perhaps  an  infant 
in  her"  arms,  with  her  hat  tied  to  the  strings  of 
her  apron,  blooming  with  the  real  color  of 
health,  is  as  pretty,  charming  and  happy  as  the 
gaily  attired  and  fashionable  lady  of  the  season. 

Women  and  children  are  those  generally  engaged 
in  the  gathering  of  cockles  from  the  sands,  where 
they  are  found  in  plenty.  The  cockle  is  a  small 
shell-fish,  similar  in  taste  (but  more  delicate)  to 
the  American  clam.  They  are  found  imbedded* 
some  two  inches  in  the  sand,  their  location  indi- 
cated by  two  small  breathing  holes,  and  in  large 
quantities  in  North  and  South  Wales,  during  the 


88 


0\f  the  Atlantic. 


hours  between  low  water  and  the  coming  in  of 
the  tide,  some  scores  of  women  and  children  are 
daily  engaged  in  this  business,until  their  sacks  and 
basicets  are  filled,  when  they  are  thrown  across 
the  donkey's  back  and  driven  home  to  be  pre- 
pared for  market;  some  unshelled  and  some 
shelled,  are  taken  and  shipped  to  the  larger 
towns  of  the  interior.  Indeed,  I  have  seen  the 
Welsh  cockles  figuring  largely  in  the  markets  of 
Ix)ndon,  Bristol  and  Manchester,  where  they  arc 
considered  an  article  of  luxury.  We  will  now  re- 
trace our  steps  via.  Llanelly,  and  land  ourselves 
in — 

LouGHOR.— Here  the  writer  first  saw  the  light, 
and  got   his  first   scholastic  tiirashing   (not   for 
good   behavior)   from   the  curate  of  the  parish 
church,  who  acted  in  the  capacity  of  schoolmas- 
ter during  the  week  days.     In  the  old  churchyard 
are  interred  the  remains  of  most  cf  his  relatives 
on   his  mcther's   side,   and   the   remains  of  hi,s 
father  and  two  brothers,  so  he  cannot  but  stay  to 
pay  a  passing  tribute  to  the  place  of  his  nativity, 
wliere  lay  all  that  was  once  mcrtal  of  those  so 
nearly  allied  to  him.     Loughor,  or  as  it  is  called 
in  Welsh,   "  Castell  LlwcAwr,"  is  situated   on  the 
bank   of  the  river  Llvvchwr,  which  divides  the 
counties  of  Glanmorgan  and  Carmarthen,and  now 
•spanned  by  two  bridges,  one  for  the  South  Wales 
railway  traffic,  and  the  other  tor  turnpike  traffic. 
Collieries,  copper,  zinc  and  glass  works  are  in 
the  neighborhood,  but  only  the  former  are  in  op- 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


89 


le  coming  in  of 
ind  children  are 
I  their  sacks  and 
thrown  across 
omc  to  be  pre- 
lled  and   some 
to  the   larger 
have  seen  the 
the  markets  of 
where  they  arc 
Ve  will  now  re- 
land  ourselves 

;  saw  the  light, 
ihing   (not   for 
of  the  parish 
of  schoolmas- 
ald  churchyard 
;f  his  relatives 
emains  of  hi,s 
not  but  stay  to 
3f  his  nativity, 
:al  of  those  so 
r  as  it  is  called 
tuated  on  the 
:h  divides  the 
rthen,and  now 
;  South  Wales 
irnpike  traffic, 
works  are  in 
mer  are  in  op- 


eration  at  present.  Indeed  it  has  nothing  but  its 
antiquity  to  recommend  it  to  the  traveler  and 
tourist  at  the  present  time.  Says  the  historian  : 
"  It  is  supposed  to  be  the  Leucarum  of  Antonius, 
and  the  fifth  Roman  station  on  the  road  called 
Julia  Stratta."  A  portion  of  tlie  old  castle,  a 
large  square  building,  situated  on  a  mound,  sur- 
rounded by  a  double  trench  for  defense,  still 
remains.  It  was  built  in  1099,  destroyed  by  the 
sons  of  Gruffydd  ap  Rees  in  1 115,  and  rebuilt  by 
Hugh  le  Despenser  in  the  time  of  Edward  II. 
An  old  house  called  the  Sanctuary,  still  standing, 
formerly  belonged  to  the  Knights  of  Jerusalem. 

The  old  town  had  undergone  but  little  change 
since  my  boyhood's  days.  The  veteran  castle, 
although  hoary  with  age,  and  then,  as  now,  clad 
with  ivy,  a  stale  old  ruin,  appeared  to  have  as 
much  of  it  left  as  when  the  boys  and  girls 
assembled  to  play  hide  and  seek  within  its  walls, 
or  climbed  up  its  lofty  tower  to  get  a  glimpse  of 
the  river  and  the  country  around,  forty  years  ago. 
The  old  parish  church  remained  about  as  it  was 
when  I  attended  church  (much  against  my  incli- 
nation) with  my  dear  old  granny,  and  the  high 
built  pew  which  prevented  me  from  gazing  at 
the  congregation,  with  the  massive  stone  tablet 
secured  to  the  whitewashed  wall  directly  above 
it,  giving  the  dates  of  the  demise  of  some  of  my 
ancestors,  brought  the  past  forcibly  to  my  mind, 
when  I  thought  the  sermon  given  by  the  worthy 
curate  would  never  end,  and  when  nature  had  at 


90 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


last  t(.  give  way  lor  the  lack  of  surncthing  more 
interesting  to  my  young  mind  than  histological 
remarks,  I  begin  to  nod,  and  nod,  nod,  nodding 
lell  tast  asleep,  to  wake  up  with  the  loud  congre- 
gational singing  which  closed  the  morning  ser- 
vice. Ah  !  those  were  happy  days;  never  to  be 
lorgotten  in  this  world! 

Then  the  old   churchyard,  or  burial   ground  • 
yes,    reader,   there    had   a   <:hange    taken    phice 
tliere;  yes,  the  past  thirty  years   had  filled  it,  I 
may  say,  almost   t<.  its  utmost  capacity.     Many 
had  sought   it  as  their  final    resting  place,  and 
scores  of  my  acquaintances  slept  soundly  beneath 
as  green    sward.     The   old  and  the  young  had 
been  called  away.     Some  of  the  former  had  lived 
to  a   ripe  old   age,  and   had  but    recently  bade 
adieu  to  the  living.     It  was  a  sad  sight,  and  I 
could  not  refrain  from  shedding  a  copious  flood 
of  tears  as  I  dimly  gazed  at  the  tombs  and  head- 
stones, surrounded  with  beautiful  flowers,  which 
marked  the  resting  phice  of  many  well-known  to 
me  in  my  yoiuiger  days.     Near  by  laid  the  old 
fisherman  Cadwaladr,  who  carried  me  oftentimes 
on  his  back  across  the  ford  or  into  his  boat,  while 
I  watched  with  wonder  and  admiration  the  large 
hauls  of  fish  he  caught,  and  presented  me  with  one 
to  take  home.     Poor  old  fellow!  he  was  a  kind 
good-hearted  old  man.     Before  leaving  that  hal- 
lowed and  venerable  spot,  with  its  tombstones 
dating  centuries  back,  and  now  crumbling  to  de- 
cay, I  purchased,  and  had  the  pleasure  to  super- 


suinctliing  more 
than  his  logica' 
xl,  nod,  nodding, 
the  loud  congrc- 
the  morning  scr- 
ays ;  never  to  be 

burial  ground ; 
ge  taken  phue 
>  had  filled  it,  I 
capacity.  Many 
sting  place,  and 
soundly  beneatli 

the  young  Iiad 
■"ornier  had  lived 
t  recently  bade 
ad  sight,  and  I 
a  copious  flood 
ombs  and  head- 
1  flowers,  whicli 
■  well-known  to 
by  laid  the  old 
I  me  oftentimes 

his  boat,  while 
ration  the  large 
ed  me  with  one 
he  was  a  kind, 
aving  that  hal- 
its  tombstones 
umbling  to  de- 
isure  to  super- 


O'cr  (hf  Atlantie. 


91 


intend  the  erection  of  a  head  stone  at  the  head 
of  my  brother's  grave.  He  sleeps  well  by  the 
side  of  my  father  and  infant  brother,  while  my 
njother  lies  among  strangers,  thousands  of  miles 
apart;  but  I  added  her  dear  name  also  to  those 
which  lie  separated  in  the  flesh,  in  the  old  cluirch- 
vard  at  Loughor,  but  not  in  the  spirit. 

What  more  can  I  tell  my  readers  of  the  place 
of  my  nativity  that  would  be  interesting?  Yes, 
I  can  tell  them  that  I  visited  the  house  where  I 
first  saw  the  light,  and  wherein  I  spent  the  hap- 
piest days  of  my  life,  visited  some  of  my  relatives* 
resident  there,  and  I  saw  and  conversed  with 
many  I  knew,  who  ga/ed  with  wonder,  and  in- 
deed, I  may  say,  admiration  at  my  portly  figure, 
wondered  if  I  was  not  deceiving  them,  and 
seemed  surprised  to  see  in  the  gray  haired  man, 
the  bov  of  fourteen,  so  familiar  to  their  recollec- 
tion. Said  one  old  lady,  who  kept  a  small  store 
wherein  she  weighed  and  sold  sugar  by  the  qtiarter 
pound,  tea  by  the  quarter  ounce,  aud  tallow  candles 
by  the  twelfth  of  a  dozen.     "  Dear  me!  indeed  £o 

goodness!   are  you    W W ?     And   they 

tell  me  you  can  spake  Welsh  as  good  as  when  a 

boy."     "Yes,  auntie  B h,"  said  I,  "I  am  he, 

and  can  speak  Welsh,  to  forget  my  native  tongijc 
Avould  be  to  me  blaspheniy ;  and  he  that  could, 
it  had  been   better  he  never  were  born."     Said 

*  There  were  but  two  sisters  of  my  mother  (two  elderly 
ladies)  living,  of  my  grandfather's  family,  but  there  are 
qi'ile  a  number  of  cousins. 


9* 


OW  the  Atlantic. 


the  old  lady,  "well,  well  I  wc  have  had  several 
voiing  men  leave  here  for  a  few  years  only,  and 
rome  back  with  nothing  but  Sasnts^  (English).' 
"  It   is  all  nonsense,  auntie,"  said  I ;  "no  person 
I    well     versed   in    the   mother    tongue   tan    for- 
get it.     Those  persons  you  allude  to,  I  suppose, 
sought  to  impress  you  and  others  that  the  pecu- 
liarity of  the  atmosphere  abroad,  deprived  them  of 
the  language  in  which  they  first  lisped  the  word 
mother,  or  else  they  thought  it   degrading  to  a 
man  who  had  visited  foreign  climes,  to  speak  his 
^    native  tongue;   how   foolish,   how  absurd,   is   it 
not.v    "Yes,  indeed,"  she  replied.     The  old  lady 
closed  the  conversation  by   remarking  that  "she 
had  always  protested  it  was  pride,  that  the  igno- 
rant fellows  supposed  they   were   raising  them- 
selves in    the  estimation   of  their  neighbors  by 
l^retending  that  they  could  not  hold  converse  in 
Cymraig  (Welsh),  and  that  even  their  English  was 
none  of  the  best;  quite  the  reverse."  I  remarked, 
"rather  say  they  lowered  themselves  in  the  esti- 
mation of  every  person  of  good  common  sense." 
We  will  now  take  the  Llanelly  and  Llandilo 
railway,  now  connected  with  the  Vale  of  Towy 
railway,   and   proceed  into  the  interior  of  the 
county  of  Carmarthen,  and  as^  we  steam  along, 
take  a  passing  glimpse  of  Castell  Carreg-Cennen 
(Cennen  Stone  Castle),  erected  on  the  summit  of 
a  bold  rock  450  feet  high,  about  A.  D.  1200.     It 
was  a  fortress  of  some  note  about  the  years  1248 
and  1250,  when  it  was  taken  and  retaken  from 


O'er  thf  Atlantic. 


n 


have  had  several 
V  years  only,  and 
(vsnef;  (English).  " 
id  I ;  "no  person 
ongue  can  for- 
de  to,  I  suppose, 
rs  that  the  pecu- 
deprived  them  of 

lisped  the  word 

degrading  to  a 
ney,  to  speak  his 
iw  absurd,   is   it 
i.     The  old  lady 
irking  that  "she 
e,  that  the  igno- 
e   raising  them- 
ir  neighbors  by 
lold  converse  in 
leir  English  was 
ic."  I  remarked, 
:lVes  in  the  esti- 
:ommon  sense." 
y  and  Llandilo 
:  Vale  of  Towv 
interior  of  the 
i^e  steam  along, 
Carreg-Cennen 

the  summit  of 
A.  D.  1 200.     It 

the  years  1248 
I  retaken  from 


the   English   by    Rees  ap    Fychan,  a   renowned 
Welsh  Warrior. 

Li.andilo-Fawk,  or  Great  Llandilo,  so  called 
to  distinguish  it  from  other  places  of  the  same 
name  in  Wales.  St.  Teilo,  to  whom  the  parish 
is  dedicated,  is  coupled  with  Dewi  (or  David) 
and  Padarn  (or  Badam)  in  the  Welsh  Triads,  as 
the  "three  holy  visitors  to  Britain."  The  old 
fortress,  called  Strah-Towy  castle,  surrendered 
to  the  English  in  1277,  and  was  destroyed  by 
them,  but  there  still  remains  an  old  relic  of  the 
past  in  the  classical  old  ruin  of  Dyiievor  castle, 
the  property  of  the  Rt.  Hon.  Lord  Dynevor,  wIkj 
has  a  beautiful  mansion  in  the  vicinity,  the  old  cas- 
tle forming  part  of  the  grounds.*  Camden  calls  it 
"a  princely  castle  belonging  to  the  princes  of  South 
Wales  while  they  flourished."  It  was  first  built 
by  Rhys  ap  Theodore,  in  the  days  of  the  Con- 
queror, and  demolished  in  1194  in  one  of  the 
feudal  wars  of  that  period,  but  in  1257  it  was 
rebuilt,  and  again  in  the  possession  of  the  Rhys 
family,  under  whom  it  stood  a  noted  seige  against 
the  English  until  retaken  by  Llewelyn  ap  Gruf- 
fydd,  and  it  continued  to  remain  as  a  formidable 
fortress  until  the  civil  war  of  Charles  I,  when  it 
was  dismantled.  The  present  proprietor,  Lord 
Dynevor,  whose  family  name  is  Rice,  is  a  lineal 
descendant  of  Rhys  ap  Thomas,  the  owner  and 
occupant  of  the  castle  in  Henry  the  VII's  reign. 

•The  first  castle  was  built  bj-  Roderic  Maw,  in  877, 


94 


O'er  the  AtUintic. 


In  iind  amiiiid  Llandilo  tlic  country  and  scen- 
ery arc  very  fine,  and  its  agricultural  resources 
are  vciy   great,  and   besides  Newton    Park  (the 
Dyncvdi-   mansion)  there  are  several   other  fine 
mansions  in  the  neighborhood,  for  instance,  Ta- 
liaris,  the  residence  of  William  Peel,  PNq.  (cousin 
to  the  late  Robert  Peel) ;  Riiyd  Odin  or  Edwins- 
ford,  the  residence  of  Sir  James  Hamlin  Williams ; 
(Jolden  Clrove,  the   residence  of  the   Rt.    Hon. 
Karl  of  Cawdor,  and  others  of  more  or  less  note. 
.Near  Edwinsford  are  the  ruins  of  Talley  Abbey, 
founded    in    1180    by    Rhys,   son   of   Gruffydd, 
Prince  of  Wales.     This  abbey  was  surprised  by 
that  monster,  Henry  VHT,  who  gave  its  revenues 
to  the  family   of  Albemarles,  and   on    Pantglas 
estate,  the  residcnee  of  David  Jones,  Esq.,  M.  P., 
arc  two  ancient  encampments,  one  no   doubt  of 
Roman   origin,   for   several    portions  of  armor, 
hilts  of  swords,  and  other  instruments  of  war, 
(mostly   of    Roman    manufacture)   and    Roman 
coins  have  been  dug  up  from  time  to  time,  thus 
establishing  the  fact  of  their  having  been  at  one 
time  a  Roman  encampment  there.     Before  bid- 
ding adieu  to  Llandilo  we  may  here  remark  that 
the  last  and  decisive  battle  between   the  Welsh 
and  English  was  fought  near  by  in   1252,  when 
the  forces  of  Edward  I  (superior  in  number)  were 
victorious   over   those  of    l.lewelen,    Prince  of 
Wales,  who  was  shamefully  betrayed  and  slain. 
This  terrible   battle*   put   an  end   to  the  Welsh 

*Tlic  British  loss  of  life   was    immense   to   achieve  the 
victory. 


Strug 
since 
Engl 

Ca 
( oiin 
gard( 
\Val( 
the  n 
and  i 
consi 
of  tir 
Salm 
also. 

Fn 
had  t 
sight 
surro 
of  w 
Cotir 
ciewt 

Ca 
carli( 
of  ni 
theg 
rebui 

It 
Merh 
the  n 
is  sup 
tin's  I 
of  \\\\ 


(umtry  and  scen- 
iilturul  resources 
swton    Piirk  (the 
L'veral   other  fine 
for  instance,  Ta- 
'eel.  F'"sq.  (cousin 
Odin  or  Edwins- 
lamiin  Williams; 
)f  the   Rt.    Hon. 
iiore  or  less  note, 
jf  Talley  Abbey, 
)n   of   Gruffydd, 
rt'as  surprised  by 
gave  its  revenues 
nd   on    Pantglas 
mes,  Esq.,  M.  P., 
)ne  no   doubt  of 
rtions  of  armor, 
ruments  f>f  war, 
re)   and    Roman 
ime  to  time,  thus 
ring  been  at  one 
:re.     Before  bid- 
liere  remark  that 
.veen   the  Welsh 
y  in   1252,  when 
in  number)  were 
•elen.    Prince  of 
rayed  and  slain, 
id   to  the  Welsh 

nsc   to   achieve  the 


O'tr  the  AtUvitii-. 


95 


strtiggle  for  indopendancc,  and  Wales  has  ever' 
since  been,  as  she  ever  will  he,  stibject  to  the 
English  crown.     We  next  proceeded  to — 

CARMAKTitiN. — It  is  tlic  sliire  town  <jf  the 
(ounty  (Carmarthenshire),  and  has  long  been  re- 
ijarded  as  the  Capital  of  the  southern  division  of 
Wales.  (B.  G.)  It  is  charmingly  situated  on 
tiie  north-west  bank  of  the  beautiful  river  Towy, 
and  is  a  place  of  some  importance,  there  being  a 
considerable  trade  carried  on  in  the  manufacture 
of  tin,  lead,  castings  and  other  branches  of  trade. 
Salmon  and  sewin  fishing  is  quite  a  businesis 
also. 

From  the  Parade  ground  a  dclightfid  view  is 
had  of  the  valley  of  the  Tcnvy,  a  most  picturesque 
sight,  and  like  all  other  old  towns  of  note,  it  was 
surrounded  by  a  high  wall  with  fortified  gates, 
of  which  there  is  but  little  trace  now — while  the 
County  prison  occupies  the  site  of  its  once  an- 
cient and  princely  castle. 

Carmarthen  is  of  liigh  antiquity,  for  in  the 
earliest  British  annals  it  is  spoken  of  as  a  town 
of  much  importance.  In  1137  it  was  burned  to 
the  ground  by  Owain  (rwynedd,  and  afterwards 
rebuilt  by  Gilbert,  Earl  of  Clare. 

It  was  here  that  the  renowned  Welsh  prophet 
Merlin  was  born  in  the  fifth  century,  and  in 
the  neighborhood  is  Merlin's  Cave,  wherein  he 
i  s  supposed  to  have  resided .  Caer-Merddiii,  or  Mer- 
lin's touni,  was  supposed  to  be  its  original  name, 
of  which  Carniartfien  is  a  corruption.     It  also  can 


96 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


boast  of  having  been  the  birth-place  of  two  re- 
nowned soldiers,  viz  :  Gen.  Sir  Thomas  Picton 
and  Gen.  Sir  William  Nott.  The  former  was 
killed  at  Waterloo,  and  the  latter,  after  gaining 
honor  and  renown  in  India,  returned  home  to 
die  shortly  after  his  arrival.  There  are  two  fine 
monuments  erected  in  conspicuous  places  in  the 
town  in  commemoration  of  the  distinguished  ser- 
vices of  both  these  heroes. 

Among  the  public  buildings  worthy  of  note  I 
may  name  a  very  spacious  Market-house,  the 
Barracks,  the  Town  Hall,  adorned  with  Ionic 
columns,  the  County  Jail,  the  Poor  House,  a  free 
CJrammar  School,  founded  by  a  Dr.  Owen,  and 
a  model  school,  all  of  which,  I  may  say,  are  or- 
naments to  the  town. 

St.  Peter's  church  is  a  large  plain  building, 
with  a  loft;  square  tower,  in  which  are  hung  an 
excellent  peal  of  bells,  and  the  church  contains 
several  remarkable  monuments  of  antique  date ; 
there  are  also  numerous  dissenting  chapels, 
some  of  which  have  very  large  congregations, 
and  a  Presbyterian  college  for  the  education  of 
ministers. 

The  inhabitants  of  Carmarthen,  known  in  the 
county  as  "  St.  Peter's  boys  and  girls,"  are  re- 
markable for  the  purity  of  their  English.  They 
not  only  speak  the  language  very  correctly,  but 
with  an  accent  only  peculiar  to  themselves. 

It  was  my  intention  to  proceed  beyond  this 
point  to  visit   Tenby,  Haverfordwest,  Pembroke 


fC. 

1-place  of  two  re- 
r  Thomas  Picton 
The  former  was 
ter,  after  gaining 
Bturned  home  to 
rhere  are  two  fine 
lous  places  in  the 
distinguished  st-r- 

worthy  of  note  I 
Market-house,  the 
>rned  with  Ionic 
oor  House,  a  free 
a  Dr.  Owen,  and 
may   say,  are  or- 

;  plain  building, 
liich  are  hung  an 
:  church  contains 
of  antique  date ; 
senting  chapels, 
je  congregations, 
the  education  of 

5n,  known  in  the 
id  girls,"  are  re- 
•  English.  They 
ry  correctly,  but 
leniselves. 
eed  beyond  this 
iwest,  Pembroke 


O'er  the  ^i/lanlk. 


97 


and  Aberystvvith,  the  former  two  places  celebrat- 
ed for  good  sea  bathing,  all  very  remarkable  and 
pretty  places,  and  with  a  history  scarcely  second 
to  any  other  towns  in  Wales  ;  but,  as  "time  was 
on  the  ioiiig.i"  we  had  to  forego  that  pleasure  and 
proceed  in  an  opposite  direction,  so  as  to  reach 
Llandovery  to  visit  a  relative,  who  is  the  propri- 
etor of  a  Chemical  Works  in  that  neighborhood. 


M,  I 


9« 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


LETTER  IX. 

WALES,  CONTINUED. 

Llandovery,— In  ancient  times  called  Llan- 
ymddyfrwy,  is  a  small  market  town  of  about 
2,000  inhabitants.  All  that  remains  of  its  once 
fine  old  castle  is  the  keep,  which  consists  of  a 
circular  tower  on  the  summit  of  a  mound,  and  a 
few  pieces  of  old  ruined  walls.  The  history  of 
this  castle,  which  we  will  give  but  briefly,  is 
nevertheless  interesting.  Howell  ap  Rhys  took 
it  by  storm  in  940.  It  afterwards  fell  into  the 
hands  of  the  English,  and  was  subsequently 
taken  and  retaken  until  the  time  of  Edward  I, 
since  which  time  it  has  been  a  ruin. 

One  of  the  greatest  additions  to  Llandovery 
which  has  been  made  of  late  years,  is  the  build- 
ing and  establishing  of  a  public  school  upon  a 
large  scale,  called  the  Welsh  Collegiate  Institu- 
tion, founded  by  Thomas  Phillips,  Esq.,  for  the 
encouragement  of  native  talent.  The  building  is 
not  only  commodious  but  very  handsome,  and 
we  are  informed  is  a  perfect  sticcess  in  every 
respect. 


Llai 
borhoi 
pccial 
fine;  I 
the  ba 
anglei 

The 
passin 
vated 
his  rei 

Caj 
place, 
we  ha 
its  bei 
South 
where 
(i.  e., 
morga 
surroi 
trance 
statel) 
on  th< 
dencc 
Robit 
conqu 
order 
I,  whc 
In  164 
ly  bes 
Crom 
posse! 


0. 

les  called  Llan- 

town   of  about 

ains  of  its  once 

ch  consists   of  a 

a  mound,  and  a 

The  history  of 

e  but  briefly,   is 

11  ap  Rhys  took 

■ds  fell  into  the 

IS    subsequently 

e  of  Edward  I, 

lin. 

to   Llandovery 

irs,  is  the  build- 

:  school  upon  a 

tUegiate  Institu- 

ps,  Esq.,  for  the 

The  building  is 

handsome,  and 

iccess  in   every 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


99 


Llandovery  is  situated  in  a  delightful  neigh 
borhood,  celebrated  for  its  farm  productions,  es- 
pecially that  of  butter,  which  is  generally  very 
fine;  fine  trout  abound  in  the  rivers  and  streams, 
the  banks  of  which  are  much  frequented  by  the 
angler. 

The  writer  will  now  have  to  make  a  long  leap 
passing  through  a  picturesque  and   W'll   culti- 
vated country  and  enterprising  towns,  uid  land 
his  readers  in — 

Cardiff. — A  few  passing  remarks  ai)out  this 
place,  as  we  travel  along,  will  render  the  route 
we  have  taken  the  more  interesting.  As'de  from 
its  being  the  most  important  commercial  lown  in 
South  Wales,  it  is  celebrated  as  being  the  place 
where  Jestyn  ap  Gwrgan,  Lord  of  Morgan  wg, 
(i.  e.,  Jestyn  the  son  of  Gwrgan,  Lord  of  Gla- 
morgan) built  for  himself  a  strong  fortified  castle, 
surrounded  with  embattled  walls,  with  five  en- 
trance gates.  This  castle  was  a  spacious  and 
stately  edifice,  and  was  called  Caerdaff  (fortress 
on  the  Taff),  hence  Cardiff ;  it  became  the  resi- 
dence of  princes.  It  was  in  this  castle  that 
Robirt,  Duke  of  Normandy,  eldest  son  of  the 
conqueror,  was  confined  for  twenty-six  years,  by 
order  of  his  brother  William  Rufus,  and  Henry 
I,  who  were  jealous  of  his  power  and  influence 
In  1648,  when  garrisoned  by  Royalists,it  was  close- 
ly besieged  for  three  days  by  the  troops  of  Oliver 
Cromwell,  who  commanded  in  person,  when 
possession  was  obtained  through  the  treachery 


foe 


Cer  the  Atlantic. 


of  a  deserter  from  the  garrison,  who  Cromwell, 
after  having  entered  the  castle,  caused  to  be 
hung,  as  a  warning  to  his  own  troops,  thus 
paying  the  traitor  in  his  own  coin.  Nearly  the 
whole  of  this  very  ancient  building  has  given 
place  to  the  now  more  modern  mansion  of  the 
Marquis  of  Bute,  to  whose  father  (now  deceased) 
the  flourishing  town  of  Cardiff  owes  much  for  its 
prosperity,  the  marquis,  during  his  life  time, 
having  laid  out  probably  half  a  million  pounds 
sterling  in  the  building  of  docks,  warehouses 
and  other  conveniences  incidental  to  a  first  class 
seaport.  The  present  marquis  is  about  tAventy 
years  of  age,  and  resides  at  the  castle  with  the 
dowager  marquise,  his  mother,  and  it  is  said, 
will,  on  his  coming  of  age,  carry  out  further  im- 
provements projected  by  his  late  father. 

Nkwport. — At  this  place  wc  stayed  but  a  very 
sliort  time,  to  call  upon  an  old  acquaintance,  but 
who  unfortunately  was  not  at  home.  After 
hastily  penning  him  a  few  lines  to  come  and  see 
us  at  Chepstow,  we  proceeded  to  take  a  hasty 
survey  of  the  town  and  its  castle,  both  of  which 
are  situated  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Usk,  the 
latter  on  a  steep  precipice  overlooking  the  river. 

Newport,  or  Casnnvydd^  as  it  is  called  by  the 
Welsh,  for  the  last  thirty  years  has  been  continu- 
ally improving,  commercially  and  otherwise, 
until  it  has  become  a  shipping  port  of  much  im- 
portance ;  the  extensive  floating  dock  constructed 
here  for  the  accommodation  of  shipping  of  imr 


mense 
iible  pc 
of  vess 
jacent, 
mincra 
ore,  w 
varioui 
rail,  fn 
wise, 
gas  pu 
parts  ( 
ports. 

It  V 
the  coi 
that  ve 
by  fon 
is  too  ■ 

The 
the  raj 
cial  ti 
antiqu 
and  th 
convei 
sions, 
lover 
Caerlh 
time  fi 
than  I 
to  be 
amonf 
reside 


,  who  Cromwell, 
e,  caused  to  be 
\vn  troops,  thus 
oin.  Nearly  the 
ilding  has  given 
I  mansion  of  the 
r  (now  deceased) 
>wes  much  for  its 
g  his  life  time, 
1  million  pounds 
>cks,  warehouses 
al  to  a  first  class 
is  about  twenty 
;  castle  with  the 
,  and  it  is  said, 
'  out  further  im- 
:  father. 

tayed  but  a  very 
cquaintance,  but 
It  home.  After 
to  come  and  sec 
to  take  a  hast}* 
e,  both  of  which 
e  river  Usk,  the 
loking  the  river. 
is  called  by  the 
3.S  been  continu- 
and  otherwise, 
ort  of -much  im- 
iock  constructed 
shipping  of  imr 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


loX 


mense  tonnage,  renders  it  one  of  tlic  most  desir- 
able ports  in  Britain  for  loading  and  unloading 
of  vessels,  and  in  the  mountainous  districts  ad- 
jacent, are  some  of  the  finest  and  most  extensive 
mineral  beds  in  the  world,  one  of  which  is  iron 
ore,  which,  when  manufactured  into  iron  at 
various  places,  is  then  sent  on  to  this  port  by 
rail,  from  whence  it  is  shipped  foreign  and  coast- 
wise. Immense  quantities  of  coal  for  steam  and 
gas  purposes  are  also  shipped  from  here  to  all 
parts  of  the  United  Kingdom  and  to  foreign 
ports. 

It  was  at  Newport  that  tl)e  chartists  under 
the  command  of  the  Dowhead,  John  Frost,  made 
that  very  feeble  and  futile  effort  to  gain  reform 
by  force  of  arms,  the  result  of  which  crazy  move 
is  too  well  known. 

The  place  derives  its  interest  principally  from 
the  rapid  growth  and  prosperity  of  its  commer- 
cial transactions;  but  it  has  some  claim  to 
antiquity  also,  for  it  was  founded  by  the  Romans, 
and  the  remains  of  an  ancient  castle,  now  partly 
converted  into  a  brewery  of  no  mean  preten- 
sions, are  still  there  to  gratify  the  eye  of  the 
lover  of  antiquities.  The  ancitiit  towns  of 
Caerlleon  and  Usk  are  not  many  miles  off,  at  one 
time  far  more  important  stations  to  the  Romans 
than  Newport  was,  and  in  the  neighborhood  are 
to  be  seen  some  very  magnificent  mansions, 
among  which  I  may  name  Tredegar  Park,  the 
residence  of  Lord  Tredegar,  Abercarn  House,  the 


»'■ 


tba 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


residence  of  Lord  Llanover  and  Llanwern,  the 
residence  of  the  Rev.  Sir  J.  C.  Salsbury.  We 
will  now  bid  Casnewydd  adieu,  and  go  to— 

Chepstow.— Here  we  will  remain  for  several 
days  witii  a  relative,  who  resides  here,  so  as  to 
enable  us  to  visit  such  places  as  are  said  to  be 
very  interesting  to  travelers  and  tourists  gen- 
erally. 

First  of  all  we  will  speak  of  the  town,  a  quiet, 
delightful  and  picturesque  retreat  on  the  right 
banks  of  the  river  Wye,  which  is  tlie  boundary 
line  between  the  counties  of  Monmouth  and 
Gloucester,  but  at  present  its  commercial  tranr- 
actions  are  but  very  slim  indeed. 

During  the  time  that  the  Saxons  held  posscr- 
sion  of  Chepstow,  it  was  called  Chepestowe,  from 
the  Saxon  word  chepe,  for  market,  and  the  word 
stowcy  for  town,  meaning  market  town ;  and  at 
the  time  that  Harold  was  elevated  to  the  throne, 
on  the  death  of  his  brother-in-law,  Edward  the 
confessor,  CJiepestowe  was  held  by  the  Saxon 
Earl,  Hugh  Bassett,  but  at  the  conquest  (rio6)  he 
was  displaced,  and  the  conqueror  gave  all  the 
lands  to  his  own  countrymen.  Hugh  then 
became  an  attached  refugee  to  the  court  of 
Rhys  ap  Teivdwr,  Prince  of  South  Wales,  and 
was  slain  with  that  Prince  in  the  contest  with 
Robert  Fitzhamon  on  Mynydd  Du  (Black  Moun- 
tain(,  in  the  year  1090.  The  next  possessor  of 
Chepstow  was  William  Fitzosborn,  a  relative  of 
the  conqueror,  who  was  created  Earl  of  Here- 


lord,  a 
He  W£ 
was  a1 
nient 
Fitzge 
Walte 
Clare, 
(surna 
was  E 
He  di( 
formei 
but  d 
rhang 
becam 
II  gai 
Thom 
the  W 
throu^ 
now  tl 
Duke 
The 
specin 
precip 
posed 
apartr 
entran 
rjund 
captiv 
as  the 
specia 
for  tw 


Llanwern,  the 
Salsbury.     We 
id  go  to— 
lain  for  several 

here,  so  as  to 
5  are  said  to  be 
d  tourists  gen- 

c  town,  a  quiet, 
It  on  the  right 
s  tlie  boundary 
'Ion mouth  and 
nmercial  tranr- 

ns  held  posscr- 
epcstowe,  from 

and  the  word 
town  ;  and  at 
1  to  the  throne, 
w,  Edward  the 
by  the  Saxon 
quest  (rio6)  he 
r  gave  all  the 
Hugh   then 

the  court  of 
ith  Wales,  and 
c  contest  with 
(Black  Moun- 
t  possessor  of 
I,  a  relative  of 
Earl  of  Here- 


O'ff  the  Atlantic. 


1*3 


fo'rd,  and  who  was  killed  in  Flanders  in  1070; 
lie  was  then  succeeded  by  his  son  Roger,  who 
was  afterwards  condemned  to  perpetUal  imprison- 
ment for  political  reasons.  His  cousin,  Walter 
Fitzgerald  de  Clare,  then  came  into  possession: 
Walter  was  succeeded  by  his  nephew  Gilbert  de 
Clare,  Earl  of  Pembroke,  whose  son  Richard 
(surnamed  Strongbow,  from  his  skill  in  archery), 
was  Earl  of  Pembroke  and  Lord  of  Chepstow". 
He  died  in  12 10,  leaving  sons  and  daughters,  the 
former  succeeded  him  to  the  estates  and  titles, 
but  died  without  issue.  The  property  then 
changed  hands  frequently  until  1301,  when  it 
became  the  property  of  the  crown.  Edward  the 
II  gave  a  deed  of  grant  of  it  to  his  brother, 
Thomas  Plantagenet.  From  him  it  passed  to 
the  Mowbrays,  Norforks,  Pembrokes,  and  then 
through  the  female  line  to  the  Somersets,  and  is 
now  the  property  of  their  descendant,  the  present 
Duke  of  Beaufort,  who  is  Baron  of  Chepstow. 

The  castle  of  Chepstow  is  still  a  splendid 
specimen  of  a  feudal  fortress,  situated  on  a  high 
precipice  overlooking  the  river  Wye,  and  is  com- 
posed of  four  distinct  courts,  with  their  various 
apartments  and  dungeons  intact.  Near  to  the 
entrance  gate,  a  beautiful  pointed  archway,  is  the 
rjund  tower,  where  in  days  gone  by  many  a 
captive  sighed  and  groaned,  and  now  celebrated 
as  the  place  wherein  Henry  Marten,  one  of  the 
special  judges  of  King  Charles  I,  was  confined 
for  twenty  years,  since  which  time  it  has  been 


«--lr 


*" 


104 


O't'i    till'  Atlantic. 


riillccl  Marten's  Tower.  -Marten  was  a  great 
advocate  of  the  Rcpiihlicaii  lorni  of  government 
and  a  staunch  friend  of  Cromwell,  the  pretender, 
figuring  among  tije  f(jremost,  wlio  were  the 
means  of  bringing  tliat  simple  and  unfortunate 
monarch,  Cliarles,  to  tiic  block,  for  which  act 
after  the  restoration  he  was  condemned  to  die ; 
but  his  life  was  not  to  be  sacrificed  as  that  of  his 
king's  was,  for  the  sentence  was  commuted  t<» 
imprisonment  for  life.  He  died  in  the  78th  year 
of  his  age,  and  was  interred  in  the  chancel  of 
the  parish  church  of  Chepstow,  and  on  his  moni.- 
ment  is  the  following,  written  by  himself: 

MKKK. 
Sr.pr.   (JTII,    1680,    WAS    lUTRIKI), 

A  TRUE  BORN  EN«LISHM.\.\, 
Who  in  Hcrkshirc  was  well  known 
To  love  his  country's  freedom  'bove  his  own  ; 
Hut  immured  full  twenty  ycarc, 
Had  time  to  write,  as  doth  appear. 

EPITAPH. 
Here  or  elsewhere  (all's  one  to  you  or  me). 
Earth,  air,  or  water  gripes  my  ghostly  dust. 
None  knows  how  soon  to  be  set  free. 
Reader,  if  you  an  old  tried  rule  will  trust, 
Vou'll  gladly  do  and  suffer  what  you  must. 

My  time  was  spent  in  serving  you  and  you. 
And  deatli  may  pay,  it  seems,  and  welcome,  too— 
Revenge  destroying,  but  itself— while  I 
To  birds  of  prey  leave  my  old  cage  and  fly. 
Examples  preach  to  the  eye,  care  then  mine  says. 
Not  how  you  did,  but  how  you  spend  your  days. 


In 
the  t( 
mens 
and  V 
be  te 
The  t 
Charl 
Gate, 

Du 
expei 
and  \ 
perio 
iiboul 
seaso 

Sa] 

1645. 
garri 
mand 
force 
some 
comr 
Gove 
denia 
rend( 
same 
rema 
rions 
May 
Gove 
takei 
Nich 


|''■fclhi^l^|•|i^B^l^^i^l 


O'r  the  Atlaniit. 


105 


II  was  ii  great 
of  government 
I,  the  pretender, 
who  were  the 
ncl  unfortunate 
for  which  act 
denined  to  die ; 
d  as  that  of  Ins 
s  commuted  to 
n  the  78th  year 
the  chancel  of 
don  his  rnono 
himself: 

IKI), 

I  MAN, 
his  own  ; 


}r  me), 
\-  diisi, 

(rusi, 
must. 

d  you, 

;lcomu,  loo— 

e  I 

nd  fly. 

n  mine  says, 

I  your  'days. 


In  addition  to  the  almost  impregnable  cystic 
the  town  was  strongly  fortified.  Walls  of  im- 
mense thickness  and  watch  towers  surrounded  it, 
and  with  some  few  exceptions  are  now  what  may 
be  termed  in  a  tolerable  state  of  preservation. 
The  town  gate,  called  in  the  charter,  granted  by 
Charles,  Earl  of  Worcester,  in  1524,  the  "Great 
Gate,"  is  still  standing  and  in  good  repair. 

During  the  reign  of  Charles  I,  Chepstow 
experienced  its  share  of  the  reverses  of  fortune 
and  hard  knocks,  identical  to  that  very  unsettled 
period  of  State  affairs,  when  old  England  was 
about  becoming  a  Republic,  b>it  only  for  a 
season. 

Says  Ruskworth :  "  On  the  6th  of  October, 
1645,  the  town  and  castle  of  Chepstow,  being 
garrisoned  by  the  King's  troops  under  the  com- 
mand of  Col.  Fitzmorris,  were  summoned  by  a 
force  of  300  cavalry  and  400  infantry,  assisted  l<y 
some  partisans  of  the  county,  the  whole  under 
command  of  Colonel  Morgan,  the  Parliamentary 
Governor  of  Gloucester,  to  surrender.  Tl)is 
demand  was  complied  with,  the  garrison  sur- 
rendering as  prisoners  of  war  on  the  loth  of  the 
same  month.  The  town  and  castle  afterwards 
remained  in  the  possession  of  the  Parliamenta- 
rions  until  1648,  without  interruption ;  but  in 
May  of  that  year,  during  the  absence  of  the 
Governor,  Col.  Hughes,  it  was  surprised  and 
taken  by  a  force  under  the  command  of  Sir 
Nicholas  Kemys,  Colonel  of  horse  in  the  King's 


le6 


Cer  the  Athvitk. 


service.  The  event  so  exasperated  Cromwell 
that  he  proceeded  against  it  in  person,  at  the 
head  of  a  considerable  force  of  cavalry,  infantry 
and  artillery.  lie  entered  the  town  on  the  nth 
of  May,  1648,  and  immediately  demanded  the 
surrender  of  the  castle,  which  was  directly 
refused,  and  the  little  garrison,  of  160  men  only, 
defended  it  with  the  utmost  courage  and  determi- 
nation ;  but  after  a  long  resistance,  the  little  bandr 
worn  out  with  watching  and  almost  famished 
with  hunger,  even  then  refusing  to  surrender,  had 
hoped  to  escape  by  a  beat  which  they  had  pro- 
vided  as  a  last  resource  for  the  purpose.  In 
this  they  were  deemed  to  disappointment,  for  a 
soldier  of  Cromwell's  army  had  swam  the  river, 
cut  the  moorings,  and  brought  it  away  with  him. 
P'inally  u  breach  was  effected  in  the  works  and 
the  castle  was  taken  by  assault.  Its  valiant  com- 
mander and  forty  men  lost  their  lives  in  endeav- 
oring at  the  last  moment  to  repel  the  invader." 

The  retaking  of  this  castle  was  considered  of 
so  much  importance  to  the  Parliamentarians 
that  a  reward  of  fifty  pounds  sterling,  a  large 
sum  in  those  days,  was  awarded  the  bearer  of 
the  dispatches. 

More  about  Chepstow  in  my  next. 


■-^tr 


OW  the  Alhnlie. 


107 


rated  Cromwell 
I  person,  at  the 
cavalry,  infantry 
own  on  the  nth 
'  demanded  the 
h  was  directly 
>f  160  men  only, 
age  and  determi- 
s,  the  little  bandr 
ilmost  famished 

0  surrender,  had 
h  they  had  pro- 
le  purpose.  In 
^ointment,  for  a 
swam  the  river, 
away  with  him. 

1  the  works  and 
Its  valiant  com- 
lives  in  endeav- 
1  the  invader." 
is  considered  of 
'arliamentarians 
sterling,  a  large 
d  the  bearer  of 

ext. 


LETTER  X. 

WAl-F.S,  CONTINUEO. 

Chepstow,  Continued. — The  old  parish  church 
of  Chepstow  was  originally  that  of  an  alien  pri- 
ory of  benedictine  monks,  dedicated  to  the  Holy 
Virgin.  It  was  founded  in  the  reign  of  Stephen 
by  one  of  the  family  of  De  Clare.  The  principal 
entrance  is  of  Norman  architecture,  and  the  old 
tower  contains  a  fine  peal  of  bells  and  a  hand- 
some clock  with  chimes,  which  chime  hourly 
commencing  five  miniues  before  striking  the  hour] 
Several  very  fine  monuments  adorn  the  interior 
among  which  is  a  very  elegant  canopied  tomb  of 
Henry  Somerset,  Lord  Herbert,  second  Earl  of 
Worcester  of  that  line,  who  died  in  1549. 

The  Welsh  custom  of  bedecking  the  graves  of 
departed  friends  with  flowers  of  early  spring,  is 
strictly  kept  up  in  the  ancient  churchyard  on 
Palm  Sunday,  and  is  done  so  generally  through- 
out Wales.  Dr.  Dodd  commemorates  the  custom 
in  the  following  and  other  lines : 


to! 


O'tr  Iht  Atlantif. 


Oh  !  'IJN  dcliKlitful  to  maintain 
Of  friends  decuaxcU  a  true  rvspoct  ; 

Then  brlnt{  •"«  flowrcts  fresh  and  green,  ' 
Straight  Khali  my  parent's  grave  be  decked. 

There  arc  several  fine  buildings,  among  which 
is  the  banit,  a  branch  of  the  west  of  England, 
towering  high  above  the  rest,  as  also  several 
buildings  of  ancient  date,  and  two  alms  houses, 
one  the  gift  of  Sir  Walter  Montague,  of  Pencoed, 
for  the  residence  and  relief  of  ten  poor  persons 
of  the  parish,  and  the  other  affords  an  asylum  to 
twelve  similar  persons.  There  is  also  another 
charitable  endowment  of  four  shillings  per  week, 
ciUed  "  Bowsher's  charity,"  for  the  support  of. 
ten  poor  old  bachelors!  "What  a  shame,' 
remarked  a  lady  friend  to  me  one  day,  "  it  is  that 
such  an  inducement  should  be  held  out  to  the 
young  men  of  Chepstow  to  live  a  single  life  of 
blessedness,  knowing  that  when  they  get  up  in 
years  that  they  may  possibly  be  one  of  the  fortu- 
nate  four  shillinger's  per  week,  to  live  a  life  of 
idleness.  Pooh  !  I  have  no  patience  left  when  I 
think  of  the  old  f— 1  of  a  batch  who  made  the 
bequest."  Poor  old  thing,  for  she  was  on  the 
wrong  side  of  forty.  How  much  it  did  seem  to 
annoy  her,  and  I  must  confess  that  I  thought 
myself  that  the  money  was  not  very  judiciously 
bequeathed. 

This  little  town  has  a  variety  of  very  fine 
stores,  is  well  supplied  with  water  and  lighted 
with  gas,  and  the  streets  are  well  paved    and 


beai 
pla( 
the 
hoo 
the 
rest 
T 
Scv 
rigl 
Grt 
wh( 
ous 
nes 
ver 
the 
mei 
bea 
trai 
BrI 
me 
upi 
neli 
an( 
not 
the 
spe 
nei 

nei 
th( 
mf 


O'er  thf  Atlantic. 


109 


sp»!Ct  ; 
id  gruvn,  ' 
vc  bo  decked. 

s,  among  which 

est  of  Englnnd, 

as  also  several 

ivo  alms  houses, 

fue,  of  Pencoed, 

;n  poor  persons 

ds  an  asylum  to 

is  also  another 

llings  per  week, 

the  support  of. 

i^hat  a  shame,' 

!  day,  "  it  is  that 

held  out  to  the 

a  single  life  of 

they  get  up  in 

»ne  of  the  fortu- 

:o  live  a  life  of 

snce  left  when  I 

who  made  the 

she  was  on  the 

it  did  seem  to 

that  I  thought 

'ery  judiciously 

i  of  very  fine 
ter  and  lighted 
'ell  paved    and 


beautifully  clean ;  in  short,  it  is  a  beautiful  healthy 
place,  and  is  well  worthy  of  a  week's  visit  from 
the  traveler  and  tf)urist,  for  it  and  the  neighbor- 
hood abounds  with  antiquities,  situated  in  one  of 
the  most  delightful  countries  tlie  eye  ever 
rested  upon. 

The  river  Wye,  which  empties  itself  into  the 
Severn,  is  celebrated  for  it*:  salmon  fishery,  the 
right  of  which,  like  every  other  monopoly  in 
Great  Britain,  is  vested  in  the  Duke  of  Beaufort, 
who  rents  it  out  to  an  enterprising  and  industri- 
ous Scotchman,  who  is  well  versed  in  the  busi- 
ness, and  under  whose  sagacious  management 
very  large  quantities  of  the  fish  are  caught  during 
the  season.  He  employs  upwards  of  a  hundred 
men,  and  during  our  stay  several  tons  of  these 
beautiful  fish  were  caught  and  shipped  off  by 
train  to  the  markets  of  London,  Manchester, 
Bristol  and  other  large  cities,  some  of  which  fish 
measured  more  than  three  feet  long  and  weighed 
upwards  of  70  pounds.  The  people  of  the 
neighborhood  deem  this  act  of  the  Duke's  mean 
and  also  an  infringement  of  their  rights,  for  if 
not  the  lords  of  the  soil,  they  certainly  think 
they  should  be  of  the  river.  They  therefore 
speak  of  his  grace  in  anv  but  a  respectful  man- 
ner. 

The  Wye  is  spanned  by  two  bridges,  which  are 
near  the  town,  one  a  tubular  bridge,  erected  by 
the  late  I.  K.  Brunell,  C.  E.,  of  Great  Eastern 
memory,  for  the  South  Wales  Railway  company, 


I  lO 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


ill  the  erection  of  which  the  lamented  engineer 
has  displayed  much  originality  and  boldness  of 
conception.     The  bridge,  i.  e.  the  span,  is  300 
feet  long  and  upwards  of  100  feet  high  from  low 
water  mark,  or  sixty  and  more  above  high  water 
mark.     The  other  bridge  is  of  wrought  iron,  is 
very  handsome,  and  is  used  for  turnpike  traffic. 
Before  bidding  adieu  to  ancient  Chepstow,  we 
visited  the  Wind  cliff  and  Tintern  Abbey,  pass- 
ing by  Piercefield  park,  the  princely  residence  of 
Henry  Clay,  Esq.,   of  which  I   cannot  give  an 
adequate  description ;  but  the  grandest  scene  on 
the  Wye  is  that  to  be  obtained  from  the  Wind 
cliff,  which  we  ascended  with  some  considerable 
difficulty,  and  were    only    too  glad  when  we 
reached  the   summit.      Here  we  were   perched 
high   up  in  the  air,  with  the  water  and  clouds 
beneath  us,  standing  upon  the  edge  of  a  precipice, 
the  depth  of  which  caused  us  to  shudder,  and  the 
farm  houses  in  the  valley  beneath  appearing  to 
have  been  reduced  to  one-third  their  actual  size, 
with  the  eccentric  river  winding  at  our  feet  like 
the  letter  S,  and  resembling  a  small  creek.      For 
let  my  renders  recollect  that  we  were  one  thou- 
sand feet  above  its  level,  and  from   where  we 
overlooked  nine  counties,  said   to   be  the  most 
beautiful  and  extensive  prospect  in  Great  Britain. 
Descending  a  different  way  to  that  we  went,  we 
passed  through  a  large  cavern  in  the  rock,  nearly 
90  feet  in  length,  leaving  which  we  passed  down 
360  steps,  and  over  a  rustic  bridge  to  the  Moss 


C 

b 

d 
a 
n 
\ 

c 

(i 

P 
h 
\ 

tl 

g 

d 

r 

V 

d 
s 

F 
i 

r 

c 

% 
i 
\ 
t 
c 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


lit 


[imented  engineer 
and  boldness  of 
the  span,  is  300 
;et  high  from  low 
above  high  water 
wrought  iron,  is 
■  turnpike  traffic, 
ent  Chepstow,  we 
em  Abbey,  pass- 
icely  residence  of 
cannot  give  an 
;randest  scene  on 
I  from  the  Wind 
ome  considerable 
glad  when  we 
'e  were  perched 
rater  and  clouds 
a^epf  a  precipice, 
shudder,  and  the 
ath  appearing  to 
their  actual  size, 
:  at  our  feet  like 
nail  creek.      For 
5  w^ere  one  thou- 
from   where  we 
to   be  the  most 
in  Great  Britain. 
:hat  we  went,  we 
1  the  rock,  nearly 
we  passed  down 
dge  to  the  Moss 


Cottage,  a  singular  building,  enveloped  in  shrub- 
bery, the  interior  of  which  is  lined  beautifully 
with  moss;  and  its  windows  are  of  stained  glass, 
diffusing  therein  a  very  nice,  soft  light.  Visitors 
are  here  supplied,  at  rather  a  salty  figure,  with 
refreshments  and  photographs  of  the  cottage,  the 
Wind  cliff,  &c.  After  paying  the  old  lady  in 
charge  for  coming  down  the  ever  memorable 
(i.  e.  to  me),  "  360  steps,"  and  purchasing  a  few 
photographs,  we  again  entered  our  carriage,  which 
had  gone  on  to  meet  us  here  from  the  foot  of  the 
Wind  cliff,  and  drove  to  Tintern,  two  miles  fur- 
ther, along  an  excellent  road,  but  not  at  a  2:40 
gait,  keeping  the  river  on  our  right.  It  was  a 
delightful  drive.  "  Such  drives  as  we  sometimes 
read  of,"  remarked  one  of  our  party.  To  me  it 
was  not  only  delightful,  but  refreshing,  after 
doubling  cape  Wind  cliff,  which  was  rather 
severe  exercise  for  a  man  of  my  weight  (225 
pounds),  and  arrived  at  Tintern,  we  proceeded 
immediately  to  view  the  Abbey,  a  building  of 
much  grandeur  and  antiquity. 

Tintern  Abbey  is  situated  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  river  'Vye,  in  a  hollow  sheltered  by  four 
gigantic  hills.  It  was  founded  for  white  monks 
in  the  year  1 131,  and  dedicated  to  St.  Mary  by 
Walter  Fitz  Richard  de  Clare,  son  of  Constance, 
the  sister  of  William  Fitzosborn,  who  was 
created  Earl  of  Hereford  by  the  Conqueror,  to 
whom  he  was  nearly  related.  This  pious  act  of 
De  Clare  was  intended  by  him  to  expiate  his 


'I 


Its 


O'er  the  Atlantic 


many  sins  for  having  robbed,  pillaged  and  mur- 
dered the  native  inhabitants  by  wholesale,  both 
he  and  his  brother  Gilbert  and  many  others  of 
the  nobles.  Abbotts,  priests,  &c.,  were  interred 
in  the  Abbey. 

On  entering  this  majestic  and  superb  ruin, 
wherein  the  close  cut  grass  serves  for  a  carpet, 
instead  of  the  fine  mosaic  pavement,  some  of 
which  has  been  collected  together  and  formed 
into  a  floor,  surrounded  by  an  ion  railing,  so 
many  objects  meet  the  eye,  in  so  sudden  a  man- 
ner (says  a  well  known  writer),  that  the  visitor 
becomes  astonished  beyond  conception  at  the 
grandeur  that  must  have  once  reigned  within 
those  ancient  walls.  The  long  line  of  massive 
lofty  pillars  which  divides  the  aisles,  the  fallen 
arches  and  the  elegant  remains  of  the  east  win- 
dow (sixty  feet  in  depth),  strike  the  beholder  with 
awe  and  challenge  his  admiration  and  astonish- 
ment at  what  was  possible  in  the  days  of  semi- 
barbarism.  Here  and  there  are  scattered  some 
neatly  piled  up  sculptured  fragments  and  tomb- 
stones, ruined  effigies  and  broken  ornaments, 
which  cannot  but  strike  the  eye  and  cause  the 
mind  to  wander  into  centuries  long  gone  by. 

From  the  north  aisle  you  pass  through  a  door 
or  iron  gateway  into  the  cloisters,  and  from  there 
to  the  chapter  house,  infirmary,  library,  refectory 
and  kitchen,  all  in  a  good  state  of  preservation, 
considering  the  time  since  they  were  inhabited 
by  mortal  man.     Says  one  writer : 


T 
forn 

'SO 

and 

doo 

feet 

use( 

to  b 

by  I 

sup 

VII 

is  r 

the 

coll 

visi 

anti 

thei 

? 

its  ] 

for 

It 

mo 

sin] 

Hi! 


O'er  the  Atlantu. 


"3 


taged  and  mur- 

ivholesale,  both 

nany  others  of 

were  interred 

I  superb  ruin, 
5s  for  a  carpet, 
ment,  some  of 
er  and  formed 
\  ?n   railing,  so 

sudden  a  man- 
that  the  visitor 
:eption  at  the 
reigned  within 
ine  of  massive 
sles,  the  fallen 
'  the  east  win- 
;  beholder  with 

and  astonish- 

days  of  semi- 
icattered  some 
ints  and  tomb- 
jn  ornaments, 
ind  cause  the 
J  gone  by. 
hrough  a  door 
ind  from  there 
rary,  refectory 

preservation, 
rere  inhabited 


'•  Mow  many  heart's  have  here  grown  cold 

Thai  sleep  these  mouldering  stones  among  ? 
How  many  beads  have  here  been  told, 

How  many  matins  here  been  sung  ? 
On  this  rude  stone  by  time  long  broke — 

I  think  I  see  some  pilgrim  kneel — 
I  think  I  see  the  censor  smoke — 

I  think  I  hear  the  solemn  peel." 

Tlie  Abbey,  grand  old  classic  ruin,  is  a  cruci- 
form, its  nave  and  choir  228  feet,  and  transept 
150  feet  in  length,  heigiit  of  centre  arches  70  feet 
and  the  smaller  30  feet,  the  breadth  of  entrance 
door  is  14  feet,  and  the  walls  above  the  dooi  28 
feet.  The  amount  of  stone  and  Roman  cement 
used  in  its  construction  is  astonishing,  and  had 
to  be  transported  from  a  long  distance,  no  doubt 
by  boats  on  the  river.  At  the  dissolution  it  was 
suppressed  and  the  site  granted  by  Henry  the 
VIII,  to  Henry,  second  Earl  of  VVorcester,  and 
is  now  the  property  of  a  descendant,  his  grace 
the  Duke  of  Beaufort,  whose  agent  in  charge 
collects  the  nominal  sum  of  si-s.-pence  of  all  who 
visit  the  ruins,  a  sum  well  spent  by  the  lover  of 
antiquities.  Retracing  our  steps  to  Chepstow, 
there  will  end  our  tour  through  Wales. 

Now  a  few  remarks  about  Cymru  (Wales),  and 
its  people  generally,  ere  wc  take  our  leave  of  it 
for  the  land  of  the  Saesoneg  (English). 
It  is  divided  into  two  territories,  com- 
monly called  North  and  South  Wales,  compri- 
sing twelve  counties,  and  its  extent  (says  W. 
His.  of  W.  p  2),  "may  be  estimated  by  the  follow- 


114 


O'er  the  Atlantk. 


ing  particulars:  From  Carmel  Point  to  Cheps- 
tow on  the  Severn,  is  about  145  miles,  and  from 
Birkenhead  on  the  Mersey  to  the  Wormshead  in 
Glanmorganshire,  about  140  miles.  From  the 
mouth  of  the  Clwyd  in  Denbgshire  to  Barry 
Island  in  Glanmorganshire  is  about  140  miles,  and 
from  the  mouth  of  the  Dovey  in  Cardiganshire 
to  Bridge-North  on  the  Severn,  nearly  70  miles, 
while  Braich-y-pwll  Head,  in  Carnarvonshire,  and 
extends  to  the  west  beyond  the  mouth  of  the 
J  Dovey,  about  30  miles,  and  St    David's  head  in 

Pembrokeshire,  about  50  miles,  in  all  about  7,500 
square  miles  of   territory.     It   includes,   beside 
the  twelve  counties,  Monmouthshire  and  Here- 
fordshire, with   parts  of  Gloucestershire,   Wor- 
cestershire, Shropshire  and  Cheshire."  The  former 
is,  in    my  opinion,  substantially  a    JVels/i  county, 
it  certainly  is   in   language  and   habits  of  the 
people,  although  included  in  the  list  of  English 
counties  at  present,  while  portions  of  the  others 
were  also  at  one  time  no  doubt  part  and  parcel 
of  Welsh  territory  taken,  iike  Monmouthshire  to 
enlarge   British   territory.      The  whole   surface 
of  the  country  is  mountainous,  not  unlike  Penn- 
sylvania, its    highest    mountain    being    that  of 
Snowdon  or  Eryri,  which  is  3,571  feet  above  the 
level   of    the  sea,  next   are  Carnedd-Llewelyn, 
3,466   feet,  Carnedd-Davydd,  3,422  feet,  Arrenig 
2,999  feet,  and   several   others  of  lesser  height. 
Rivers  it  hasmany,  among  which  I  may  name  the 
Severn,  superior  in  every  respect  to  any  of  the 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


"S 


'oint  to  Cheps- 
miles,  and  from 

Wormshead  in 
:es.  From  tlie 
shire  to  Barry 
it  140  miles,  and 

Cardiganshire 
learly  70  miles, 
arvonshire,  and 

mouth  of  the 
•avid's  head  in 
all  about  7,500 
icludes,  beside 
lire  and  Here- 
tershire,  Wor- 
e."  T\\c  former 
I  IVels/i  county, 
habits  of  the 
list  of  English 
5  of  the  others 
tart  and  parcel 
imouthshire  to 
whole  surface 
t  unlike  Penn- 
3eing  that  of 
feet  above  the 
edd-Llewelyn, 

feet,  Arrenig 
lesser  height, 
may  name  the 
o  any  of  the 


others,  tgo  miles  long;  next  is  the  Wye  and 
Towy.  The  Severn  and  Towy  are  to  a  certain 
point  navigable,  and  the  whole  three  are  cele- 
brated for  salmon  fishing.  A  vast  extent  of  this 
country  is  in  a  high  state  of  cultivation  and  the 
other  parts  abound  with  rich  minerals,  principally 
beds  and  seams  of  coal  and  iron  ore. 

Wales — of  which  there  is  so  little  known 
abroad,  generally,  deserves  from  me,  a  native  of 
its  soil,  more  than  a  passing  remark.  Hence  the 
following : 

Although  it  comprises  only  twelve  counties, 
six  of  which  form  th-  northern,  and  six  the 
southern  division,  it  certainly  did  embrace  in  olden 
times  much  more  territory,  for,  as  history  says,  it 
included  Monmouthshire,  together  with  other 
contiguous  counties,  whole  or  in  part,  which  now 
are  incorporated  with  England.  Thus— I  take 
Chester,  Shrewsbury,  Hereford,  Chepstow,  Ncivport 
and  Abergavenny,  especially  the  two  latter,  which 
are  in  the  county  of  Monmouth,  to  be  substan- 
tially Welsh  towns,  for  there  the  Welsh  language 
still  prevails,  and  more  especially  in  the  rural 
districts,  where  the  natives  (more  or  less)  retain 
their  ancient  prejudices  against  the  Saxon. 

Wales  has  a  population  of  about  1,250,000. 
"  It  derived  its  name,  as  also  did  its  people,  from 
the  Saxons,  who,  by  so  naming,  denoted  a  land 
and  people  to  which  they  were  strangers.  The 
Welsh  have  always  called  themselves  Cymri,  of 
which  the  literal  meaning  is  Aborigines,  and  the 


IJ. 


ii6 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


langu.ige  CriHrarg  or  Cymric,  i.  e.,  tlje  primitive 
tongue ;  whence  tlic  Romans  called  the  country 
Cambria. 

It  was  into  this  country  the  ancient  Britons 
retreated,  maintaining  their  independence  by  he- 
roically defending  themselves  against  enemies 
superior  in  power  and  number,  who  were  every- 
where else  victorious.  The  Romans  never  were 
able  to  subdue  them,  and  the  Saxons,  although  in 
possession  of  the  neighboring  country,  could 
never  secure  continued  possession  of  Wales,  and 
it  was  not  until  the  strength  of  the  country  was 
so  diminished,  owing  to  internal  dissentions,  that 
the  Mercians,  under  King  Offa,  laid  waste  exten- 
sive districts,  and  wresting  a  portion  from  the 
Welsh  princes,  reduced  the  country  to  nearly  its 
present  limits,  and  erected  that  famous  boundary 
called  Clawdd  Offa  or  Offa's  Dyke. 

In  843,  Roderic  was  the  sovereign  of  Wales, 
when  he  divided  it  into  three  principalities ;  and 
during  the  Danish  Ascendency  in  Britain,  little  is 
known  of  Wales.  The  Danes  made  some  incur- 
sions on  the  coast,  but  gained  no  permanent  foot- 
ing in  the  country.  So  the  Welsh  continued 
under  their  own  princes  and  laws,  and  were 
never  entirely  subjected  to  the  crown  of  England 
till  the  reign  of  Edward  I,  when  Llewelyn-ap- 
Gruffydd,  Prince  of  Wales,  through  treachery, 
lost  his  life  and  his  country,  shortly  after  which, 
Edward,  the  better  to  secure  his  conquest,  and  to 
reconcile  the  Welsh  to  a  foreign  power,  sent  his 


:.,  tlje  primitive 
jfl  the  country 

ncient  Britons 
cndence  by  he- 
^<iinst  enemies 
bo  were  every- 
ans  nct<er  were 
nis,  nlthcugh  in 
:oiintry,  could 
of  Wales,  and 
le  country  was 
issentions,  that 
d  waste  exten- 
rtion  from  the 
y  to  nearly  its 
nous  boundary 

eign  of  Wales, 
cipalities;  and 
Britain,  little  is 
de  some  incur- 
ermanent  foot- 
!lsh  continued 
ws,  and  were 
wn  of  England 
Llewelyn-ap- 
igh  treachery, 
y  after  which, 
•nquest,  and  to 
jower,  sent  his 


"  v. 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


"7 


Queen  to  Carnarvon  Castle,  where  she  gave  birth 
to  a  son,  &c.,"  (B.  G.)  of  which  I  have  treated  in 
the  preceding  pages.  Of  its  people  I  may  justly 
say — 

The  Welsh  of  to-day  are  a  hard  working,  thrifty 
and  frugal  people,  truly  loyal  and  patriotic, 
full  of  love  and  song  for  their  native  land ;  and 
are  considered  abroad,  I  am  proud  to  remark, 
intelligent  and  good  law-abiding  citizens. 


r 


ii8 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


LETTER  XI. 

ENGLAND. 

Briglistow,  c»r  Cacr  Odor,  for  by  these  names 
this  ancient  and  important  city  was  called  by  the 
Romans,  Saxons  and  IVefsh,  is  situated  in  two 
counties,  viz :  Gloucestershire  and  Somerset- 
shire. The  largest  portion  belongs  to  the  for- 
mer. Two  rivers  wend  their  way  through  it,  the 
Avon  and  the  Frome. 

The  city  owes  its  origin  to  Brennus,  a  King  of 
Britain,  who  flourished  330  years  B.  C.  During 
the  sovereignty  of  the  first  Edward  (1,000)  it 
suffered  severely  from  numerous  and  severe  con- 
flicts with  large  bodies  of  the  Danes,  who  fre- 
quently found  their  way  up  the  Bristol  Channel 
and  sacrificed  to  their  brutal  furj-  both  sexes  ir- 
respective of  age.  Hundreds  fell  on  these  occa- 
sions victims  to  the  bloodthirsty  invaders,  who 
always  left  loaded  with  plunder.  But  at  last 
they  were  signally  defeated,  and  had  to  beat  hasty 
retreats  ;  and,  Edward  having  caused  to  be  con- 
structed several  castles  along  the  river  Avon  for 
the  defense  of  the  places  lying  upon  its  banks. 


-^^ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


U9 


)'  these  names 
IS  called  by  the 
ituated  in  two 
and  Somerset- 
igs  to  the  for- 
through  it,  the 

mus,  a  King  of 
B.  C.  During 
ward  (i,ooo)  it 
md  severe  con- 
'anes,  who  fre- 
ristol  Channel^ 

both  sexes  ir- 
on these  occa- 

invaders,  who 
-.  But  at  last 
id  to  beat  hasty 
jsed  to  be  ron- 
river  Avon  for 
pon  its  banks, 


effectually  put  a  stop  to  their  piratical  incursions. 

The  chief  of  those  strongholds  was  the  cele- 
brated one  of  Bristol,  which  Henry  of  Lancaster 
stormed  when  defended  by  one  of  the  adherents 
of  King  Richard.  Prince  Rupert  took  it  from 
the  Parliamentary  army,  they  however  regained 
it  afterward  and  finally  it  was  razed  to  th  • 
ground  by  Cromwell.  Within  the  walls  of  that 
once  extensive  castle  Eleanor,  Princess  of  Bri- 
v.iiny,  was  incarcerated  by  King  John,  during  a 
period  of  forty  years;  and  witiiin  the  same  dun- 
geon the  same  tyranical  monarch  committed  tiie 
well  known  deed  of  barbarity  on  the  person  of 
an  unfortunate  Jew  named  Abraham,  of  extract- 
ing one  tooth  per  diem  until  he  had  paid  a  sum 
of  ten  thousand  marks.  The  unhappy  victim  with- 
stood this  flagrant  act  of  injustice  and  cruelty 
until  he  had  sacrificed  all  but  one,  and  then  com- 
plied with  the  exorbitant  demand,  a  torture  some 
of  our  American  ladies  now-a-days  would  think 
nothing  of,  for  they  frequently  have  a  whole 
mouthful  extracted  for  appearance  sake  alone. 

Henry  the  VIII  granted  the  charter  which 
made  Bristol  a  city  and  the  see  of  a  Bishop. 

Serious  riots  took  place  here  in  1749,  octa 
sioned  by  the  erection  of  turnpike  gates,  when 
the  price  of  bread  was  very  high.  A  great  many 
lives  were  sacrificed  on  that  occasion.  Another 
riot  occurred  in  1792  for  the  purpose  of  abolish- 
ing the  tolls  collected  on  Bristol  bridge ;  then 
followed  a  bread  riot   in  1 801,  all  of  which  tend- 


ISO 


O'fr  the  AUaiitk. 


cd  to  disturb  tlic  public;  peace  and  sjicrifice  a 
jfrcat  many  lives,  without  aciiieving  any  good 
results — so  much  for  riot  and  civil  war. 

The  objects  of  curiosity  in  this  city  are  very 
numerous,  and  of  the  most  diversified  character, 
the  Cathedral,  the  various  parish  churches,  and 
almost  every  street  contains  something  to  awak- 
en the  attention  of  the  visitor,  and  to  excite  a 
laudable  spirit  of  inquiry.  This  is  more  particu- 
larly the  case,  as  it  respects  mar  y  of  those  ma- 
jestic and  time  honored  edifices  •  ct  apart  for  the 
services  of  religion  ;  viz  :  that  rS  the  Established 
Church  of  England. 

It  is  considered  the  second  city  in  size  in 
England,*  and  as  we  visited  it  specially  to  see 
some  relatives,  remaining  there  but  one  day,  af- 
fording  us  just  suflRcient  time  to  visit  Clifton  and 
its  magnificent  suspension  bridge,  which  spans 
the  river  Avon,  said  i-^  be  one  of  the  finest  struc- 
tures of  the  kind  ii.  the  known  world,  my  re- 
marks will  be  brief 

Suspension  bridges,  we  are  informed,  i,  e.,  in  a 
rude  form,  were  first  constructed  by  the  Peruvians, 
but  the  principle  was  understood  in  Europe  at 
least  as  early  as  the  middle  ages,  and  were  fre- 
quently employed  in  military  operations;  the 
Prince  of  Orange  used  them  in  1631,  and  during 
the  Peninsular  war,  "when  the  French  had  de- 
stroyed  one  of  the  stone  arches  of  the  bridge  of 

Liverpool,  as  a  seaport,  is  0:  more  importance  and  prob. 
ably  larger. 


All 
Em 
sig 
one 
lull 
cnt 
fori 
lia> 
\\w\ 
per 
in  I 
leg 
tak 
I 
tur 
enc 
ton 
opr 
Hov 
ina| 
eve 
ab<] 
brit 

ly 

roa 
liar 
wei 
teni 
fori 
tnw 
as 


:  and  ssicriricc  a 
jvlng  any  good 
/  loar. 

lis  city  arc  very 
■sified  character, 
*h  churches,  and 
lething  to  awak- 
and  to  excite  a 
is  more  particu- 
ir  V  of  those  ma- 
set  apart  for  the 
i"  the  Established 

city  in  si/e  in 
specially  to  see 
but  one  day,  af- 
visit  Clifton  and 
3fc,  which  spans 
the  finest  struc- 
1    world,  my   re- 

ormed,  i,  e.,  in  a 
by  the  Peruvians, 
)d  in  Europe  at 
!S,  and  were  fre- 
operations;  the 
631,  and  during 
French  had  de- 
of  the  bridge  of 

portance  and  prob. 


O'fr  t/w  Allaiitii-. 


lai 


Alcantara  (a  splendid  Roman  bridge  built  by  the 
Emperor  Trojan),  in  order  to  prevent  the  ])a.s- 
sige  of  the  allied  troops,  a  n»pe  bridge  was  at 
once  thrown  across  the  gap  (very  nearly  one 
hundred  feet  wide)  and  crossed  in  safety  by  the 
entire  British  army,"  and  temporary  bridges 
formed  of  iron  chains  with  planks  laid  across 
have  frequently  been  used  for  various  purposes. 
But  the  last  great  impulse  to  the  erection  of  sus- 
l>ension  bridges  was  erected  by  the  completion 
in  r826  of  Telford's  Menai  bridge,  at  that  time 
regarded  as  ()ne  of  the  boldest  attempts  under- 
taken by  any  engineer. 

I  will  now  speak  of  theClifttm  splendid  struc- 
ture. Standing  upon  the  edge  of  the  old  R(»mai) 
encampment  which  crowns  the  summit  of  Clif- 
ton Downs,  with  the  valley  of  the  nightingale 
opposite,  and  200  feet  below  you  the  river  Avon 
flowing  swiftly  to  the  sea,  is  t"ie  of  the  most 
magnificent  views  that  the  eye  of  the  spectator 
ever  rested  upon  ;  it  is  here,  spanning  the  river 
about  700  feet,  is  erected  the  Clifton  suspension 
bridge,  so  long  in  contemplation,  but  now  happi- 
ly for  the  residents  of  Clifton  and  HotweJI- 
road  completed.  This  bridge  is  not  only  very 
handsome  but  capable  of  sustaining  a  permanent 
weight  of  5,000  tons,  the  massive  links  which  ex- 
tend from  pier  to  pier  with  their  gilded  bolts, 
form  especially  on  a  clear  sunny  day  a  very  at- 
tractive and  daz/ling  sight,  and  must  be  seen  so 
as  to  form  a  correct  idea  of  its  beauty  ;  indeed 

K 


Iff 


O'er  tht  Atlantic. 


there  nre  but  few  (if  any)  of  tlie  various  bridges 
erected  in  other  parts  of  the  world  can  excel  it 
In  grandeur,  and  as  we  gazed  upon  it  we  were 
struck  with  wonder  and  admiration  for  the  genius 
of  the  great  Brunei,  to  whose  engineering  skill 
the  structure  owed  its  presence,  although  he  did 
not  live  to  witness  its  completion,  but  a  finer  and 
more  lasting  monument  could  not  be  erected  to 
his  memory  than  the  Clifton  suspension  bridge  ! 

Bristol,  especially  that  part  called  Clifton,  has 
within  the  last  ao  years  increased  very  much  in 
size,  and  some  of  the  finest  private  dwellings  in 
all  England  adorn  its  once  spacious  and  fertile 
fields.  College  roiid  being  the  most  fashionable 
of  all  others,  both  as  a  public  drive  and  prome- 
nade. 

We  failed  to  make  it  convenient  to  visit  the 
old  cathedral  St.  Mary  de  Redcliffe,  which  still 
stands  a  ven«rable  and  majestic  monument  to 
the  days  of  yore. 

Bristol  has  a  population  of  probably  175,000, 
and  is  quite  a  commercial  city,  doing  an  exten- 
sive trade,  principally  with  South  Wales,  and  is 
the  terminus  of  the  Great  Western  Railway.  We 
will  now  take  a  hurried  leave  of  this  city  and 
proceed  by  way  of  Swindon  to — 

London. — This  wonderful  and  rapidly  grow- 
ing city  has  a  population  of  over  3,000,000  of 
people,  and  is  no  doubt  the  largest  and  most 
flourishing  city  in  the  known  world  ;  a  few  re- 
marks on  its  early  history  will  therefore  not  be 
uninteresting  to  my  readers. 


te. 
B 
th 
w 
tr 
cl 
to 

g' 
ar 
th 
w 

Cli 

/I 

fo 

Li 

ha 

al 

Cl 

ch 

it 

th 

Isi 

ha 
dc 
Ri 
su 
wl 
on 
m 
dc 


O'er  the  Atlanfic, 


>»3 


various  bridges 
Drid  can  excel  it 
jpon  it  we  were 
)n  for  the  genius 
ngineering  skill 
although  he  did 
I,  but  a  liner  and 
lot  be  erected  to 
ipension  bridge ! 
lied  Clifton,  has 
d  very  much  in 
ate  dwellings  in 
:ious  and  fertile 
nost  fashionable 
rive  and  prome- 

ent  to  visit  the 
iiffe,  which  still 
ic  monument  to 

robably  175,000, 
ioing  an  exten- 
:h  Wales,  and  is 
n  Railway.  We 
of  this  city  and 

I  rapidl)'  grow- 
ver  3,000,000  of 
rgest  and  most 
jrld  ;  a  few  re- 
therefore  not  be 


It  was  at  one  time  the  capital  of  the  Trinoban- 
tes,  n  numerous  people  inhabiting  those  parts  of 
Britain  now  called  Middlesex  and  Essex,  before 
the  christian  era,  even  in  those  remote  times  it 
was  governed  by  laws  and  was  an  important  cen- 
tre of  commerce!  Caesar  denominated  it  "the 
chief  city  of  the  Trinobantes."  Antiquity  lias 
told  us  notliin;^  of  the  foiuidcr,  but  tradition 
gives  it  to  a  "  Trojan  called  Brute,  who  invaded 
and  con<piered  Britain  11 16  years  B.  C."  During 
the  476  years  of  Roman  rule,  stupendous  works 
wjre  accomplished  by  a  people  of  advanced  me- 
chanical skill,  whose  soldiers  were  superior  arti- 
/ans  and  excellent  workmen,  capable  of  building 
fortresses,  cities,  &c.,  and  as  the  Romans  made 
I/ondon  their  grand  emporium,  the  city  would 
have  had  full  advantage  of  their  architectural 
ability.  We  further  learn  that  the  Emperor 
Claudius  (who  built  Gloster,  Glevum  and  Col- 
chester Colonia)  remodelled  London  and  called 
it  Auguster;  in  the  reic  of  Nero  it  was  deemed 
the  largest  and  mosi  opulent  city  in  the  British 
Islands. 

Various  remains  '^f  Roman  art  and  grandeur 
have  been  found  in  '  itidon  at  various  times,  even 
down  to  the  build  ng  of  the  great  Metropolitan 
Railway,  where  now  the  iron  horse  traverses  the 
subterraneous  passages  of  the  present  great  city, 
which  of  itself  is  sufficient  proof  of  its  being  at  ^ 
one  time  a  place  of  much  importance  ;  it  is  not 
my  intention  however  to  give  a  history  of  Lon- 
don from  its  foundation  to  the  Norman  conquest 


I 


124 


O'ef  the  Atlantic. 


i| 


and  down  to  the  present  time,  but  confine  myself 
to  London  as  it  is,  with  its  surroundings,  giving 
an  account  only  of  that  we  visited  and  saw  ;  so 
by  way  of  commencement  I  will  take  my  read- 
ers to — 

St.  Paul's  Cathedral. — In  610  Ethclbert, 
King  of  Kent,  undertook  the  building  of  the 
church  of  St.  Paul,  and  Erkenwald,  Bishop  of 
London,  who  died  about  the  year  686,  gave  large 
sums  of  money  towards  its  completion,  but  in  961 
it  is  supposed  this  edifice  was  destroyed  by  fire 
and  rebuilt  within  the  following  year.  King 
Athelstan  endowed  it  "  with  divers  fair  Lord- 
ships," and  here  the  King  was  interred,  and  his 
son  Edmond  Ironsides  crowned. 

William  the  Conqueror  bestowed  some  large 
estates  upon  St.  Pauls,  but  towards  the  close  of 
his  reign  it  was  again  destroyed  by  fire,  and  then 
Maurice,  Bishop  of  London  "conceived"  {says 
Stowe)  "the  vast  design  of  erecting  the  magnifi- 
cent structure  which  immediately  preceded  the. 
present  cathedral,  a  work  that  men  of  that  time 
judged  would  never  be  completed,"  so  vast  were 
its  dimensions  and  slow  its  progress  that  it  took, 
we  afc  informed,  230  years  to  complete  it. 

The  great  clock  was  a  wonderful  piece  of  me- 
chanism, and  a  splendid  ornament,  the  figure  of 
an  angel  pointed  to  the  hour,  in  the  sight  of  pass- 
ers by— "a  heavenly  messenger  marking  the  pro- 
gress of  time." 

During  the  civil  war  the  whole  church,  except 


lit  confine  myself 
fundings,  giving 
ted  and  saw  ;  so 
11  take  my  read- 

6io  Ethclbert, 
building  of  the 
wald,  Bishop  of 
r  686,  gave  large 
letion,  but  in  961 
estroyed  by  fire 
ng  year.  King 
ivers  fair  Lord- 
nterred,  and  his 

wed  some  large 
rds  the  close  of 
by  fire,  and  then 
conceived"  (says 
ing  the  niagnifi- 
ly  preceded  the. 
nen  of  that  time 
d,"  so  vast  were 
ress  that  it  took, 
iiplete  it. 
Ful  piece  of  mc- 
nt,  the  figure  of 
he  sight  of  pass- 
larking  the  pro- 

;  church,  except 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


125 


the  choir,  was  used  for  stables  and  places  for  the 
accommodation  of  soldiers,  and  its  moneys  col- 
lected for  repairs,  seized  by  the  Parliament ;  tiuis 
within  the  walls  was  heard  the  clatter  of  horses' 
hoofs,  and  the  jingle  of  the  sabres  and  spurs  of 
the  soldiers  of  Oliver  Cromwell's  army,  togeth- 
er with  the  coarse  laugh,  rude  jest  and  muttered 
curses  of  a  class  of  people  fully  determine^  to 
carry  out  the  object  in  view — that  of  abolishing 
monarchial  rule.  At  the  restoration  a  public 
subscription  was  gotten  up  to  put  it  in  repair 
but  before  the  work  was  began  it  again  became 
a  prey  to  the  great  fire  of  1666,  upon  wliich  oc- 
casion it  was  reduced  to  a  mass  of  smouldering 
ruins. 

"On  June  21st,  1675,  Sir  Christopher  Wren 
began  the  building  of  the  present  edifice,  and 
the  choir  was  opened  for  divine  service  on  Dec. 
2nd,  1697  ;  the  last  or  highest  stone  of  the  build- 
ing was  laid  on  the  top  of  the  lantern  in  1710. 
Thus  it  occupied  35  years  in  its  completion,  un- 
der one  architect,  one  master  mason,  and  under 
one  prelate.  Dr.  Compton,  Bishop  of  London. 

The  large  organ  built  in.  1853  contains  60 
sounding  stops,  viz  :  Great  organ  16,  choir  12, 
solo  9,  swell  13,  pedal  10,  besides  accessory  stops, 
movements,  &c.,  and  there  are  4,004  pipes  in  it. 

A  flight  of  260  steps  takes  the  visitor  to  the 
whispering  gallery,  wherein  the  slightest  whisper 
can  be  heard  along  the  wall,  by  two  persons 
standing  a  long  way  apart  as  if  that  of  a  loud 


i 


136 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


voice — 560  steps  leads  to  the  upper  gallery  and  616 
to  the  hall,  from  where  can  be  had  a  most  magni- 
ficent view  of  the  city  and  suburbs. 

The  whispering  gallery  is  140  yards  in  cir- 
cumference, the  great  bell  10  feet  in  diameter, 
the  metal  of  which  is  ten  inches  thick  and 
weight  11,474  pounds;  this  immense  weight  is 
suspended  forty  feet  from  the  floor,  and  the  hour 
is  struck  on  this  bell  by  a  hammer  weighing  145 
pounds. 

The  clock  has  two  faces  of  57  feet  in  circum- 
ference, or  nearly  20  feet  in  diameter,  the  minute 
hands  on  each  face  are  nine  feet  eight  inches 
long  and  weigh  75  pounds,  the  hour  hands  are 
five  feet  nine  inches  l<mg  and  weigh  44  pounds, 
the  hour  figures  are  two  feet  two  inches  long,  the 
|)endu!um  16  feet  with  a  weight  at  the  bottom  of 
108  poinifJs,  yet  it  is  suspended  by  a  spring  one- 
eighth  of  an  inch  in  thickness. 

From  the  pavement  to  the  top  of  the  cross  over 
the  dome  is  upwards  of  360  feet,  and  the  lantern 
which  crowns  the  Cathedral  is  said  to  weigh  700 
tons,  the  ball  is  si.\  feet  in  diameter,  its  weight 
5,600  pounds,  and  has  ample  room  for  the  accom- 
modation within  of  twelve  persons  ;  thirty  feet 
above  it  is  the  cross,  which  weighs  3,360  pounds 
and  is  fifteen  feet  high." 

In  the  vaults  are  the  remains  of  celebrated 
persons,  among  whom  I  may  name  Sir  Chris. 
Wren,  who  died  in  1723,  in  the  91st  year  of  his 
age,  Lord  Nelson  and  the  Duke  of  Wellington  ; 


anc 
rio 
the 
eel 
am 
fift 
He 
cos 

] 

rat 
the 
cai 
wl 
ths 

CO 

ba 

m( 

m: 

an 

ad 

a 

ill 

re 

TC 


O'er  the  Atlantic 


137 


gallery  and  616 
a  most  magni- 
)s. 

0  yards  in  cir- 
et  in  diameter, 
lies  thick  and 
lense  weight  is 
r,  and  the  hour 
r  weighing  145 

feet  in  circum- 
:ter,  the  minute 
t  eiglit  inches 
lour  liands  are 
;igh  44  pounds, 
nches long,  the 
t  the  bottom  of 
•  a  spring  one- 

f  the  cross  over 
ind  the  lantern 
d  to  weigh  700 
Iter,  its  weight 
for  the  accom- 
is  ;  thirty  feet 
s  3,360  pounds 


and  upwards  of  fifty  elegant  monuments  by  va- 
rious masters  adorn  the  interior,  all  erected  a 
the  public  expense  to  the  memory  of  departed 
celebrities,  the  cost  of  which  I  was  informed 
amounts  to  no  less  a  sum  than  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand  pounds,  that  of  Lord  Nelson,  Earl 
Howe,  Sir  Ralph  Abercrombie  and  Lord  Rodney 
costing  upwards  of  ^6,000  each. 

In  the  crypt  the  most  conspicuous  and  elabo- 
rate are  the  tombs  of  Nelson  and  Wellington 
the  latter  is  very  fine,  and  has  near  it  the  funeral 
car  with  all  the  trappings  and  appointments 
which  conveyed  to  their  last  resting  place  all 
that  was  once  mortal  of  the  "Iron  Duke."  His 
coronet  (deprived  of  its  precious  stones)  and 
baton  lie  on  top  of  the  sarcophagus,  solitary 
memorials  of  the  past,  that  coronet  which  on  so 
many  occasions  shed  lustre  around  amid  pomp 
and  state,  but  now  dismantled  and  doomed  to 
adorn,  like  that  baton  which  he  carried  on  many 
a  battle  field,  the  last  resting  place  of  its  once 
illustrious  wearer. 

More  about  London  in  my  next — when  I  will 
request  my  readers  to  accompany  me  into  the 

TOWER. 


i  of  celebrated 
ime  Sir  Chris, 
ist  year  of  his 
)f  Wellington  ; 


ff^ 


138 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


I- 
.1 


LETTER  XH. 

ENOLANU,   CONTINUED. 

London  Continued.— Ihs  Tower  of  London, 
a  very  extensive  building,  is  now  tlie 
receptacle  for  arms,  &c.,  of  tiie  naval  and  military 
school,  both  ancient  and  modern.  It  is  of  Nor- 
man architecture,  and  was  founded  by  William 
the  Conqueror  as  a  fortress,  but  has  since  then 
served  for  various  purposes,  even  as  the  residence 
of  Royalty,  for  several  of  the  English  Monarchs 
have  occupied  it  as  a  palace  ;  it  is  therefore  well 
worthy  of  a  visit,  and  perhaps  it  may  be  to  others 
as  it  was  to  the  writer,  the  most  interesting  place 
in  all  Englaiui. 

After  passing  through  two  gateways  and  across 
the  moat  in  charge  of  a  Government  official,  pe- 
culiarly dressed  and  commonly  known  as  a  "beef 
eater,"  Ave  were  soon  within  the  walls,  wherein 
some  of  the  blackest  deeds  that  ever  disgraced 
the  pages  of  history  have  been  enacted,  and  stood 
in  front  of  the  Traitor's  gate,  which  opens  into 
the  fortress  from  the  river  Thames,  through 
which  all  the  State  prisoners  were  once  brought 


the 
wiv 
cau 
by 
her 
her 
littl 
E 

Eai 

139 

for 

tim 
Nei 
ma( 
to  1 
oft 
fort 
the 
strc 
tioi 
the 
Ear 
ing 
the 
He 
foil 
the 
pris 
gioi 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


131 


ED. 

•er  of  London, 
is  now  the 
val  and  military 
I.  It  is  of  Nor- 
Jed  by  William 
has  since  then 
as  the  residence 
iglish  Monarchs 
is  therefore  well 
nay  be  to  others 
nteresting  place 

ways  and  across 
nent  official,  pe- 
nown  as  a  "beef 
walls,  wherein 
ever  disgraced 
acted,  and  stood 
lich  opens  into 
lames,  through 
re  once  brought 


tlie  name  of  Anne  Boleyn,  one  of  the  several 
wives  of  Henry  VIII,  whom  he  cruelly 
caused  to  be  beheaded,  is  inscribed  on  the  wall 
by  one  of  the  unhappy  gentlemen  imprisoned 
here  in  those  days,  and  who  also  lost  their  lives  on 
her  account ;  we  will  pass  by  several  towers  f 
little  or  no  interest  and  enter  the 

Beauchamp  Tower — erected  during  the  reign 
of  John,  1119,  and  Henry  HI,  1216.  This  tower 
derives  its  name  from  Thomas  de  Beauchamp, 
Earl  of  Warwick,  who  was  imprisoned  in  it  in 
1397,  and  is  the  most  interesting  of  the  whole, 
for  very  many  distinguished  prisoners  have,  from 
time  to  time,  languished  and  died  in  this  tower. 
Near  the  entrance  is  inscribed  the  name  of  Mar- 
maduke  Neville,  one  of  the  unfortunate  adherents 
to  the  cause  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots.  In  one 
of  the  recesses  is  inscribed  the  following :  "  Since 
fortune  hath  chosen  that  my  hope  should  go  to 
the  wind  to  complain,  I  wish  the  time  were  de- 
stroyed, my  planet  being  ever  sad  and  unpropi- 
tious.  Signed,  William  Tyrrel,  1541."  Near 
the  fire  place  is  the  name  of  Philip  Howard, 
Earl  of  Arundel,  and  inscribed  under  is  the  follow- 
ing: "  The  more  suflFering  with  Christ  in  this  world, 
the  more  glory  with  Christ  in  the  next  world." 
He  was  the  eldest  son  of  Thomas,  Duke  of  Nor- 
folk, who  was  beheaded  in  1572  for  aspiring  to 
the  hand  of  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  and  was  im- 
prisoned for  his  devotedness  to  the  Romish  reli- 
gion ;  he  lingered  and  died  at  the  age  of  39  in 


1- 


1.12 


O'ei   the  Atlantic. 


iiis  prison  cell.  Near  by  and  around  the  old  fire 
place  are  various  other  inscriptions,  among 
which  is  that  of  Dudley,  Earl  of  Warwick,  whose 
father  endeavored  to  place  the  crown  of  England 
on  the  head  of  Lady  Jane  Grey,  which  rash  am- 
bitious  act  (Lady  Jane  being  his  daughter-in- 
law)  deprived  him  of  his  head,  and  his  son  died 
in  prison.  In  another  recess  is  the  name  "G. 
Gyfford,  August  8th,  1586"— and  a  great  many 
rude  sculptures  of  armorial  bearings  adorn  the 
walls  of  this  tower,  the  handiwork  of  those  un- 
fortunate occupants,  who  from  time  to  time  did 
thus  wile  in  solitude  many  an  irksome  hour  away, 
and  are  now  mementos  of  those  days  when  a 
man  or  woman's  life  was  mere  bagatelle.  Well 
may  the  Lady  Jane  Grey  express  herself  in  the 
following  lines : 

"To  mortal's  common  fate  tliy  mind  resign 
My  lot  to-day  to-morrow  may  be  thine." 

Leaving  this  "chamber  of  horrors"  we  wended 
our  way  to  the  Horse  Armory,  viewing,  as  we 
went  along,  some  very  ancient  cannon,  some  of 
which  were  very  interesting,  especially  those 
constructed  of  wrought  iron  bars  welded  togeth- 
er, encircled  with  iron  hoops,  after  cask  making 
fashion;  stcme  shot  were  used  in  those  days 
(1400),  and  not  the  least  interesting  among  those 
engines  of  war  was  an  iron  gun,  which,  after 
being  300  years  in  the  bottom  of  the  sea,  was  re- 
covered by  divers,  among  other  things,  from  the 
wreck  of  the  "Mary  Rose,"  one  of  the  ships  of 
war  of  Henrj'  VIIL    The 


1 


(J 


iround  tlic  old  fire 
scriptions,  among 
>f  Warwick,  whose 
crown  of  England 
;)•,  which  rash  am- 
;  his  daughter-in- 
I,  and  his  son  died 
!  is  the  name  "  G. 
md  a  great  many 
earings  adorn  the 
ivork  of  those  un- 
1  time  to  time  did 
rksome  honr  away, 
lose  days  when  a 
re  bagatelle.  Well 
•ress  herself  in  the 

mind  resign 
ic  lliinc." 

>rrors"  we  wended 
ry,  viewing,  as  we 
t  cannon,  some  of 
,  especially  those 
firs  welded  togeth- 
after  cask  making 
ed  in  those  days 
sting  among  those 
gun,  which,  after 
of  the  sea,  was  re- 
er  things,  from  the 
ne  of  the   ships  of 


J 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


139 


to  their  tower  prison,  perhaps  never  to  leave  it  in 
this  life,  for  within  that  gate  once,  the  poor  cap- 
tive was  wholly  subject  to  the  will  and  caprice  of 
monarchial  power,  and  his  life,  for  a  given  time, 
not  worth  a  British  farthing.  It  would  be  next 
to  an  impossibility  for  man  to  describe  all  the 
black  deeds  and  treacherous  doings  committed 
here  during  the  early  history  of  England's  Kings 
and  Queens,  where  torture  and  cruelty  in  various 
ways,  the  axe  and  the  block  reigned  supreme ; 
therefore  I  will  proceed  as  we  were  shown,  and 
take  my  readers  into  the — 

White  Tower. — This  tower  is  the  oldest  and 
principal  building,  and  stands  in  the  centre  of 
the  fortification.  A  spiral  staircase  of  massive 
stone  between  walls  of  immense  thickness  leads 
into  the  various  apartments,  among  which  is  the 
prison  room  and  cell  of  Sir  Walter  Raleigh, 
wherein  he  wrote  his  history  of  the  world  ;  near 
the  entrance  to  the  cell  are  inscriptions  rudely 
cut  in  the  stones  by  Rudstow,  Fane  and  Culpep  \ 
per,  who  were  implicated  in  Sir  Thomas  Wyatt's 
rebellion  in  1553,  which  proved  so  fatal  to  Lady 
Jane  Grey,  and  for  which  Sir  Thomas  was  be- 
headed in  the  same  year.  A  large  room  on  the 
upper  floor  was  used  as  a  council  room  by  va- 
rious Kings,  a  room  of  rare  antiquity.  It  was  in 
this  room  that  the  Protector  Richard,  Duke  of 
Gloster,  ordered  Lord  Hastings  to  be  beheaded, 
ere  he,  Richard,  sat  down  to  his  dinner.  This 
room,  as  are  several  others  in  this  tower,  is  now 

E* 


i;o 


O'er  the  AllaiitU, 


,!tV 


!   \ 


used  as  a  depository   for  small  arms,  ingeniously 
arranged  so  as  to  resemble  flowers,  &c.     The 

Bi.ooDv  TowKR— is  the  scene  of  the  murder  of 
the  young  Princes,  sons  of  Edward  IV,  in 
1483-     The 

Bki.i,  Tower— wherein  is  hung  tlie  alarm  bell 
«)f  the  garrison,  was  in  olden  time  a  prison  lodg- 
ing. In  it  was  imprisoned  the  Hishop  of  Roch- 
ester by  command  of  Henry  VIII,  it  was  also 
the  lodging  place  of  Oueen  Elizabeth,  when  a 
prisoner  here  by  command  of  her  sister  Mary 
(bloody  Mary),  who  wielded  so  much  power 
during  her  eventful  reign.     The 

Dkverf.ux  Towkr— derives  its  name  from  Rob- 
ert Devereux,  Earl  of  Essex,  the  great  favorite 
of  (Jueen  Elizabeth,  who  was  confined  therein, 
and  whose  death  she  so  much  mourned,  notwith- 
standing that  he  was  executed  by  her  own  order, 
for,  it  is  said,  plotting  against  her  life.  Eliza- 
beth's great  struggle  between  resentment  and  af- 
fection, ere  she  could  sign  the  death  warrant, 
and  of  which  she  so  bitterly  repented  when  too 
late,  is  too  well  known  to  need  any  further  com- 
ments from  me  on  the  subject.     The 

BowvEK   Tower — contains    a    ghwmy    room 
wherein   George,  Duke  of  Clarence,  is   said   to 
have  been  drowned   in  a   butt  of  wine  in    1474 
The 

Brick  Tower — was  the  prison  lodging  of  Lady 
Jane  Grey,  and  the 

Martin  Tower— was  also  a   prison  lodging ; 


'■ 


*• 


♦> 


i 


inns,  ingenitjusly 
;rs,  &c.     The 
of  the  murder  of 
Edward     IV,   in 


?  the  alarm  bell 
>e  a  prison  lodg- 
Hishop  of  Roch- 
'^III,  it  was  also 
lixabeth,  when  a 
lier  sister  Mary 
>o  much    power 

name  from  Rob- 
2  great  favorite 
onfined  therein, 
>urned,  notwith- 
f  her  own  order, 
lier  life.  Eliza- 
ientment  and  af- 

death  warrant, 
•ented  when  too 
•ny  further  com- 
The 

gloomy  room 
snce,  is  said  to 
f  wine  in    1474. 


odgingof  Lady 
prison  lodging ;        i 


is- 


i 


O'lr  ilic  AUanlii. 


«3S 


are  also  exhibited  to  the  curious.  ()u  our  rt'- 
turn  through  the  Horse  Armory  from  tins  room 
our  attention  was  particularly  directed  loan  effigy 
of  Charles  I  011  horseback,  dressed  in  a  com- 
plete suit  of  rich  gilt  armor,  presented  to  him  by 
the  corporation  of  the  city  of  London,  wiiich  was 
very  beautiful  indeed.  Passing  from  here  we  next 
visited  the  fire  and  bomb  i)roof  njom  containing 
the— 

Rkoai.ia  ok  Enci.and — the  splendor  of  which 
we  will  not  attempt  to  describe.  Grouped  to- 
gether on  a  large  stand,  covered  with  crimson 
cloth  and  encircled  witli  a  massive  inm  railing, 
jealously  guarded  within  and  without,  is  the  re- 
galia of  England's  sovereigns,  comprising  the 
Victoria  Crown,  composed  of  gold  and  silver, 
diamonds  and  other  precious  stones,  the  cap  of 
which  is  purple  velvet.  St.  Edward's  Crown, 
composed  of  gold,  embellijhed  with  diamonds, 
rubies,  emeralds,  pearls,  &c.  The  Prince  of 
Wales'  crown  is  of  pure  gold  with  no  ornaments. 
The  Queen's  crown,  i.  e.,  that  worn  by  the  King's 
consort,  and  the  Queen's  diadem  made  for  the  con 
sort  of  James  II,  are  very  handsome ;  both  are 
studded  with  diamonds  of  a  large  size  and  of  the 
purest  water,  artistically  embellished  with 
the  finest  of  pearls.  St.  Edward's  staff  is  of 
gold,  four  feet  seven  inches  in  length,  and  is 
used  at  coronations,  when  it  is  carried  before  the 
King  or  Queen,  as  it  may  be.  It  is  surmounted 
by  an  orb  said   to  contain  a  portion  of  the  true 


•"f  ■ 


»36 


O'er  tht  Allantic. 


dim*  Tlie  Royal  Sceptic  is  of  jrold  adorn- 
ed with  costly  jewels.  The  Rod  of  Equity  is  of 
gold  and  ornamented  with  diamonds.  The 
(Jueen's  Sceptre  is  of  very  rich  workmanship 
beautifully  adorned  with  precious  stones.  An  Ivory 
Sceptre  was  made  for  James  II's  gueen,  and 
ancither  richly  wrought  golden  sceptre  was  made 
f«»r  William  Ill's  Queen.  Several  other  arti- 
cles, generally  used  at  coronations,  such  as 
swords,  &c.,  complete  the  regalia,  the  »alue  of 
which,  I  presume,  would  be  difficult  to  esti- 
mate. 

We  will  nf)w  take  our  leave  of  this  old  fortress, 
prison,  palace  and  armory,  with  its  secret  passag- 
es, torture  rooms,  dungeons,  cells  and  prison  lodg- 
ings, all  of  which  are  identified  with  the  dark 
ages  in  wljich  the  oldest  portion  of  it  was  built, 
and  as  we  pass  by,  pause  before  that  gloomy 
archway,  the  "Traitor's  Gate,"  where  oftentimes 
have  royalty,  nobility,  the  clergy  and  gentry 
passed  its  threshold,  to  exchange  for  the  bril- 
liancy of  court,  porv:p  and  splendor,  lofty  posi- 
tions and  the  comforts  of  home,  the  cold  and 
damp  walls  of  a  dungeon,  the  torture  room,  and 
last,  but  not  least  welcome,  the  friendly  services 
of  the  headsman.  Sad  indeed  is  thy  record,  old 
tower  ;  a  detailed  account  of  the  atrocities  com- 
mitted within  thy  walls  would  fill  volumes ;  for 
eight  kundred  years   hast  thou  served  for  various 

*The  Cross  of  our  Saviour. 


- 


l!> 


I 


O'fr  the  Atlantic, 


U3 


of  jrold  adorn- 
\  of  Equity  is  of 
iuinonds.  The 
li  W(>riini<insliip 
stories.  An  Ivory 
I's  Queen,  and 
:;eptrc  was  made 
eral  other  arti- 
ations,  such  as 
ia,  the  »alue  of 
lifficult   to   esti- 

this  old  fortress, 

ts  secret  passag- 

and  prison  lodg- 

with    the  dark 

of  it  was  buih, 

re  tliat  gloomy 

■here  oftentimes 

■gy  and  gentry 

ge  for  the  bril- 

idor,  lofty   posi- 

r,  the   cold   and 

rture  room,  and 

riendly  services 

thy  record,  old 

atrocities  com- 

11  volumes ;  for 

ved  for  various 


- 


1^ 


HoRSK  Armory— contains  on  equestrian  statues 
the  armor   worn  by   various  Kings  and  (tthers  ol 
note,  which    were  superceded   during  the  seven- 
teenth century,  by  the  general  use   of  firoaruis. 
In  this   room   has   been   collected   together  the 
armor  and  weapons  of  almost  every  age  of  Eng- 
lish history.     Numerous   military   trophies  and 
emblems  adorn  the   walls  and  ceilings,  and   the 
windows  are  of  stained  glass  embellished   with 
armorial   bearings.      The   equestrian    figures,   a 
good  representation  of  life,  occupy  the  centre  of 
the  apartment,  with    the   horses'  heads  fronting 
the  visitor,  clad  in  the   various  suits  of  armor  of 
the    period     between    the   reign   of    Edward    I 
and     James    II    (1272    to    1683),     commencing 
with  the  old  Asiatic  chain  mail  down  to  the  suits 
of    half    irmor  adopted   by   Charles    I ;  but  to 
give  a  descriptive  account  of  the   whole  would 
occupy  more  time  and  space  than  the  writer  can 
afford — the  reader   will  therefore  have  to  content 
himself  with  a  brief  description   of  No.  i,  viz., 
that  on  the  effigy  of  Edward  I,  which  is  of  chain, 
with  heavy  spurs  and  shield  of  kite  shape.     The 
figure  is   represented  in   the  act  of  drawing  his 
sword.     This  was  in  the  time  of  Bruce  and  Wal- 
lace, and  in  such  suits  were  fought,  won  and  lost 
the  fields  of  Dunbar,  Bannock-burn,  &c.     From 
this  reign  the  various  suits  on  the  other  effigies 
appear  to  change    in   style,  as  does    wearing 
apparel  of  the  present  period,  some  suits  varying 
much  in  style  and  finish.  And  there  are  upwards 
of  a  score  of  the  figures  clad  in  what  may  be 


"in 


Vi'S' 


Ill 


)•! 


ii 


134 


O'lr  the  Alliinti,-. 


termed  the  richest  style  of  armor,  among  which 
IS  that  u-orii  formerly  by  llcnrv,  Prinre  of  Wales, 
son  of  James  I,  in  ,6ii.  There  are  also  sev- 
eral very  line  suits  of  f„reign  armor  deposited  here, 
VIZ.,  Turkish,  Greek,  Chinese,  Japanese,  Roman, 
&r.  Ancient  battle  axes,  swords,  spears,  daggers, 
anelaces,  spurs,  helmets,  gauntlets,  powder-horns 
and  sundry  pieces  of  armor  occupv  prominent 
p(»si»ions  in  this  and  adjoining  rooms. 

Fn  a  room  adjoining  that  called  Queen  Eli/a- 
beth's  Armory  arc  als(,  many  beautiftd  specimens 
of  old  armor,   and   the  first   thing   that  attract- 
ed our  attention  were  two  figures  clad  in  elegant 
and  very  bright  armor,  and  a  part  of  the  keel  of 
the  ship  of  war  "Royal  George,"  which   sank  at 
Spithead   when  at  anchor  there  in  August,  1782 
This  apartment  is  devoted  almost  exclusively  to 
oriental   arms  and  armor,  military   trophies,  &c., 
among  which  are  several  from    Waterloo,  1815, 
kettle  drums  from  Blenheim,  1704,  and  a  host  of 
others  from    India  and  other  places  where  the 
British  arms  have  been  triumphant.     Here  we 
saw  the  sword  and  sash  of  the  late  Duke  of  York, 
the  cloak  of  Gen.  Wolfe,  which   he   wore  when 
killed  at  Quebec  in  1759,  and  in 

guEEN  Ei.izABKTH's  Akmokv-wc  wcrc  shown 
the  beheading  block  whereon  Lords  Balmerino, 
Kilmarnock  and  Lovat  were  beheaded  in  1746, 
and  the  axe  used  on  the  occasion  ;  thumb  screws 
and  other  instruments  of  torture  and  punishment 
so  often  used  in  those  days  to  extort  confession, 


h 


%  among  which 
'rinrc  of  Wales, 
:  are  also  scv- 
r  deposited  here, 
panesc,  Roman, 
spears,  daggers, 
5,  powder-horns 
npy  pronnnent 
ums. 

d  Oueen  Eli/a- 
itifiil  specimens 
g   that  attract- 
clad  in  elegant 
t  of  the  keel  of 
which   sank  at 
>  August,  1782. 
exclusively  to 
■   trophies,  &c., 
Vaterloo,  18 15, 
,  and  a  host  of 
COS  where  the 
int.     Here  we 
Duke  of  York, 
le   wore  when 

e  were  shown 
ds  Balmerino, 
aded  in  1746, 
thumb  screws 
id  punishment 
>rt  confession, 


O'lr  Ihe  Atlantic, 


»37 


purposes  ir'  H-hicii  lime  the  renowned,  the 
notorious  anil  die  innocent  have  pined  witliin 
thy  walls  until  grim  death  generously  relieved 
them  of  thy  forced  hospitality  ;  and  could  thy 
chapel,  wherein  rests  so  many  of  thy  victims,  hut 
deliver  up  its  dead  to  life,  much  could  be  related 
of  thee  and  thy  keepers  which  has  never  been 
committed  to  history. 

In  my  next  I  will  request  my  readers  to  ac- 
company me  to  Hampton  Court,  and  Windsor 
Castle. 


I 


|.^i!i,il 


138 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


I 


LETTER  XIII. 

ENGLAND,  CONTINUED. 

Hampton  Court.— Having  been  permitted  to 
emerge  in  safety  from  the  confines  of  tiie  old  Tow- 
er, we  the  following  day  went  by  rail  to  Hampton 
Court.     This  palatial  residence  is  situated  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  river  Thames,  twelve  miles  out 
of  London,   and  was  built  by  Thomas,  Cardinal 
Wolsey,    during    the    reign   of   Henry     VIII., 
whose  Prime  Minister  he  was  for  some  time ;  I 
may  say  minister  and  fjvvorite,  for  Wolsey  during 
his  days  of  clover  was  the  readiest  of  all  that 
monarch's  council    to    advance    his    capricious 
whims,  and  lewd,  barbarous  conduct,  in  return  for 
which,  all  matters  of  state  fell  to  his  goverance 
alone  i  indeed,  such  was  his  rule  that  he  became 
supreme,  and  such  was  the  power  he  wielded 
over  King  and  Court,  that  he  affected  to  govern 
without  Parliaments,   two  of  which   were  only 
held  for  fourteen  years.     He  was  for  many  rea- 
sons the  disgrace  of  his  profession,   "being  lewd 
and  vicious  himsglf,  and  serving  the  King  (says 
his  biographer)   in  all  his  secret  pleasures;  his 


«- 


»^ 


pri 
in 
do 

OM 

ed 
to 
"1 
be 
Ki 
th^ 
Ai 

W{ 

fli 
or 

»F 
fo 

Pi 

an 

en 

af 

ui 

hi 

se 

K 

hi 

K 

in 

ui 
be 
th 
es 


ic. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


139 


I. 


JED. 


)een  permitted  to 
esoftheoldTow- 
y  rail  to  Hampton 

is  situated  on  the 
,  twelve  miles  out 
rhomas,  Cardinal 
f  Henry  VHI., 
for  some  time ;  I 
ix  Wolsey  during 
idlest  of  all  that 
J  his  capricious 
liuct,  in  return  for 

to  his  goverance 
J  that  he  became 
)wer  he  wielded 
fected  to  govern 
t'hich  were  only 
as  for  many  rea- 
on,  "being  lewd 
\  the  King  (says 
et  pleasures;  his 


'^ 


pride  and  pomp  was  unbounded  and  his  ambition 
in  proportion,  for  he  even  aspired  to  the  Pope- 
dom, which  he  failed  to  obtain.  He  became  the 
owner  of  vast  possessions  and  his  income  exceed- 
ed the  revenues  of  the  Crown,  thus  enabling  him 
to  live  in  the  most  princely  style;"  but  it  is  a 
"  long  lane  that  has  no  turning,"  for  he  at  last 
became  unpopular  with  his  libertine  master,  the 
King,  and,  eventually,  a  matter  connected  with 
the  divorce  of  Queen  Catharine  (Catharine  of 
Arragon)  and  other  matters  wherein  the  King 
was  directly  interested,  shook  his  power  and  in- 
fluence to  that  extent  over  his  Royal  master,  that 
on  October  28,  1529,  he  was  commanded  to  give 
up  the  great  seal,  and  his  goods  were  all  seized 
for  the  King's  use  and  himself  impeached  in 
Parliament  for  exercising  jower  contrarj-  to  law, 
and  for  the  scandalous  irregularities  of  his  life.  His 
enemies  continued  to  revile  him,  and  disaster 
after  disaster  followed  him  until  he  died,  when 
under  arrest  for  treason,  November  29,  1530.  In 
his  last  moments  he  "  regretted  that  he  had  not 
served  God  with  the  same  fidelity  that  he  had  his 
King."  A  little  before  he  died  he  addressed  him- 
himself  in  the  following  words  to  Sir  William 
Kingston,  Constable  of  the  tower,  who  had  him 
in  custody : 

"  I  pray  you  have  me  fieartily  recommended 
unto  his  royal  majesty,  and  beseech  him  on  my 
behalf  to  call  to  his  remembrance  all  matters 
that  have  passed  between  us  from  the  beginning, 
especially   with  regard  to  his  business  with  the 


i] 


i,,f- 


%, 


140 


OW  the  AthntU. 


Queen,  arid   then  he  will  know  in  his  conscience 
whether  I  have  offended  him. 

"He  is  a  prince  of  a  most  royal  carriage,  and 
liath  a  princely  heart  and  rather  than  he  will 
miss  or  want  any  part  of  his  will,  he  will  endan- 
ger  the  one-half  of  his  kingdom.  I  do  assure 
you  that  I  have  often  kneeled  before  him,  some 
times  three  hours  .together,  to  persuade  him  from 
his  will  and  appetite,  but  could  not  prevail. 
Iherefore,  let  me  advise  you,  if  you  be  one  of 
tae  privy  council,  as  by  your  wisdom  you  are  fit, 
take  care  what  you  put  into  the  King's  head,  for 
you  can  never  put  it  out  again."— C«m/rt'/V//. 

Thus  ended  the  days  of  the  man  who  from 
poverty  raised  himself  to  be  prime  minister  of 
England,  the  favorite  of  Emperors,  Kings  and 
Princes,  and  the  terror  of  thousands.  A  man 
who  wielded  such  power  and  influence  as  but 
few  if  any  but  Richlieu  of  France  ever  did, 
and  to  whom,  history,  perhaps  has  not  done  just 
ice.  I  will  now  proceed  to  give  a  brief  descrip. 
tion  of  his  once  princely  residence  : 

Hampton  Court,  long  before  VVolsey  became 
disgraced,  but  about  the  time  the  King  began  to 
be  jealous  of  the  pomp  and  splendor  he  lived  in, 
suddenly  became  the  property  of  the  latter. 
Stowe  remarks  of  the  circumstance  thus :  " The 
princely  residence  began  to  create  envy  at  court. 
The  King  therefore  took  occasion  to'  question 
the  Cardinal  as  to  his  intentions  of  building  a 
palace  that  so  far  surpassed  any  of  the  royal  pal- 
aces in  England,"  to  which  the  Cardinal  cun- 
ningly replied  "that  he  was  onlv  trving  to  form 


. 


a  rei 
that 
Kinj 
him 

of  SI 

fjrt 

not 

the  I 

vori 

favo 

leig 

beer 

of  .. 

well 

here 

Jane 

davs 

VII 

the  I 

shor 

aboi 

live( 

beer 

gon( 

was 

Catl 

fate 

csca 

port 

cal, 

ceas 


L 


in  his  conscience 

yal  carriage,  and 
ler  than  he  will 
11,  he  will  endan- 
>ni.     I  do  assure 
before  him,  some 
irsuade  him  from 
jld    not   prevail. 
f  you  be  one  of 
sdom  you  are  fit, 
King's  head,  for 
— Cavendish. 
man   who  from 
rime  minister  of 
rors,  Kings  and 
usands.     A  man 
influence  as  but 
ranee  ever  did, 
as  not  done  just 
a  brief  descrip. 
;;e : 
VVolsey  became 

King  began  to 
idor  he  lived  in, 

of  the  latter, 
cethus:  "The 
e  envy  at  court, 
on  to  question 
s  of  building  a 
if  the  royal  pal- 

Cardinal  cun- 

trying  to  form 


O'et  the  Atlantic. 


141 


a  residence  worthy  of  so  great  a 'monarch,  and 
that  Hampton  Court  palace  was  the  property  of 
King  Henry  the  VUI."  This  princely  gift  gained 
him  much  favor,  and  was  the  immediate  means 
of  supporting  his  waning  influence.  In  return 
f  jr  this  generous  present  Henry,  who  determined 
not  to  be  outdone  in  generosity,  bestowed  upon 
the  Cardinal  the  Manor  of  Richmond,  an  old  fa- 
vorite residence  of  Henry  VH,  and  with  him  a 
favorite  resort  also,  during  the  early  part  of  his 
reign.  Since  which  time  Hampton  Court  has 
been  the  residence  of  several  of  the  monarchs 
of  England,  as  also  that  of  Oliver  Crom- 
well smd  his  family.  Henry  VI  was  born 
here  O  b?r  12th,  1537,  and  his  mother, 
Jane  Sc^'.  gjif'  only  survived  his  birth  a  few 
days.  S^  •  is  one  of  the  wives  of  Henry 
VIII,  and  WHS  married  to  the  brute  the  day  afttr 
the  unfortunate  Anne  Boleyn  was  beheaded;  but 
short  was  her  reign  as  Queen,  for  she  died  in 
about  a  year  after  her  marriage.  And  had  she 
lived  much  longer  the  probability  would  have 
been  that  she,  like  her  predecessors,  would  have 
gone  headless  to  the  grave.  Catharine  Howard 
was  his  next  Queen  at  Hampton  Court,  and 
Catharine  Parr  followed  ;  the  former  shared  the 
fate  of  Anne  Boleyn,  and  the  latter  but  narrowly 
escaped  it  also,  but  ere  another  op- 
portunity offered  for  her  decapitation,  the  tyrani- 
cal,  obstinate,  unfeeling  and  lewd  Henry  VIII 
ceased  to  exist  in  this  life. 


i'f^l 


I'r 


142 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


,1  \m- 
'  01 


Numerous  Kings  and  Queens  continued  to 
spend  a  great  portion  of  their  time  at  Hampton 
Court,  until  the  reign  of  George  II,  who,  ac- 
companied  by  his  Queen,  Caroline,  were  the  last 
of  royalty  who  resided  there. 

In  its  present  state  Hampton  Court  is  occupied 
partly  by  private  individuals,  pensioners  upon 
the  Royal  bounty  of  the  Crown,  principally,  in- 
deed,  I   may  say  all.     Ladies  of  rank  without 
wealth,  in  plain  English,  empty  title  ladies,  whose 
sires  or  husbands  have  faithfully   served   their 
country,  leaving  nothing  but  a  good  record  and  a 
name  behind  them  at  the  time  of  their  death. 
Apart  from  the  rooms  allotted  to  their  use  arc 
the  state  apartments,  open   to  the  public  gratui- 
tously on  every  day  of  the  week  except  Friday, 
as  are  also    the  beautiful   and    very  extensive 
grounds  which  surround  it. 

In  the  state  apartments  are  to  be  seen  beautiful 
and  ancient  tapestry,  embracing  Scriptural  and 
other  subjects.  Oil  paintings,  by  various  masters, 
ot    Monarchs,  Princes,  nobilitj',  and  officers  of 
the  army  and  navy,  battle  and  scriptural  scenes, 
&c.,  some  of  which  are  by  the  most  eminent  art- 
ists of  their  time.     There  are  also  in  addition  to 
the  paintings  very  ancient  furniture,  such  as  mir- 
rors,  bedsteads,  tables,  and  among  which  is  the 
state  bed  and  hangings  of  Queen  Anne,  a  clock 
which  goes  for  twelve  months  without  winding, 
some  fine  specimens  of  crockery  and  a  variety  of 
other  equally  interesting  relics. 


rr. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


>43 


ins  continued  to 
time  at  Hampton 
rge  II,  who,  ac- 
line,  were  the  last 

Court  is  occupied 
pensioners  upon 
n,  principally,  in- 

of  rank  without 
:itle  ladies,  whose 
illy  served  their 
:ood  record  and  a 
i  of  their  death. 

to  their  use  arc 
le  public  gratui- 
k  except  Friday, 

very  extensive 

ae  seen  beautiful 
Scriptural  and 

various  masters, 
and  oificers  of 

;riptural  scenes, 

ost  eminent  art- 

0  in  addition  to 
ire,  such  as  mir- 
ig  which  is  the 

1  Anne,  a  clock 
ithout  winding, 
ind  a  variety  of 


The  writer  having  taken  his  readers  hurriedly 
through  this  ancient  palace,  for  to  give  in  detail 
what  is  to  be  seen  there,  would,  as  he  has  had  oc- 
casion to  remark  heretofore,  "occupy  too  mucli 
time  and  space,"  will  therefore  have  to  request 
his  readers  to  accompany  him  to  a  palace  of  still 
more  grandeur  and  antiquity ;  viz :  that  of — 

Windsor  Castle. — This  immense  palace  is. 
without  exception,  the  finest  and  largest  of  the 
Royal  residences  in  the  united  Kingdom,  and  so 
vast  is  its  size  that  it  may  be  termed  a  town  in 
itself 

It  was  first  intended  for  a  fortress  by  William 
the  Conqueror.  Henry  I  enlarged  it  consid- 
erably, and  in  1170  Henry  II  held  a  Parlia- 
ment there,  at  which  William,  King  of  Scotland, 
and  his  brother  David. were  present.  Edwards 
I  and  II  made  it  their  constant  residence.  In 
1344  Edward  III  made  vast  improvements 
and  additions  to  it.  It  was  this  Prince  who  here 
instituted  the  order  of  the  garter  on  St.  George's 
day  with  much  pomp  and  ceremony  in  1349.  Ed- 
ward IV  rebuilt  on  a  large  scale  the  beautiful 
chapel  of  St.  George,  and  Henrys  VII  and 
VIII  did  much  to  enlarge  and  beautify  the  build- 
ings and  grounds.  Queen  Mary  and  her  consort, 
Philip  of  Spain,  made  a  grand  entry  into  it  in 
1545,  after  their  marriage  at  Winchester.  Eliza- 
beth, Charles  I  and  II,  William  III,  George 
III,  and  especially  George  IV  have  con- 
tributed much  to  the  improvement  and  enlarge- 


I 


I. 


Il' 


fil 


144 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


iiieiit  ot  Windsor  Castle,  but  to  the  latter  tlic 
very    magnificent    alteration    made   during    hts 
leign.  will  for  ages  untold  be  a  monument  to  his 
memory.     What  remained  unfinished  at  the  time 
of  his  demise  were  completed   bv  William    IV 
and  her  present  majesty  Queen  Victoria.     The 
whole  ot  those  Improvements,  it  is  said,  cost  up. 
wards  of  one  million  pounds  sterling,  and  still 
mechanics  are  at  work  adding,  embellishing,  re- 
pairing  and  keeping  in  repair  this  ancient  and 
very  interesting  structure. 

TlK-  Queen  and  the  late  Prince   con.sort  sur- 
rounded   by   their  family  (,ftentimes   retired  to 
Windsor  from  the  gaiety  and  pleasures  of  Lon- 
don      Indeed,  Her  Majesty  had  but  left  the  Castle 
on  the  day  previous  to  our  visit,  for  her  Scottish 
residence   Balmoral,   in   the   north  of  Scotland 
where   she  generally   spends  cverv   year  a  few' 
weeks  among  her  loyal  and  loving  Scotch  subjects. 
Having    obtained     our    cards    of    admission 
through  a  friend  before  leaving  London,  we  were 
soon  ushered  into  the  state  apartments,  first  reg- 
istering our  names  on  the  visitors'  book  as  we 
entered  the  lobby,  where  stood  one  of  Her  Maj- 
esty's servants  clad  in  the  Roval  livery,  that  of 
scarlet  turned   up  with  gold   lace,      the  state 
apartments,  the  round  tower  and   St.  George's 
chapel  are  all  that  are  shown  during  Her  Majes- 
ty s  absence.     The  private  apartments,  i.  e.,  those 
wherein  she  resides,  setting  royalty,  I  may   say. 
aside,  can  only  be  seen  during  the  time  that  the 
court  IS  here. 


O'lr  the  Atlitiitic. 


'45 


to  the  latter  tlie 
lade  during  his 
monument  to  his 
Jshed  at  tlie  time 

by  William  IV 
I  Victoria.    The 

is  said,  cost  u|  ■• 
eriing,  and  still 
:mbellishing,  rc- 
his  ancient  and 

ce  consort  sur- 
;inies  retired  to 
easures  of  Lon- 
iit  left  the  Castle 
for  her  Scottish 
th  of  Scotland, 
ery  year  a  few- 
Scotch  subjects. 

of  admission 
ondon,  we  were 
nents,  first  reg- 
rs'  book  as  we 
le  of  Her  Mnj- 

livery,  that  of 
ce.  The  state 
J  St.  George's 
ng  Her  Majes- 
snts,  i.  e.,  those 
Ity,  I  may  say, 
B  time  that  the 


\Vc:  first  eiUfretl  tlie  iuidiciuc  cliaiubfr,  the 
walls  of  which  are  lumi?  with  fine  (iobcrlin  tapes- 
try, illustrative  i)artly  of  tlie  history  of  ()ueeii 
Ksther  and  Monlecai,  d  oil  iritings  o1"  Wil- 
liam II.  Frederick,  Pr  i^cot  '^e,  ami  Marv, 
Oueen  of  Scots.  Next  is  the  .iiuiyke  room, 
containing  about  tliirty  beaiilifiil  portraits  by  liie 
eminent  artist  of  that  name;  lliey  represent 
Kings,  Queens,  Princes,  nobles  ami  others. 

The  State  Drawing  room  contains  a  few  very 
fine  Scriptural  iiaintings  and  Royal  portraits  by 
RuccaroUi. 

The  Staie  .\iite-room,  ilie  ceiling  of  which  is 
painted  by  \'erri,  representing  a  bantpiet  of  the 
(iods,  contains  some  very  fine  carving,  and  a 
stained  glass  portrait  of  (Jeorge  111  is  placed 
over  the  fireplace.  I'rom  here  we  passed  over 
the  grand  staircase  int(»  the  vestibule  wliicli  con- 
tains military  trophies  and  suits  of  armor  highly 
interesting,  and  then  entered  the — 

Waterloo  Chamber,  an  elegant  large  room. 
tJn  the  walls  are  hung  various  portraits  by  Sir 
Thomas  Lawrence,  among  which  is  a  very  fine 
one  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  as  he  appeared 
in  the  city  on  the  day  of  thanksgiving  after  the 
battle  of  Waterloo,  s<»  fatal  to  the  interest  of  the 
first  Napoleon,  but  the  meaii;*of  restoring  peace 
and  confidence  in  Europe. 

The  Presence  Chamber,  the  carving  and  glid- 
ing in  this  room  is  grand,  and  the  walls  are  hung 
with  the  finest  and  richest  of  CJobelin  tapestry, 
descriptive  of  the  history  <^f  the  golden  fleece. 

K 


M 


i, 


1 


146 


O'tr  the  Atlantic. 


In  my  next  I  will  give  to  my  readers  the  re- 
mainder of  what  we  saw  in  Windsor  Castle  as 
also  what  other  sights  and  scenes  we  saw  during 
our  stay  in  the  great  metropolis  of  Great  Britain, 
and  then  leave  its  hospitable  shore  for  a  while  to 
visit  France. 


UJdassjtt  asaAxttBtt-anH 


he. 


my  readers  the  re- 
kVindsor  Castle,  as 
nes  ue  saw  during 
s  of  Great  Britain, 
lore  for  a  while  to 


O'er  lite  AUanti( 


«47 


LETTKR  XiV. 

F.Ndl.ANl),  COMINl  111. 

VViMisdk  ("Asrr.K,  Continued. — From  tlie  "Pres- 
ence Chiimber"  wc  were  conducted  into  St. 
George  s  Hall,  a  rf)oni  two  luindred  feet  long,  thir- 
ty-four feet  hruad  and  tliirtv-two  feet  liigh.  It  is 
the  grand  banqueting  hall,  tne  ceiling  is  deco- 
rated with  the  armorial  bearings  of  all  tlie  knights 
of  the  garter  up  to  the  present  tinn;,  and  on  the 
walls  are  many  fine  portraits  in  oil  of  all  the 
Sovereigns  frf)ni  James  I  to  (rcorge  IV'. 
The  Guixni  Chambir  contains  arms  and  specimens 
of  ancient  armor  very  ingeniously  arranged  on 
the  walls,  and  there  are  several  life-like  efligies, 
armed  cap-a-pie.,  huce  in  hand,  and  busts  of 
Wellington  and  Marlborough,  over  the  heads  of 
which  are  placed  silk  banners,  regularly  renewed 
on  the  anniversaries  of  the  battles  of  Waterloo 
and  Blenheim.  Over  the  fire  place  is  the  beau- 
tiful shield,  in  a  glass  case,  which  was  presented 
by  Frances  I,  of  France,  to  Henry  VIII» 
on  the  field  of  the  Cloth  of  Gold,  so  called  from 
the  gorgeous  and    magnificent  display  made  on 


,—     1, 


148 


(Ter  ihr  Atlantic, 


tl)at  occasion  by  tliusc  Monanlis  and  their 
retinues,  when  tiiey  met  socially  between  the  two 
towns  named  Guisnes  and  Ardrcs,  i.i  |-iiince.  in 
1320,  where  also  "tlie  nobility  of  France  and 
JCngland"  displayed  their  iiiagnilicence  with  such 
emulation  and  profuse  expense,  as  to  procure  for 
llic  pl.-ke  of  interview  I  hi-  name  of  "  the  Field 
of  tlie  Cloth  of  (iold." 

Among  numerous  other  relics  and   curiosities 
in  this  Chamber   are  two  chairs,  one  made  from 
tile  oak  of  Alloway  Kirk  (immortalized  by  Uurns 
in  his  poem  of  Tam  O'Shanter  and  Souter  John- 
ny), and  the  other   from  the   oak  tree  where  the 
Duke  of  Wellington  and  siaflf  st.jod  while  direct- 
ing the  battle  of  Waterloo.     Die  Queens  Presence 
Cliamber  was  the  last  room  we  were  shown  into, 
the   ceiling   of  which   is  beautifully   painted  by 
V'errio,  representing  Calh.iriMe,  Outen  of  Ct  arles 
If.    supported    by    Religion.    Prudence,     Forti- 
tude, and   other   virtues  attending   her.  and  the 
walls  are  hung  with  gobelin  tapestry,  containing 
the  illustrative  history  (as  in  the  Audience  Cham- 
ber) of  Queen    Kstiier  and  Mordecai.     We  next 
proceeded  to  view  .SV.  Georjrc's  Chapel,  the  cxtericjr 
of  which  bears  on  us  face  the  marks  of  old  age, 
and  entered  just  as  preparations  were  being  made 
to  hold  the  regular  afternoon  service.    So  imitat- 
ing the  example  sot  us  by  other  visitors,  we  ap- 
jjropriated  to  ourselves   seats,  and    were  shortly 
afterwards  silent  listeners  to  the  most  beautiful 
chanting  f  ever  heard,  the  fine  undulating  tones 


' 


— "  1, 


[irths  and  their 
betWL'cn  the  two 
'cs,  ill  i"iiiiu(.'.  ill 
of  France  and 
licence  witli  such 
lis  to  procure  for 
e  of  "  the   Field 

:  and   curiosities 
one  made  from 
talized  by  Burns 
nd  Soiiter  Jolni. 
:   tree  where  tiie 
lod  uhiledirect- 
(Jutfu's  Prcseiici: 
t'cre  shown  into, 
nlly    painted  by 
hii'cn  (jf  Cf.arles 
iiideiue,     Forti- 
ig   her.  and  the 
srry,  containinir 
Viidience  Cliain- 
ecai.     We  next  . 
'/'/,  the  exterior 
arics  of  old  age, 
•ere  being  made 
nee.    So  imitat- 
visitors,  we  ap- 
d    were  shortly 
most  beautiful 
idiilating  tones 


' 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


149 


of  the  organ  and  the  voices  of  sonic  of  the  jiivi'- 
nile  chanters  being  of  tlie  most  exquisite  kind. 
Tiic  service  was  in  full  cathedral  style,  and  was 
coiifkicted  with  imicli  soli  iiinity ;  indeed,  it  was 
a  solemn  and  grand  manner  of  worshiping 
Almighty  God,  whicli  even  of  itself  amplv  repaid 
me  for  visiting  Windsor  Castle. 

Divine  w<irsliip  being  over  we  proceeded  to 
view  all  that  was  interesting  within  this  ancient 
edifice.  The  carving  in  oak  and  stone  are  very 
fine,  as  are  also  the  stained  and  painted  windows, 
especially  that  recently  erected  b)  the  Queen  to 
the  memory  of  the  Prince  Consort,  to  whom  she 
was  devotedly  attached  and  whose  meiuory  she 
has  never  ceased  to  mourn.  A  tribute  his  mem- 
ory is  not  undeserving  of,  for  he  was  not  only  a 
great  man  but  a  good  man,  beloved  by  all,  al- 
fable  and  kind,  and  in  every  respect  fitted  for  the 
proud  position  he  was  destined  to  fill  while  on 
earth.*  A  character  his  children  would  do  well 
to  emulate,  especially  the  Prince  of  Wales,  who 
will  sooner  or  later  have  to  play  an  important 
part  in  the  State  affairs  of  Great  Britain. 

The  choir  wherein  divine  service  is  held  is  the 
place  where  the  knights  of  the  garter  are  in- 
stalled, and  over  each  of  their  stalls  (sitting 
pl.'ices)  is  suspended  each  knight's  respective 
banner  with  his  armorial  bearings  emblazoned 
thereon,  directly  under  which  is  placed  the  liel- 

■•  The  Prince,  during  his  lifetime,  wr.s  very  partial  to 
Windsor,  and  made  it  his  principal  and  favorite  residence. 


■"•-*     t, 


»5o 


O'lf  the  Atlantic. 


met,  crest,  sword  and  mantle,  and  at  the  hack  of 
each  stall  is  a  hrass  lacquered  plate,  inscribetl 
with  the  name,  title  .-ind  stvic  of  each  of  the  fol- 
lowers  ..(  St.  (Jeorge.  A  /rrcat  manv  of  such 
plates  adorn  the  hiicks  of  some  of  the  stalls. 
wherc(>n  :ire  recorded  the  names  of  those  knights 
who  haVc  from  time  to  time  jr„ne  to  that  world 
where  titk  and  styh  availeth  them  not.  and  on 
the  several  windows  of  the  choir  are  also  painted 
their  respci  live  coats  of  arms. 

'J'lu-  Qiii-ens  Closet,  muX    the  stalls  wherein    sit 
the  various   mcmlu-rs  u\  the    Roval    familv   are 
eagerly    sou^dit   fur  and    scrutinized    cl..seiv    by 
visitors,  and  lastly  the  various  tombs  are  visited. 
'J  he  royal  tomb  or  vault  is  near  the  altar,  and  I 
Avas    informed    only    contains    the    remains   of 
Charles    I,   Ifenry   VIII     and     Jane     Sevmour. 
Various  others  of  the  n.yal  familv  beinsr  interred 
elsewhere.     In  a  small  chapel  is  a  splendid  mar- 
ble monument  to  the  memory  of  that  most  ex- 
cellent and  estimable  lady  the  Princess  Charlotte, 
wife  of  the  late    Kini,-  Leopold,  of  1  Milium      It 
represents  the  body   of  the   deceased  on  a  bier, 
covered  with  drapery,  uitl.  an  attendant  at  each 
corner  kneeling   in  despondency  and  sorrow  ;  in 
the  back  ground  is  represented  the  spirit  ascend- 
ing, supported  by  two  angels,  one  of  whom  bears 
aloft   her   infant   child.     This   elegant   piece  of 
workmanship  appears   to  great  advantage  fronj 
the  reflection  of  the  stained  glass  window  of  the 
little  chapel,  which  diffuses  a  beautiful  soft  gold- 


\ 


O'er  the  Athnlic. 


'5« 


M(l  at  the  hack  of 
I  ph'Ui',  inscrihc'd 
f  each  of  the  foU 
it  many  (if  such 
ne  of  the  stalls, 
ol"  those  knights 
ne  to  that  world 
em  not.  and  on 
•  are  also  painted 

alls  wherein  sit 
oyal  family  are 
i/ed  closely  hv 
jnihs  are  visited. 

the  altar,  and  I 
the  remains  of 
Jane  Seymour, 
y  beinsj  interred 
a  splendid  mar- 
if  that  most  ex- 
ncess  ('harlottc, 
;)f  lkl<rium.  It 
;ase(l  on  a  bier, 
tendant  at  each 
and  sorrow ;  in 
le  spirit  ascend- 
of  whom  bears 
egant  piece  of 
idvantage  fronj 

window  of  the 
itiful  soft  gold- 


\ 


en  light  around.  There  are  several  other  very 
line  monuments  there,  tine  recently  erected  by 
order  of  the  ^}ueen  to  the  memory  of  the  hus- 
band of  the  Princess  Charlotte  ("Leopold,  King 
of  the  Belgians.")  who  was  the  (Jueen's  uncle, 
and  several  others  ti>  the  memory  of  others  of 
the  royal  family,  military  and  naval  heroes,  &i:. 
And  beneath  a  lofty  stone  called  the  royal  tomb- 
house  erectetl  by  Henry  V'lII,  are  the  re- 
mains of  the  Princess  Amelia,  1810 — Princess 
Charlotte,  1818 — Duke   of  Kent,    1820 — George 

III,  1820 Duke     of      York,     1827 George 

IV,  1830— William  iV,  1837— Princess  Au- 
gusta, 1820,  and  the  Dowager  Queen  Adelaide, 
1849.  The  "Duke  of  Kent"  was  the  father  of 
the  present  Queen,  and  had  he  been  permitted  to 
survive  "William  IV',"  would  have  been 
King  of  Great  Britain ;  hence,  why  his  only 
child,  Victoria,  became  Queen,  a  position  she  has 
filled  for  thirty  years  with  the  greatest  honor 
and  credit,  respected  and  beloved  both  at  home 
and  abroad.  The  Dutchess  of  Kent  (the  Queen's 
mocher)  and  Prince  Albert  are  interred  in  the 
vault  at  Frogmore  Jjouse,  the  late  residence  (if 
the  Dutchess,  which  is  also  open  to  visitors,  but 
time  would  not  permit  of  our  going  there. 

Before  leaving  Windsor  Castle  we  visited  the 
Round  Tower  and  Terrace  grounds.  One  hun- 
dred steps,  then  a  wide  spiral  stairway,  and  as 
many  more,  perhaps  double  the  quantity  of  stops 
brought  us  to  the  top  of  the  former,  and  fium 


,.-.*~.-  I, 


'5-'       '  0\'r  the  Atlantic. 

wliicli  we  obtained  an  excellent  view  of  tlie  Cas- 
tle and  grounds,  and  also  of  the  several  counties 
of  Berks,  Bucks,  Surrey,  Middlesex,  Oxford, 
Hants,  Wilts.  Es.sex,  Flertford,  Bedford  and 
Kent.  From  tlie  flagstaff  tov/ering  high  above 
us  is  hoisted  to  the  breeze,  while  Her  Majesty 
resides  in  the  castle,  the  royal  standard,  and  we 
were  informed  that  in  apartments  in  this  tower. 
David,  King  of  Scotland  and  France,  and  the 
Farl  of  Surrey  were  confined.  At  present  it  is 
converted  into  apartments  for  the  accommoda- 
tion of  visitors,  &c. 

While  on  the  terrace  we  obtained  an  excellent 
view  of  the  winding  river,  "old  father  Thames," 
and  of  Eaton  College,  founded  in  1440  by  Henry 
^'I,    so    popular    as  one  of    the    upper  schools 
(jf  England.     We  also  saw  a  monster  cannon  im- 
ported   from    China,  which    weighs   over   seven 
tons.     Many  other  things  worthy  of  note  arc  to 
be  seen    ii  and   around    Windsor  Castle,  for   in- 
stance, the  royal  mews  (Queen's  stables),  riding 
school,  gardens,  the  home  Park,  Frogmore  lodge. 
Ascot  race  course,  Virginia  water,  &c.     But  alas, 
we  had  no  time  to  visit  those  places,  so  had  re- 
luctantly to  bid  old  Windsor  and  its  fine  castle 
farewell,  and  take  the  six  p.  m.  train  for  London, 
via.  Paddington,   thence  by  the   "Metropolitan 
underground  railway"  to  Moorgate  street  in  the 
city,  near  to  our  hotel  in  Basinghall  street,  where 
we  arrived  quite  fatigued,  yet  well  satisfied  with 
our  trip  to  Windsor. 


t,. 


O'er  the  Atlanlit. 


»S3 


;  view  of  tlie  Cas- 
e  several  counties 
iddlescx,  Oxford, 
rd,  Bedford  and 
ering  high  above 
hile  Her  Majesty 

standard,  and  we 
nts  in  this  tower, 

France,  and  the 
At  present  it  is 

the  accommoda- 

ined  an  excellent 
I  father  Thames," 
in  1440  by  Henry 
e    upper  schools 
nster  cannon  im- 
ighs  over   seven 
hy  of  note  are  to 
jr  Castle,  for   in- 
s  stables),  riding 
Frogmore  lodge, 
-•r,  &c.     But  alas, 
(laces,  so  had  re- 
nd its  fine  castle 
rain  for  London, 
;   "Metropolitan 
fute  street  in  the 
lall  street,  where 
ell  satisfied  with 


!  will  now  have  to  "make  a  long  story  short," 
contenting  myself  with  giving  my  readers  but  a 
brief  account  of  the  other  places  we  visited  dur- 
ing    our    stay     in     London,    some    of    which 
were   very   interesting.      I    will   first   name   the 
British  Museum,  and  let  me  here  remark  that  n(. 
person  should  visit  London  without  going  to  see 
this  lioneycomb  of  antiquities  and  rare  curiosi- 
ties,   to     enumerate    which    would    occupy    a 
lifetime  of  scores  of  years.     Suffice  it  to  say  that 
it  contains  in  part,  mummies,  skeletons  of  ani- 
mals,  stuffed  birds,  ancient  and  modern   coins, 
minerals,  precious  stones,  golden  nuggets,  gold 
dust,   ancient    and    modern    sculpture,   ancient 
tombs  from  Asia,  quaint  ar  d  costly  relics  from 
Nineveh,  ancient  documents,  letters,  seals,  books, 
pictures,  statuary   and  hosts  of  other   remarka- 
ble,  nay,  astonishing,   things  of  the   past   ages, 
dating    back    thousands   of    years    beyond    the 
christian  era.     To   do  justice  to  which,  months 
should  be  spent  by  the  visitor  and  antiquarian  in 
exploring  this  seat  of  wonder,  containing  won- 
ders ;   and  if  you  should  want   to   see  anythinr; 
that  the   human  mind    can  think   of,  go   to  the 
British  Museum,  and  I  verily  believe   you  will 
find  it  there. 

I  will  now  proceed  to  give  an  equally  brief  ac- 
count of  Sydenham  Crystal  Palace,  the  most  mag- 
nificent place,  I  believe,  in  the  world.  We  spent 
there  a  whole  day,  and  I  was  only  too  sorry 
Avhen  leaving,  to  know  I  could  not  make  it  con- 


«54 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


It 


venient  to  go  there  again/  but   I   came  away 
charmed    with    the    land  of   flowers,  beautiful 
shrubbery,   playing  fountains,  elegant  statuarv, 
smooth  terraces,  fine  gravel  walks,  shady   little 
nooks,  beautiful  fish  ponds  aboundingwitli  gold- 
en and  other  fish.  Its  hillsand  dales,  romantic  and 
picturesque  beyond  conception,  and  lastly  its  truly 
magnificent  and  spacious  glass  building,  abound- 
ing with  novelties  of  every  age.     Sydenham  Pal- 
ace  is  that,  to  a  certain  extent,  which  was  erected 
in  185  r,  in  Hyde  Park,  London,  for  the  exhibition 
of  industry  of  all  nations,  taken   down   and  re- 
moved  to  this  place  for   re-erection,  which  has 
been  done  with  some  further  improvements  and 
alterations,  making  it  to-day  the  wonder  and  ad- 
miration of  the  world.     Indeed,  the   vast  build- 
ing is  a  city  of  workshops  and  stores  in  itself! 
And    while   we    were   within    its    glass   walls, 
I   had  the  pleasure  of     hearing    the  celebrat- 
ed English  tenor  singer,  Sims  Reeves,  and  others 
ot    vocal    celebrity,   male    and    female,  among 
whom  was  Madam  Santan  Dolby,  a  star  of  much 
magnitude  in  the  profession.     They  sang  in  the 
great  Handel  Orchestra,  which  is  capable  of  ac- 
commodating four  thousand  performers 

The  building  is  divided  into  courts,  represent- 
ing the  architecture,  &c.,  peculiar  to  the  various 
countries  and  places  they  are  named  after,  of 
which  there  are  ten ;  viz  :_the  Egyptian  court, 
Greek,  Roman,  Alhambra,  Nineveh,  Byzantine 
English,    Mediaeval,    Renaissance    and     Italian 


coi 

an 

cot 

ufa 

for 

me 

An 

gei 

is  : 

Di^ 

hib 

the 

mil 

we 

ivc 

wi 

fas 

on 

m: 

Ti 

ci( 

an 

In 

of 

qii 

Sa 
se 
ed 
se 
SI 
ar 


'"1, 


t   I   came  away 
owers,  beautiful 
legant  statuary, 
ilks,  shady  little 
iding]witli  gold- 
es,  romantic  and 
id  lastly  its  truly 
iiilding,  abound- 
Sydenham  Pal- 
lich  was  erected 
)r  the  exhibition 
down   and  re- 
tion,  which  has 
provements  and 
wonder  and  ad- 
the   vast  build- 
stores  in  itself! 
ts    glass   walls, 
the  celebrat- 
ives,  and  others 
female,  among 
a  star  of  much 
ey  sang  in  the 
capable  of  ac- 
rmers. 

jrts,  represent- 
to  the  various 
amed  after,  ot 
gyptian  court, 
eh,  Byzantine, 
and     Italian 


O'et    the  Atlantic. 


155 


courts.     There  is  also  a  place  called  the  Poinpci- 
an  house,  and  there  arc  also  what  may  be  termed 
courts  of  industry,  which  are  open  for  the  man- 
ufacture and  sale  of  various  articles  to  visitors ; 
for  instance,  the  "  Sheffield  court  "  is  an  establish- 
ment   open   for    the  sale    of    what  we   call    in 
America,  hardware,  which  means  there  iron-mon- 
gery,  and  which  includes  cutlery,  &c.  Tiiis  court 
is  a  beautiful  structure  of  glass  and  iron.    In  the 
Birmingham  court,  another   very  fine  place,  is  ex- 
hibited for  sale  the  various  articles  peculiar  to 
the  place  from  which  it  takes  its  name.     There 
may  be  seen  sewing  machines  in  operation,  silk 
weaving,  braid  making,  glass  blowing,  wood  and 
ivory  carving,  &c.,  &c.     in  s!.ort,  you  can  obtain 
within  the  walls  of  this  hive  of  industry,  articles 
fashioned  after  the  style  of  almost  every  country 
on  the  globe.  After  the  various  courts  follow  the 
main  galleries,  model  gallery  and  picture  gallery. 
The  main  galleries  are  loaded  with  various  arti- 
cles from    Europe,    Asia,   Africa  and   America, 
among  which  are  rare  and  choice  specimens  of 
Indian  arms,  armor,  (Oriental  garments,  models 
of  Indian    Mosques  and   Pagodas,   curious  and 
quaint  carving  in  wood  and  ivory.     The  model 
gallery  contains  models  of  bridges,  houses,  ves- 
sels and  marine  appliances,  designed  and  execut- 
ed in  Great  Britain.     In  this  department  can  be 
seen,  of  precise  dimensions,  an  exact  model  ot 
Shakespeare's    house    in    Sfatford-upon-Avon, 
and   a  model  of  the   Britannia  tubular  bridge 


»S6 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


erected  across  the  Menai  strait  in  North  Wales. 
And  in  the  picture  gallery  is  exhibited  upwards 
'<f  one  thousand  pictures  in  oil,  water  colors  and 
crayon,  the  productions  of  the  most  eminent 
artists  of  tiie  age,  both  of  the  English,  French, 
Belgium,  Dutch  German  and  other  schools,  some 
of  which  visitors  purchase  daily,  and  their  vacant 
places  are  occupied  by  others  immediately,  to  ac- 
romplish  which  some  twelve  hundred  pictures 
are  constantly  Ijept  on  hand. 

In  the  Transepts  and  Nave  are  some  of  the 
finest  statuary  that  human  eye  ever  re-^ted  upon, 
some  of  which  arc  of  marvellous  size. 

In  the  Carriage  department  are  carriages  of  el- 
egant workmanship,  constructed  of  the  very  best 
material.s,  but  in  their  construction  about 
three  times  the  amount  of  wood  and  iron  is  used 
that  is  used  by  carriage  makers  in  this  country, 
which  give^  them  to  the  eye  of  an  American  res- 
ident a  very  clumsy  and  cumbersome  appearance. 
I  certainly  saw  no  necessity  for  such  waste  of 
material,  tor  they  have  the  most  beautiful  roads 
to  travel  over  I  ever  saw. 

In  the  large  basement  of  the  palace  is  an 
American  skating  pond,  i.  c.,  a  prepared  floor 
whereon  the  parlor  skates  are  freely  used,  an  ex- 
cellent place  to  teach  the  young  their  preliminarv 
lessons  in  skating  before  taking  to  the  ice.  There 
are  also  within  the  extent  of  the  grounds  a  mag- 
njficent  rosary,  secondary  island,  geological  is- 
lands of  extinct  islands  and  animals. 


t, 


n  North  Wales, 
libited  upwards 
I'ater  colors  and 
most  eminent 
English,  French, 
ir  schools,  some 
md  their  vacant 
nediately,  to  ac- 
mdred  pictures 

re  some  of  tiio 
tr  r<";ted  upon, 
size. 

carriages  of  el- 
)f  the  very  best 
ruction  about 
ind  iron  is  used 
in  this  country, 
1  American  res- 
nie  appearance, 
such  waste  of 
beautiful  roads 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


157 


Wc  must  now  bid  adieu  to  London  for  the 
present,  and  take  my  readers  to  France,  but  will 
speak  further  of  tlie  great  metropolis  and  its 
other  sights  on  our  return  from  the  continent. 


'  palace  is  an 
prepared  floor 
ly  used,  an  ex- 
eir  preliminary 
'  the  ice.  There 
pounds  a  mag- 
geological  is.- 
ils. 


1 


158 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


mmmv 


LETTER  XV. 

FRANCE. 

France.— Having  made  preparations  to  leave 
London   for    a    few  weeks,   one  fine   morning 
we   .started  for  the  continent  ;   taking  the  train 
from  London  Bridge  station,  we  were  soon  en 
route  for  Paris,  and  in  a  couple  of  hours  were 
on  board  the  steamer  which  was  to  take  us  across 
the  channel  from  New  Haven  to  Dieppe.     Such 
a  steamer !     A  little  craft  more  fit  for  a  tug-boat 
than  to  carry   passengers,*  a  disgrace  to  a  civ- 
ilized people.     Not  only  is  this  remark  applica- 
ble  to  England,  but  also  to  other  European  coun- 
tries.    In   this  great  country  (i.  e.  America)  the 
comfort  of  all  classes  is  studied  both  on  rail  and 
on  water ;  but   in  Europe  the  poor  man   is  sup- 
posed  to  have  little  flesh  or  blood  ;  at  all  events, 
It  otherwise,  it  is  estimated  at  much  below  par, 
and  indeed,  so  far  as  expense  is  concerned,  trav- 
eling is  equally  as  expensive  as  in  America.  Then 

far*  in  *]!J^  ''"''  o'j'f  J''^^^'^'*  '  "'"'  *»>•  'hat  Uncle  Sam  is 
ifnatH  *^^*""  °f  John  B""  for  accommodations  both  on 
uoaid  railway  cars  and  steamers. 


•"t- 


1 


rations  to  leave 
^  fine  morning 
aking  the  train 
J  were  soon  en 

of  hours  were 
o  take  us  across 

Dieppe.  Such 
t  for  a  tug-boat 
'grace  fo  a  civ- 
emark  applica- 
European  coun- 
e.  America)  the 
loth  on  rail  and 
or  man  is  sup- 
I ;  at  all  events, 
uch  below  par, 
oncerned, trav- 
Amertca.  Then 

hat  Uncle  Sam  is 
lodations  both  on 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


'59 


why  is  it  that  the  comfort  of  the  people  cannot  be 
studied  equally  as  well  ?     The  answer  is  ^  s.  d  ! 
"The  rank  is  but  the  Ruinea-stamp, 
The  man  is  the  gowd  for  a'  that." 
Leaving  New  Haven   the  small  craft   steamed 
across  the  British  channel  at  the  rate  of  ten  miles 
per  hour,  and  in  seven  hours  we  were  landed  on 
the  quay  at  Dieppe,  whence  we  proceeded  imme- 
diately to  the   railway  station,  there  to  take  the 
cars  for  Paris.     And  as  we  have  to  return  via. 
Dieppe,  I  will  refrain  from  giving  any  account 
of  the   place  until    our  return.      So   after  par- 
taking of  refreshments  we  took  our  seats  in  a  su- 
perior carriage  to  those  we  traveled  in  while  on 
the  other  side  of  the  channel,  and  commenced 
the  overland  journey   through  ancient  Norman- 
dy, of  which  I  shall  also  speak  hereafter,  to  the  gay 
metropolis  of  France.     Away  we  sped,  travers- 
ing the  banks  of  the  Seine  nearly  the  whole  way, 
until  we  arrived  in  Paris,  which  wc  entered  late 
at  night,  and   were  soon  driven  to  the  Hotel  de 
Londres  et   Milan,  in  the  Rue  St.  Ayacinthe,*  a 
house  recommended  to  us  by  an  old  friend  whom 
I  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  when  in  Wales, 
which,  unfortunately  for  us,  was  crowded  with 
sight  seers  to  tlie  Exhibition ;  but  the  proprietor 
very  politely  informed  us  that  if  we  would  con- 
descend to   occupy    apartments  for    the  night, 
which  they    had  engaged   for  sleeping    rooms 

•  Robespierre  met  his  tragic  fate  in  a  room  in  this  build- 
ing. 


^11 


-•Y^  •'?«»w/:f<?>^--=«»- , 


1, 


i6o 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


m 


apart  from  tlie  liotcl,  that  in  the  morning  wc 
should  be  accommf)dated  with  rooms  in  the  ho- 
tel ;  which  i)roposition  we,  being  fatigued,  gladly 
accepted. 

Morning  came  and  fotind  us  like  many  more 
in  the  world-renowned  city  of  Paris,  with  but  a 
mighty  slim  knowledge  of  the  French  language, 
about  a  do/en  words  being  all  the  writer 
had  at  his  command,  and  even  tiiose  few  of  so 
very  an  imperfect  pronunciation,  that  it  was  with 
greatest  difficulty  he  could  make  Johnny  Crapeau 
comprehend  their  meaning,  a  circumstance  most 
harrassing  and  perplexing  to  a  foreigner. 

Paris  appeared  to  me  to  be  all  France,  and  the 
only  place  in  the,  whole  Empire,  i)robably,  where 
rapid  and  vast  improvements  were  being  made. 
The  piles  of  buildings  which  have  been  torn  down 
to  give  place  to  others  of  more  style  and  beauty, 
and  to  widen  streets  and  thoroughfares,  during 
the  reign  of  the  present  Emperor,  is  astonishing, 
and     the    comparison     between     ancient    and 
modern  Paris  to-day  is  so  great  that  it  is  called 
the  handsomest  city  in  the  world.     It  certainly 
has  some  fine   places ;  for  instance,  the  Rue  dc 
Rivoli  is  an  elegant  otreet,  comprised  of  stores, 
exhibiting  the  finest  and  most   costly  works  of 
Parisian   art    and   fashion.       Directly    opposite 
which   is  the  elegant    Palace   of  the-Tuilleries 
with  its  extensive  gardens  and   public  prome- 
nades.    The  Boulevards  des  Italiens  and  other 
public  thoroughfares  are  also  very  fine,  and  af- 


.>a:ff«(VEA5J«&  ■ 


••%. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


i6i 


the  morning  \vc 
rooms  in  the  ho- 
l  fatigued,  gladly 

lilce  many  more 
Paris,  with  but  a 
["rcnch  language, 

all    the     writer 

those  few  of  so 
,  that  it  was  with 
Johnny  Crapeau 
rcumstance  most 
breigner. 

France,  and  the 
probably,  where 
ere  being  made. 
.'  been  torn  down 
ityle  and  beauty, 
Lighfares,  during 
r,  is  astonishing, 
\    ancient    and 

that  it  is  called 
Id.  It  certainly 
ice,  the  Rue  de 
Drised  of  stores, 
costly  works  of 
rectly  opposite 
f  the-Tuilleries 

public  prome- 
liens  and  other 
ry  fine,  and  af- 


ford delightful  walks  beneath  the  shade  of  nu- 
merous well  planted  trees,  while  the  Champs  Elys- 
ses  is  the  most  deli'jjlitful  place  in  the  whole  city. 
We  had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  this  fashiona- 
ble drive  and  promenade  during  the  "  Fetes  de 
Napoleon,"  a  national  holiday  like  that  of  our 
fourth  of  July,  upon  which  occasion  it  is  illumi- 
nated at    night  witii   tens   of  thousands   of  gas 
lights  shaded  with  variegated  glass  globes,  form- 
ing, from  the  entrance  to  the  gardens  of  the  Tuil- 
leries,  through  the  Place  de  la  Concorde  to  the 
Arc   de  Triomphe,  at  the  e.Ktreme  end,   a  most 
magnificent  and  brilliant  scene,  such  as   is   but 
seldom    witnessed.     I    was   walking   along   this 
charming  place  one  day  during  the  preparations 
which    were   being   made   for   the    Fetes,   upon 
which  occasion  I    was  fortunate,  for  it  was   the 
only  time  1  saw  the  Emperor  during  my  stay  in 
the  city.     My   attention   was  first  called  to  the 
fact  of  his  presence  by   the  sudden   and  rather 
tame  remark  of  some  person  near  me  saying,  "le 
Empereur:    le   Emperetir!"      Then    I    saw   the 
crowd   run   to   the  sidewalks ;  of  course   I    was 
glad  of  the  opportunity  thus  afforded  me  to  see 
the  man  who  has  occupied  for  years  so  promi- 
nent a  position  in  the  affairs  of  E;irope,  so  fol- 
lowed the  crowd. 

At  a  leisurely  pace  came  along  two  open  car- 
riages, each  drawn  by  four  beautiful  and  richly 
caparisoned  horses,  with  postillions,  i.  e.,  drivers 
riding  each  near  horse,  attended  by  a  small  es- 


1. 


162 


O'er  Ihf  Atlantic. 


<ort.     First  came   their  Majesties   tlic  Emperor 
and  Empress,  accompanied  by  their  Majesties  the 
Kiiifr  and  Oucen  of  Sweden,  then  on  a  visit  at 
tlie  Tiiilleries.     In  tiie  other  carriage  rode  four 
gentlemen,  whose  names  w     -  unknown  ;  proba- 
bly members  of  their   suit«;.     I    was  astonished 
that  there  was  no  excitement,  such   as  cheering, 
&c. :  but  no,  there  was  scarcely  any  notice  taken 
<jf  the  cortege  except  by  foreigners,  which  caused 
me  to  think  that  Louis  was  anything  but  popu- 
lar among  his  people.     One  tiling  is  certain,  he 
is  not  popular  with  himself,  for  he  looked  hag- 
gard, thin  and  careworn,  and  is  a  much  smaller 
man  than  I    had  frequently  imagined  him  to  be. 
Looking  at  the  varif»us  portraits  of  him,   he  ap- 
pears to  be  a  man  of  nuich  above  the  medium 
height,  but  it  is  not  so;  I  scarcely  think  that  he 
is  any  taller  than  "  King  John's  man"  (5  ft.  6  in.). 
I  will  now  speak  of  the— 

"■Palais  df  r Exposition  Unirersalk,"  ux,  in  plain 
English,  the  "  International  Exhibition,"  which 
is  erected  on  the  grounds  of  the  Champs  de  Mars, 
whereon  the  first  Emperor  assembled  his  army 
on  his  return  from  Elba,  when  they  took  the 
oath  of  allegiance  to  iiim.  It  is  constructed  c^f 
iron,  litrhtcd  from  the  roof,  is  of  oval  form  and 
covers  about  40  acres  of  ground  ;  its  outward 
appearance  is  not  so  much  to  be  admired,  but  the 
interior  is  admirably  arranged  in  the  most  sys- 
tematic and  simple  manner,  and  for  the  display 
of  goods  it  has  no  equal.     The  grounds  that  sur- 


ics  tlic  Emperor 
jcir  Majesties  the 
len  on  a  visit  at 
Triage  rude  four 
nknown  ;  proba- 

was  astonished 
ucli  as  djeering, 
any  notice  taken 
LTs,  which  caused 
thing  but  popu- 
ng  is  certain,  lie 

he  looked  hag- 
a  much  smaller 
?ined  liim  to  be. 
s  of  him,  he  ap- 
Dve  the  medium 
ly  think  that  he 
nan"  (5  ft.  6  in.). 

7/<',"  or,  in  plain 
hibition,"  which 
Champs  de  MarSy 
mblcd  his  army 
1  they  took  the 
1  constructed  c^f 
'  oval  form  and 
id  ;  its  outward 
admired,  but  the 
in  the  most  sys- 
for  the  display 
rounds  that  sur- 


0*er  the  AHantit. 


i^? 


round  it  are  tastefully  and  beautil'ully  laid  out, 
and  trees  and  flowers  of  evi  ry  description  adorn 
its  wide  avenues  and  walks. 

The  Park  contains  buildings,  representing  the 
style  of  architecture  of  various  nations,  as  also 
model  theatres,  tiirins,  dairies.  liothf»uscs.  facto- 
ries, mills,  &c.,  with  the  various  machinery  in  mo- 
tion. To  give  an  account  of  all  that  can  be  seen 
within  or  without,  or  even  one  hu'dredth  part  of 
it,  would  be  perfectly  futile;  suffice  it  to  say  that 
tliere  gathered  together  is  the  handiwork  of  the 
industry  of  the  inhabitants  (^f  almost  every  na- 
tion on  the  surface  of  the  globe. 

The  exhibition  comprises  three  portions;  viz., 
tiiat  called  the  Park,  the  (larde.i  and  the  Billan- 
court,  the  latter  being  an  island  on  the  Seine, 
situated  a  few  hundred  yards  fmrn  the  Champs 
de  Mars,  and  set  apart  for  agricultural  exhibi- 
tions and  field  experiments  of  machines,  etc. 
Apropos  of  this  department,  let  me  say  that 
there  American  inventions  stood  A,  No.  i,  Mc- 
Cormick's  implements,  especially  his  reaping 
and  mowing  machines,  taking  tlic  first  prize. 

The  interior  ot  the  great  oval  palace  ccjntains 
w  %res  and  merchandise  of  domestic  and  foreign 
I  anufacture,  and  we  passed  through  the  va- 
rious circles,  commencing  from  the  left  of  the 
grand  vestibule  and  returning  to  the  point 
of  departure;  and  then  commenced  another  cir- 
cle, then  another  and  another,  until  we  traversed 
five  or  six,  which  occupied  us  three  days.    While 


r 


i<  ^. 


164 


0\r  the  Atlantic. 


liavcrsinjj;  tliniM'  wide  ciiilrs  or  avenues 
of  trade,  for  jjoods  were  not  only  011  cxliil)itif)n 
l)iit  fur  sale  also,  we  passed  by  the  res|)ectivc  di- 
visions appropriated  to  and  occupied  by  the  sev- 
eral countries  who  had  lorwarded  jroods  lor  exhi- 
bition First  came  France  and  its  colonies,  AI- 
^eri.i,  Netherlands.  liel^iinn,  Prussia,  (Jerman 
States,  Austrii)  Switzerland,  Spain,  I'ortuji^al, 
(ireece,  Denmark,  Sweden  and  Norway,  Russia. 
Italy,  Roman  States,  Danid)ian  Principalities, 
Turkey,  Fgypt,  China,  Siam,  Japan,  Persia,  Af- 
rica, \ustralasia.  United  States,  Mexico,  Brazil, 
Republics  of  Central  and  Southern  America, 
and  lastly  Great  Britain  and  Ireland,  each  c(nin- 
try  exliibiting  such  articles  as  were  manufactured 
within  their  respective  territories,  some  of  which 
were  of  the  most  elaborate  workmanship,  and  a 
wonder  in  artistic  skill.  France  exhibited,  in 
addition  to  her  manufaciures,  very  many  rare 
and  costly  relics,  some  of  which  dated  back  long 
before  the  Christian  era.  a  most  interesting  col- 
lection. 

The  space  allotted  to  the  United  States,  I  must 
confess,  was  but  small,  but  it  appears  to  make 
up  for  it  they  were  given  an  additional  place 
within  the  grounds,  apart  from  the  main  build- 
ing, which  we  visited,  and  where  was  on  exhibi- 
tion the  finest  and  best  finished  locomotive, 
named  the  America,  of  all  that  were  within  the 
palace  walls,  and  I  was  informed,  how  correctly 
I  cannot  say,  that  the  Emperor  had.  or  was  then 
negotiating  its  purchase. 


1, 


O'er  llii-  MliVitii. 


i^'S 


("^     or     iivi'iuu'^ 
ly    1)11  cxliil)ilion 
the  rt'spuctivc  di- 
ipic'd  by  the  sev- 
[1  jj;()(){ls  tor  fxlii- 
i  its  colonics,  Al- 
'nissia,  (iermaii 
Spain,    Portugal, 
Norway,  Russia, 
n    Principalities, 
iipan,  Persia,  Af- 
Mexico,  Hra/il, 
ithern    America, 
land,  each  cou li- 
re manufactured 
s,  some  of  which 
kinansliip,  and  a 
cc   exiiibited,  in 
I'cry   many    rare 
dated  back  long- 
intcrestini!-   col- 
id  States,  I  must 
ppears  to  make 
idditiunal    place 
the  main    build- 
_■  was  on  exhibi- 
led    hx-omotivc, 
ivere   within  the 
,  how   correctly 
lad.  or  was  then 


The  outside  ol  tiic  outer  circle  was  occupied 
by  Cafes  (saloons),  a  piaie  appropriated  to  the 
various  countries  represented  in  tlie  palace, 
wherein  could  i)e  obtained  rerreshnienls  peculiar 
to  ihec(juntry  whose  flai-  hung  over  the  en- 
trance, eatiui,'  and  drinkinji;  according  to  your 
taste  or  whim,  and  be  waited  upon  by  persons 
attired  in  the  respe(  live  costumes  of  the  country 
ihey  represented,  ami  speaking  the  language; 
there  all  could  be  accommf^daled  according  to 
their  tastes.  Inr  instance.  We  of  course  \  isited 
the  "  r.  S.  Calc,"  where  the  most  fastidious  Yan- 
kee co\ild  be  accommodated  with  the  choicest 
morsels  and  most  di-lightful  drinks  that  he  ever 
l)artook  of  even  in  a  hrst  class  Broadway  saloon, 
and  our  ( Jerman  American  citizens  could  enlarge 
their  dimensions  by  partaking,  as  is  their  wont, 
i>f  anv  quantity  of  bologn.i  sausages,  rye  bread, 
sweitzer-case  and  b<>ik  beer. 

I  will  now  ask  my  readers  .to  leave 
the  Exposition,  and  accompany  me  to  the 
llori'.i.  DKs  Invai.idks. — This  immense  charita- 
ble institution  was  commenced  by  Louis 
XIV,  in  167 1,  and  restored  by  Napoleons  [  and 
III.  It  gives  shelter  to  about  3,000  maimed,  old 
and  invalided  soldiers,  and  under  its  dome  now 
rests  the  remains  of  the  once  great  Napoleon, 
which  were  removed  from  St.  Helena  in  1840. 
J'he  crvpt  of  circular  form  is  open,  the  sarcopha- 
gus is  placed  in  tlie  centre,  and  the  walls  are  em- 
bellished with  statuary  of  colossal  proportions, 
representing  the  Emperor's  twelve  principal  vie- 


1/  »^. 


i66 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


tories.  A  marble  staircase  leads  to  the  entrance 
of  this  crypt,  and  on  the  right  and  left  are  maus- 
oleums of  Duroc  and  Bertrand,  two  of  his  faith- 
ful generals  and  sharers  of  his  captivity.  The 
tomb  is  upwards  of  four  yards  long,  two  feet 
wide,  about  five  feet  high,  and  stands  on  a  green 
granite  base.  In  a  black  marble  vault,  facing 
the  entrance  door,  stands  a  white  marble  statue 
of  the  deceased  Emperor,  attired  in  coronation 
robes.  * 

Before  leaving  this  building  I  was  shown, 
among  other  things,  the  plans  in  bas-relief  of 
the  principal  strongholds  of  France,  which  were 
really  worth  seeing;  for  large  cities  and  forts, 
with  their  extensive  grounds  in  and  around 
them,  in  miniature,  was  almost  like  visiting  the 
originals  in  person.  Such  plans  cannot  fail  to 
give  the  engineer  a  very  accurate  knowledge  of 
tlic  strength  and  position  of  such  places  durintr 
a  seige. 

In   the   library  are  about  20,000  volumes  of 
choice  military   works,  and  while  in  there  I   was 
shown  the  bullet  which  killed  Turenne,  in  1675 
two  torches  used  by   him  in  his  campaign,  a   sil- 
ver model  of  his  equestrian  statue,  and  a  plan  in 
relief   of   the    "Hotel   des   Invalides,"    leaving 
which  we  emerged  into  the  open  air  and   viewed 
some  cannon,  which  are  arranged   right  and  left    ' 
of  the  entrance,  comprised  of  Algerian,  Chinese 
and  French  manufacture.     The  latter  were  those 
that  formerly  belonged  to  the  "Armv  of  Ee-vot  " 
Afore  amn.  '  ^  ' 


1 
in 
int 
est 
tra 
all 
cia 
Ch 
by 
crc 
Sa 
an 
an 
er 
er( 
ele 
th( 
be 
ed 
do 
wi 
su 


>/     Tfci— 


IC. 

ds  to  the  entrance 
and  left  are  maus- 
I,  two  of  his  faith- 
s  captivity.  The 
is  long,  two  feet 
stands  on  a  green 
rble  vault,  facing 
itc  marble  statue 
3d    in  coronation 

I  I  was  shown, 
'  in  bas-relief  of 
nee,  which  were 
cities  and  forts, 
in  and  around 
like  visiting  the 
IS  cannot  fail  to 
te  knowledge  of 
-h  places  during 

ooo   volumes  of 
e  in  there  I   was 
urenne,  in  1675, 
;ampaign,  a   sii- 
le,  and  a  plan  in 
ilides,"    leaving 
air  and   viewed 
i   right  and  left 
gerian,  Chinese 
itter  were  those 
rmy  of  Egypt." 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


167 


LETTER  XVI. 

FRANCE,  CONTINUED. 

From  the  "  Hotel  des  Invalides"  we  proceeded 
in  the  charge  of  a  guide  and  interpreter,  a  very 
intelligent  person,  to  visit  other  places  of  inter- 
est and  note.  First  visiting  the  "  Halles  Cen- 
tral" (market  place),  Commercial  Courts,  where 
all  matters  connected  with  commerce  are  judi- 
cially settl3d,  and  Saint  Chapelle,  or  the  Holy 
Chapel,  a  most  magnificent  place  built  in  1245 
by  St.  Louis,  to  contain  the  crown  of  thorns,  the 
cross,  spear,  and  other  so-called  relics  of  our 
Saviour.  It  is  divided  into  two  chapels,  upper 
and  lower,  the  upper  one  being  much  superior 
and  more  extravagantly  decorated  than  the  low- 
er one;  the  walls  and  ceilings  are  profusely  cov- 
ered with  gilt,  and  the  ca  ving  in  wood  is  very 
elegant.  The  lower  chapel  is,  notwithstanding 
the  line  of  comparison  that  I  have  drawn,  a  very 
beautiful  place  also.  Leaving  here  we  proceed- 
ed to  the  Cathedral  de  Notre  Dame,  a  stupen- 
dous piece  of  masonry  of  the  most  ancient  order, 
with  its  scores  of  statues  representing  scriptural 
subjects,  adorning  the  main  entrance,  and  other 


s, 


i68 


O'lr  ihf  Atlantic. 


embdlislimcnts  in  stone  of  tlie  nirest  kind.  It 
was  in  tlie  course  of  completion  for  three  Inin- 
dred  years,  is  three  lunidred  and  ninety  feet  iontj 
one  hundred  and  forty  feet  wide,  one  hundred 
and  two  feet  high,  and  of  the  Gothic  stvle.  A 
very  handsome  tomb  in  memorv  of  Archbishop 
Aftre  IS  erected  within  its  wails.  The  Bishop 
was  killed  in  ,848  when  endeavoring  to  stay  the 
insurrection  of  that  period. 

In  the  church  of  St.  Etienne  du  Mont,  are  two 
beautikil  .p.ral  stairca.ses  of  veiy  elegant    work- 
manship, and  it  contains   the  tomb  Jf  St   Gene 
v.cye,  the  patron  Saint  of  Paris.     The  Pantheon 
"s  the   scene  of  the   conflict    between  the  people 
=u.d  the  troops,  in  ,848.  and  the  massive  colunlns 
o    the    main  entrance,  as   also   parts  of  the  inte- 
i>or  bear   evidence  on  their   face,  of    the   severe 
'oaHict    that  raged    between    them.     The  people 
nnsed  barric.tdes,  took    possession  of  the  dm ich 
andfot^ht    Aom    within  its  gates   with  that  des- 
ua  ion  only  known  to  a  people  fully  bent  upon 
not  being  conquered  but    in  death.     For  a  lonL^ 
tnne  th^-   l,eld   possession  of  the  place    tuuil    k 
was  riddled   with  shot,  when,  finding  further  re 
sistance  useless,  they   commenced   the   work   of 
death  among   themselves,  until  not  one   was  left 
to  render  an  account  of  their  doings  upon  earth 
So  when  the  military  entered  the  church,  it   was 
only  to  find  nothing   but  the  bleeding  corpses  of 
a  brave  and  determined  people,  who  wouldVatl.:; 
die   than   gn-e   ni    to   despotic   power.     In    this 
church  he  the  remains  of  X'oltaire  and  Rousseau. 


I 


\ 


Tl 
centi 
an  ai 
ow  c 
tlien 
cepti 
supp 
ador 
be  s( 
man 
was 
iden 
of  F 
orat( 
war> 
is  th 
pero 
Cha 
styl( 
also 

Tl 
Con 
the 
fine 
the 
jnuc 

T 
thoi 
roiu 
was 
Naj 


f,  k 


f 


O'er  the  Atlatttic. 


169 


rart'st  kind.     It 

I  lor   three  liiin- 
ninety  feet  long. 

de,  one  hundred 
^rotiiic  style.  A 
\-  ot"  Archbishop 
1^.  The  Bishop 
Jiing  to  stay  the 

u  Mont,  are  two 
■  elegant  work- 
lib  of  St.  Gene- 
The  Pantheon 
veen  the  people 
nassive  columns 
arts  of  the  inte- 
.  of  the  severe 
I".      J'he  people 

II  of  the  church 
i  with  that  des- 
rully  bent  upon 
h.     For  a  long 

place    until    it 
ing  further  re- 
l   the   work   of 
)t  one   was  left 
gs  upon  earth, 
cluirch,  it    was 
ling  corpses  of 
0  would  rather 
)wer.     In    this 
and  Rousseau. 


The  Hotel  de  Cluny  was  built  in  the  fifteenth 
century  by  the  Abbots  of  Cluny,  and  lias  (piite 
an  ancient  appearance.  Mary  of  England,  wid- 
ow of  Louis  XII,  and  James  of  Scotland  resided 
there.  It  is  now  used  as  a  imiseiim  for  tlie  re- 
ception of  antiquities,  with  which  it  is  liberally 
supplied.  Old  paintings  in  oil  and  tapestry, 
adorn  the  walls,  and  in  tlie  various  chambers  can 
be  seen  choice  and  rare  articles  manufactured 
many  centuries  ago.  The  Palais  du  Luxembourg 
was  built  in  1615  by  Catharine  de  Medicis  for  a  res- 
idence, and  is  now  the  French  Senate  or  House 
of  Peers.  The  State  apartments  are  richly  dec- 
orated and  contain  magnificent  paintings  of  the 
wars  of  Napoleon.  The  throne  room,  wherein 
is  the  ancient  throne  and  chair  of  the  first  Em- 
peror, is  a  most  elegant  room,  and  the  Senate 
Chamber,  which  represents  very  much  the  same 
style  as  the  Senate  Chamber  in  Washington,  is 
also  elegantly  fitted  and  furnished. 

The  Corps  IvCgislatif,  wherein  assembles  the 
Congres-j  of  France,  is  similarly  fitted  to  that  of 
the  Luxembourg,  and  also  contains  some  very 
fine  paintings,  especially  a  full  length  portrait  of 
the  present  Emperor,  which  shows  him  to  be  a 
much  larger  man  than  he  really  is. 

The  Church  of  the  Madeline,  by  some  persons 
thought  to  be  the  finest  building  in  Paris,  is  sur- 
rounded with  fifty-two  Corinthian  pillars.  It 
was  commenced  during  the  reign  of  the  first 
Napoleon,  and   completed   in  1842,  and  the  inte- 

G 


•aia.n 


170 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


rior  is  very  fine  indeed.  We  visited  several  other 
places  of  vvorsliip,  all  of  which  had  within  their 
walls  more  or  less  persons  paying  their  devotions 
at  the  shrine  of  their  favorite  saint,  for  which  we 
(among  others)  were  expected  to  pay,  gratuities 
being  demanded,  and  alirs  for  various  purposes 
by  hosts  of  beggars,  of  all  ages  so  ihat  the  sight- 
seei<er  has  to  have  his  hand  in  his  purse  con- 
tinually. The  cry  is  give  !  give  ! !  This  is  the 
great  evil  over  all  Europe.  The  traveler  and 
stranger  is  bored  incessantly  and  in  various  man- 
ners and  Avays  for  the  filthy  lucre,  until  he  is 
quite  at  a  loss  to  know  when  he  has  done  paying. 
An  abominable  system,  and  one  that  should  be 
decidedly  abolished. 

The  Place  V'endome  is  a  large  square,  in  the 
centre  of  wliich  stands  a  high  column  erected  by 
Napoleon  I,  to  commemorate  his  German  cam- 
paign.  It  is  formed  of  1,200  captured  cannon, 
and  is  surmounted  by  a  statue  of  himself  attired 
in  state  robes. 

The  Palais  du  Louvre,  a  very  extensive  build- 
ing, was  commenced  by  Francis  I,  and  enlarged 
by  succeeding  sovereigns.  It  is  now  used  as  a 
museum,  containing  hundreds,  nay  thousands,  of 
rare  and  beautiful  pictures  by  the  most  eminent 
masters;  historical  relics  of  various  ages  and  a 
fine  library  also  adorns  the  interior. 

The  magnificent  Palais  of  the  Tuilleries  ad- 
joins the  Palais  du  Louvre.  It  was  founded  by 
Catharine  de  Medicis,  and    is  at  present  the  city 


\ 


resK 

Eug 

muc 

the 

mitt 

T> 
bull 
off 
shal 
thoi 
com 

P 
plac 
of  I 
the. 
nob 
an 
mur 
XV 
and 
Fra; 
mar 
of  I 
broi 
two 
cial 
a  m 
or, 
occi 
the 

giyi 


1,  ^. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


n' 


ted  several  other 
had  within  their 
g  their  devotions 
int,  for  which  we 
to  pay,  gratuities 
arious  purposes 
so  ihat  the  sight- 
his  purse  con- 
2 ! !  This  is  the 
he  traveler  and 
I  in  various  man- 
ucre,  until  he  is 
lias  done  paying. 
e  that  should   be 

je  square,  in  the 
>lumn  erected  by 
is  German  cam- 
iptured  cannon, 
f  himself  attired 

extensive  build- 
I,  and  enlarged 
s  now  used  as  a 
ay  thousands,  of 
fie  most  eminent 
ious  ages  and  a 
ior. 

B  Tuilleries  ad- 
was  founded  by 
present  the  city 


S 


residence  of  Louis  Napoleon  and  his  Empress 
Eugenie.  The  Emperor  has  caused  to  be  done 
much  to  enlarge  and  beautify  it,  but  owing  to 
the  couri  being  at  home  we  could  not  gain  ad- 
mittance into  the  interior. 

To  enumerate  and  speak  of  all  tlie  public 
buildings  of  Paris  that  we  visited,  for  it  is  a  city 
of  palaces,  is  almost  next  to  impossible;  so  I 
shall  liave  to  reluctantly  abandon  even  the 
thought,  and  speak  of  other  points  of  interest, 
commencing  with  the — 

Place  de  la  Concorde. — This  very  magnificent 
place  was  originally  intended  to  receive  a  statue 
of  Louis  XV,  and  was  called  after  him;  but  at 
the.  Revolution,  so  fatal  to  the  blood  royal  and 
nobility  of  France,  this  statue  was  replaced  by 
an  image  of  liberty,  and  subsequently  by  the 
murderous  guillotine,  on  which  perished  Louis 
XVI,  Marie  Antoinette,  the  Duke  of  Orleans 
and  a  multitude  of  others  of  the  best  blood  oi 
France.  Around  the  place  are  eight  very  fine 
marble  statues,  which  represent  the  largest  cities 
of  France ;  and  in  the  centre  stands  an  obelisk, 
brought  from  Egypt,  on  either  side  of  which  are 
two  large  fountains,  the  \\/hole  presenting,  espe- 
cially at  night,  with  its  very  numerous  gas  lights, 
a  most  magnificent  scene.  The  Obelisk  of  Lux- 
or, from  the  ruins  of  Thebes,  in  Upper  Egypt. 
occupies  a  prominent  position  here,  and  has  for 
the  last  40  years.  It  is  covered  with  hiero- 
glyphics, and   is  over  4,000  years  old ;  which,  to- 


f*  * ^  , 


7» 


O'er  the  AtlanHc. 


getlier  with  the  colossal  statuary,  representing 
the  principal  cities  of  France,  and  the  magnifi- 
cent fountains,  form  a  grand  spectacle. 

The  Bridges  across  the  Sa'nc,  of  which  there 
are  many,  arc  also  well  Avorthy  the  attention  of 
the  stranger.  Tliey  are  hcautiful  works  of  art, 
some  of  which  are  higiily  embellished  with  stat- 
uary, placed  on  the  pillars  supporting  the  arches, 
and  facing  up  and  down  the  river.  I  would  like 
much  to  be  able  lo  give  a  more  liberal  and 
graphic  account  of  Paris,  but  to  cnribie  me  to  do 
so,  it  would  require  of  me  a  residence  of  many 
months. 

Near  to  this  spot  is  the  Palais  de  I'Elysce, 
where  Napoleon  signed  his  last  abdication,  and 
wherein  the  Duke  of  Wellington,  Murat,*  the 
Emperor  of  Russia,  Madame  de  Pompadour, 
and  Napoleon  III,  when  President,  have  resided 
at  various  times. 

The  Bois  de  Bolougne,  once  the  favorite  hunt- 
ing ground  of  the  Kings  of  France,  is  now  a 
favorite  place  of  resort  with  the  gay  and  fashion- 
able Parisians.  It  is  very  beautifully  laid  out 
with  lakes,  cascades,  walks  and  drives. 

One  evening  we  attended  a  concert  in  the  gar- 
dens of  the  Champs  Elysees,  upon  which  occa- 
sion we  had  the  pleasure  of  hearing  the  cele- 
brated band  of  the  "  French  Guides  "  play  a  se- 
lection of  the  most  popular  airs.  The  members 
of  this  band  are  all  picked  men  and  thoroughly 
skilled  in  their  profession,  and  the  spectacle  to 


ui- 


.1* ' —  ^ . 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


173 


iry,  representing 
nd  the  magnifi- 
ctacle. 

,  of  wliicli  there 
the  attention  of 
li  works  of  art, 
ishcd  witli  stat- 
rti  ng  the  arches, 
r.  I  would  like 
ore  liberal  and 
c!rib!(!  me  to  do 
iidencc  of  many 

lais  de  I'Elysce, 
abdication,  and 
on,  Murat,'  the 
de  Pompadour, 
nt,  have  resided 

e  favorite  hunt- 
ance,  is  now  a 
:ay  and  fashion- 
tifuUy  laid  out 
rives. 

icert  in  the  gar- 
Dn  which  occa- 
iring  the  cele- 
des  "  play  a  se- 
The  members 
and  thoroughly 
the  spectacle  to 


be  witnessed  in  this  favorite  and  highly  respecta- 
ble place  of  entertainment,  of  an  evening,  is  mag- 
nificent.    Not  fiir  off  from  there  is  on  exhibition, 
and  which  I  saw,  the  immense  and  very  fine  paint- 
ing of  the  buttle  of  Solferino.     It   occupies  the 
whole  of  a  large  circular  building,  with  a  mound 
in  the  centre,  whereon  the  visitors  stand  to  view  the 
great  picture,  and  over  which  are  scattered  brok- 
en muskets,  swords,  bayonets,  knapsacks,  shakos, 
dismantled  cannon,  &c.,  thus  almost  depicting  to 
the   liuman   eye  the  actual   field  of  battle.     On 
the  canvass  are  faithful  likenesses  of  Napoleon 
III  and  his  generals,  as  also  those  of  the  Austri- 
ans,  and  a  truthful  representation  of  tlie  scenery, 
in  Avhich  the  battle   took   place.     This  immense 
painting  is  very  interesting,  and  well  worvli  seeing. 
Now  a  few  words  about  Paris  generally.    Not- 
withstanding the  great  seige  of  improvement   it 
has  undergone  and  is  undergoing  daily,  Paris 
does  not  class  with  many   other  cities  in  Europe 
and  America.     Exteriorly  the  buildings-have  an 
elegant  and   majestic  appearance,  but  there  is  a 
lack  of  those  sanitary  measures,  regulations  and 
improvements,   which   now^   so  generally  adorn 
the  interior  of  buildings  in  other  countries ;  and 
as  to  water,  it  is  truly   abominable.     So  with  all 
its  numerous  palaces,  gilded  iron  work,  spark- 
ling in  the  sun,  and  fashionable  places  of  resort, 
with  the  gayety  and   splendor  of  daily   life,  it 
lacks  much  of  being  a  model  city,  and  in  the  opin- 
ion of  intelligent  Frenchmen,  indeed  our  guide 


t,  ^. 


'74 


O'er  the  Atjantk 


tolrl  inc  as  much,  thut  crc  long,  bcaiilifi.l  as  it  is 
'n  many   ether  rc-spects,  much  cf  it    will  have  t(, 
•iiKlcrg.,  souner   or  later   the   terrible   scenes   of 
1848.*       Apropos     of     this:       "The      French 
people."  said    he,  "will    never   be  satisfied  until 
monarchial      rule      is       absoh.tely      abolished 
and   a    re,,..blic     formed.      Xapoicon     is     onjv 
tniperor   of  />vw.-hc   never   was    and   neve'r 
wiH  be   Emperor  of  the  French  :  and  when  he  is 
crowned  Emperor  of  either  I  shall  be  prime  min- 
ister,  vvhich  is  not  possible.    He  is  a  military  des- 
P-t.  wlu.  wishes  to  palm  off  o„  the  country  an 
I'cir  to  the  French  throne,  whose  paternity  the 
great    mass   of  the   civilian   French    have   their 
soru.us  doubts  about ;  but,  if  he  lives  long  enough, 
he  will  see  his  mistake,and  if  he  don't  live  to  see 
>t,  the  time  will  tlien  have  arrived  for  Frenchmen 
to  act.       Such  were  nearly  the  words  wherein  he 
expressed  himself,  confideutiallv,  of  course,  /.  .., 
that   I   should   not   speak  of  it  while  in  France. 
He  upon  another  occasion,  remarked  to  me  that 
the  Emperor  dreaded  ail  this,  and  that  in  conse- 
quence he  seldom  retired  to  his  bed,  for  anxiety 
of  miud  interfered  with  sleep.     Says  the  guide, 
That    man    don't    sleep    twelve  hours    in    one 
week. 

I  will  now  ask  my  readers  to  accompanv  us  to 
Versadles,  an  account  of  which  I  will  give  them 
in  my  next. 

rmn?'"*'  ''  "  """^  '"■•bulent  spirit  manifested   against  the 


and( 

toric 

and 

mad( 

surn 

worn 

fetes 

scale 

Extr 

this 

such 

that 

the  ( 

quer 

men 

of  w 

equa 

peop 

in  til 

6th  ^ 


O'tr  the  Atlantic 


J75 


bcaiiiiful  as  it  is 
it   will  liavf  to 
■ribic   scenes  of 
"  The      Krencli 
'e  satisfied  until 
tely      abolished 
olcon     is     onjv 
vas    and   never 
md  wlien  he  is 
I  be  prime  min- 
;  a  military  des- 
the  country  an 
e  paternity  the 
icli    have   their 
L*s  long  enough, 
lon't  live  to  see 
for  Frenchmen 
rds  wherein  he 
of  course,  /.  e., 
iiile  in  PVance. 
:ed  to  me  that 
that  in  conse- 
.*d,  for  anxiety 
ays  the  guide, 
/lours    in    one 

company  us  to 
vill  give  them 


isted  against  the 
:h  sooner  or  later 
•leonic  rule. 


LETTER  XVII. 

FRANCE,   CONTINUED. 

Palace  ok  Versailles. — This  very  magnificent 
and  extensive  Palace,  now  converted  into  an  His- 
torical Museum,  was  commenced  by  Louis  XIII, 
and  enlarged  and  beautified  by  Louis  XIV,  who 
made  it  his  principal  and  favorite  residence ; 
surrounded  with  the  pomp  of  Court,  beautiful 
women  and  brilliant  nobles,  it  was  here  he  gave 
fetes  and  entertainments  on  so  magnificent  a 
scale  as  to  astonish  all  the  Courts  of  Europe. 
Extravagant  sums  of  money  were  expended  by 
this  monarch  on  the  Palace  of  Versailles.  To 
such  an  extent  iid  lie  carry  out  his  extravagance, 
that  he  drained  the  coffers  of  France  and  placed 
the  country  in  a  state  of  bankruptcy,  the  conse- 
quence of  which  was  a  revolution.  After  this 
monarch  came  Louis  XV  and  Louis  XVI,  both 
of  whom  occupied  the  Palace  and  lived  at  an 
equally  extravagant  rate,  until  the  patience  of  the 
people  again  became  exhausted,  when  they  rose 
in  their  might.  Says  a  certain  writer  ;  •  On  the 
6th  of  October,  1789,  the  people  of  Paris,  exas- 


f<  «^. 


176 


O'lr   the  AlU'.ntic. 


;r 


pcratfd  l.y  Hk     -ltml-s    wlii.li    li.ul   taken    place 
fluriiig  the  banquet  jfiveu   to  the  djianh  in  tlie 
npera  lioiise  of  tlic  Pahic  i    marched  on  Versiiilles. 
Marie  Antoinette  apjieared  on  liie  bakony  of  tlie 
lii>t    Hoor,   accompanied    by    .Madame    and    the 
Dauphin.     There   was   a    shout    immediately   f)f 
•no  cinldrcn:'     TIr-  Oueen,   undaunted  bv  the 
danger    which    this   slioul    so    clearly   foretold, 
advanced  alone  and  unattended.     Lafayette  pres- 
ently appeared,  and,  placing  him.self  next  to  her, 
api^eascd  the  rage  of  the  mob.     The  next  shout 
was  for  the  King,  who  shinvcd  himself  at  once 
and  replied  to  the  cry  of  the  enraged  mob,  '  The 
King  must  come  to  Paris! '  that  he  Mould  accede 
to  their   wishes,   confiding  all   he   most  dearly 
prized  to  the  care  of  his  most  good  and  fait/iftd 
subjects."— The  royal  family  left  tiie  Chateau  at 
one  o'clock  in  the  afternoon  (jf  that  day,  soon  to 
be  deprived  of  life  at  the  hands  of  an  infuriated 
and  down-trodden  people.     Since  that  day  this 
extensive  Palace  has  been  uninhabited. 

Immediately  on  entering  within  the  massive 
gilded  gates,  whereon  are  emblazoned  the  royal 
arms  of  France,  the  stranger  is  struck  with  a.ston- 
ishment  at  what  he  sees ;  groups  of  immense 
size  statuary  occupy  prominent  positions  in  the 
Palace  yard,  the  appearance  of  which  rivets  liim 
to  the  spot— makes  him  spell-bound— and  chal- 
lenges his  admiration  for  its  grandeur.  We  soon 
found  ourselves  within  the  Palace  walls,  buffetted 
about  by  the  immense  throng  of  visitors  who, 


like  ( 

sailk 

our  \ 

walls 

of  vr 

nent 

nect( 

estec; 

man 

cove 

are  t 

time 

very 

go  t 

gard 

Tl 

by  a 

four 

ber\ 

ado) 

plac 

dail 

adis, 

coll 

whi 

edt 

of  ] 

of  ] 

up 

whi 

tair 


f-  .^  — 


O'et-  the  Atlantic. 


177 


lail   taken    place 
IC  Ciiidlt/s  ill    rliu 
cdon  Versailles, 
e  Imlcony  of  tlie 
adariie    and    the 
immediately   c)f 
idaiinted  by  the 
-iearly   foretold, 
Lafayette  pres- 
self  next  to  her, 
The  next  shout 
liimself  at  once 
!igcd  mob,  '  The 
le  would  accede 
ic   most  dearly 
vd  and  fait/iful 
tiie  Chateau  at 
lat  day,  soon  to 
f  an  infuriated 
e  that  day  this 
bited. 

in  the  massive 
oned  the  royal 
Lick  with  aston- 
ps  of  immense 
ositions  in  the 
lich  rivets  Jiim 
nd — and  chal- 
eur.  We  soon 
walls,  buffetted 
"  visitors  who, 


like  ourselves,  had  come  to  sei'  tlie  sigiils  of  V'er- 
sailles.     It  Avas  with  iniicli  diffKulty  we  elbowed 
our  way  trom  one  apartment  to  another.    On  the 
wails  are  hung  tlie  finest  paintings  in  tlio  world, 
of  various  sizes,  and  by  a  host  of  the  most  emi- 
nent  artists.     Tliose    ui    historical   events   coi< 
nected  with  the  first   F.mpire,  jiarticiilarly  inti    - 
ested  me ;  and  we  traversed,  I  was  informed,  as 
many  rooms  if  placed  in  a  direct  line  as  woulu 
cover  two  and  a  half  miles  of  ground — in  whicii 
are  exhibited  seven  miles  of  pictures— and  by  the 
time  we  had  got  through,  rest  assured,  we  were 
very  tired— so  much  so  that  we  were  unable  to 
go  through    the   whole  of  the    extensive  liowcr 
gardens  and  walks. 

The  gardens  are  divided  into  squares  formed 
by  alleys;  immense  sheets  of  water  and  elegant 
fountains,  statues,  pieces  of  architecture,  shrub- 
bery  and   '.lowers   of   almost    every   description 
adorn  the  grounds.     Well   may  this  delightful 
place  attract  the   thousands   of  visitors    it  does 
daily,  for  it  is  what  may  be  termed  literally,  a  Par- 
adise  on  earth.     The  Orangery  contains  the  finest 
collection  of  orange  trees  in  the  world,  one  of 
which  I  was  informed  is4oo  years  old.  It  was  plant- 
ed by  a  Princess  fo  Navarre,  who  gave  it  to  Anne, 
of  Britanny,  and  ultimately  became  the  property 
of  Francis  I.     Three  very  large  fountains  throw 
up   immense   sheets   of  water,    in  the  midst   of 
which  Tritons  and   Syrens  frolic.     These  foun- 
tains are  named  Diana,  Dragon  and    Neptune. 


t,  *^ 


it: 


178 


O'^r   the  AthitlU. 


ri.c  latter  IS  one  of  the  grandest  conreptiun.  of 
l.ydrau  ,c  art,  and  tl.c  effect  of  the  water  is  inde- 
scnbable.  The  mists  of  fbani  and  columns  of 
vap<,r  dlnmined  by  the  rays  of  the  sun  resemble 
ever  changing  and  fleeting  rainbows.  There  are 
numerous  other  fountains  placed  in  other  parts 
«>'  the  gn.und,  all  of  which  are  beautiful 
works  ot  art. 

The   Triannons,  which  are  small  buildings  or 
palac-es,  erected  on  a  small  scale  by  Louis  XIV 
•w^rf  r-u,s  XV    within  the  grounds,  and  derive 
heu-  name  from  the  village  which  once  occupied 
tl.e  s,te  of  the  Palace,  are  also  very  magnificent 
res.denc-es^    It    was  to  these  palaJes   the   King 
(Lou.s  XIV  )  often  retired  wheu  tired  and  weary 
ot  the  pomp  and  splendor  of  Court,  of  which  he 
became  satiated,  living  and  conducting  himself 
amon  -  his  family  upon  the  closest  intimacy,  and 
'nrog  .t.ng  almost  entirely  his  lofty  position  i.i 
I  ins  world     It  was  there  he  enjoyed  solitude  and 
quet,  and  led,  I  may  say.  a  purely  domesticated 
nte.     1  he  I  nannons  were,  nevertheless,  luxuri- 
ously furnished  and  profusely  decorated  in  the 
highest  style  of  art.     Louis  XV  also  spent  much 
ot  Ins  time  there  in  the  .society  of  his  numerous 
mistresses.     The  building  called  the  Petit  Trian- 
non  was  built  by  him,  behind  the  Grand  Trian- 
•non    ,n  order  to  give  a  residence   to   Madame 
DuBarry,  one  of  his  newly  acquired  favorites 

In   the   historic  halls  of  those  buildings  are 
carnages  used  durir. g  the  reigns  of  Louis  XVI 


1 


I.  *-. 


t  conccpliuns  of 
he  water  is  inde- 
and  columns  of 
lie  sun  lesenible 
ows.  There  are 
d  in  other  parts 
are     beautiful 

ill  buildings  or 
;  by  Louis  XIV 
nds,  and  derive 
li  once  occupied 
cry  magnificent 
laces   the   King 
ired  and  weary 
irt,  of  which  he 
liirting  himself 
t  intimacy,  and 
>fty  position  in 
ed  solitude  and 
y  domesticated 
theless,  luxuri- 
corated  in  the 
I  so  spent  much 

his  numerous 
^le  Petit  Trian- 

Grand  Trian- 
e  to  Madame 
id  favorites. 

buildings  are 
5f  Louis  XVI, 


t- 


».\ 


r 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


4^ 


<p 


k 


§ 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historicai  IVIicroreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


Na] 
Na] 
are 
littl 
Boi 
the 
imi 
exh 
tioi 
Chi 
fou 
whi 
Pri 
low 

1: 
favi 
is  c 
gar 
a  rr 
full 
stal 
floi 

A 
ma 
kn( 
wh 
of 
the 
bei 
lar 

I 


*<>■ 


^■^ 


a^liJ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


179 


Napoleon  I  and  Charles  X.  That  of  the  time  of 
Napoleon  is  massive  and  magnificent.  There 
are  also  sleighs  and  chaises  of  great  value,  and  a 
little  carriage  that  once  belonged  to  the  Duke  of 
Bordeaux.  There  are  to  be  seen  other  relics  in 
the  shape  of  valuable  harness  and  saddlery,  and 
uniforms  worn  at  the  various  courts  are  also  on 
exhibition.  Among  the  carriages  is  the  corona- 
tion carriage  of  the  first  Emperor,  and  that  of 
Charles  X,  which  cost,  with  the  harness,  about 
four  hundred  thousand  francs  or  $80,000,  all  of 
which  have  been  visited  by  Emperors,  Kings  and 
Princes  of  foreign  powers,  and  gazed  at  by  high, 
low,  rich  and  poor,  with  wonder  and  admiration. 

From  Versailles  we  went  to  St.  Cloud,  the 
favorite  residence  of  the  present  Emperor,  which 
is  called  the  "  Summer  Palace."  This  truly  ele- 
gant and  picturesque  residence  is  surrounded  by 
a  magnificent  park  of  many  broad  acres,  beauti- 
fully and  tastefully  laid  out,  with  fountains, 
statuary  in  Italian  marble,  and  shrubbery  and 
flowers  of  the  rarest  and  choicest  kind. 

We  also  passed  through  Sevres,  noted  for  the 
manufacture  of  the  celebrated  porcelain  so  well 
known  among  the  admirers  of  fine  arts ;  and, 
while  in  the  neighborhood,  we  had  the  pleasure 
of  witnessing  the  ascent  of  a  verv  large  balloon, 
the  car  of  which  contained  two  persons.  There 
being  no  wind,  it  ascended  almost  perpendicu- 
larly, making  but  little  headway  through  space. 

Having  hired  a  carriage  for  the  day,  we  pro- 


i8o 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


ceeded  at  a  brisk  pace,  and  were  soon  once  more 
within  the  walls  of  gay  Paris,  and  comfortably 
seated  in  our  hotel,  which  was  very  acceptable 
after  spending  a  whole  day  visiting  sights  far  off, 
a  great  portion  of  which  time  we  were  exposed 
to  the  extreme  heat  of  the  sun.  Yes,  such  a  day 
as  we  occasionally  experience  in  America  in  the 
month  of  July ;  "  that's  so." 

It  was  our  intention  to  proceed  to  Strasbourg, 
which  is  siiuated  on  the  Rhine,  to  see  the  cele- 
brated clock  in  the  old  Cathedral— a  wonderful 
piece  of  mechanism,  and  of  great  age— but  time 
would  not  permit ;  so  we  had  to  rest  satisfied 
with  not  proceeding  any  further  south. 


W 

a  fini 
our  1 
bank 
surrc 
pear 
man< 
land 
here 
villaj 
the  ( 
centi 
ence 
with 
the  V 
andc 
villaj 
keep 
prog 
Fran 


»WrtB51|gi>*^* 


soon  once  more 
and  comfortably 

very  acceptable 
ing  sights  far  off, 
ive  were  exposed 

Yes,  such  a  day 
1  America  in  the 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


i8i 


jd  to  Strasbourg, 
,  to  see  the  cele- 
ral — a  wonderful 
at  age — but  time 
to  rest  satisfied 
r  south. 


LETTER     XVIII. 

FRANCE,   CONTINUED. 

We  will  now  bid  gay  and  fashionable  Paris 
a  final  adieu,  and  proceed  through  Normandy  on 
our  return  to  England,  and  as  we  pass  along  the 
banks  of  the  Seine,  avc  have  a  fine  view  of  the 
surrounding  country.  How  different  it  does  ap- 
pear to  the  United  Kingdom.  The  one  (Nor- 
mandy) with  its  varied  colored  little  patches  of 
land  resembling  an  American  bed-quilt,  with 
here  and  there  a  dingy,  squalid  little  town  or 
village,  showing  no  marks  of  improvement  since 
the  days  of  the  celebrated  Dukes,  who  many 
centuries  ago  wielded  so  much  power  and  influ- 
ence on  both  sides  of  the  channel ;  and  the  other, 
with  its  broad  acres  nicely  fenced  around  with 
the  well  trimmed  black  thorn  and  other  hedges, 
and  dotted  over  with  hundreds  of  little  towns  and 
villages  of  various  colored  brick,  improving  and 
keeping  pace  with  the  times,  as  art  and  science 
progress.  Well  may  it  be  said  that  "Paris  is 
France,"  for  there  is  but  little  improvement  else- 


l82 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


where.  And  yet,  Johnny  Crapean,  seemingly  con- 
tented with  his  j'rt;v/  of  head  and  bottle  of  Vin  Or 
liinaire*  cannot  but  be  aware  of  the  vast  strides 
made  by  other  nations,  aside  from  beautifying  and 
adorning  their  capitals  !— But  ere  long  the  eye  of 
tlie  traveler  ceases  todwell  upon  those  monotonous 
little  patches  of  land,  for  in  the  distance  can  be 
seen  high  chimnies,  and  as  he  draws  nearer,  the 
spires  of  churches.  If  rge  buildings  and  shipping, 
appear  in  view,  indicating  that  he  is  nearing  a  city 
of  more  than  ordinary  size  and  importance. — 
Along  we  went  at  a  rapid  pace,  with  sundry 
screeches  from  the  iron  horse  as  it  passed  through 
and  by  certain  stations,  which  its  aristocratic  na- 
ture simply  recognized  with  a  screech  and  a  grunt 
it  ran  furiously  by,  and  ere  long  we  were  in  the 
ancient  city  of 

RouKN. — This  is  the  capital  of  Normandy,  and 
and  is  even  termed  the  "  Manchester  of  France," 
for  it  abounds  with  cotton  factories, which  produce 
the  finest  manufactured  fabrics  of  the  kind  in  the 
world,  and  which  bring  much  higher  prices  than 
tliose  manufactured  in  the  Manchester  of  Eng- 
land, and  other  places  in  Great  Britain. 

Immediately  after  our  arrival  at  the  hotel  kept 
by  an  obliging  Englishman,  who  had  linked  his 

*  Both  remarkably  cheap  and  of  good  qualit)-.  Wine  is 
generally  used  among  the  people  as  a  substitute  for  tea  and 
coffee.  (Red  wine  or  claret.)  The  loaves  aae  made' nar- 
row and  long. 


fate  wit 
proceec 
Taking 
English 
dral,  w 
which  1 
nificent 
Rollo,  I 
de  Lior 
of  disti 
marvell 
sculptu 
and  the 
which  i 
having 
of  pern 

With 
for  son- 
not,  altl 
the  pec 
relic  is 
Coeur  c 
in  1838 
formed, 
jealousl 
This  vei 

Thee 
buildinj 
one  of 
gothic  s 
dows,  a 


Cer  the  Athxutic, 


183 


emingly  con- 
tie  of  Via  Or 
;  vast  strides 
autifying  and 
ng  the  eye  of 
:  monotonous 
tance  can  be 
's  nearer,  the 
ind  shipping, 
(earing  a  city 
mportance. — 
with  sundry 
Lssed  through 
istocratic  na- 
h  and  a  grunt 
i  were  in  the 

irmandy,  and 
r  of  France," 
hich  produce 
e  kind  in  the 
r  prices  than 
;ster  of  Eng- 
ain. 

le  hotel  kept 
d  linked  his 

■alit)'.  Wine  is 
tute  for  tea  and 
aae  made''nar- 


fatc  with  an  equally  obliging  F^rench  woman,  wc 
proceeded  to  see  the  sights  of  ancient  Rouen. 
Taking  a  guide  with  us,  who  spoke  very  good 
English,  we  visited  first  the  very  fine  old  cathe- 
dral, with  its  curious  iron  spire,  a  portion  of 
which  lias  yet  to  be  elevated.  In  this  truly  mag- 
nificent edifice  rest  the  remains  of  the  famous 
Rollo,  first  duke  of  Normandy,  Richard  Coeur 
de  Lion,  and  his  brother  Henry,  and  many  others 
of  distinguished  and  ancient  celebrity.  It  is  a 
marvellous  building,  and  has  very  many  fine 
sculptured  monuments,  which  adorn  the  interior, 
and  the  front  is  adorned  with  two  towers,  one  of 
which  is  named  the  Butter  Tower,  owing  to  its 
having  been  built  with  the  proceeds  of  the  sale 
of  permissions  to  eat  butter  during  Lent. 

Within  those  walls  is  a  relic  which  England 
for  some  time  endeavored  to  obtain,  but  could 
not,  although  the  emperor  sanctioned  its  removal, 
the  people  opposed  it  in  all  their  might.  This 
relic  is  that  of  tlie  limestone  figure  of  Richard 
Coeur  de  Lion,  discovered  in  the  cathedral  choir 
in  1838,  and,  about  the  same  time,  we  were  in- 
formed, his  heart  was  also  found,  and  is  now 
jealously  guarded  in  the  Museum  of  Antiquities. 
This  venerable  building  dates  back  to  A.  D.  260. 

The  church  of  St.  Ouen  is  also  a  magnificent 
building,  of  great  antiquity,  and  is  said  to  be 
one  of  the  finest  buildings  in  the  v/orld,"  it  is  of 
gothic  architecture,  and  is  lighted  by  128  win- 
dows, and  contains  several  chapels,  beautifully 


1     % 


s84 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


and  tastefully  fitted  up.  There  are  many  otiier 
churches  of  varied  interest,  and  much  frequented 
by  the  traveler  and  tourist.  But  the  greatest 
point  of  interest,  /.  c,  the  most  interesting,  is  the 
Place  dc  la  Luccllc  in  the  square  of  which 
stands  the  monument  of  the  unfortunate  Joan  of 
Arc,  or  Maid  of  Orleans,  who  was  burned  on 
this  spot  at  the  stake  in  1431,  and  the  old  chapel, 
or  at  least  a  portion  of  it,  stands  near  by,  wherein 
she,  in  her  last  moments,  called  upon  God  to 
give  her  strength  to  go  through,  with  fortitude 
and  courage,  the  terrible  ordeal  without  shudder- 
ing. Near  by  is  also  the  Hotel  du  Bourgther- 
oulde,  so  well  known  to  antiquarians.  It  was 
built  in  the  fifteenth  century.  A  stone  tablet 
gives  a  brief  history  of  the  place,  and  enume- 
rates the  names  of  the  distinguished  persons, 
who  have  sojourned  within  its  walls  from  time 
to  time,  the  first  of  whom  was  Francis  I,  A.  D. 
1540,  and  the  last  Madame,  afterwards  Duchessc, 
de  Montpensier,  1640,  just  100  years  after  Francis 
I  first  occupied  it.  And  on  the  outer  walls  is 
rudely  carved  the  meeting  of  Francis  I  and 
Henry  VHI,  of  England,  on  the  field  of  the  cloth 
of  gold.  Those  ancient  buildings  are  located  in 
the  oldest  part  of  the  city,  where  the  streets  are 
so  narrow  that  the  overhanging  tops  and  roofs 
of  the  old  houses  very  near  form  an  arching 
above  your  head. 

The  Palace  de  Justice  is  an  exceedingly  inter- 
esting place.    Our  guide  introduced  us  Avithin 


its  walls, 
court  wi 
counsel  f 
in  behalf 
])orson  o 
had  mun 
had  to  pa 

We  ob; 
ancient  c 
as  ever,  i 
had  ever 
ing  out  < 
ments,  be 
one  of  w 
the  publi 
as  a  proi 
arranginj 
After  vis 
viewing 
old  gate; 
old  city 
our  guid 
church  ol 
rine's  Hil 
over  a  dil 
beautiful 
country  i 
city,  is  tl 
means  be 

The  c\\ 
and  goth 


O'er  the  Athiittic, 


185 


many  oliicr 
frequented 
he  greatest 
sting,  is  tlie 
of  whidi 
latc  Joan  of 
burned  on 
old  chapel, 
by,  wherein 
ion  God  to 
th  fortitude 
lut  shudder- 
Bourgther- 
ns.  It  was 
itone  tablet 
ind  enume- 
cd  persons, 
s  from  time 
cis  I,  A.  D. 
s  Duchesse, 
fter  Francis 
ter  walls  is 
mcis  I  and 
of  the  cloth 
e  located  in 
;  streets  are 
•s  and  roofs 
an   arching 

iingly  inter- 
\  us  within 


its  walls,  walking  upon  tip  toes,  for  the  criminal 
court  was  in  session,  and  one  of  the  leading 
counsel  for  the  prisoner,  was  addressing  the  jury 
in  behalf  of  tiie  unfortunate  individual  in  the 
])orson  of  a  young  woman,  who,  it  was  alleged, 
had  murdered  her  illegitimate  child;  hence,  we 
had  to  pass  through  with  a  noiseless  step. 

We  observed,  as  we  went  along,  the  far-famed 
ancient  ceiling,  carved  in  oak,  appearing  as  fresh 
as  ever,  and  surpassing  anything  of  the  kind  I 
had  ever  seen,  so  elaborately  carved  is  it.  Pass- 
ing out  of  this  room  we  entered  other  apart- 
ments, bearing  unmistakable  marks  of  old  age, 
one  of  which  is  used  by  the  Counsellors  at  Law, 
the  public,  and  those  interested  in  court  matters, 
as  a  promenading  and  discussing  room,  and  for 
arranging  and  settling  mattcys  out  of  Court. 
After  visiting  several  other  places  of  note,  and 
viewing  with  wondering  admiration  the  various 
old  gates  and  classic  buildings  with  which  the 
old  city  abounds,  we  took  a  carriage,  and  with 
our  guide  drove  to  visit  the  new  and  handsome 
church  of  Notre  Dame  Le  Boscre,  on  St.  Catha- 
rine's Hill.  From  Rouen  to  this  place,  and  back 
over  a  different  road  to  that  we  went  by  is  a  most 
beautiful  drive,  and  the  view  from  the  hill  of  the 
country  round,  including  the  river  Seine  and  the 
city,  is  the  most  magnificent,  and  should  by  all 
means  be  seen  by  strangers  visiting  Rouen. 

The  church  is  a  splendid  structure  of  modern 
and  gothic  architecture  combined,  and  is  deco- 


, .« 


r-' 


M 

4  ' 


1 86 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


rated  in  a  style  wlicrciii  the  cost  must  have  been 
a  secondary  consideration;  the  whole  of  it  being 
finished  in  elaborate  gilt  carved  work.  Indeed, 
it  has  more  the  appearance  of  an  opera  house 
than  a  place  of  worship,  so  profuse  are  the  deco- 
rations. We  will  now  have  to  leave  the  old  cap- 
ital of  Normandy  in  all  its  grandeur  and  mag- 
nificence, and  take  the  cars  for — 

Dieppe— another  of  the  ancient  towns  of  old 
Normandy,  a  place  of  no  mean  pretensions,  for 
it  has  a  population  of  probably  twenty  thousand 
inhabitants,  and  a  castle  and  citadel  commanding 
the  entrance  of  the  harbor.  Very  fine  bathing  is 
to  be  had  in  the  neighborhood;  and  the  town, 
during  the  summer  months,  is  frequented  by  vis- 
itors from  all  parts  of  Europe  and  America,  to 
accommodate  whom  some  very  fine  hotels  are 
erected  on  the  heights  overlooking  its  beautiful 
beach  and  placid  water.  The  peculiar  manufac- 
tures of  tlie  place  are  in  ivory,  such  as  little 
images  chiefly  connected  with  the  Catholic  faith, 
specimens  of  which  are  to  be  seen  in  the  windows 
of  the  shops  for  sale. 

On  our  arrival  here  we  were  put  to  considera- 
ble trouble,  owing  to  the  steamer  in  waiting  to 
convey  us  across  the  channel  being  overcrowd- 
ed with  passengers  that  I  deemed  it  advisable  to 
remain  over  until  the  next  steamer  sailed  on  the 
following  day,  but  scarcely  had  we  partaken  of 
supper  and  made  preparation  to  retire  for  the 
night,    I    was     informed    that    the    agents    of 


the  line  hi 
in  a  few  1 
So  havini 
paid  our  L 
hotel,  and 
which  I  fo 
cessor,  bi 
quickly  d( 
in  commoi 

Early  m 
bowing//// 
caused  by 
a  "spankii 
enough,  it 
was  "  dead- 

This  wa 
voyages  I 
badly  com 
sengers,  c 
Paris,  all  ( 
Neptune,  a 
of  the  brii 
throw  cons 
the  deck,  c 
them,  to  1 
coupled  wi 
poor  votar 
himself  on 
the  weak  s( 
above  and  1 
women    ar 


.  have  been 
of  it  being 
k.  Indeed, 
pera  house 
re  tlie  deco- 
he  old  cap- 
•  and  mag- 

wns  of  old 
ensions,  for 
y  thousand 
)mmanding 
;  bathing  is 
'.  the  town, 
ited  by  vis- 
America,  to 
hotels  are 
;s  beautiful 
r  manufac- 
h  as  little 
holic  faith> 
le  windows 

considera- 
waiting  to 
>vercrowd- 
ivisable  to 
led  on  the 
)artaken  of 
re  for  the 
agents    of 


O'er  t/ic  At/antic. 


187 


the  line  had  ordered  an  extra  steamer  lu  proceed 
in  a  few  hours  after  the  sailing  of  the  other. 
So  having  secured  our  baggage  once  more  and 
paid  our  bill,  we  took  leave  oi  Alonsle  Host,  of  the 
hotel,  and  were  soon  on  board  the  steamer, 
which  I  found  equally  as  crowded  as  its  prede- 
cessor, but  ratlier  than  return  to  the  hotel  I 
quickly  determined  to  proceed  and  run  all  risk 
in  common  with  our  fellow  passengers. 

Early  morning  saw  us  steam  out  of  the  harbor, 
bowing  ungnxcefully  to  a  "  short  and  troubled  sea," 
caused  by  what  is  termed  among  sea-faring  men 
a  "  spanking  breeze,"  but  although  not  more  than 
enough,  it  came  from  tlie  wrong  t/ircdion,  for  it 
was  "  dead-on-end." 

This  was  one  of  the  most  disagreeable  sea 
voyages  I  ever  experienced— the  vessel  small, 
badly  constructed,  and  over-crowded  with  pas- 
sengers, chiefly  excursionists  returning  from 
Paris,  all  of  whom  were  quickly  in  the  arms  of 
Neptune,  and  paying  sickly  tributes  to  his  majesty 
of  the  briny  deep,  who  now  and  again  would 
throw  considerable  of  his  briny  element  all  over 
the  deck,  causing  the  lubbers,  as  he  would  term 
them,  to  look  more  dead  than  alive,  which, 
coupled  with  its  being  quite  cold,  made  many  a 
poor  votary  to  pleasure  to  curse  his  fate  and  wish 
himself  once  more  in  hold  Hingland !  Among 
the  weak  stomachs  which  so  generally  prevailed 
above  and  below  decks  was  a  good  sprinkling  of 
women    and    children,  Avhose    sufferings    were 


^-#" 


i8« 


O'er  l/u  Atlantic. 


I 


intense;  iiulcud,  it  is  almost  impossible  for  me 
to  describe  the  fimoiint  c)f  suffering,  for  in  the 
little  cabin  overcome  by  heat  and  sickness,  laid 
the  poi  r  women  and  children  two  dcc]),  and  their 
stalwart  companions  on  deck,  literally  soaked 
with  salt  water,  too  sick  and  helpless  to  render 
them  any  assistance.  Such  is  but  a  feeble  de- 
scription of  the  suffering  on  board  the  little 
lOik/f  snell  of  a  boat,  whicii,  in  my  opinion,  was 
constructed  more  for  the  convenience  of  the 
proprietors  than  their  passengers.  Oh,  yes!  find 
nic  an  English  railway  or  steamboat  company 
who  cater  for  the  comfort  of  the  public,  and  I 
will  find  the  north  pole.  I  know  no  other, 
remedy  to  bring  them  to  a  realizatitjn  of  the 
truth  than  by  the  government  confiscating  and 
consigning  to  the  flames  two-thirds  of  their  vile 
railway  cars  and  steamboats. — At  last,  after  a 
delay  of  an  hour  and  a  half  waiting  for  tide  off 
the  harbor  of  New  Haven,  we  were  safely  landed 
on  the  quay,  and  a  more  miserable  and  forlorn  set 
of  creatures  seldom  or  ever  assembled  together.* 
As  soon  as  our  baggage  was  duly  examined  by  the 
custom  house  officers,  we  took  our  seats  in  the 
cars,  and,  after  two  hours'  ride,  arrived,  tired  and 
weary,  at  the  London  bridge  station ;  and  herfe 
ends  our  trip  to  France. 

*Thc  writer  suffered  more  in  going  to  and  from  Dieppe 
than  he  did  the  whole  of  the  long  sea  voyage,  indeed,  it 
was  the  only  time  he  experienced  any  sensation  of  sea- 
sickness. 


London 
hotel,  we  < 
soon  whir 
in  a  hixnso 
Ix)ndon. 
ere  I  com; 
we  visite( 
horse  vch 
dation  of 
behind,  pc 
counter  bi 
shafts  rai 
animal,  ai 
Yet  these 
and  coml 
licensed  I 
cabs  in  th 

Well,  a 
were  soon 
left,  and 
Churchya 


0\t   the  Atlanlic. 


189 


bic  fur  mc 
for  ill  the 
•knoss,  laid 
p,  and  tlicir 
lly  soaked 
;  to  render 
a  feeble  de- 
I  the  little 
pinion,  was 
nee  of  the 
h,  yes !  lind 
,t  company 
iblic,  and  I 
no  other, 
tion  of  the 
;cating  and 
)f  their  vile 
ast,  after  a 
for  tide  off 
ifely  landed 
1  forlorn  set 
1  together.* 
lined  by  the 
seats  in  the 
d,  tired  and 
;  and  herfe 


1  from  Dieppe 
go,  indeed,  it 
iation  of   sea- 


LKTTER  XIX. 

KNOI.ANJ),  CON  riNl'Kl). 

London  Acain. — After  resting  a  day  in  our 
hotel,  we  once  more  took  to  the  street,  and  were 
soon  whirling  along  at  a  fast  rate,  cosily  seated 
in  a  fiansoiit,  to  sec  some  more  of  the  sights  of 
London.  Hut  a  few  words  about  the  "hansom" 
ere  I  commence  to  give  an  account  of  the  place 
we  visited,  which  is  nothing  more  than  a  one- 
horse  vehicle  upon  two  wheels,  for  the  acconuiio- 
dation  of  two  persons,  driven  by  a  man  who  sits 
behind,  perched  up  as  though  he  were  there  to 
counter  balance  the  weight  of  the  horse,  for  the 
shafts  raise  to  the  level  with  the  back  of  the 
animal,  and  have  a  very  awkward  appearance. 
Yet  these  vehicles  are  easy  of  ingress  and  egress, 
and  combine  comfort  with  speed,  for  they  are 
licensed  to  travel  faster  than  any  other  of  the 
cabs  in  the  metropolis. 

Well,  after  turning  a  great  many  corners  wc 
were  soon  driving  along  Cheapside,  then  to  the 
left,  and  away  we  went  through  St.  Paul's 
Churchyard,    the    great     Cathedral    occupying 


190 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


almost  tlie  whole  of  the  square,  causing  the 
shops  (stores)  to  look  dingy  and  gloomy  without 
and  within.  Then  onward,  down  Ludgate  Hill, 
through  Temple  Bar,  which  was  having  its  dingy 
old  face  washed  by  tiie  City  Fathers,  along  the 
Strand,  past  Somerset  Ho'ise,  the  Charing  Cross 
Hotel,  and  we  were  in  Trafalgar  Square.  Away 
we  went  down  Parliament  street,  past  the  Admir- 
alty and  Horse  Guards,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
more  we  were  in  sight  of  the  great 

Houses  of  Parliament.— Those  buildings  are 
said  to  be  unsurpassed  by  any  other  of  the  kind 
in  the  known  world*.  The. exterior  is  adorned 
with  a  multitude  of  towers  of  various  sizes,  vary- 
ing from  the  great  clock  tower  down,  and  the 
elaborate  workmanship  of  the  whole  baffles  any 
description  I  can  give.  The  Houses  of  Lords 
and  Commons  are  elegant  rooms  in  every  re- 
spect, and  the  whole  of  the  Chambers  arc  fur- 
nished in  massive  grand  style. — Near  by  is 
Westminister  Abbey,  a  magnificent  old  building, 
which  has  stood  the  test  of  centuries,  and  the 
interior  of  which  is  embellished  with  the  finest 
sculptured  tombs  of  kings,  queens,  princes  and 
others  that  art  could  perfect. — Passing  from  here 
we  found  ourselves  again  in  front  of  the  Horse 

*It  is  a  pity  that  so  magnificent  a  structure  should  ever 
have  been  erected  on  the  low  bank  of  a  sluggish,  mudd)' 
river,  (the  Thames.)  They  are  wrorthy  a  far  more  elevated 
position,  which  would  add  much  to  their  grandeur  and 
beauty. 


G  uan 

black 

hemic 

resemi 

being. 

all     p 

less   t 

genen 

when 

wende 

the  si 

immei 

wide  t 

I  have 

dela( 

Somei 

Garde 

great ( 

regret 

but  aj 

ment, 

Tussai 

entert: 

that  it 

gorge( 

crown 

are  m( 

cental 

that  a 

three  < 

he  us 


U 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


191 


*e,  causing  the 
aflooniy  without 
n  Ludgate  Hill, 
laving  its  dingy 
thcrs,  along  the 
Charing  Cross 
Square.  Away 
past  the  Adniir- 
a  few  minutes 
It 

e  buildings  are 
;her  of  the  kind 
erior  is  adorned 
ions  sizes,  vary- 
down,  and  the 
hole  baffles  any 
ouses  of  Lords 
US  in  every  re- 
imbers  arc  fur- 
. — Near  by  is 
nt  old  building, 
ituries,  and  the 
with  the  finest 
ns,  princes  and 
ssing  from  here 
It  of  the  Horse 


cturc  should  ever 

a  sluggish,  mudd)' 

far  more  elevated 

leir  grandeur  and 


Guards,  admiring  the  sentry,  who  sat  on  his  coal 
black  steed  with  a  coat  like  velvet,  draped  in 
hemlet  and  cuirass,  as  immovable  as  a  statue, 
resembling  more  a  figure  in  wax  than  a  live 
being.  The  soldiers  of  the  Horse  Guards  are 
all  picked  men,  measuring  none  of  them 
less  than  six  feet  out  of  their  boots,  and  are 
generally  -n  attendance  upon  the  Queen's  person 
when  apppearing  in  jniblic— From  here  we 
wended  our  way  to  Trafalgar  Square,  and  viewed 
the  sight  of  Nelson's  pillar  or  monument,  with 
immense  crouching  lions  on  each  angle  of  its 
wide  base.  I  consider  this  place  the  finest  square 
I  have  ever  seen,  not  even  excepting  the  Place 
de  la  Concorde,  in  Paris.  We  afterwards  visited 
Somerset  House,  the  National  Gallery,  Zoological 
Gardens,  and  other  places  in  and  around  the 
great  city,  all  of  which  were  "  big  sights,"  and  I 
regret  that  time  won't  permit  me  giving  them 
but  a  passing  remark.  As  to  places  of  amuse- 
ment, or  rather  entertainment,  I  found  Madame 
Tussaud's  exhibition  of  wax  figures  the  most 
entertaining,  and  very  interesting  also.  It  is  all 
that  it  is  represented  to  be.  The  life  like  figures, 
gorgeously  attired,  especially  those  of  the 
crowned  heads  of  Europe  and  foreign  princes, 
are  most  magnificent.  And  the  Napoleon  rooms 
contain  relics  associated  with  the  first  empire 
that  are  highly  interesting,  which  even  include 
three  of  his  carriages,  one  of  which  is  that  which 
he  used    and    escaped    from  during  that    ever 


•-'-V- 


192 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


memorable  battle  which  proved  so  disastrous  to 
him,  and  sent  him  to  die  in  exile — that  of  Water- 
loo. To  me  this  was  very  interesting  indeed.  I 
opened  the  door,  got  in,  and  sat  on  the  same 
cushion  which  the  ^rcat  little  man  hail  so  often 
occupied  wlien  going  forth  to  battle,  causing 
monarchs  to  tremble  at  what  would  be  the  result. 
It  is  very  strongly  built,  lined  with  dark  blue 
cloth,  fitted  within  with  drawers,  a  writing  desk, 
lamp,  map,  racks,  &c.,  and  under  tiie  coachman's 
seat  is  an  iron  bedstead,  and  various  other  things 
connected  with  camp  life,  all  of  which  were 
found,  as  well  as  some  very  valuable  jewelry, 
diamonds  and  clothing  by  the  Prussians  on  the 
spot  from  where  he  effected  his  miraculous 
escape. 

Madame  Tussaud  has  nojv  been  dead  several 
years,  but  the  business  is  still  carried  on  by  the 
sons  in  the  old  firm  name,  and  near  to  the 
entrance  in  the  main  saloon  stands  a  very  faith- 
ful representation  of  the  old  lady  in  wax,  exe- 
cuted by  herself  when  living,  and  so  near  to  life 
is  the  figure,  snuff  box  in  hand,  and  slightly 
moving  her  head  occasionally,  as  does  also  that  of 
old  Cobbett,  sitting  near  by,  that  but  few  take 
them  for  what  they  are,  a  mere  representation  of 
what  was  once  mortal.  On  either  side  of  the 
entrance  doors  stands  neatly  attired  life-like 
figures  of  Washington  and  Ben  Franklin,  the 
former  dressed  in  plain  black  velvet  with  but 
few  ornaments,  and  the  latter  in  the  very  plain 


homespun 

unassuminj 

amid  the  sp 

and  at  the 

of  the  late 

and  Gener 

which  did  ] 

proportion, 

wliat  they  s 

there  were 

cuted.     Lei 

be  rcmediec 

at  them  wit 

and  admira 

The  Wki 

room,  but  r 

tains  the  lif 

in   state   ur 

Marshal's  \ 

hung  in  gla 

badges,  &c. 

abroad,  and 

of  the  Duke 

are  also  ver 

the  history  ( 

room,  all  o) 

the  admirer 

during  the  1 

of  Britain 

proved  so  fa 

and  followei 

H 


'-'-^ 


isastrous  to 
t  of  Watei- 
;  indeed.  I 
n  the  same 
lad  so  often 
le,  causing 
;  the  result, 
dark  blue 
riting  desk, 
coachman's 
ther  things 
k'hich  were 
tie  jewelry, 
ians  on  the 
miraculous 

ead  several 
d  on  by  tlie 
ear  to   the 

very  faith- 
i  wax,  exe- 
near  to  life 
id  slightly 
ilso  that  of 
t  few  take 
entation  of 
ide  of  the 
d  life-like 
mklin,  the 
b  with   but 

very  plain 


O'er  t/ic  Atlantic. 


»93 


homespun  brown  cloth  of  the  period,  in  which 
unassuming  garb  lie  figured  so  conspicuously 
amid  the  splendor  and  pomp  of  European  Courts; 
and  at  the  upper  end  of  this  saloon  are  figures 
i)f  the  late  President  Lincoln,  President  Johnson, 
and  Generals  Grant  and  McClellan,  neither  of 
which  did  I  consider  good,  for  they  were  out  of 
proportion,  and  lacked  much  to  make  them 
what  they  should  or  ought  to  be.  In  my  opinion 
there  were  none  in  the  building  so  badly  exe- 
cuted. Let  us  hope  that  the  defects  will  ere  long 
lie  remedied,  so  that  American  visitors  can  look 
at  them  with  pleasure  and  with  a  feeling  of  pride 
and  admiration. 

The  Wki.lington   Roo.\f,    like   tlie    Napoleon 
room,  but  recently  added  to  the  collection,  con- 
tains the  life-like  figure  of  the  Iron  Duke,  lying 
in   state   under   the   canopy,  draped  in   a  Field 
Marshal's   uniform,   and   around   the   room   are 
hung  in  glass  cases,  exact  copies  of  tlie  various 
badges,  &c.,  bestowed  upon    him   at  home  and 
abroad,  and  also  many  relics  once  the  property 
of  the  Duke  when  sojourning  upon  earth.     There 
are  also  very  many  other  articles  connected  with 
the  history  of  the  great  m^n,  in  and  around  the 
room,  all  of  which  must  be  very  interesting  to 
the  admirers  of  the  man  who  figured  so  much 
during  the  hostile  meetings  between  tlie  troops 
of  Britain    and    those    of   France,   and    whicli 
proved  so  fatal  to  the  first  Emperor,  his  family 
and  followers. 

H 


194 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


In  conclusion,  before  I  take  my  leave  of  this 
truly  beautiful  and  magnificent  place  of  enter- 
tainment, I  wisii  to  remark  that  it  appears  far 
more  beautiful  at  nigiit,  wlien  the  effect  is  most 
brilliant,  tiic  gayly  dressed  figures  with  orders 
and  jewelry,  dazzling  the  eye,  and  appearing 
grand  in  the  extreme. 

Before  leaving  Lond(jn  we  visited  the  Taber- 
nacle, at  the  Elephant  and  Castle,  and  had  the 
pleasure  of  hearing  the  world-renowned  Spur- 
geon  address  a  congregation  of  not  less  than 
S,ooo  persons— indeed,  I  was  informed  that  there 
were  7,000  present. 

Spurgeon  is  decidedly  a  great  man — a  plain 
matter-of-foct  mai^  is  he,  whose  soul-stirring 
eloquence  is  astonishing,  and  who  preaches  so 
that  his  congregation  can  understand  the  mean- 
ing of  the  text  thoroughly  ;  hence,  why  he  has 
so  many  admirers.  His  style  of  oratory  is  such 
that  no  person  can  for  one  moment  cease  to  listen 
to  his  plain  unassuming  address,  for  he  rivets 
the  attention  of  the  most  sluggish.  Upon  this 
occasion,  after  reading  portions  of  the  Scriptures, 
which  he  expounded  as  he  read  them,  he  drew 
his  text  from  Job  14,  14th  verse:  "All  the  days 
of  my  appointed  time  will  I  wait,  till  my  change 
come."  This  subject  he  handled  in  a  masterly 
style  for  one  hour,  and  in  a  clear,  audible  voice, 
apparently  without  any  stress,  and  certainly 
without  being  at  a  loss  for  a  word  during  the 
whole  time,  but  with  much  eloquence  expounded 


tl 
b> 
h 
hi 
tl 
at 
w 
ai 
cc 
Sj 
d< 
be 
L( 
pa 

or 
sii 
sir 
so 
eff 

ga 
of 

Sp 
am 
no 
ba( 
wh 
nol 


I  I 


tic. 

3  my  leave  of  this 
:nt  place  of  enter- 
that  it  appears  far 
1  the  effect  is  most 
gures  with  orders 
e,  and  appearing 

visited  the  Tabcr- 
xstle,  and  had  the 
d-renowned  Spur- 
1  of  not  less  than 
nformed  that  there 

reat  man — a  plain 
hose    soul-stirring 

who  preaches  so 
lerstand  the  mean- 
lence,  wliy  he  has 
of  oratory  is  such 
lent  cease  to  listen 
Iress,  for  he  rivets 
Bfgish.  Upon  this 
>  of  the  Scriptures, 
;ad  them,  he  drew 
e  :  "  All  the  days 
ait,  till  my  change 
lied  in  a  masterly 
ear,  audible  voice, 
ss,  and    certainly 

word  during  the 
juence  expounded 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


1 95 


the  position  of  Job  driven  to  desperation  by 
bodily  pains  and  the  exasperating  remarits  fif 
his  wife,  a  sore  trial  iipon  his  patience,  causing 
him  to  cry,  "  Oh,  tiiat  Thou  wouldst  hide  me  in 
the  grave."  Mr.  Spurgeon  then  called  tiic 
attention  of  liis  hearers  to  tlie  aspect  of  life 
which  Job  gives  us,  his  estimates  of  our  woric, 
and  to  his  view  of  the  future,  ending  his  dis- 
course on  the  blessedness  of  sudden  death. 
Said  he,  "  Tliere  is  much  to  be  envied  in  sudden 
death.  I  never  could  understand  why  it  should 
be  put  in  the  Litany  «  From  sudden  death,  good 
Lord  deliver  us!'  So  long  as  we  can  die  pre- 
pared, let  the  change  come  suddenly,"  &c.,  &c. 

In  this  immense  house  of  worship  there  is  no 
organ,  nor  any  other  musical  instrument.     The 
singing  is  purely  congregational— and  oJi !  such 
singing  !     Imagine  s,ooo  voices  mingling  in  one 
song  to  the   worship   of  Almighty  God!     The 
effect   is  grand— nay,  sublime.      And    while  he 
gave  out  the  hymn,  verse  after  verse,  the  falling 
of  a  three  cent  coin  to  the  floor  might  be  heard. 
Apart    from    his  ability    as  a  preacher,   Mr. 
Spurgeon,  I  was  informed,  is  doing  an  immense 
amount  of  good  in  various  ways.     "  And  there  is 
not,"  said  my  informant,  as  we  rode  in  a  stage 
back  to  London  bridge,  "  a  man  in  all  London 
who    works    harder    than   Spurgeon.      He  has 
nobly  earned  the  proud  position  he  now  holds, 


196 


o'er  the  Atlantic. 


and  is  deserving  of  all  the  aid  and  support  we 
can  give  him."     A  great  man  truly  is  Spurgeon. 

I  must  now  leave  my  readers  for  the  present, 
and  ask  them  to  meet  me  in  my  next  in  the 
city  of  Manchester.     Adieu. 


\i 


Hav 

seeing 

forego 

would 

to  my 

of  Auj 

our  d( 

the  L( 

laid  roi 

the  rat 

first  p 

from 

"  Mug! 

one  hou, 

only 

suffirie 

snatch 

immedi 

your  se 

ing  an 


support  we 
Spurgeon. 

the  present, 
next   in   the 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


197 


LETTER  XX. 

ENGLAND,   CONTINUED. 

Having  devoted  all  the  time  we  could  spare  to 
seeing  London  and  its  neighborhood,  I  had  to 
forego  the  pleasure  of  visiting  many  ])laccs  that 
would  have  been  interesting  to  me  and  probably 
to  my  readers.     So  on  the  morning  of  the  27th 
of  August  we  left  the  great  metropolis,  taking 
our  departure  from  Euston  Square  Station,  by 
the  London  &  Northwestern  Railway,  the  best 
laid  road  in  all  England,  over  which  we  traveled  at 
the  rate  of  upwards  of  sixty  miles  an  hour.     The 
first  place  we  stopped  at  was  Rugby,  84  miles 
from    London,    (celebrated     now    as    Dickens' 
"  Mugby  Junction,'^)  which  distance  was  run  in 
one  hour  and  ttventy  minutes  !     There  we  stopped 
only    three     minutes,    affording     me     scarcely 
suffirient  time  to  reach  the  refreshment  rooms  to 
snatch  a  sandwich  and  pay  for  it,  for  almost 
immediately  was  heard  the  guard's  voice,  "  Take 
your  seats,  if  you  please,"  followed  by  the  bang- 
ing and    locking    of   carriage  doors,  and  the 


I 

I! 


11,1 


t98 


O'er  the  Atlantit. 


appearance  of  the  ticket  inspector,  with  "  Show 
your  tickets,  please,"  and  a  polite  "  thank  you," 
then  one,  two,  tliree,  four,  <'ounting  the  number 
of  passengers  in  each  compartment,  with  tlic 
remark,  "  All  right,"  time  was  called,  and  the 
slirill  starting  wliistle  of  the  guard  was  heard  as 
the  signal  for  the  immense  train  to  proceed  on 
its  journey.  Away  we  went  past  towns  and  vil- 
lages, through  various  stations,  at  a  fearful  rate, 
away  past  Staflord,  celebrated  for  its  potteries, 
and  ere  long  we  were  in  tlie  elegant  station  at 
("rewe,  where  we  had  to  change  carriages,  tiie 
through  "  Lightning  Express"  going  on  direct  to 
Liverpool. — And  now,  before  taking  our  seats  in 
tlie  other  train,  1  will  avail  myself  of  the  oppor- 
tunity to  explain  h(jw  the  Lightning  Express 
and  .Mail  Trains  on  the  L.  &  N.  W.  Road  take  in 
water  for  the  locomotive,  and  how  the  mail  bags 
are  delivered  and  received,  without  stopping  or 
even  slacking  speed.  As  regards  supplying 
water:  At  various  pl.^ces  on  the  road  are  laid  in 
the  centre  of  the  track  some  two  or  three  miles 
of  iron  gutters,  through  which  a  continual  stream 
of  water  tlows.  Jhose  gutters  are  about  four- 
teen inches  wide  and  eight  inches  deep,  and  as 
the  tander  attached  to  the  engine  passes  over 
them,  a  suction  pipe  connects  with  the  water, 
which,  caused  by  the  speed,  fills  the  tank  to  over- 
flowing ere  the  engine  passes  over  the  length  of 
the  gutter.  Thus  there  is  no  delay  in  stopping 
to  take  in  water.     And  then  as  to  the  mail  bags : 


On  the  oi 
attached 
tact  with 
tlie  statio 
causes  a  5 
mail  is  sa 
hands  of 
riage.     T 
ner,  altho 
in  railroa 
the  simpl 
was  only 
in  genen 
great   jur 
our  way, 
traveled  a 
in  what 
train,  whi 
view   of 
houses  on 
of  hewn  s 
tastefully 
ful    trimr 
fences  foi 
together 
the  deep 
of   hay    ji 
whole  CO 

*Much  of 
hardened,  at 
ing  it  imper 


h " Show 
ink  you," 
;  number 
with  the 
,  and  the 
;  lie.ird  ;is 
roceed  on 
s  and  vil- 
irful  rate, 
potteries, 
station  at 
iajj:es,  tiie 
1  direct  to 
ir  scats  in 
he  opj)or- 
Express 
id  take  in 
mail  bafi^s 
)pping  or 
iiipplying 
ire  laid  in 
irce  miles 
lal  stream 
)out  four- 
;p,  and  as 
isses  over 
he  water, 
k  to  over- 
length  of 
I  stopping 
nail  bags : 


O'er  the  Athnlic. 


X99 


On  the  outside  of  the  mail  carrii»gc  i .  a  netting 
attached  to  an  iron  frame,  which  comes  in  con- 
tact with  the  mail  bags  hung  on  a  post,  fixed  on 
the  stJition  platform,  which,  by  the  force  of  speed, 
causes  a  spring  to  give  way,  and  Her  Majesty's 
mail  is  safely  within  the  netting,  and  soon  in  the 
hands  of  the  guard  in  charge  of  the  mail  car- 
riage. The  mails  are  delivered  in  a  similar  man- 
ner, although  this  to  me  was  quite  a  new  feature 
in  railroad  traveling.  I  was  not  astonished  when 
the  simplicity  of  both  were  explained  to  me,  and 
was  only  surprised  that  both  inventions  were  not 
in  general  use.  Leaving  Crewe,  one  of  the 
great  junctions  of  England,  we  proceeded  (m 
our  way,  but  not  at  so  fast  a  speed  as  that  we 
traveled  at  from  London,  for  we  were  then  riding 
in  what  the  Englishman  terms  a  Parliamentary 
train,  whicli  enabled  us  to  have  a  more  distinct 
view  of  the  country  and  the  various  station 
liouses  on  the  road,  which  are  .substantially  built 
of  hewn  stone  and  fine  brick,*  surrounded  with 
tastefully  laid  out  flower  gardens,  and  the  beauti- 
ful trimmed  thorn  hedges  which  serve  as 
fences  for  hundreds  of  miles  along  the  lines, 
together  with  the  neatly  sodded  slopes  in 
the  deep  cuts,  on  which  thousands  of  tons 
of  hay  are  mowed  every  season,  gives  the 
whole  country  a  most   beautiful  and  charming 

*Much  of  the  brick  used  for  building  in  England  are  well 
hardened,  and  are  finished  on  one  side  with  a  gloss,  render- 
ing it  impervious  to  wet. 


21 PO 


O'gf  the  Atlantic. 


appcaraiuc.  \Vc  were  soon  in  Stockporl,  and 
travcrsiniif  tlic  line  of  railway  elevated  above 
houses  and  factories  eight  and  nine  stories  high. 
t)n  we  went,  turning  a  curve  to  the  left  at  a 
steady  speed,  when  scores  of  very  high  chimneys 
appeared  in  tlic  distance,  from  which  long  lines 
of  bhck  smoke  streamed  forth,  and  mingled 
with  the  clouds  in  the  heavens,  and  in  a  little 
while  we  were  made  aware  of  being  in  the  great 
city  of  dry  floods. 

Manchester. — This  great  cotton  metropolis 
of  the  world,  enveloped  in  smoke,  is  situated 
on  the  banks  of  the  river  Irwell,  in  the  county 
of  Lancaster.  We  stayed  but  a  few  days, 
during  which  time  the  "  Liverpool  &  Manchester 
Agricultural  Society"  held  their  annual  fair 
in  the  neighborhood,  which,  of  course,  we 
visited,  and  I  was  very  much  pleased  with  the 
exhibition.  This  fair  is  frequented  by,  and  open 
for  competition  to  the  counties  of  York  and 
Chester.  Consequently  the  collection  was  very 
fine,  comprising  horses,  cattle,  sheep,  hogs,  dogs, 
poultry,  farm  produce,  machinery,  (principally 
connected  with  farming),  wagons,  carts,  carriages, 
and  a  host  of  articles  too  numerous  to  mention, 
among  which  were  some  of  American  manufac- 
ture, such  as  washing  machines,  wringers,  &c. 
The  exhibition  of  horses  was  yery  fine,  for  there 
was  the  graceful  thorough-bred  Hunter,  the 
Galloway,  the  Pony,  and  lastly  the  noble  and 
majestic    Draught   Horse,   so    well    known    in 


England,  \ 
he  moves 
Manche 
was  simpl 
uncf,  whci 
Knighted 
Sal  ford  (t 
into  Man 
became  a 
improvem 
several  v 
streets  an 
the  Court 
splendid 
iences,  vc 
any  other 
Atheneum 
street,  are 
latter  is  •, 
seeing.  1 
street,  anc 
of  erectio 
other  buil 
any  in  all 
form  a  sqi 
occupied 
approachc 
very  wide 
for  a  Coui 
The  princ: 
with   goo 

H* 


''     .«l*t*iHi 


O'er  the  Atlanti(. 


301 


vjxtrl,  and 
ted  above 
orics  higli. 
e  left  at  a 
chimneys 
lonpf  lines 
i  mingled 
in  a  little 
1  the  great 

metropolis 
s  sit  uated 
the  county 
few  days, 
Manchester 
inual  fair 
ourse,  we 
i  with  the 
,  and  open 
York  and 
I  was  very 
logs,  dogs, 
jrincipally 
,  carriages, 

0  mention, 

1  manufac- 
iHgers,  &c. 
;,  for  there 
unter,  the 
noble  and 
known    in 


liugland,  wlujsc  tread  makes  llic  carili  irciiiljlu  as 
lie  moves  leisurely  aloiii;. 

Manchester,  until  vitliiii  a  'i^^w  yc^uv^  ago, 
was  simply  a  town,  but  of  coiisidorablc  import- 
ance, when  Her  Majesty,  the  Ouccn,  visited  it,  uud 
Knighted  the  Mayor,  now  Sir  John  Potter.  When 
Salford  (the  sec  of  the  Hishop)  was  incorporated 
into  Manchester,  and  the  great  cotton  town 
became  a  city,  since  which  time  the  march  of 
improvement  has  been  very  great ;  and  now 
several  very  fine  public  buildings  adorn  its 
streets  and  scpiares,  among  wiiich  I  may  name 
the  Court  House  (Town  Hall),  erected  in  1866,  a 
splendid  biuldiiig,  iinccpialled  for  its  conven- 
iences, ventilation,  and  style  of  architecture  by 
any  other  iMiilding  of  the  kind  in  England.  The 
Atheneum  and  Royal  Institution,  on  Mosley 
street,  are  also  very  splendid  buildings.  In  the 
latter  is  an  exhibition  of  paintings  well  worth 
seeing.  And  the  Royal  Exchange,  on  Market 
street,  and  St.  Ann's  Square,  now  in  the  course 
of  erection,  will  be,  it  is  said,  far  superior  to  any 
other  building  in  the  place,  and  not  inferior  to 
any  in  all  England.  It  is  constructed  so  as  to 
form  a  square  around  it.  The  first  Hoor  is  to  be 
occupied  as  shops  (stores),  and  the  upper  floor 
approached  from  the  north  and  south  side  by 
very  wide  flights  of  hewn  stone  steps,  is  intended 
for  a  Court  Room,  Offices,  Exchange  Room,  &c. 
The  principal  shops  will  front  on  Market  street, 
with   good   roomy  basements   to    underlet    for 

H* 


1% 


JOi 


O'tr  the  Athntic. 


various  business  purposes,  and  Free  Trade  Hall, 
where  such  men  as  Cohdcn,  Gibson,  Hright, 
Osborne,  and  others  of  the  great  champions  of 
the  corn  law  and  free  trade  have  frequently  held 
forth,  advocating  in  more  than  eloquent  language 
the  rights  of  the  working  man,  is  a  building  of 
no  mean  pretensions. 

Manchester  is  also  not  without  its  monuments. 
Very  fine  statues  of  the  Duke  of  Wellington  and 
Sir  Robert  Peel  occupy  prominent  positions  in 
front  oi  the  Infirmary,  and  one  of  Dr.  Dalton, 
and  of  James  Watt,  the  celebrated  engineer, 
occupying  each  a  pedestal,  forming  the  entrance 
to  the  Institution,  and  there  is  a  very  fine  statue 
of  thfc  late  Prince  Consort,  in  Italian  mairblc, 
under  a  cant)py  on  Albert  Square. 

The  city  is  also  blessed  with  some  very  fine 
public  parks,  of  which  it  has  three,  viz. :  Peel's 
Park,  comprising  forty  acres,  in  which  there  is  a 
very  extensive  Museum  of  Antiquities  and  F"ine 
Arts,  and  an  extensive  Library,  both  of  which 
arc  always  open  to  the  public  gratis,  and  within 
the  grounds  are  five  statues,  viz. :  of  the  Queen, 
Prince  Albert,  Sir  R.  Peel,  Richard  Cobden  and 
Mr.  Brotherton,  late  M.  P.  for  Salford.  The 
otiier  Parks  are  called  the  Queen's  Purk,  and 
Phillip's  Park,  both  of  which  are  extensive,  but 
have  nothing  to  recommend  them  to  the  eye  of 
the  stranger,  aside  from  their  shady  groves  and 
quiet  retreats,  which  are  so  very  much  courted 


(ill  i 


■MimpjkJi^iiwi4^#isi^^ 


ai3r?TtY<  ^ 


0\r  the  AtlitiitU. 


»03 


Frade  Hall, 
in,  Hright, 
ampions  of  ([^ 
iiently  held 
It  language 
building  f»f 

nonuments. 
lington  and 
)ositions  in 
^r.  Dalton, 
1  engineer, 
10  entrance 
fine  statue 
an   mairble, 

L'  very  fine 
k'iz. :  Peel's 
1  there  is  a 
s  and  Fine 
'i  of  which 
and  within 
the  Queen, 
obden  and 
ford.  The 
Piirk,  and 
;ensive,  but 
the  eye  of 
E^roves  and 
ch  courted 


«)n  the  Sabbath  and  lidlidays  by  the  sons  f»f  toil 
I       resident  in  and  around  the  <  itv. 

Among  tiic  hotels,  of  which  there  arc  several 
very  fine  ones,  one  deserves  special  mention.  I 
allude  to  the  "  Trevalyaii,"  conducted  on  tlur 
Temperance  plan,  and  is  decidedly  one  the  finest, 
as  also  one  of  the  most  convenient  and  elegant 
furnished  house  in  the  United  Kingdom.  It  is 
admirably  conducted,  and  is  preciselv  what  it  is 
represented  to  be,  "  a  first-class  house,"  combining 
elegance,  and  ccmifort  at  mo'ici ate  charges.  The 
"  Waterloo"  is  the  only  house  vhicli  caters  to  the 
taste  of  Americans  generally,  and  is  provided 
with  an  elegant  room  for  their  reception,  adorned 
with  American  engravings  of  various  subjects, 
but  is  rather  salty  in  its  charges. 

Before  leaving  we  were  afforded  an  o]iportu- 
nity  of  visiting  the  new  Cotton  Factory  of  the 
Messrs.  Tocjtal,  Broadhurst.  l-ce  &  Co.,  which  is 
one  of  the  finest,  most  modern  and  complete  in 
the  pl.acc.  On  entering  the  first  lloor  we  could 
not  hear  ourselves  speak  with  the  noise  of  the 
machinery  at  work,  and  the  humming  din  of 
scores  of  looms,  busy  at  work  under  the  niiuiage- 
ment  principally  of  females,  weiving  various 
patterns  and  qualities  of  cotton,  worsted,  and 
silk  fabrics  combined.  Wo  were  politely  shewn 
through  this  extensive  establishment,  from  bot- 
tom to  top,  which  gave  us  some  idea  of  the  vari- 
ous stages  through  which  the  raAv  ni.iterial  had 


'1 1 


I 


iiii  i 


204 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


a  fit  state  to  pass   into   the 


to  •2;o  ere  it  was  in 
weaver's  room.* 

It  is  astonishing  to  see  the  great  number  of 
foreigners  from  almost  every  clime,  who  traverse 
the  streets  of  busy  Manchester ;  among  whom  arc 
the ,  Ttirk,  Arab,  Greek,  and  the  Mahomedan  from 
the  far  off  Indies,  dressed  in  the  peculiar  costume 
1  if  thei  r  country.  As  also  the  Frenchman,  Spaniard, 
Germanand.  American,  attired  a  la  anglaise,  all  buy- 
ers, or  rather  resident  agents,  for  the  purchase  of 
goods  for  the  various  houses  they  represent  in 
their  far-distant  homes.  And  now  let  us  leave 
busy  and  smoky  Manchester,  and  in  my  next  I 
shall  give  an  account  of  our  trip  to  the  far-famed 
Windermere  lakes,  and  thence  on  by  way  of  Carlisle 
into  bonnie  Scotland. 


■  *The  proprietors  of  the  Manchester  Cotton  Mills  are 
very  jealous  of  strangers  visiting  their  factories,  but  wc 
gained  admission  without  any  trouble  through  the  influence 
of  a  friend,  who  said  we  were  simply  desirous  of  satisfying 
our  curiosity  by  seeing  the  looms  at  work. 


1 


3  pass   into   t!ic 

;rcat  number  of 
ne,  who  traverse 
niong  whom  arc 
Wahomedan  from 
jeculiar  costume 
ic/imatiy  Spaniard, 
anglaise,  all  buy- 
the  purchase  of 
ley  represent  in 
ow  let  us  leave 
d  in  my  next  I 
to  the  far-famed 
r  way  of  Carlisle 


r  Cotton  Mills  are 
r  factories,  but  we 
irough  the  influence 
isirous  of  satisfying 
rk. 


1 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


20.; 


LETTER  XXI. 

ENGLAND,    CONTINUED. 

On  the  road  once  more,  propelled  by  the  iron 
horse  at  the  usual  speed,  we  soon  left  Manchester 
far  behind,  passing  through  Bolton  and  Preston, 
with  their  numerous  cotton  factories,  coal  and 
iron  works.  On  through  Lancaster,  and  in  a  few 
hours  the  train  arrived  in  Oxenholme  Junction, 
where  I  had  the  extreme  pleasure  of  meeting  an 
old  friend  from  Pittston,  then  on  a  visit  to  his 
aged  father  residing  at  Sedburgh,  after  an  absence 
in  America  of  30  years  (more  or  less).  To  meet 
so  many  thousand  miles  from  our  home  was  very 
pleasant,  and  right  glad  were  we  to  see  each 
other,  but  the  pleasure  was  somewhat  marred  by 
him  announcing  the  death  of  an  old  friend 
of  ours  at  Wilkesbarre,  Pa.  Although  unwell, 
he  put  himself  to  some  trouble  and  expense  in 
coming  several  miles  to  meet  us,  for  I  had  been  in 
correspondence  with  him  prior  to  leaving  London. 
But  unfortunately  we  had  but  little  time  to  spend 
in  each  other's  company,  for  as  soon  as  the  bag- 
gage could  be  transferred  from  one  train  to  the 


206 


O'er  the  Atlantie. 


other,  tlien  in  waiting,  we  liad  to  bid  each  other  a 
hasty  adieu,*  take  our  scats  again,  and  proceed  on 
our  journey-by  Kendall,  and  in  a  short  time  we 
arrived  at 

WiNDERMKRF..— On  our  arrival  here,  situated  in 
the  Lmmediate  neighborhood  of  the  liir-famed 
Windermere  Lakes,  we  soon  were  cosily  seated 
in  the  coffee-room  of  a  very  comfortable  hotel, 
named  after  the  place,  where  from  the  windows 
could  be  obtained  an  excellent  view  of  the  lakes 
in  the  distance. 

After  a  stay  of  a  couple  of  days  at  this  very 
fashionable  place  of  resort,  boating  on  the  lake, 
&c.,  a  portion  of  which  time  the  rain  fell  in  tor- 
rents, we  concluded  to  leave  and  proceed  on  our 
journey  north,  being  perfectly  satisfied  that  there 
are  lakes  and  scenery  elsewhere  as  fine,  if  not 
superior,  in  many  respects,  to  that  Windermere 
can  boast  of,  and  to  view  which  none  of  us  need 
leave  the  American  shores.  For  what  a  great 
contrast  there  is  between  the  lakes  and  rivers  of 
Britain  and  those  of  America  !  The  former  are 
but  ponds  and  ditches  when  compared  to  the 
vast  lakes  and  rivers  of  the  latter ;  and  as  to 
scenery,  truthfully,  I  have  seen  none,  as  yet,  to 
equal  our   own  beautiful  Valley  of  the  Wyoming^ 

•This  was  the  only  personal  acquaintance  from  his  home 
that  the  writer  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  during  his  tour, 
although  there  were  several  in  various  parts  of  Europe  at 
the  time,  and  he,  notwithstanding  feeling  very  unwell  at  the 
time,  traveled  several  miles  under  un/avotabU  circumstances 
to  obtain  an  interview.    May  his  shadow  never  grow  less. 


i 


} 


and  that  o 
other  plac 
are  not  se 
visited,  bu 
an  admir 
and  /retty 
variety  of 
ful  roads,  1 
be  gratifie 

We  cor 
Windermt 
train  once 
started,  m; 
while  thei 
an  excelle 
ruin, stanc 
the  railwa 
cultivated 
nificent  st 
erected  at 
my  accoui 

On  oui 
pleased  t( 
from  New 
Mrs.  Stev( 
Penrith,  b 
tion,  for  t 
to  the  trai 
a  stentori 
"  Take  yo 
refreshmei 


O'er   the  Atlantic. 


207 


ich  other  ft 
proceed  on 
ft  time  we 

situated  in 
far-famed 
sily  seated 
ible  hotel, 
!  windows 
'  the  lakes 

this  very 
a  the  lake, 
ell  in  tor- 
ed  on  our 
that  there 
le,  if  not 
indermere 
)f  us  need 
It  a  great 
I  rivers  of 
ormer  are 
ed  to  the 
ind  as  to 
as  yet,  to 

Wyoming^ 

>m  his  home 
ing  his  tour^ 
>f  Europe  at 
inwell  at  the 
ircumstances 
row  less. 


) 


and  that  of  the  Hudson  River,  Starucca  Valley,  and 
other  places,  during  autumn  especially.  Such 
are  not  seen  in  any  other  country  that  I  have 
visited,  but  if  the  American  is  an  antiquarian  (»r 
an  admirer  of  green  fields,  well-trimmed  hedges, 
and  pretty  gardens,  adorned  with  almost  every 
variety  of  flowers,  tastefully  laid  out,  and  beauti- 
ful roads,  let  him  visit  Britain,  and  his  tastes  will 
be  gratified  to  the  fullest  extent. 

We  continued  our  journey  northward  from 
Windermere,  re-passing  Kendall,  and  taking  the 
train  once  more  from  Oxenholme  Junction,  we 
started,  making  the  first  stoppage  at  Penrith,  and 
while  there  obtained  from  our  carriage  window 
an  excellent  view  of  the  old  castle,  now  a  perfect 
ruin,  standing  in  the  immediate  neighborhood  of 
the  railway  station.  On  we  went  through  a  well- 
cultivated  country,  until  we  arrived  in  the  mag- 
nificent station  of  Carlysle,  something  like  that 
erected  at  Chester,  and  of.  which  I  spoke  in 
my  account  of  North  Wales. 

On  our  arrival  here  we  were  very  much 
pleased  to  meet  a  lady  companion  du  voyage 
from  New  York  to  Ireland,  in  the  person  of  a 
Mrs.  Stevens,  who  was  staying  witii  a  relation  at 
Penrith,  but  our  conversation  was  of  short  dura- 
tion, for  the  baggage  being  quickly  transferred 
to  the  train  on  the  Waverly  route  (N.  B.  R.  R.), 
a  stentorian  voice  proclaimed  the  customary, 
"  Take  your  seats,  please,"  when  suddenly  the 
refreshment    rooms    were    emptied    of   hungry 


208 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


travelers,  with  their  lunch  in  hand,  quickly 
followed  by  the  banging  of  doors,  and  the  "  Show 
your  tickets,  please,"  then  the  guard's  usual  shrill 
whistle  for  the  immense  train  of  carriages  to 
move  on  to  cross  "  the  border."  Puff— puff— puff 
— ending  in  one  continual  puffing — and  ere  we 
had  finished  partaking  of  our  luncheon,  pur- 
chased 1  'irriedly  at  Carlysle,  we  were  fairly  in 
the  "  lane  o'  cakes" 

Scot  LA  a). — Rapidly  traversing  the  banks  of 
the  nobl ;  Esk,  which,  I  informed  myself, 
abounded  with  very  fine  trout.  On  we  went 
through  Castleton,  with  its  "hermitage  water," 
St.  Boswell,  which  put  me  in  mind  of  New- 
burgh  Abbey,  still  on  through  Newstead,  and 
in  a  little  while  we  were  in  Melrose,  where 
we  saw  the  royal  standard  still  floating  over  the 
hotel  which,  but  a  few  days  prior  to  our  arrival. 
Her  Majesty,  the  Queen,  liad  honored  with  her 
presence  on  her  visit  to  Melrose  Abbey,  when 
en  route  to  her  highland  home  at  Balmoral. 

We  saw  the  splendid  old  abbey  wherein  rests 
the  once  lion  heart  of  "the  Bruce."  Grand  old 
ruin !  Honored  thou  art  in  having  such  a  relin 
resting  within  thy  ivy-clad  walls !  Let  it  continue 
to  shelter  under  thy  wings,  even  when  ages  shall 
have  made  thy  crumbling  walls  a  mass  of  rub- 
bish, never  to  be  forgotten  untiltime  ceases  to  be 
no  more. 

Melrose  Abbey  is  a  similar  ruin  to  that  of 
"  Tintern  Abbey,"  of  which  I  gave  an  account 


€ 


> 


when  in  So 
rated.  It  m 
restored  in 
stroyed  the 
building  is 
years  in  coi 
cian  Monks 
the  Last  Mi 
the  followin 

"  The  moc 
Through 

By  fol 
Thou  \v 
Twixi  p 

In  ma 
Then  fn 
And  cha 

"On  man 
foliage  are 
and  several 
are  yet  as  ei 
and  the  mi 
must  have 
the  dust  of 
forefathers  ( 
itants  of  th 
day,  mingle 
ruin." 

Leaving  ] 
of  the  "lo 
eloquent  pc 
ous  by  the 


1^-^ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


209 


,  quickly 
lie  "  Show 
siial  shrill 
riages  to 
puff— puff 
id  ere  we 
L'on,  pur- 
:  fairly  in 

banks  of 

myself, 

we  went 

e  water," 

of  New- 

tead,  and 

ie,   where 

over  the 

r  arrival, 

with  her 

)ey,  when 

rai. 

rein  rests 
rand  old 
:h  a  relic 
continue 
iges  shall 
s  of  rub- 
ises  to  be 

I  that   of 
account 


% 


i 


when  in  South  Wales,  but  more  profusely  deco- 
rated. It  was  founded  in  1156  by  David  I,  and 
restored  in  1326  by  the  Bruce.  Edward  .II  de- 
stroyed the  original  building,  and  the  present 
building  is  that  restored,  which  occupied  200 
years  in  completion.  It  belonged  to  the  Cister- 
cian Monks.  Sir  Walter  Scott,  in  his  "  Lay  of 
the  Last  Minstrel,"  alludes  to  the  east  window  in 
the  following  lines  : 

"  The  moon  on  the  east  ariel  slione 
Through  slender  shafts  of  shapely  stone, 

By  foliaged  tracery  combined  ; 
Thou  wouldst  thought  some  fairy's  hand 
Twixi  poplars  straight  the  osier  wand 

In  many  a'freakish  knot  had  twined, 
Tiien  framed  a  spell  when  the  work  was  done, 
And  changed  the  willow  wreaths  to  stone." 

"  On  many  parts  of  the  ruins  fruits,  flowers  and 
foliage  are  carved  with  the  most  artistic  skill, 
and  several  of  the  pillars  which  support  the  roof 
are  yet  as  entire  as  when  William  of  Deloraine 
and  the  monk  visited  the  wizard's  grave."  It 
must  have  been  unrivalled  in  its  day,  "  and  now 
the  dust  of  the  departed  monks  and  the  rude 
forefathers  of  the  hamlet,  with  that  of  the  inhab- 
itants of  the  village  of  Melrose  of  the  present 
day,  mingle  together  in  the  graveyard  of  the  old 
ruin." 

Leaving  Melrose,  we  steamed  along  the  banks 
of  the  "  lovely  Tweed,  soil  hallowed  by  the 
eloquent  poetry  of  Burns,  and  rendered  glori- 
ous by  the  wonderful  genius  of  Scott,  a   land 


t. 


ito 


O'er  the  Atlantic 


in!:i 


where  prose  and  fiction,  fact  and  sentiment,  arc 
so  indissolubly  linked  together  that  it  becomes 
almost  an  impossibility  to  separate  one  from  the 
other."— On  we  went,  leaving  Abbottsford,  the 
once  princely  residence  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  to 
our  left,  sorry  we  could  not  spare  the  time  to 
visit  it,  and  as  we  went  further  along  we  obtained 
excellent  views  of  Bortljwick  and  Creichton  Cas- 
tles, the  former  a  fine  old  baronial  tower  of  the 
14th  century.    'Twas  there  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots, 
passed,    I    may   say,   with    Bothwell,   her    hitter 
honeymoon,   till    hunted   down   by   her  nobles 
when  she  Hed  their  vengeance  dressed  in  male 
attire,  but  to  no  purpose,  for  she  was  afterwards 
taken   prisoner,  and    taken    back    to    Edinboro. 
where  she  was  insulted  in  the  streets,  and  after- 
wards  removed  to  and  confined   in    Lochleven 
Castle,  whercfrom    she  effected  lier  escape  and 
fled  into  England,  and  threw  herself  upon  the 
protection  of  Elizabeth,  then  Queen  of  England, 
who  protected  her  by  causing  the  headsman  lo 
deprive  her  of  her  head.     Creichton  Castle  was 
founded  by  Sir  William  Creichton,  Chancellor 
of  Scotland,  who  was  the  guardian  of  James  II. 
The  ill-fated  Mary  gave  various  grand  entertain- 
ments there,  and  magnificent  as  it  was  once,  it  is 
now  a  desolate,  forlorn  looking  old  ruin.     We 
passed    through    Gallashiels,  and    occasionally 
passed   large   factories  wherein    the  celebrated 
Scotch  tweed    is    manufactured,  and   steaming 
along   at    a  fast   rate,   passed    Stow,   Fountain 


Mall,  Heriot, 
Dalahousie,  1 
wards  came  ii 
ing  in  Edinbi 
in  the  luxuri 
Hotel,"  condi 
Chester,  on  thi 
were  prompt 
cared  for,  by 
hostess. 

After  supp( 
street,  where 
memory  of  S 
structure  I  I 
walked  leisut 
dows,  where! 
very  beautifn 
justly  celebra 

I  must  now 
my  next  will 
our  visit  to  tl 
Scotland.     A 


iment,  arc 
t  becomes 
;  from  the 
:sford,  the 
r  Scott,  to 
e  time  to 
3  obtained 
;hton  Cas- 
ter of  the 
1  of  Scots^ 
her    bitter 
;r  nobles 
t  in  male 
fterwards 
Edinboro. 
ind  after- 
.ochleven 
cape  and 
upon  the 
England, 
isman  to 
astle  was 
liancellor 
fames  II. 
:ntertain- 
mce,  it  is 
lin.     We 
asionally 
jlebrated 
steaming 
fountain 


O'er  the  Atlanttc. 


all 


Mall,  Heriot,  Falahill,  Tynehead,  Gorebridge, 
Dalahousie,  Eskbank,  Dalkeith,  and  soon  after- 
wards came  in  sight  of  the  Firth  of  Forth,  arriv- 
ing in  Edinburgh  at  6  p.  m.,  and  were  soon  seated 
in  the  luxurious -coffee-room  of  the  "  Cockburn 
Hotel,"  conducted 'like  the  "Trcvelyan"  at  Man- 
chester, on  the  temperance  plan,  where  our.wants 
were  promptly  supplied,  and  our  comfort  duly 
cared  for,  by  the  very  accommodating  host  and 
hostess. 

After  supper  we  strolled  up  and  down  Princess 
street,  where  is  erected  the  elegant  monument  in 
memory  of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  the  most  beautiful 
structure  I  have  ever  seen ;  and  viewed  as  we 
walked  leisurely  along  the  numerous  shop-win- 
dows, wherein  was  exhibited  in  profusion  the 
very  beautiful  jewelry  which  Edinburgh  is  so 
justly  celebrated  for  its  manufacture. 

I  must  now  bring  this  letter  to  a  close,  and  in 
my  next  will  give  my  readers  a  continuation  of 
our  visit  to  this  very  beautiful  city,  and  capital  of 
Scotland.     Au  ra'oir  ' 


) 


!•' 


*(' 


313 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


LETTER  XXII. 

SCOTLAND,  CONTINUKI). 

Edinburgh  — \Vp  fr^nr.^    ;» 

i-«^i.n.     tye  lound    it   very   pleasant   to 


iinger  i„  and  around  thir;e;;Ct£r:^\,;: 

most  de„^Htful  of  .//the  cities  we  visited! ail'dt; 

va>  ot  giving  my  readers  an  idea  of  what  is  to 

beseent,.ere.Iwillco.nn.encewithitsAi;;;^^^ 

Edinburgh  Castle  is  situated  on  a  high  rock 

oi  "^e  c!ty,  and  was  the  scene  of  many  a  fierce  and  r"^^^y  j'''^^'^ 
deadly  struggle  between  the  English  troops  and  F °'''^'  ^^'«  ^''^ 
lose  of  the  7>;r/.,./..,  as  also,  of  some  of  the  (^«-««   I^'   ^ 

nals  of  the  ill-fated  Mary.     We  were  shown  her  ' 

'ttle  apartment,  when  a  prisoner  there  (6  y.  a 
n.)  and  looked  down  with\a  shudderThe  steep 
l"tL'r^^\  ^'l^    ?"^--'   ^--    whic^^lh^ 


hamber,  in  w 

I  iz.,  that  of  th 
md  an  old  a 
rown  and  le 
)iick.  The  rei 
)cr  is  much  la 
ler  captivity,  ! 
occasion  to  vi 
ward  career, 
proceeded  to 
Kings  and  Qu 

II  strong  iron  \ 
iroof  vault,  ei 
he  "  Old  Pala 

Icrimson  covei 
he  Crown  of 

;o  it  by  Jame: 
)y  Pope  Julii 

made  for  Jan 
:ostly  jewels 


collar  of  the  < 
Queen  Elizabi 
badg«  of  the  1 
and  secretly  < 


rocks  beneath  the  window,  from  which  she  /'-»"**  ^^^'^^"^y  ' 
lowered  in  a  basket  her  babe,  James  VI,  to  be  iDenmark,  anc 
conveyed  by  her  adherents  to  Stirling  Castle  ^^^^^^^  ^-  TJ 
where  it  was  baptised  in  hpr  fi,,.^.;..  r„:fK     ^     '  . 


.  .  •'  —  """vii,nia  lu  otiriine:  Uastle 
where  It  was  baptised  in  her  favorite  faith.-Two 
portraits  only  adorn  the  walls  of  this  little  prison 


•  James  VI  was 

prisoner. 


-"iiip 


i 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


»I3 


pleasant  to 
'ul  city,  the 
ted,  and  by 
what  is  to 
its  Ancient 

high  rock, 
dern  parts 
I  fierce  and 
roops  and 
ne  of  the 
shown  her 
!re,  (6x4 
the  steep 
'hich    she 
VI,  to  be 
ig  Castle, 
th.— Two 
tie  prison 


hamber,  in  which  James  \'I  first  saw  tlie  liglit,* 
liz.,  that  of  the  Queen  and  her  consort  Darnley, 
ind  an  old  arm  chair  of  the  period,  with  the 
•rown  and  letters  M.  R.  rudely  carved  on  the 
ack.  The  reception  room  adjoining  tiie  ciiain- 
)er  is  much  larger.  It  was  in  this  room,  during 
ler  captivity,  she  gave  audience  to  those  who  had 
)ccasion  to  visit  her  in  her  solitude  and  down- 
ward career.  Leaving  this  part  of  the  castle,  we 
proceeded  to  view  the  F-galia  of  Scotland's 
Kings  and  Queens,  now  kept  and  guarded  witiiin 
strong  iron  railing  or  cage,  placed  in  a  bomb- 
roof  vault,  erected  within  that  part  known  as 
•the  "Old  Palace."  The  whole  are  placed  on  a 
crimson  covered  stand  or  table,  and  consist  of 
he  Crown  of  Bruce's  time,  with  additions  made 
o  it  by  James  V,  the  sword  of  st.ite  presented 
y  Pope  Julius  II,  to  James  IV,  and  a  sceptre 
|made  for  James  V.  There  are  also  rare  and 
ostly  jewels  bequeathed  by  the  late  Cardinal 
York,  who  M-as  the  last  of  the  Stewart  race,  to 
George  IV,  whicli  consist  of  the  St.  George 
collar  of  the  Order  of  the  Garter,  presented  bv 
Queen  Elizabeth  of  England,  to  James  VI,  the 
badg«  of  the  Thistle,  ornamented  with  diamonds, 

iand  secretly  containing  a  portrait  of  Anne  of 
penmark,  and  lastly  the  coronation  ring  of 
Charles  I.     This  costly  finger  ornament  is   set 


*  James  VI  was  born  there  while  his  royal  mother  was  a 

prisoner. 


li 


it  .11 


')•: ,  i; 


I'M 


ai4 


OW  the  Athintic. 


with   bca'.tiful    rubies,   and    the    ornament,   St. 
George  and  the  Dragon,  attached  to  the  collar  of 
the  Order  of  the  Garter,  is  on  one  side  thickly 
set   with  diamonds   of  the  purest   water.      The 
whole  have  a  most  brilliant  appearance  and  are 
in  a  good  state  of  preservation,  notwithstanding 
the  many  long  years  they  were  locked  up  from 
mortal   view.     Apropos  of  this  circumstance,   a 
liiw  lines  may  not  be  uninteresting  to  some  of 
my  readers,  whereby  they   may  be  made  better 
acquainted  with  the  past  history  of  "Scotland's 
Kegalia,"  than  I   was,  prior  to  my  visiting  the 
country  ;  but  before  doing  so,  I  wish  to  allude  to 
the  royal  robes,  which,  it  is  said,  "  were  of  purple 
velvet,   lined  with  ermine,  with  a  kirtle  of  the 
same  materials  and  trimming,  combining  grace 
with  elegance,  which,  with  the  crown,  was  worn 
by  the  King  upon  solemn  occasions,  but  the  lat- 
ter on  other  occasions  was  placed  before  -Mm  on 
a  cushion,  and   when    laws  were  passed    n   the 
Scottish    Parliament    it   was  presented   by  the 
Chancellor  to   the   King,  who  ratified  them  by  V 
touching  it  with  the  sceptre,  in  token  of  royal 
assent.     This  ceremony,  after  the  accession   of 
James  to  the  English  crown,  was  performed  by 
a    Lord    High  Commissioner,  invested   for  that 
purpose  with  the  delegated  state  of  a  viceroy." 
"  During  the  troubles  of   Queen   Marj^'s  time  V 
there  was  scandalous  dilapidation   made    upon 
the  crown  jewels  and  other  treasure  in  Scoth;nd 
belonging  to  the  sovereign.     The  Regalia,  how- 


, 


ever,  escaped 
at  this  time 
Castle,  when 
Bishop  of  < 
appears  fron- 
the  Bishop  ( 
and  sceptre, 
head,   with 
circiimstanct 

A  Her  the 
whi':h  follo' 
dxnj^tr  to 
emblems,  thr 
measures  foi 
from  a  foreij 
detail  the  ci 
of  the  Kega! 
to  say  that 
England  the 
from  one  pla 
the  most  ted 

On  March 
from  public 
chest,  whici 
secured  by  t 
of  the  castle 
windows  we 
and  the  entri 
oak  and  thi 
great  strengi 
room  were  a 


8.   ^. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


2'S 


lament,  St. 
he  collar  of 
lide  thickly 
ater.  The 
ice  and  are 
ithstandlng 
:d  up  from 
m  stance,  a 
to  some  of 
lade  better 
'  Scotland's 
isiting  the 

0  allude  to 
!  of  purple 
rtle  of  the 
ling  grace  I 
,  was  worn 
)ut  the  lat- 
ivv.  "'m  on 
>ed  n  the 
id   by  the 

1  them  by  \ 
1  of  royal 
session   of 
formed  bv 
I   for  that 

viceroy." 
ir)''s  time 
ide   upon 

Scotland 
alia,  how- 


over,  escaped  the  general  plunder.  They  appear 
at  this  time  to  have  been  preserved  in  Sterling 
Castle,  where  James  VI  was  crowned  by  Adam, 
Bishop  of  Orkney,  July  29th,  1567,  when,,  as 
appears  from  the  records  of  the  Privy  Council, 
the  Bishop  delivered  into  his  hands  the  sword 
and  sceptre,  and  put  the  crown  royal  upon  his 
head,  with  all  due  reverence,  ceremonies  and 
circumstances  used  and  accustomed." 

AHer  the  coronation  of  Charles  II  the  events 
whi'^h  followed  were  fraught  with  so  much 
dxnfjtr  to  the  existence  of  royalty  and  its 
emblems,  that  it  became  necessary  to  take  prompt 
measures  for  the  preservation  of  the  Regalia 
from  a  foreign  enemy  ;  but  as  I  cannot  give  in 
detail  the  circumstances  attending  the  removal 
of  the  Kegalia  from  place  to  place,  it  must  suffice 
to  say  that  from  16^ i  until  the  union  with 
England  the  Regalia  were  removed  frequently 
from  one  place  to  anotiier,  and  sometimes  under 
the  most  tedious  and  difficult  circumstances. 

On  March  26th,  1707,  they  were  again  secluded 
from  public  view  by  being  deposited  in  the  great 
chest,  which  was  their  usual  receptacle,  and 
secured  by  three  strong  locks,  in  the  crown  room 
of  the  castle  of  Edinburgh.  The  chimneys  and 
windows  were  well  secured  by  massive  iron  bars, 
and  the  entrance  protected  by  two  doors,  one  of 
oak  and  the  other  of  iron  bars,  with  locks  of 
great  strength  ;  the  keys  of  the  chest  and  of  the 
room  were  afterwards  deposited  somewhere,  but 


2l6 


O'n-  the  AllantU. 


never    muvcml.*     l).,„l)ts   seen,    t„  |,ave  been 
entertained  hy  the  Scn.li   people   shortly   after 
this  of   the  actuni  whereabouts  of  the  Rej^^iiia 
and  the  Jarnbite  party  availed  themselves  of  the- 
nrc-mnstances   to    circlate    a    report    that   the 
hnghsh  government   had    secretiv  (auscd  these 
royal  en.blems  l..  be  transported  to  London,  and 
a  eroun  bein.ir  exhibited  in  the  Tower  of  London 
as  that  of  .Sc(,tland\s  kings   led  to   connrm  the 
leport  so  industriously  .ircuiated.     Thus  n.attcrv 
stood  for  upwards  of  a  centurv,  the  people  still 
in  doubt   of   the   existence   of  Scotland's    roval 
emblems,  when    in    .8,7.   the   "Prince   Resent, 
considering  that  all  pt.litical    reasons  for  with- 
drawing n-om  the  people  of  Scotland  the  sight  of 
the  ancient   symbols  of  her  independence  had 
long  ceased  to  exist,  was  pleased  to  give  direc 
tions  for   removing   the  mystery,  which  had  s„ 
long  hung   upon  the   existence  of  the  Scottish 
Regalia." 

A  warrant  was  accordingly  issued  and  handed 
to  the  officers  of  State  in  Scotland,  directing 
them  to  open  the  crown  room  and  chest  and 
report  the  state  in  which  the  Regalia  should  be 
found. 

The  crown  room  was  accordingly  entered,  and 
the  hd  of  the  great  chest  was  forced  open,  when 
to  the  great  joy  c.f  all  present,  lying  at  the  bot- 

*  Secluding  the  crown  jewels  from  public  view,  was  done 
.0  cause  the  loyal  and  patriotic  Scots  .0  banish  from  ,h"r 
memory  their  once  independent  government. 


torn  of  the  t 
Regalia,  in  i 
standing  the 
royal  11  ag  \ 
castle,  whicl 
a  numerous 
impatient  t(i 
search.  Th 
result  to  th( 
Kegalia  was 
to  the  fjffice 
great  seal,  v 
able  prccaut 
be  exhibited 
the  public  v 
venerable  m 

Afterward 
<-astle,  "  Qu 
ancient  buil 
16  1-2  feet  b 
was  in  forme 
all  .Scotlanc 
staves  and  h 
a  modern  ca 
On  tne  carr 
but  there  is 
Scotland  or 
ter. 

Leaving  t 

by  troops, 

Palace,  situ? 
I 


ilii.Bii:...-;,xv 


O'n-  t/ir  Alhvitu, 


J17 


ia\t'  bct-ri 
rtly   atUr 

Regal  iii. 
es  of  thi- 

that  the 
<C{1  these 
idon,  and 

London 
ifirni  tlie 
■>  matters 
oplc  still 
Is    royal 

Kcgcnt. 
or  with- 
'■  sight  of 
nee  had 
e  direc- 

had  so 
Scottish 

handed 
i  reeling 
Jst  and 
on  Id  be 

ed,  and 
1,  when 
he  bot- 

vas  done 
om  iheir 


i 


torn  of  tlic  old  chest  was  the  long  lost  Scottish 
Regalia,  in  a  good  state  ol  preservation,  notwith- 
standing their  having  laid  there  no  ivw/m.  The 
royal  flag  was  immediately  hoisted  upon  the 
castle,  which  was  greeted  by  the  loud  shouts  ot 
a  numerous  cnnvd  assembled  outside  the  walh. 
impatient  to  learn  the  result  f)f  the  interesting 
search.  The  officers  having  reported  the  happy 
result  to  the  Prince  Regent,  the  custody  of  the 
Regalia  was  on  the  8th  of  July,  i8i8,  committed 
to  the  officers  of  State,  by  a  warrant  under  the 
great  seal,  with  instructions,  after  making  suit- 
able precautions  for  their  safety,  that  they  might 
be  exhibited  to  the  public,  and  in  one  year  later 
the  public  were  gratified  with  a  sight  of  those 
venerable  memorials. 

Afterwards  we  visited,  before  leaving  the 
<astle,  "  Queen  Margaret's  Chapel,"  the  most 
ancient  building  in  Edinburgh,  measuring  only 
16  1-2  feet  by  10  1-2  feet  within  the  nave,  and  I 
w.is  informed  that  it  was  the  smallest  chapel  in 
all  Scotland.  An  immense  cannon  formed  .it 
staves  and  hoops  of  iron  welded  together,  adorns 
a  modern  carriage  near  by,  called  "  Mons  Meg." 
On  tiie  carriage  is  a  description  of  its  histi  rv, 
but  there  is  a  doubt  as  to  whether  it  was  forg<  i  ni 
Scotland  or  in  Flander.s— most  probably  tl>  lat- 
ter. 

Leaving  this  ancient  fortress,  still  garrisoned 
by  troops,  we  wended  our  way  to  Holyrood 
Palace,  situate  at  the  foot  of  a  lofty  hill  called 
I 


ij 


9l8 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


"Arthur's  Seat."     This  building  is  constructed 
similar  in   form   to  Hampton  Court,  and  dates 
back  from  the  days  of  Queen  Mary.     We  were 
soon   wandering,   i.   e.,    I  was  in  deep  thought, 
through  its  ancient  chambers,  entering  first  the 
picture  gallery,  a  long  room,  the  walls  of  which 
were  hung  with  portraits  in  sombre  frames. of  a 
hundred  kings  of  Scotland,  from  Ferguson  the 
First  to  the  end  of  the  Stewart  dynasty,  being 
copies  of  originals  and  painted  by  De  Witt   in 
the  i6th  century.     A  striking  peculiarity  in  the 
features  of  most  of  those  monarchs  is  the  length 
of  the  nose,  which  is  unusually  long,  especially 
among  those  of  the  earlier  date,  which  date  back 
to  330  years  B.  C,  when  Fergus  was  king.     The 
Parliament  for  some  time  was  held  in  this  room. 
We  were  next  shown  into  Lord  Darnley's  room 
and  the  audience  chamber,  the  walls  of  which  are 
hung   with   ancient   tapestry,   and    some  dozen 
paintings  of  various  monarchs.     There  are  seve- 
ral other  rooms  of  more  or  less  note  hung  with 
tapestry,  the  subjects  of  which  are  dim  with  age, 
the  most  interesting  of  which  are  Queen  Mary's 
reception  room,  supper  room  and  bed  room.      In 
one  of  those  is  to  be  seen  the  bedstead  and  other 
furniture  of  Charles   I,   which    he    used   when 
residing  in  the  palace,  also  some  embroidered 
chairs  of  the  same  date.     In  the  reception  room 
Mary  and  the  great   reformer  Knox  oftentimes 
met  face  to  face,  and  discussed  topics  with  refer- 
ence to  her  religious  faith,  the  result  of  which 


proved 
per  roo 
mortal 
in  the 
stabbinj 
relievec 
her  bed 
bearing 
reigns 
with  th 
used  by 
the  apa 
small  p 
his  infa 
ment  tc 
In  m; 
of  the  ( 
Palace, 
in  the  n 


•The  I 
Queen,  ai 
her  creed 


I. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


219 


is  constructed 
irt,  and  dates 
ry.  We  were 
deep  thought, 
jring  first  the 
rails  of  which 
e  frames. of  a 
Ferguson  the 
y nasty,  being 
De  Witt  in 
liarity  in  the 
i  is  the  length 
ng,  especially 
lich  date  back 
IS  king.     The 

in  this  room, 
irnley's  room 
of  which  are 

some  dozen 
lere  are  seve- 
te  hung  with 
lim  with  age, 
)ueen  Mary's 
d  room.  In 
ad  and  other 
used  when 
embroidered 
;eption  room 
X  oftentimes 
;s  with  refer- 
jlt  of  which 


proved  so  fatal  to  her  interests.*  It  was  the  sup- 
per room  wherein  Secretary  Rizzio  received  his 
mortal  wounds,  and  whence  he  was  dragged 
in  the  Queen's  presence  by  the  conspirators, 
stabbing  him  over  and  over  again,  until  death 
relieved  him  of  his  agonies.  The  ceiling  of 
her  bed  room  is  divided  into  panels,  each  i)anel 
bearing  the  arras  and  initials  of  Scottisii  sove- 
reigns in  the  centre,  and  is  partially  furnished 
with  the  bedstead,  bedding  and  decayed  hangings, 
used  by  the  unfortunate  Queen  when  occupying 
the  apartment.  It  was  from  this  room  tlirough  a 
small  private  door  that  the  upstart,  Darnley,  and 
his  infamous  associates  went  into  the  royal  apart- 
ment to  murder  Rizzio. 

In  my  next  I  will  give  my  readers  an  account 
of  the  Old  Abbey  or  Chapel  Royal  adjoining  the 
Palace,  and  the  remainder  of  the  sights  we  saw 
in  the  modern  Athens. 


*The  Reformer  was  the  source  of  much  anoyance  to  the 
Queen,  and  his  persistent  efforts  to  induce  her  to  change 
her  creed,  made  her  the  more  firm  in  her  belief 


220 


0*er  the  Atlantic. 


the  extei 
we  saw  t' 
nnnssum; 
Ch.arles  ] 
form  : 


LETTER  XXIII. 

SCOTLAND,    CONTINUKD. 

After  seeing  all  that  was  of  interest  within  the 
walls  of  Holy  rood  Palace,  we  wended  our  way 
to  survey  the  ruins  of  all  that  is  left  of  the  old 
abbey  or  chapel  royal,  adjoining  the  palace, 
which  was  founded  by  King  David.  The  mon- 
astery dates  back  to  the  twelfth  century.  Edward 
II  done  mucli  damage  to  it,  and  Richard  II  set 
fire  to  it  in  1385,  when  after  undergoing  repairs 
it  suffered  much  in  1547,  and  at  the  outbreak  of 
the  reformation  it  was  made  a  complete  ruin. 

Within  its  ancient  walls  many  of  the  Scotch 
monarchs  were  crowned  and  married,  and  in  the 
eastern  extremity,  under  the  large  window, 
kneeled  Mary,  Queen  of  Scots,  when  she  gave 
her  hand  to  the  simpleton,  Darnley,  and  near 
the  spot,  to  the  right,  is  tlie  old  vault,  wherein  it 
is  said,  rested  at  ouc  time,  the  remains  of  King 
David  II,  as  also  that  of  other  monarchs  of 
Scotland;  but  alas!  the  ravages  of  war  and 
time,  have  left  no  record  of  the  facts.  Leaving 
the  interior  for  a  while,  we  went  outside  to  view 


Sevcra 
erected  t 
count  Be 
and  tomb 
the  inscri 
legible,  c 
and  on  c 
inscri  ptic 

( 

But  the 
that  can  I 
there  are 
who,  or  M 
withstand 
many  of  1 
ancestors 


within  the 

1  our  way 
of  the  old 
lie  palace, 

The  mon- 
.  Edward 
lard  II  set 
■ig  repairs 
utbreak  of 

2  ruin. 

he  Scotch 

and  in  the 

window, 

she  gave 

and  near 

wherein  it 

s  of  King 

narchs  of 

war  and 

Leaving 

le  to  view 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


221 


tlie  exterior,  and  looking  up  over  tlic  doorway 
we  saw  the  following  inscription  on  a  plain  and 
unassuming  stone,  imbedded  in  the  wall  by 
Charles  I,  and  I  give  it  to  my  readers  in  ]irecise 
form  : 

"  lie  sluill  build  ane  house 

For  nij"  name,  and  I  will 

Statdish  the  Throne 

Of  his  Kingdom 

For  ever." 

"  Hasilicam  hancc 
Return  Carolus  Rex 
Optimus  Instauravit 
Anno  Doni." 

Several  line  monuments,  especially  those 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Lord  Roay  and  -Vis- 
count Belhaven  (the  latter  a  very  beautiful  one), 
and  tombstones  are  to  be  seen  within  the  ruin, 
the  inscriptions  upon  several  of  which  are  quite 
legible,  one  showing  the  distinct  date  of  1455, 
and  on  one  is  the  following  very  characteristic 
inscription: 

"  Heir  lyes  ane  honorable  woman, 
Callit  Margaret  Erskin,  Lady  Alercus, 

And  Dame  XVII,  July,  159." 

But  the  history  of  a  great  many  of  even  those 
that  can  be  deciphered,  is  buried  with  them,  for 
there  are  no  authentic  records  to  be  found  of 
who,  or  what  they  were  in  their  time ;  and  not- 
withstanding the  ruinous  state  of  the  abbey, 
many  of  the  present  nobility  of  Scotland,  whose 
ancestors  sleep  within  those  old  walls,  still  keep 


t. 


332 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


u 


adding  to  the  number,  as  the  members  of  the 
various  ffcnerations  depart  this  life,  for  they 
cherish  a  love  and  respect  for  their  ancient  burial 
place. 

After  taking  a  last  lingering  look  at  this  old 
ruin,  we   took    our   leave,  entered  the  carriage, 
whicli    liad    been    in   waiting,   and  were   driven 
around  the  '•  Queen's  drive,"  wiiich  afforded  us 
beeautiful  views  of  the   Firth   of  Forth,  I.eith 
Harbor,   and    f)f    Craig-millar  Castle,   wherein 
have   resided   James  IV,  V,   and   (^)ueen  Mary. 
Passing  around  tiie  mountain   called  "  Arthur's 
Seat."  which  towered  high  above  us,  crouching 
111   lion  form,  for   it    resembles   verv    much   that 
majestic  beast  of   the  forest,    we  again    entered 
tlie  city  by  another  route,  and  proceeded  to  visit 
other  places,  among  which  I  may  name  the  Royal 
Institution  and  the  Antiquarian  Museum,  which 
contained   a   host   of    national    relics,    many   of 
which  were  associated  with  the  life  and  times  of 
John  Knox  and  others  of  his  time,  the  National 
(Gallery  devoted  to  the  exhibition  of  pictures,  quite 
:i  fine  collection,  and  Callow  Hill,  from  where  we 
obtained  a  beautiful  view  of  the  city,  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  Arthurs  Seat  and  tire  Castle,  and  I  will  say 
that  it  was  the  finest  view  I  have  ever  witnessed. 
On  Callow  Hill,  resemblingthe  ruinsof  Athens, 
is  the  unfinished  National  Monument,  which  has 
in  its  incomplete  state,  cost  ^12,000,  and  owes  its 
present  classic  appearance,  to  a  want  of  further 
funds  for   its  completion.      In    the    immediate 


ncighborhoo 
magnificent 
building,  cor 
monument,  v 
his  metpory. 

We  also  sj 
fifteenth  cent 
when  he  diec 
and  his  favo 
Union  cellar 
we  could  not 
longer,  tempu 
scenes,  but  it 
the  further  | 
gay  Princes; 
monument,  i 
say  (Q«ntle 
beautiful  wa 
times  loiterei 
and  politely 
respectfully 
Abbottsford. 

Yes,  I  left 
for  I  liked  it 
there,  but  it 
hark !  it  is  t 
please,"  the  1 
hurry  to  our 
locked,  and  i 
the  delightfi 
very  appropt 


d*cr  the  Atlantic. 


223 


s  of  the 
'or  they 
Ubiirial 

this  old 
carriage, 
driven 
rded  us 
1,  I.eith 
IV  herein 
I  Mary. 
Wthur's 
filching 
ch  that 
entered 
to  visit 
t;  Royal 
,  wiiich 

lilH}-    of 

imes  <jf 
ational 
!S,  quite 
lere  we 
-'irth  of 
vill  say 
nessed. 
Vthens, 
ich  has 
wes  its 
further 
lediate 


\ 


neighborhood  is  the  Edinburgh  high  school,  a 
magnificent  building,  the  Prison,  a  castellated 
building,  constructed  of  hewn  stone,  and  Burns' 
monument,  which  contains  relics  connected  wiih 
his  memory. 

We  also  saw  John  Knox's  house,  built  in  the 
fifteenth  century,  and  occupied  by  him  until  1572, 
when  he  died  ;  it  contains  implements  of  torture, 
and  his  favorite  chair;  Regent  Murray's  house, 
Union  cellar,  and  the  old  Parliament  house  ;  but 
we  could  not  remain  in  beautiful  Edinburgh  any 
longer,  tempus  fugit,  so  we  had  to  leave  for  other 
scenes,  but  it  was  with  regret,  that  I  had  to  forego 
the  further  pleasure  of  strolling  up  and  down 
gay  Princess  street,  with  its  magnificent  Scott 
monument,  its  less  pretending  one  )f  Allan  Ram- 
say (Q«ntle  Shepherd),  elegant  buildings  and 
beautiful  walks,  where  Sir  Walter  Scott  often- 
times loitered,  chatting  with  one,  then  the  other, 
and  politely  saluting  each  passer-by,  as  they 
respectfully  recognized  the  soul-stirring  poet  of 
Abbottsford. 

Yes,  I  left  Edinburgh  with  a  pang  of  regret, 
for  I  liked  it  very  much,  and  would  gladly  reside 
there,  but  it  could  not  be. — We  must  onward; 
hark !  it  is  the  old  request ;  "  take  your  seats, 
please,"  the  train  ir  on  the  eve  of  starting,  we 
hurry  to  our  seats,  the  carriage  door  is  closed  and 
locked,  and  in  a  minute  we  are  steaming  out  of 
the  delightful  city  of  the  "  Modern  Athens"  (a 
very  appropriate  name)  and  in  a  very  short  time 


334 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


it  is  far  behind,  and  the  train  stops  at  some  place, 
the  name  of  which  did  not  catch  our  ears,  as  the 
guards  called  it  out,  so  I  inquired  of  an  elderly 
gentleman  who  sat   opposite  me,  who  politely 
answered   Linlithgmv.     Yes   reader,   we   were   in 
the  place  where  tiie  Stuarts  figured  so  much  in 
their  day,   and   on   our  right    was  the  ancient 
Palace,  wherein  the   beautiful    Mary   Queen   of 
Scots  first   saw  the   light ;    but   while  we  were 
intently  gazing  upon  tiie  ancient  structure,  the 
train  moved  on,  and  I  had  to  lean  out  the  win- 
dow to  gain  one  parting  look  at  its  ancient  walls. 
xVway  we   went   past   Falkirk,  where  the  great 
Wallace  sustained  defeat  by  Edward  I  on  over 
a  portion  of  the  field   of  Bannockburn,  which 
promptly  called  to   my  mind   Burns'  immortal 
song,  "  Scots  vvha  hae  wi  Wallace  bled,",^d  ere 
I  had  quit  thinking  of  the  terrible  conflicf  which 
once    deluged    the    field    with    blood,  we  had 
arrived  in  Stirling,  of  which  I  will  write  in  my 
next. 


i 


SriRLlNG.- 

time  to  see  ' 
made  our  wa 
old  castle,  wl 
that  of  Edin 
occupies,  am 
chambers  of 
which  the 
"  Douglas  ro 
assassins,  wh 
adjoining,  Ik 
Chamber,"  a 
arched  gatev 
found  in  the 
those  rooms, 
ere  she  will  ^ 
of  how  and 
victim  to  th' 
no  doubt  vat 

*  This  womar 
and  should  be 
manners. 


O'er  the  Atlanik. 


aas 


lie  place, 
s,  as  the 
I  elderly 
politely 
were   in 
much  in 
ancient 
ueen   of 
v^e  were 
ure,  the 
he  win- 
It  walls. 
le  great 
)n  over 
,  which 
1  mortal 
^d  ere 
\  which 
ve  had 
;  in  my 


> 


LETTER  XXIV. 

SCOTLAND,     CONTINUED. 

Stirling. — We  remained  there  but  suflicient 
time  to  see  the  most  interesting  parts  of  it,  so 
made  our  way  immediately  on  our  arrival  for  the 
old  castle,  which  we  found  resembled  very  mucli 
that  of  Edinburgh,  especially  in  the  position  it 
occupies,  and  like  it,  has  within  its  walls  its 
chambers  of  horrors,  for  there  is  the  room  in 
which  the  brave  Douglas  (now  called  the 
"  Douglas  room,")  lost  his  life  by  the  hands  of 
assassins,  who  secreted  themselves  in  the  chamber 
adjoining,  hence  wiiy  it  is  named  the  "  Secret 
Chamber,"  and  underneath  the  window  over  the 
arched  gateway  his  lifeless  bod}',  it  is  said,  was 
found  in  the  morning.  A  lady  is  in  charge  of  * 
those  rooms,  who  expects  a  fee  from  all  visitors 
ere  she  will  volunteer  to  give  a  minute  account 
of  how  and  why  the  brave  warrior  became  a 
victim  to  the  assassin's  knife,  Avhich  account  is 
no  doubt  vague  and  very  incorrect.* 

*  This  woman  was  most  exacting,  unpleasant  and  impolite, 
and  should   be  removed,  to  give  room  for  one  of  better  • 
manners. 


336 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


One  of  the  soldiers  of  the  garrison,  off  duty, 
as   we   emerged   from   tiie   Douglas  room,  very 
politely  proflered  his  services  to  show  us  around 
the  castle,   which   I   gladly    accepted,   and  our 
guide  quickly  led   the  way  to  the  battlements, 
from   where   he   pointed   out   various   places  of 
interest,  commencing  by  drawing  my  attention 
to  the  Wallace  monument,  now  in  the  course  of 
erection  on  the  Abbey  Craig,  to  complete  which 
Scotchmen  and  the  descendants  of  Scotchmen  in 
the   United  States  and  the  Canadas  have  con- 
tributed, and  are  still  contributing  large  sums  of 
money ;  but  the  structure,  magnificent  and  stu- 
IJendous  as  it  is,  deserves  a  better  location  than 
tliat  it  is  erected  on.     Stirling,  or  the  centre  of 
the  ever  memorable  field  of  Bannockburn  would 
be,  in  my  opinion,  a  far  more  desirable  location. 
My  attention  was  next  called  to  the  battle  field  of 
Stirling,  and  then  to  that  of  Bannockburn,  both 
"1  right  opposite  directions,  but  within  a  few 
miles  of  each  other.     Airthrey  Castle,  the  seat  of 
Lord   Abercrombie,  and    that    of  Sir   William 
Stirling  Maxwell,  of  Kerr,  Kenneth  Abbey,  in 
which   lies  interred   the  remains  of  James  III, 
and  over  which  has  been  lately  erected  at  the 
expense  of  her  present  majesty,  the  Queen,  an 
elegant  tomb  in  memory  of  that  long"  departed 
monarch.     I  was  also  shown   the    Tournament 
ground  beneath  the  walls,  and  the  stone  wheron 
Mary  Queen  of  Scots  often   sat  to  watch  the 
national  games  of  the  period,  by  looking  through 


an  aperture 
those  engage 
tance  and  vi: 
able  little  to 
of  much  resc 
ticating  am 
Indeed,  from 
around  for  n 
extensive  an 
nessed. 

Leaving  tl 
the  palm  of  ' 
of  Her  Ma 
received  a  m 
for  my  gene 
coats  on  oui 
the  castle,  ar 
an  elderly 
guide,  and 
capacity,  wl 
"  Silence  gii 
doubt,  for  hi 
tion  to  an  ol 
halted,  and  t 
broad  Scotc 

"This  ol< 
Regent,  inte 
after  it  was  c 
tion  the  site 
haps  by  the 
of  a  proud 


I. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


227 


off  duty, 
3m,  very 
s  around 
and  our 
lements, 
)laces  of 
Utention 
:ourse  of 
e  which 
hmen  in 
.ve  con- 
sums  of 
ind  stu- 
ion  than 
centre  of 
n  would 
ocation. 
;  field  of 
rn,  both 
1  a  few 
e  seat  of 
kVilliam 
»bey,  in 
nes  III, 
1  at  the 
een,  an 
eparted 
nament 
wheron 
tch  the 
hrough 


an  aperture  in  the  wall,  without  being  seen  by 
those  engaged  in  the  games.  Away  in  the  dis- 
tance and  visible  to  the  naked  eye  is  the  fashion- 
able little  town  of  tlie  bridge  of  Allan,  a  place 
of  much  resort  by  the  wealthy,  desirous  of  rus- 
ticating among  mountains  and  green  fields. 
Indeed,  from  the  battlements  the  whole  country 
around  for  many  miles  can  be  seen,  and  a  more 
extensive  and  delightful  view  is  but  seldom  wit- 
nessed. 

Leaving  the  polite  and  obliging  man  at  arms, 
the  palm  of  whose  hand  I  gently  pressed  with  one 
of  Her  Majesty's  silver  coin,  and  in  return 
received  a  most  grateful  smile  and  a  polite  salute 
for  my  generosity.  We  passed  the  guard  of  red 
coats  on  our  way  to  the  outside  of  the  walls  of 
the  castle,  and  ere  vvc  had  proceeded  very  far  met 
an  elderly  man,  who  introduced  himself  as 
guide,  and  offered  me  his  services  in  that 
capacity,  which  I  did  not  refuse  nor  accept. 
"  Silence  gives  consent,"  thought  Mr.  Guide,  no 
doubt,  for  he  commenced  by  calling  my  atten- 
tion to  an  old  building  in  front  of  which  we  had 
halted,  and  the  history  of  which  he  gave  to  me  in 
broad  Scotch,  viz : 

"This  old  building,  sir,  was  erected  by  tiie 
Regent,  intending  itfor  a  palace  for  James  VI.,  but 
after  it  was  commenced  and  in  process  of  construc- 
tion the  site  was  objected  to  by  the  public,  and  per- 
haps by  the  King  himself,  and  the  Regent  being 
of  a  proud  and  independent  spirit,  suddenly  sus- 


Ilfi 


228 


O'lr  the  Atlantic. 


pendcd  operations  and   left  it  in  its  unfinished 
state.'     The  following  characteristic  inscription 
over  the  doorway  speaks  for  itself: 
The  moir  I  sjand  on  open  hicht 
My  faults  moir  subject  ar  to  sitght, 
I  pray  all  luckcrs  on  this  loging 
With  gentle  p'  to  gif  thair  juging. 

The  cathedral,  or  grey  friar  church  of  Francis- 
can monks,  in  tlic  rear  of  the  Regent's  old  build- 
■ng,   was    erected    by  James   IV,    ,494,  and   is 
really  an   old  fashioned   building.     It  was  then 
undergoing  repairs,  so  we  did  not  see  the  interior 
but  went  through  a  great  portion  of  the  burial 
ground  adjoining,  in  which  are  some  ven-  line 
monuments,  several  of  which  have  been  ejected  • 
at  the  sole  expense  of  a  Mr.  William  Drummond. 
a  wealthy  Scotch  gentleman,   resident    in   the 
neighborhood,  to  the  memory  of  Scotch  martyrs 

One  of^rhn?'"""'  '"'^  '^''^"''^  '^^"''«^-^  ^'^h  it. 

^tendon       u"""""'"'"''  '"'■"^'"^  "^y  P^"''^"'''^'- 
attention.      It    was    enclosed    within    a   glass 

pavilion   to    protect    it    from    the    weathef   in 

memory  of   Margaret   Wilson    and    her    si;ter 

Agnes,  comprised  of  three  life  si^e  figures  reore 

senting  the  two  sisters  and  their  guardian  angel' 

he  latter  o.  the  finest  Italian  mafble,  sculptu^:!! 

m  Rome.     I  his  group  is  exceedingly  beautiful 

and  cannot  but  challenge  the  admfrJtion  of  all 

who  see  then.     A  high  pyramid  is  also  erected 

there    by   the   same  gentleman  in   memory  of 

martyrs  of  the  xyth  century,  and  there  are'also 


very  many  fi 
of  John  Kno 
whose  name! 
acquainted  w 
As  I  wane 
the  oldest  in* 
of  which  I  f 
the  follow  in] 
erected  in  m 
1809,  and  la 
same  name, 
Stirlingshire, 

Our, 
Som( 
Othe 
And, 
The, 
And, 
Larg 
That 
He, 

Has, 
From  "La 
looking  the 
castle  walls, 
the  country, 
when  he  too! 
tower  can  be 
fired  on  his 
castle  during 
Our  guide 
man,  directe 


».   ^ 


nfinished 
scription 


Francis- 
Id  build- 
,  and   is 
ras  then 
interior, 
le  burial 
•erv  line 
I  erected " 
mmond, 
in   the 
martyrs 
with  it. 
rticular 
ii    glass 
:her,  in 
"    sister 
s  repre- 
I  angel, 
Iptured 
autiful, 
I  of  all 
erected 
ory  of 
re  also 


0\r  the  Atlantic 


aap 


very  many  fine  statues,  among  which  are  those 
of  John  Knox,  Henderson,  Melville  and  others, 
whose  names  are  as  household  words  to  those 
acquainted  with  the  history  of  Scotland. 

As  I  wandered  over  the  ground  in  search  of 
the  oldest  inscription  among  the  old  tombstones 
of  which  I  found  none  prior  to  1523,  I  noticed 
the  following  lines  on  a  tombstone,  formerly 
erected  in  memory  of  Alexander  E.  Mifflin  in 
1809,  and  later  to  the  memory  of  one  of  the 
same  name,  who  had  been  chief  constable  of 
Stirlingshire,  who  died  in  1867  : 

Our,  life,  is,  but,  a,  winter,  day, 

Some,  only,  breakfast,  and,  away, 

Others,  to,  Dinner,  stay. 

And,  are,  well,  fed, 

The,  oldest,  man,  but,  sups, 

And,  goes,  to,  bed,   , 

Large,  is,  his,  debt, 

That,  lingers,  out,  the,  day, 

He,  that,  goes,  soonest, 

Has,  the,  least,  to,  pay. 
From  "Ladies'  Hill,"  an  elevated  spot  over- 
looking the  Tournament  ground  beneath  the 
castle  walls,  can  be  obtained  a  beautiful  view  of 
the  country.  General  Monek  held  this  position 
when  he  took  the  castle,  and  on  the  old  church 
tower  can  be  plainly  seen  the  marks  of  the  shot 
fired  on  his  forces  from  the  battlements  of  the 
castle  during  the  siege. 

Our  guide,  who  I  found  was  a  well  informed 
man,  directed  our  steps  from   the    old    burial 


^v> 


O'er  thf  AthiHtii. 


gruund  to  Arjiylc  Lodge,  erected  by  Alexander, 
first  harl  of  Stirling,  ,652,  and  t(.ld  me  it  was 
occupied  by  the  Duke  of  Argyle  during  the  first 
rebellion.     Within  its  walls  Charles  I  was  enter- 
tamed  when   on  a  visit  to  Stirling.      We   wore 
afterwards     shown     Lord    Darnley's    residence, 
where  James    VI  was  nursed;    Earl   Uuthwells 
house,  the  murderer  of  Darnley,  who  afterwards 
aspired  to  the  hand  <,f  his  royal  widow;  and  the 
old  m.nt,  wherein  the  first  coin,  called  a  bawbee, 
was  co.ned,  which  had  on  one  side  an  in.pression 
of  the  head  o.  Queen  Mary  when  a  child,  hence 
bawbee,  meaning  little  or  small,  perhaps  of  the 
value  of  a  farthing  or  an  American  half  cent 
-Iroceeding    on    our    way    to    the    hotel    our 
attention   was   drawn  to  an   old   building    still 
.nhab.ted,  wherein  at  one  time  resided  a  certain 
Knight   ol    the   Scissors,  whose   sign   of  native 
stone  still  remains  imbedded  in  the  ;vall  over  the 
door,    with    the    following    inscription    rudely 
inscribed  thereon.     I  give  an  exact  copy  so  far 
as  form  is  concerned  : 

RoUKRT    Sl'ITTAI., 

Tailor  [scissors]  to  King, 

James  4th  Anno 

1530 

R.  S. 

We  left  this  ancient  and  pretty  town  by  the 
North  British  Railway  for  Glasgow,  by  way  of 
Balloch,  on  Lochlomand.  For  unfortunately  ive 
were  unable  to  proceed  to  the  Trossachs,  owing 


to  the  heavy 
which  we  wei 
a  circumstan 
is  said,  is  gra 
On  our  arr 
proceeded  or 
with  its  old 
Clyde,  then  n 
muddy  but  I 
great  city  (i 
ceedcd, wear 
on  Argyle  s 
everv  comfoi 


O'er  thi'  AtliintU. 


«3» 


klexandcr, 
lie  it  was 
g  the  first 
vas  ciitcr- 
\ye   Horc 
residence, 
lothwell's 
ftcrwards 
;  and  tlie 
a  bawbee, 
iipression 
Id,  lience 
[)s  of  the 
alf  cent, 
ote!    our 
ing    still 
a  certain 
f  native 
over  the 
rudely 
)>'  so  far 


ti)   the  heavy  rains  which    fell  at  lis        and 

which  we  were  informed  made  it  vei  >iti  isant, 
a  circumstance  I  was  sorry  for,  as  the  scenery  it 
is  said,  is  grand  in  the  extreme. 

On  our  arrival  at  Balloch  we  changed  cars  and 
proceeded  on  our  journey  through  Dumbarton 
with  its  old  castle  on  the  rocks  high  above  the 
Clyde,  then  along  the  banks  of  that  shallow  and 
muddy  but  busy  river,  until  we  arrived  in  the 
great  city  of  Glasgow,  and  immediately  pro- 
ceeded, weary  and  tired,  to  the  "  Cobden  Hotel," 
on  Argyle  street,  which  we  found  replete  with 
everv  comfort  and  convenience. 


by  the 

way  of 

itelyvve 

,  owing 


232 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


.LETTER  XXV. 

SCOTLAND,    CONTINUED. 

Glasgow.-I  found  this  city  to  be  precisely  as 
Tr  'j?!^™^^'  ^  ^"^^ky,  busy  place,  as  much 
unlike  Edinburgh  as  day  is  to  night,  with  nothing 
of  much  interest  to  recommend  it  to  the  stranger 
and  tourist;  but  notwithstanding  I  mustgivemy 
readers  a  brief  account  of  some  of  its  public  and 
commercial  buildings,  and  what  we  saw  durintr 
our  stay.  " 

The   CATHEDRAi,.-This    large,  and   indeed    I 
may   say  fine    old    structure,   now  very    much 
restored,   was   dedicated,  it   is  supposed,  to   St 
Mungo  or  St.  Kentyn,  who  is  the  reputed  founded 
of  the  city.     In  560  he  established  the  bishopric 
of  Glasgow.      The  cathedral    was    erected    bv 
John  Achams,  Bishop  of  Glasgow,  in  1113,  some 
historians  say  during  the  reign  of  David  I.     It  is 
of  Gothic  architecture,  and  has  in  and  around  it 
tombstones  whose  inscriptions  date  back  to  A 
^.   1500    at    which    time    the  people,  Ave    ;  /e 
informed,  went   to   church  carrying  concealed 
weapons,  even   the  clergymen  went  armed  into 


the  pulpit 
to  protec 
ferocious, 
to  their  1 
strictly,  /' 
church  oi 
the  chur 
Scotland, 
only  con 
organ  noi 
choir  tol( 
those  wh( 

The  wii 
line,  beinj 
elaborate 
manufacti 
brated  in 
(in  memo 
gregation 
inscribed 
connectec 
donor,  co 
samT  patt 
the  taste  ; 
construct 
ments. 

TheN; 
hood  an< 
necropoli 
and  fifty 
erected  s 


I 


O'er   the  AtlanUc. 


333 


precisel)-  as 
ce,  as  much 
vith  nothing 
the  stranger 
lust  give  my 
s  public  and 

saw  during 

d  indeed  I 
ver}'  much 
>sed,  to  St. 
ted  founder 
le  bishopric 
erected    by 

H13,  some 
'id  I.  It  is 
i  around  it 
)ack  to  A. 
B,   Ave    ;./e 

concealed 
irmed  into 


the  pulpit,  which,  it  appears,  was  necessary,  so  as 
to  protect  themselves  from  the  lawless  and 
ferocious,  which  were  those  generally  opposed 
to  their  doctrine.  The  cathedral  is  conducted 
strictly,  i.  e.,  in  the  mode  of  worship,  as  the 
church  of  Scotland  (Presbyterian),  and  like  all 
the  churches  of  that  persuasion  throughout 
Scotland,  the  services  are  simple  and  plain,  with 
only  congregational  singing,  there  being  no 
organ  nor  any  musical  instrument  and  professed 
choir  tolerated,  to  cater  to  the  refined  taste  (jf 
those  who  advocate  professional  harmony. 

The  windows  of  the  cathedral  are  remarkably 
fine,  being  works  of  art  of  the  most  costly  and 
elaborate  kind,  in  stained  and  painted  glass, 
manufactured  at  Munich  and  otlier  places  cele- 
brated in  the  art,  and  are  gifts  to  the  church 
(in  memoriam)  from  various  members  of  the  con- 
gregation, whose  respective  names,  dates,  &c.,  are 
inscribed  thereon,  and  setting  forth  particulars 
connected  with  the  deceased  relatives  of  the 
donor,  consequently  the  windows  are  not  of  the 
samT  pattern  and  design,  but  vary  according  to 
the  taste  and  amount  of  money  expended  in  the 
construction  of  those  handsome  and  useful  monu- 
ments. 

The  Necropolis. — In  the  immediate  neighbor- 
hood and  to  the  rear  of  the  cathedral  is  the 
necropolis  or  cemetery,  elevated  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  river  Clyde,  in  which  are 
erected  some    very    fine    monuments,  and   the 


1  i 


I 


«34 


0\-r  the  Atlantic. 


%\ 


grounds  are  kept  in  the  highest  state  of  cleanli- 
ness, order  and  cultivation  ;  so  much  so,  that  it  is 
daily  the  resort  of  hundreds,  who  stroll  through 
.ts  romantic  walks,  admiring  the  elegant  and 
handsome  monuments  and  vaults  which  adorn 
the  place,  among  which  stand  conspicuous  those 
ni  memory  of  John  Knox,  Dr.  Black,  Dr.  Dick. 
McGev.n,   Maj.    Monteith    and    Alice   Dunlop 
Knox  s  monument  AVas  the  first  erected  on  the 
ground,    long    before    it    became    a    cemeterv, 
erected  there  because  of  its  high  elevation,  and 

kT,  '!.  ^^'  u^  "'''''   "magnificent  view  can   be 
obtained  of  the  surro-.  nding  country 

Within  the  city  is  a  fine  public  square  wherein 
are  some  very  fine  mon.unents.  among  which 
stands  ,n  the  centre  that  erected  to  the  memory 
of  Sir  Walter  Scott,  and  equestrian  statues  of 
the  ^ueen  and  the  Prince  consort. 

The  Glasgow  University  is  a  fine  old  building 
of  the   17th  century.      The   National   Bank   of 
Scotland    and    the    Royal    Exchange   are    fine 
modern  buildings.     In   front  of  the  latter  is  a 
very  fine  Wellington  monument  commemorative 
of  the  battle  of  Waterloo,  in  the  design  of  which 
the  artist  has  displayed  much  genius  and  good 
taste,  m  giving  life  like  representations  of  the 
soldier  in  civil  and  military  life,  graphically  por- 
raying  his  career  from  agricultural  pursuits  to 
the  battle  field.     As  a  monumental  work  of  art  I 
was  much   struck  with  its  beauty  and   natural 
appearance. 


Glasgow  ha 
I  liked  Arg3 
fine  large  hoi 
second  to  nor 
is  celebrated  a 
world  for  stei 
steamers  are  y 
be  the  finest 
now  doing  the 
sengers  betw 
various  ports 
such  steamers 
the  Russia  of 
Inman  and  oti 
designs  of  eel 
are  acknowle 
world  mastei 
adieu  to  Glas 
through  Paisl 
of  shawls  and 
whereon  is  ofl 
curling  bet  we 
Kilberney,  nc 
large  iron  ft 
the  celebrated 
"  Scotch  Pig,' 
the  distance,  t 
of  water,  and 
away  to  our  r 
in  Trova,  fror 
distance  to  ou 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


ni 


F  cleanli- 
that  it  is 

through 
:ant  and 
h  adorn 
lus  those 
)r.  Dick, 
Dunlop. 
I  on  the 
;nieterv, 
ion,  and 

can   be 

ivherein 
\  which 
nemory 
itues  of 

uilding 
ank   of 
'e    fine 
er  is  a 
orative 
which 
1  good 
of  the 
ly  por- 
uits  to 
f  art  I 
latural 


Glasgow  has  also  some  fine  streets,  of  which 
I  liked  Argyle  street  the  best,  and  several 
fine  large  hotels,  which  are,  I  was  informed,, 
second  to  none  in  the  United  Kingdom,  and  it 
is  celebrated  as  being  the  great  ^porium  of  the 
world  for  steamship  building.  Its  Clyde  built 
steamers  are  well  known  and  acknowledged  to 
be  the  finest  and  fastest  vessels  afloat,  and  arc 
now  doing  the  leading  trade  in  freight  and  pas- 
sengers between  the  United  States  and  the 
various  ports  of  Europe.  It  was  on  the  Clyde 
such  steamers  as  the  Scotia,  Persia,  Cuba,  Java  and 
the  Russia  of  the  Cunard  line,  and  others  of  the 
Inman  and  other  lines  were  built,  after  lines  and 
designs  of  celebrated  Scotch  shio  u  -Iders,  who 
are  acknowledged  to  be  all  ovei  <  vilized 

world    masters    of   their    professi  idding 

adieu  to  Glasgow,  we  took  rail  and  proceeded 
through  Paisley,  celebrated  for  its  manufacture 
of  shawls  and  spool  cotton,  on  by  Lochweinon, 
whereon  is  often  played  the  celebrated  games  of 
curling  between  the  north  and  south,  still  on  by 
Kilberney,  noticing  as  we  went  along  several 
large  iron  furnaces,  wherein  is  manufactured 
the  celebrated  iron  known  all  over  the  world  as 
"  Scotch  Pig,"  obtaining  a  view  of  Ardrossan  in 
the  distance,  the  Firth  of  Clyde,  a  broad  expanse 
of  water,  and  Isle  of  Arran  with  its  lofty  hills 
away  to  our  right,  on  we  went  until  we  arrived 
in  Trova,  from  where  we  saw  Kilmarnock  some 
distance  to  our  left,  and  soon  after  we  were  duly 


». 


336 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


It 


W : 


set  down  in  the  quaint  and  quiet  little  town  of 

info,^;::;'"^'''^^^^'^^'^^-^'--^^^^^^ 

"  Xe'er  a  town  surpasses 
For  honest  men  and  bonnic  lasses." 
As  we   entered  the  town,  the  first  sight  that 

he   Twa  Bngs  o'  Ayr,"  which  are  so  hallowed 
n     he  strains  of  Bt.rns,  whose  humorous  and 

ihe  Auld  Bng  was  built  during  the  reign  of 
;wor  r  "/■^^^^-r.Ss,  at  the  sole  expense  o 
two  maiden  ladies  named  Lowe,  who,  it  is  said 
devoted  the  whole  of  their  fortune  t^  the  puf: 
pose.  It  ,s  very  narrow  and  steep  at  both  ends 
and  was  intended  no  aouoi  for  a  foot  bridge  and 
for  beasts  of  burden.  As  we  went  alon/^I  was 
suddenly  brought   to  a  stand   still,  as   my  eyes 

jovial  looking  figures  painted  on  a  sign  board 

"  The  house  wherein  Tam  O'Shanter 
and  Souter  Johnny  held  their  meetings  " 
Of  course  I  could  not  but  stay  awhile  beneath 

nn.fr\'  '■°°^'  "^  '"  ^^^  ^«"'  ^"d  were  verv 
politely  shown  up  stairs  by  the  good  landlady , 
Mrs_  Glass,   who  cosily  seated  us  in  the  Tarn 

sin  Trih-h'  ^?T  J°'^""^  ^'^^'^^'  ^"d  were 
soon  imbibing  of  Scotch  dew  out  of  the  ever 

memorable  cup  (of  which  but  very  little  is  left) 


used  by  those  i 
they  met  in  tha 
based  upon  one 
t rived  to  link  t 
able  poetic  tah 

Tam  had 
Fast  by  a 
Wi  reami 
And  .It  hi 
His  ancic 

The  bard  set 
spirit  of  the  o 
Heeting  hours 
Barleycorn  pa; 

"  The  nicht 
And  ay  the 

Too  often  ii 
little  is  to  crea 
was  the  case  w 

Midnight  ca 
two  *'  cronies" 
Tam  to  stradc 
ceed  on  his  w; 
and  stormy  i 
says : 

As  ne' 

And  his  joi 
wend  his  way ! 
great  circle  s?. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


m 


3\vn  of 
h  Burns 


?Iit  that 
on  were 
lallovved 
)us   and 
>f  both, 
eign  of 
)ense  of 
is  said, 
!ie  pur- 
h  ends, 
Ige  and 
r  I  was 
y  eyes 
:h   two 
board 
Joking 


Jneath 
;  verv 
dlady, 
'  Tarn 
1  were 
■  ever 
5  left), 


used  by  those  worthy  and  congenial  spirits  when 
they  met  in  that  very  room  in  the  days  of  Burns, 
based  upon  one  of  which  meetings  the  poet  con- 
trived to  link  together  the  humorous  and  inimit- 
able poetic  tale  of  "Tam  O'Shanter,"  when 

"  Ae  market  night . 

Tam  had  got  planted  unco  right, 
Fast  by  an  ingle,  bicczing  finely 
Wi  reaming  Swats  that  drunk  divinely 
And  i»t  his  elbow,  Souter  Johnny  ; 
His  ancient,  trusty,  drouthie  crony." _ 

The  bard  seems  to  have  truly  entered  into  the 
spirit  of  the  occasion,  for  he  describes  how  the 
Heeting  hours  under  the  merry  influence  of  John 
Barleycorn  passed  swiftly  away,  viz  : 

"  The  nicht  drave  on  wi  sangs  and  clatter, 
And  ay  the  ale  was  growing  better." 

Too  often  is  it  the  case,  that  to  partake  of  a 
little  is  to  create  a  desire  for  more,  which  I  infer 
was  the  case  with  those  two  worthies. 

Midnight  came  at  last^  wlien  it  is  supposed  the 
two  •'  cronies"  prepared  to  separate  for  the  niglit, 
Tam  to  straddle  his  "  auld  grey  mare,"  to  pro- 
ceed on  his  way  home,  upon  a.  remarkable  dark 
and  stormy  night,  of  which  the  poet  further 
says : 

" Night  he  tak's  the  road  in. 

As  ne'er  poor  sinner  was  abroad  in." 

And  his  jovial  companion  the  shoemaker,  to 
wend  his  way  horr.eward  afoot,  after  the  fashion  of 
great  circle  sniiing. 


I. 


338 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


In  my  next,  after  giving  a  general  account  of 
Ayr  I  vyiU  conduct  my  readers  o'er  the  ground 
which  boozy    Tam    traveled    on  that  eventful 


sc 

Ayr. — 1  cloi 
Tam  O'Shante 
the  old  tavern 
a  promise  of 
further  accour 
took  them  ove 
hame  on  that  e'' 

This  beautil 
county  seat  of 
ate  surroundii 
life  and  times 
become  knowr 
"  Land  o'  Bun 
harbor  and  qu 
Clyde,  and  th 
occupied  by  a 
mand  the  enti 
barracks,  whic 
edifice,  vpere  e 
at  the  head  of 
up  Sandgate  s' 


». 


:ount  of 
ground 
eventful 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


239 


LETTER  XXVI. 

SCOTLAND,    CONTINUED. 

AvR. — I  closed  my  last  communication  with 
Tam  O'Slianter  and  Souter  Johnny's  carousal  at 
the  old  tavern  named  after  the  worthy  pair,  with 
a  promise  of  giving  my  readers  in  my  next  a 
further  account  of  this  pretty  little  town  ere  I 
took  them  over  the  road  on  which  Tam  ganged 
home  on  that  eventful  night. 

This  beautiful  and  picturesque  town  is  the 
county  seat  of  Ayrshire,  and  is,  with  its  immedi- 
ate surroundings,  so  much  associated  with  the 
life  and  times  of  the  farmer  poet,  that  it  has 
become  known  all  over  the  civilized  world  as  the 
"  Land  o'  Burns."  In  the  northern  suburb  is  the 
harbor  and  quay,  stretching  towards  the  Firth  of 
Clyde,  and  the  outer  position  of  the  latter  is 
occupied  by  a  strong  fort,  so  placed  as  to  com- 
mand the  entrance  to  the  harbor.  The  present 
barracks,  which  occupy  the  site  of  a  much  older 
edifice,  were  erected  by  Oliver  Cromwell,  when 
at  the  head  of  the  British  Government.  Passing 
up  Sandgate  street,  a  wide  and  rather  handsonie 


»J   ^- 


340 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


i  ) 


horougJ,farc,  we  were  soon  in  front  of  the  town 
bu.ld.ngs.  the  spire  of  which  is  lofty  and  hand- 

tlnT tho  Tm  •"*^"""«d  '^^'  it  is  .35  feet  high,  and 
hat   the  bu.ldmg  contains  an   assembly  room, 
together   with   several   others  used   for   various' 
purposes.     It  was  erected  about  forty  years  ago 
a     an   outlay  of  ^.0,000,  and  it  is  certainly^x 
building  which  the  goocf  people  of  the  town  and 
county   o     Ayr   should   be   pro-d  of      Nearly 
opposite  this  building  is  the  Ayrshire  Bank,  and 
a  little  further  on,  Wellington  Square.     On  this 
square  are   several    well  built    houses  and  the 
county  buildings,  wherein  are  the  court  house 
county  assembly  room,  the  office  for  the  use  of 
the   various  county  officials,  and  of  those  con 
nected   with   the  court.     Those   buildings  were" 
erected   in    ,83.,  at   a  cost  of  ^30.000    which 
auiount   was  defrayed  by  the   county,     iut  the 
most   interesting  feature   in   the  adornment   of 
this  square  is  that  of  a  statue  of  General  Neill 
who  was  killed   as  he  led  his  troops  into  the' 
citadel   of  Lucknow,  in    India,  on   the   2Sth   of 
September,  1857.  o       "^  • 

Leaving  Wellington  Square  and  turning  to 
the  right  we  had  a  view  of  an  old  antique  tower 
standing  m  a   Held  a  little  distance  off     It  is* 

whiVh  "'"  ""!;''""'  '''^""  ^^  ^*-  J°h"'«   Church, 
which   was  destroyed  by  Cromwell  during  the 

and   "T^-    ''  T  ^^""^'^  '"  *he  x.th  century, 

and    dedicated     to     St.     John    the    Baptist.- 

Soon  after  the  independence  of  Scotland  had 


been  achieved 
victory  at  Ba 
fix  the  succe 
which  purpos 
John's  Churc 
April,  1315,  O! 
adopted  the 
family,  the  w 
King  Robert  / 

Retracing  ( 
Sandgate  strc( 
Bay  of  Ayr, 
high  rock,  an< 
distance. 

The  Parish 
is  built  upon  I 
astery,  founde 
by  Oliver  Cro 
the  destructio 

The  Walla, 
structure,  risi 
feet.  The  lov 
some  store  or 
each  a  good  si 
occupied  as 
others  by  the 
ing  contains  s 
clock.  In  a  r 
lamented  and 
the  tower  wa 
.thousand  poui 

K 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


941 


the  town 
nd  liand- 
Iiigl),  and 
'ly  roon), 
■   various 
•ears  ago 
rtainly  a 
own  and 
Near])' 
fink,  and 
On  this 
and  the 
t  house, 
e  use  of 
Jse  con- 
gs  were 
,  which 
But  the 
nent   of 
1  Neill, 
uto  the 
!Sth   of 

ling  to 
tower, 
It  is 
hurch, 
ig  the 
ntury, 
tist.— 
d  had 


been  achieved,  on  the  »4tli  of  June,  13 14,  by  the 
victory  at  Bannockburn,  it  became  desirable  to 
fix  the  succession  to  the  Scottish  throne,  for 
which  purpose  a  Parliament  was  held  in  St. 
John's  Church  at  Ayr,  on  Sunday,  the  26th  of 
April,  1315,  on  which  day,  in  the  old  church,  was 
adopted  the  line  of  succession  in  the  Bruce 
family,  the  whole  assembly  swearing  fealty  to 
King  Robert  the  Bruce. 

Retracing  our  steps  from  this  point  towards 
Sandgate  street,  we  obtained  a  good  view  of  the 
Bay  of  Ayr,  with  Grennan  Castle,  built  on  a 
high  rock,  and  the  celebrated  Ailsa  Craig,  in  the 
distance. 

The  Parish  Church,  or  "  Auld  Kirk  o*  Ayr," 
is  built  upon  the  site  of  an  old  Dominican  mon- 
astery, founded  in  1230,  out  of  funds  contributed 
by  Oliver  Cromwell  by  way  of  compensation  for 
the  destruction  of  St.  John's  Church. 

The  Wallace  Tower  is  a  beautiful  gothic 
structure,  rising  to  the  height  of  one  hundred 
feet.  The  lower  part  is  converted  into  a  hand- 
some store  or  shop,  above  which  are  three  stories, 
each  a  good  sized  room  in  itself,  one  of  which  is 
occupied  as  a  mechanics'  institute,  and  the 
others  by  the  bellman  of  the  tower.  The  build- 
ing contains  a  fine  peal  of  bells  and  a  h&ndsome 
clock.  In  a  niche  on  the  front  is  a  statue  of  the 
lamented  and  patriotic  Wallace,  to  whose  memory 
the  tower  was  erected  at  a  cost  of  about  two 
.thousand  pounds. 


t.  ^ 


li  V 


W 


O'er  Ihc  Atlantic. 


I.caving  Ayr  vi-e  proceeded  some  distance  into 
the  country,  to  see  the  neighborhood  where 
Robert  Biirns  spent  a  great  portion  of  his 
lifetime,  and  I  was  soon  gladdened  witli  a  sight 
of  the  following,  written  on  a  sign  board  over 
the  doorway  of  a  thatched  cottage  (the  outer 
walls  of  which  were  thickly  white  washed  with 
wholesome  lime)': 

"  The  house  in  which  Burns  was  born." 
Soon  we  were  within  its  portals,  which  we 
found  densely  crowded  with  visitors.  Yes. 
reader,  in  that  humble  abode  on  the  roadside, 
was  ushered  into  the  world  on  the  25th  day  of 
January,  1759,  a  peasant  boy,  whose  fame  has 
gone  forth  throughout  the  civilized  world.  And 
in  a  recess,  wherein  stands  the  old  bedstead  in 
the  kitchen  of  the  cottage,  still  occupied  as  a 
sleeping  place,  as  he  himself  informs  us, 

"  A  bi.nst  o'  Janwar  win 

Hk'w  hansel  in  on  Robin." 

By  which  he  meant  to  convey  to  us  that  on  a 
certain  night  soon  after  iiis  birth  a  storm  blew 
down  the  outer  wall  of  the  frail  cottage,  owing 
to  which  himself  and  his  mother  had  to  be 
removed  to  another  part  of  the  house  while  the 
'damage  was  being  repaired. 

In  this  old  cottage,  it  is  said,  the  poet— indeed 
his  biographers  say  so— wrote  the  much  admired 
poem,  "  The  Cottar's  Saturday  Night,"  and  now 
its  great  and  growing  celebrity,  the  popularity 
of  the  dirtrict,  and  the   multiplicity  of  visitors. 


has  done  muc 
old  home.stea 
tion  of  tile  S 
father  sold  th 
and  family  to 
built  in  the 
only  improvi 
property,  but 
mod<ation  for 
by  the  propri 
as  an  Inn-kce 
of  visitors,  a 
graphs  of  th 
life,  who  hav 
world  to  vie 
bard  received 

In  the  kite! 
on  which  wa 
sumlng  crocl 
their  frugal  n 
old  grate  is  1 
the  cottage  w 

So  interest 
Burns  becom 
the  white  was 
votary  writtei 
doors,  door-f) 
have  scarcely 
have  been  ser 

Had  time  p 
a  few  days  i: 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


243 


ance  into 
)d  where 
1  of  his 
h  a  sight 
)ard  over 
:he  outer 
ihed  with 


rhich  we 
s.  Yes, 
roadside, 
ti  day  of 
ame  has 
d.  And 
1  stead  in 
led  as  a 


lat  on  a 
•m  blew 
J,  owing 
i  to  be 
'hile  the 

-indeed 
idmired 
nd  now 
Dularity 

I'isitors, 


has  done  much  to  keep  in  repair  and  improve  the 
old  homestead  for  the  owners.  "  The  Corpora- 
tion of  tiie  Shoemakers  of  Ayr,"  to  whom  Burn's 
father  sold  the  property  before  removing  himself 
and  family  to  Lochlee,  caused  a  large  hall  to  be 
built  in  the  rear  of  the  old  premises,  thus  not 
only  improving  and  rendering  more  valuable  the 
property,  but  doing  much  to  increase  the  accom- 
modation for  visitors.  A  register  book  is  kept 
by  the  proprietor  of  the  house,  who  is  licensed 
as  an  Inn-keeper,  wherin  are  registered  the  names 
of  visitors,  and  which  now  contains  the  auto- 
graphs of  thousands  of  almost  every  rank  in 
life,  who  have  journeyed  from  all  parts  of  the 
world  to  view  the  spot  wherein  the  immortal 
bard  received  his  first  inspiration. 

In  the  kitchen  still  remains  the  old  oak  dresser, 
on  which  was  once  placed  the  plain  and  unas- 
suming crockery  ware  used  by  the  family  for 
their  frugal  meals,  and  I  was  informed  that  the 
old  grate  is  the  same  in  every  respect  as  when 
the  cottage  was  occupied  by  the  family. 

So  interesting  has  the  birth  place  of  Robert 
Burns  become,  that  there  is  scarcely  a  spot  on 
the  white  washed  wall  but  has  the  name  of  some 
votary  written  thereon  in  pencil,  and  cupboards, 
doors,  door-frames,  tables,  chairs,  benches,  &c., 
have  scarcely  an  inch  of  smooth  surface  but  that 
have  been  served  likewise  with  the  knife. 

Had  time  permitted,  I  would  have  gladly  spent 
a  few  days  in  the  old  cottage,  for  I  love  such 


».  ».. 


344 


O'tr  the  Atlantit, 


places,  and  let  my  mind  wander  back  to  the 
days  when  the  immortal  bard  lived  and  moved 
within  its  prec  iiuts.  (;()od  old  days  were  those, 
wherein  lived  the  man  who  done  more  to  elevate 
man  in  the  estimation  of  himself  than  did  any 
other  of  the  great  poets  of  the  past  or  present 
day.  But  I  liad  to  take  not  one,  but  many  long 
lingering  looks  at  the  old  spot,  ere  I  could  tear 
myself  away. 

Near   to  the  cottage,  and  on  the  road  to  the 
Burns   monument,  is   AUoway  Kirk,  a   rootless 
old  building  described  by  the  poet  in  his  poem 
of    "Tarn    O'Shanter,"    as     "Alloways     Auld 
Haunted    Kirk,"   wherein,    he    informs   us,  the 
witches   held  their  high  carnival   on  the   night 
Tarn   rode   his   "  auld  grey   mare"   toward    his 
home  from  Ayr,  after  his  merry  making  with  his 
friend   Souter  Johnny.     Imagine  Tarn  jogging 
along  well  filled  with  home  brewed  ale,  with  his 
'*  Dutch  courage"  at  sticking  point,  wondering 
to  himself  what  kind   of  a  reception  he  would 
receive  from  his  better-half,  who  was  anxiously 
waiting  his  return,  and  what  reasonable  excuse 
he  could   make  for  his  prolonged   stay,   when 
passing  the  old  churcli    to  witness  therein  that 
which  the  poet  describes  in  the  following  lines  : 

" Sat  auld  Nick,  in  shape  o'  beast, 

A  towsie  tyke,  black,  grim  and  large. 
To  gie  them  music  was  his  charge  ; 
He  screw'd  the  pipes  and  gart  them  skirl. 
Till  roof^and  rafters  a'  did  dirl."— 


causing  Tarn, 
his  spurs  (if  h 
the  old  mare, 
the  speed  of  a 
to  her  heels. 

The  first  th 
entering  into 
was  a  head  st 
of  his  father,  ( 
ing  affectional 

"  O  ye  whose  c 

Draw  near  w 
Here  lie  the  Ic 

Tlie  lender  fi 
The  pitying  he; 

The  dauntlc! 
The  fiiiMul  of  r 

For  even  his 

The  interioi 
a  burial  plac 
several  persoi 
are  interred  ot 
rounded  with 

The  old  se: 
grave  of  Soul 
drouthie  cro: 
inscribed  on  a 
stone : 


'] 


To 


0*er  the  At!attttc. 


«45 


to  the 
I  moved 
e  tliose, 
elevate 
did  any 
present 
ny  long 
uld  tear 

to  the 
rootless 
is  poem 
Aiild 
us,  the 
!  night 
rd  his 
V'ith  his 

ith  his 
idering 

would 
tiously 
excuse 

when 
n  that 

lines : 


causing  Tarn,  perhaps,  to  plunge  the  rowels  of 
his  spurs  (if  he  had  any),  deep  into  the  flanks  of 
the  old  mare,  making  her  to  hound  forward  with 
the  speed  of  a  race  horse,  with  ilic  witclies  close 
to  her  heels. 

The  first  thing  that  attracted  my  attention  on 
entering  into  the  grave-yard  uS'  the  old  church, 
was  a  head  stone,  erected  by  Hums  in  memory 
of  his  father,  on  which  were  inscribed  the  follow- 
ing affectionate  lines,  composed  by  the  poet: 
"O  ye  whose  cheek  the  tear  of  piiy  stains. 

Draw  near  with  pious  reverence  and  lUlend  ; 
Here  lie  the  loving  husband's  dear  remains, 
The  tender  father  and  tlie  generous  friend, 
The  pitying  heart  that  felt  for  human  woe, 

The  dauntless  heart  that  feared  no  human  pride, 
The  fiiiMul  of  man,  to  vice  alone  a  foe, 

For  even  his  failings  leaned  to  virtue's  side," 
The  interior  of  the  old  church  is  now  used  as 
a  burial  place,  wherein  rest  tlie  remains  of 
several  persons  of  note,  and  in  the  grave-yard 
are  inten  cd  others  of  no  less  note,  in  vaults  sur- 
rounded with  iron  railing. 

The  old  sexton  in  attendance  showed  us  the 
grave  of  Souter  Johnny,  "  Tain's  ancient,  trusty, 
drouthie  crony."  The  following  lines  are 
inscribed  on  an  unassuming  head  stone  of  native 
stoije : 

"  Erected  by  John  Laughlan, 

To  the   memory  of  his   Father, 

and 

David  Laughlan, 

his  Grandfather, 

late  in  Cunning  Park. 


t/ 


246 


0\r  the  Atlantic. 


I  was  informed  that  the  bard's  remains  lie  at 
Dumfries,*  over  which  an  elegant  monument  is 
erected,  which  represents  him  in  tiie  capacity  of 
plowman.  His  mother's  remains  were  interred 
at  Bolton,  East  Lothian,  and  those  of  Tarn 
O'Shanter  lie  beneath  the  green  sod  of  Kirk 
Oswald.  The  following  lines  are  copied  from 
the  poem  by  Mr.  Roscoe,on  the  death  of  Scotia's 
Bard : 

Rear  high  thy  bleak,  majestic  hills, 

Thy  shelter'd  valleys  proudly  spread. 
And,  Scotia,  pour  thy  thousand  rills. 

And  wave  thy  heaths  with  blossoms  red  ; 
But  never  more  shall  poet  tread. 

Thy  airy  heights,  thy  woodland  reign, 
Since  he  the  sweetest  bard  is  dead 

That  ever  breathed  the  soothing  strain. 

I  must  now  bring  this  letter  to  a  close,  so  adieu 
for  the  present. 


Ity 


*  Robert  Burns,  who  was  then  in  the  British  Revenue 
service  as  Exciseman,  after  a  series  ot  afflictions,  amonfi 
which  was  that  of  rheumatism,  departed  this  life  at  Duni- 
Iries,  on  the  21st  of  July,  1796,  leaving  a  wife  and  four  sons 
to  mourn  his  early  death.  Two  of  his  sons  became  officers 
m  the  Last  India  Company's  service,  and  another  was 
employed  in  the  British  Stamp  Office,  and  the  other,  a  lad 
of  much  promise,  died  of  consumption. 


antte. 

bard's  remains  lie  at 
legant  monument  is 
m  in  tiie  capacity  of 
mains  were  interred 
and  those  of  Tarn 
green  sod  of  Kirk 
les  are  copied  from 
the  death  of  Scotia's 

c  hills, 
dly  spread, 
md  rills, 
blossoms  red  ; 
ead, 

land  reign, 
i  dead 
•tiling  strain. 

r  to  a  close,  so  adieu 


in  the  British  Revenue 
L'S  ot  afflictions,  among 
arted  this  life  at  Dum- 
ing  a  wife  and  four  sons 
his  sons  became  officers 
vice,  and  another  was 
ce,  and  the  other,  a  lad 
ion. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


247 


LETTER  XXVIT. 

SCOTLAND,    CONTINUl'-I>. 

From  Alloway  Kirli  wo  proceeded  along  the 
road  which  our  friend  Tarn  O'Shantcr  rode  over 
when  followed  closely  by  the  witches,  in  the 
hope  that  he  could  reach  the  bridge,  now  known 
as  the  "  Auld  Brig  o'  Doon,"  which  spans  %hc 
river  Doon,  and  leave  the  keystone  of  the  arch 
in  his  rear,  when  their  power  over  him,  it  was 
said,  would  cease.  But  alas!  lie  was  doomed  to 
disappointment,  for  just  as  he  gained  the  bridge 
the  enraged  hags  caught  the  auld  grey  marc  by 
the  tail,  of  which  the  bard  further  says  : 

"  The  carlin  claught  her  by  the  rump. 
An'  left  puir  Maggie  scarce  a  stump. " 

On  we  went  until  we  came  in  sight  of  a  neat 
hotel,  erected  at  the  junction  of  the  old  and  new 
road  leading  towards  Maybole,  named  the  "  Burn's 
Hotel,"  in  and  around  which  some  hundreds  of 
persons  were  assembled,  to  visit  the  monument 
and  Auld  Brig  o'  Doon,  some  of  which  were  accom- 


IF,   ^ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 

panied  by  bands  of  music,  whose  lively  strains 
were  principally  those  associated  with  the  songs 
of  Burns. 

The  monument  is  erected  on  a  site  overlooking 
the  old  bridge,  and  is  an  open  circular  temple  of 
classic  beauty,   having    nine  fluted   Corinthian 
columns  representing  the  muses.     It  is  sixty  feet 
high,  on  a  base  of  rustic  mason  work  twenty  feet 
high,  making  it  eighty  feet  from  the  ground. 
The  interior  is  a  circular  room,  lighted  by  a 
cupola  of  rich   stained    glass,   which    contains 
many  relics  connected  with  the  history  of  the 
poet,  among  which  is  the  Bible  he  presented  to 
Highland  Mary  when  they  last   met,  and  Jane 
Armour's  gold  finger  rings,  some  copies  of  the 
best  edition  of  his  works,  and  other  articles  of 
interest  linked  with  his  memory,  as  also  a  well 
executed  marble  bust  pf  him  in  his  palmy  days. 
Leaving  that   room    we    wandered  over  the 
grounds  which   surround    the  monument,  and 
while  doing  so  came  upon  a  small  cottage  which 
we  entered,  and  found  it  to  contain  the  original 
life-size  statues  of  Tam   O'Shanter  and   Souter 
Johnny,  the  handiwork  of  a  self-taught  sculptor, 
a  native  of  the  neighborhood.     I  was  informed 
that  they    were  exhibited  in  all  the  principal 
cities  and  towns  of  Great  Britain,  where  they 
were  universally  acknowledged  as  being  perfect 
m  every  respect,  and  admired  as  a  great  work  of 
art,  thereby  establishing.for  the  artist  a  reputation 


and  g^ini 

much  to  h 

We  left 

down  the 

Brig  o'  D( 

O'Shantei 

alive,"  anc 

its  surfac 

attentive!] 

Banks  an( 

one  of  th( 

a  hundrec 

around  tl 

but  seldoi 

solely  dcA 

to  worshi 

The   b: 

restored  1 

many  ye 

repairing 

joints  am 

mount  th 

thousand 

carved  oi 

have  fron 

of  Burns 

name,  foi 

adding  n 

pose  the  I 

side  goin 

I  foun 

K* 


*'  - 


lively  strains 
I'ith  the  songs 

i  overlooking 
liar  temple  of 
d  Corinthian 
[t  is  sixty  feet 
k  twenty  feet 

the  ground, 
lighted  by  a 
ich  contains 
istory  of  the 

presented  to 
et,  and  Jane 
:opies  of  the 
;r  articles  of 
s  also  a  well 

palmy  days, 
ed  over  the 
lument,  and 
3ttage  which 

the  original 

and  Souter 
jht  sculptor, 
as  informed 
le  principal 

where  they 
eing  perfect 
'eat  work  of 
a  reputation 


O'er  the  Atlaniie. 


249 


and  graining  for  himself  a  name,  which  added 
much  to  his  pecuniary  resources. 

We  left  this  delightful  retreat  and  proceeded 
down  the  old  road,  and  ^oon  were  on  the  Auld 
Brig  o'  Doon,  picturing  in  my  imagination  Tarn 
O'Shanter's  flght  over  it,  "  when  more  dead  than 
alive,"  and  the  days  when  the  immortal  bard  trod 
its  surface.  There  I  stood  with  my  heart  full, 
attentively  listening  to  the  beautiful  song,  "  Ve 
Banks  and  Braes  o'  Bonnie  Doon,"  rendered  by 
one  of  the  visitors,  accompanied  by  a  chorus  of 
a  hundred  voices  from  those  standing  on  and 
around  the  bridge.  More  pure  devotit)n  I  had 
but  seldom  witnessed.  Every  one  seemed  to  be 
solely  devoted  to  the  day  and  occasion,  as  if  there 
to  worship  at  the  shrine  of  Burns. 

The  bridge,  of  late,  has  been  very  much 
restored  by  removing  the  thick  ivy  which  for 
many  years  had  clad  its  gray  walls,  and  by 
repairing  with  cement  the  fast  decaying  stones, 
joints  and  crevices.  But  the  stones  which  sur- 
mount the  walls  are  the  same,  and  still  bear 
thousands  of  names  and  initials  of  names,  rudely 
carved  on  their  surface  by  some  of  those  who 
have  from  time  to  time  journeyed  into  the  land 
of  Burns,  and  among  which  soon  figured  another 
name,  for  I  availed  myself  of  the  opportunity  of 
adding  mine  to  the  list,  choosing  for  tiie  pur- 
pose the  tenth  or  centre  stone  on  the  right  hand 
side  going  towards  Maybole. 
I  found  it  very  pleasant,  nay,  delightful,  to 


»/  ^ 


'SO 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


wander  along  the  banks  of  the  beautiful  and 
placid  little  river,  so  much  associated  with  the 
memory  of  the  great  bard,  where  he,  upon  many 
occasions,  as  he  reclined  on  the  green  sward,  or 
leisurely  walked  along,  his  soul  wrapped  in  the 
muse,  composed  some  of  the  poems  which  now 
are    so   much    admired.      Apropos   of  this,   if  I 
recollect  right,  it  was  there  he  composed  or  laid 
down  the  foundation  of  his  truly  laughable  and 
amusing  poem  of  Tarn  O'Shanter;    and   while 
doing  so  his  wife   who  became  anxious  for  his 
return  home  one  day,  owing  to  him  remaining 
out  on  his  walk  longer  than  usual,  went  out  to 
seek  him,  when  she  found  him  walking  along  the 
river  bank,  making  the  strangest  gesticulations, 
and  at  times   laughing  and   talking  to  himself 
which  might  have  led  her  to  suppose  that  he  had 
become  suddenly  insane,  and  perhaps  more  fit  for 
an  inmate  of  a  lunatic  asylum,  than  a  wanderer 
along  a  nver  bank.     But  the  poet  was  then,  it 
appears,  overhead  and  ears  in  this  inimitable  poem, 
which  was  affording  him  mirth  beyond  his  concep- 
tion,  and  causing  him  to  laugh  immoderately  at  his 
ludicrous  composition,  of  which  the  following 
are  the  most  amusing  parts,  depicting  Tam's 
approaching  the  old  haunted  kirk  :* 

"The  lightnings  flashed  from  pole  to  pole  ; 
Near  and  more  near  the  thunders  roll  ; 
When  glimmering  thro*  the  groaning  trees, 

"rZI'n-S,""'.'  '»  "°'  P^"'''^"  'hat  the  Bard  composed 
Tam  O  Shanter,"  even  in  this  neighborhood.       ''°™P°*^° 


Kirk  Alia 
Thro'  ilka 
And  loud 

"  Inspirin, 
What  dan 
Wi'  tippci 
Wi'  asqua 
The  swat' 
Fair  play, 
But  Magj 
Till,  by  tl 
She  ventu 
And  wow 
Warlocks 
Nae  cotill 
But  horni 
Put  life  a 

"  As  Tan 
The  mirtl 
The  pipei 
The  danc 
They  reel 
Till  ilka 
And  coos 
And  link 

"  But  wit 
Rig\vood 
Lowping 
I  wonder 
And  how 
And  thoi 
Even  Sat 
And  hotc 
Till  first 
Tam  tint 


O'er   the  Atlantic. 


251 


iautiful  and 
ed  with  the 
upon  many 
:n  sward,  or 
pped  in  the 
which  now 
f  this,  if  I 
osed  or  laid 
ighabie  and 

and   while 
ious  for  his 

remaining 
kvent  out  to 
g  along  the 
ticulations, 
to  himself 
that  he  had 
more  fit  for 
1  wanderer 
as  then,  it 
table  poem, 
hisconcep- 
-atelyathis 

following 
ing  Jam's 


i  composed 


Kirk  Alloway  seemed  in  a  bleeze  ; 

Thro'  ilka  bore  the  beams  were  glancing,     ; 

And  loud  resounded  mirth  and  dancing. 

"  Inspiring  bold  John  Barleycorn  ! 

What  dangers  thou  canst  make  us  scorn  ! 

Wi'  tippeny,  we  fear  nae  evil ; 

Wi'  asquabae  we'll  face  the  devil  ! — 

The  swat's  sao  ream'd  in  Tammie's  noddle, 

Fair  play,  he  car'd  nae  deils  a  boddle, 

But  Maggie  stood  right  sair  astonish'd, 

Till,  by  the  heel  and  hand  admonish'd  ; 

She  ventur'd  forward  on  the  light, 

And  wow  !    Tam  saw  an  unco  sight  ! 

Warlocks  and  witches  in  a  dance, 

Nae  cotillion  brent  new  frae  France, 

But  hornpipes,  jigs,  strathspeys  and  reels, 

Put  life  and  mettle  in  their  heels. 

"  As  Tammie  glowr'd,  amaz'd  and  curious. 
The  mirth  and  fun  grew  fast  and  furious  ; 
The  piper  loud  and  louder  blew. 
The  dancers  quick  and  quicker  flew  ; 
They  recl'd,  they  set,  tliey  cross'd,  they  cleekit 
Till  ilka  carl  in  swat  and  reekit, 
And  coost  her  duddies  to  the  wark 
And  linket  at  it  in  her  sark  ! 

"  But  wither'd  beldams,  auld  and  droll, 
Rig^voodic  hags,  wad  spean  a  foal, 
Lowping  an'  flinging  on  a  cummock, 
I  wonder  didna  turn  thy  stomach. 
And  how  Tam  stood  like  one  bewitch'd. 
And  thought  his  very  een  enrich'd  ;, 
Even  Satan  glower'd,  and  fidg'd  fu'  fain, 
And  hotched  and  blew  wi  might  and  main  ; 
Till  first  ae  caper,  syne  anither 
Tam  tint  his  reason  a'  thegither, 


ty 


25'  O'er  the  Atlantic, 

And  roars  out  'weel  done,  cutty-sark  I' 
And  in  an  instant  all  was  dark  ; 
And  scarcely  had  he  Maggie  rallied, 
When  out  the  hellish  legion  sallied. 

"  As  bc6s  bizz  out  wi  angry  fyke,  i 

When  plundering  herds  assail  their  bykc  ; 

As  open  pussie's  mortal  foes, 

When,  pop  !  she  starts  before  their  nose  ; 

As  eager  runs  the  market  crowd. 

When  "  catch  the  thief!"  resounds  aloud  ; 

So  Maggie  runs,  the  witches  follow, 

Wi*  mony  an  eldritch  screech  and  hollow. 

"  Ah,  Tarn  !  ah,  Tam  !  thou'll  get  thy  fairin' ! 
In  hell  they'll  roast  thee  like  a  herrin'  ! 
In  vain  thy  Kate  awaits  thy  comin', 
Kate  soon  will  be  a  woefi:  woman  ! 
Now  do  thy  speedy  utmost,  Meg, 
And  coin  the  keystane  of  the  Brig ; 
There  at  them  thou  thy  tail  may  toss. 
A  running  stream  they  darena  cross  !" 

"Thus  runs  the  legend  poem  throughout,  dis- 
playing much  variety  of  power  in  its  brief  com- 
position.  It  was  written  as  an  inducement  to 
Grose  to  admit  Alloway  Kirk  into  his  work  on 
the  antiquities  of  Scotland,  so  we  are  informed, 
by  Allan  Cunningham,  in  his-  new  life  of  the 
poet."  And  now  having  given  a  somewhat 
more  lengthy  account  of  the  "  Land  o'  Burns," 
past  and  present,  than  I  intended  to  do,  I  nfUst 
away  from  that  very  interesting  spot  and  subject, 
and  bid  Scotland  adieu,  for  the  time  has  at  length 
arrived  to  within  a  few  days  of  our  departure  to 
re-cross^  once    more    the   broad    Atlantic ;   but 


a   few 

genera 

letter; 

in   Ire 

same  s 

Scot 

and  to 

tain  t< 

hundr 

majesi 

indeet 

parts 

comp: 

betvvc 

Ballo 

infori 

the  p 

To 

for  i 

treeU 

heath 

chart 

coun 

appr 

lowe 

tops, 

quer 

und( 

and 

win( 

and 


»^ 


rk! 


bykc  ; 
nose ; 
iloud  ; 

lollow. 

y  fairin' ! 
in'! 


:hroughout,  dis- 
n  its  brief  com- 

inducement  to 
ito  his  worlc  on 
e  are  informed, 
new  life  of  the 
n  a  somewhat 
^and  o'  Burns," 
d  to  do,  I  nfUst 
pot  and  subject, 
le  has  at  length 
ur  departure  to 

Atlantic;   but 


O'er  the  Atlantu. 


aS3 


a  few  words  abo>it  Scotland  and  its  people 
generally  will,  I  trust,  not  be  out  of  place  in  this 
letter;  for  I  have  on  the  termination  of  our  tour 
in    Ireland  and  Wales  remarked  briefly  on  the 

same  subject.  .    . 

Scotland  is  the  northern  part  of  Great  Britain, 
and  to  a  great  extent  is  mountainous,  its  moun- 
tain tops,  covered  with  heather,  and  dotted  with 
hundreds  of  thousands  of  small  sheep,  is  grand, 
majestic   and  picturesque  in  the  extreme ;  and 
indeed,  I  may  say  that  there  are  but  few  places  or 
parts  of  the  united  kingdom  which  can  favorably 
compare  with  the  rich  and  prolific  soil  that  lies 
between  Edinburgh,  Steriing,  and  away  towards 
Balloch  on  Loch-lomond,  land,  I  was  creditably 
informed,  that  cannot  be  excelled  for  its  yield  of 
the  product  of  agriculture. 

To  me,  Scotia  is  certainly  to  be  much  admired 
for  its  vast  wild   mountain   scenery,   perfectly 
treeless,  but  when  covered  with  the  blooming 
heather  as  with  a  purple  mantle,  it  lends  it  a 
charm  but  seldom  if  ever  witnessed  in  any  other 
country   that  I   have  visited.      And   when  the 
approaching  storms  begin  to  gather,  when  the 
lowering  clouds  begin  to  nestle  on  the  mountain 
tops,  when  the  thousands  of  small  sheep  in  conse- 
quence  begin  to  gather  into  their  respective  folds, 
under  the  adroit  management  of  their  shepherds 
and  sagacious  dogs,  and  amid  the  roaring  of  the 
wind  and  the  pitiless  rain,  the  claps  of  thunder 
and  much  dreaded  forked  lightning,  the  scene 


». 


>J4 


O'er  the  Atlantic 


changes  from  that  delightful  charm  to  that 
of  the  most  awfully  grand  ;  but  I  am  digressing 
in  speaking  of  the  country  I  must  not  forget  its 
people,  who  have  so  much  to  admire  and  be 
proud  of. 

The  Scotch,  as  I  remarked  in  my  letter  on  the 
termination  of  our  tour  thrtiugh  Wales,  are  of  the 
Celtic  or  Keltic  race.     A  people  endowed  with 
much  courage,  accustomed  to  great  hardships, 
physically  and  otherwise,  and  are  thrifty,  indus- 
tnousand  frugal  in  their  habits,  patriotic  and  loyal, 
becoming  intelligent  and  well  informed  through 
not  being  backward  in  study,  availing  themselves 
ot   the  teachings  of  the   excellent  schools  with 
which  the  country  abounds,  hence  why  we  find 
among  the  Scots  in   this  country   such  a  well 
informed  class  of  people.     As  a  people,  both  at 
home  and  abroad,  I  have  had  frequent  opportu- 
nities of  judging  their  characteristics,  and  am 
pleased  to  remark  that  I  have  always  found  them 
honest,  truthful  and  -.pright,  warm  in  their  friend- 
ship, and  good  law  abiding  citizens. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


25s 


:harm    to    that 

am  digressing 

it  not  forget  its 

idmire  and   be 

ly  letter  on  the 
'ales,  are  of  the 
endowed  with 
eat  hardships, 
thrifty,  indus- 
iotic  and  loyal, 
>rmed  through 
ng  themselves 
schools  with 
why  we  find 
'  such  a  well 
eople,  both  at 
uent  opportu- 
itics,  and  am 
'S  found  them 
n  their  friend- 


LETTER  XXVIII. 

ENGLAND    AGAIN. 

Leaving  Glasgow  by  a  different  route  to  tliat 
we  arrived  by,  we  on  a  fine  morning  in  Septem- 
ber,  took   the    10  A.  M.  train  on  the  Caledonia 

Railroad  for 

Liverpool,— Of  which  place  I  shall  give  but  a 
brief  description,  for  its  history  is  so  well  known 
in  America,  commercially  and  otherwise,  from 
its  almost  every  day  coPMnunications  with  New 
York ;  ar.d  setting  aside  its  vast  and  magnifi- 
cent line  of  docks  for  the  accommodation  of 
shipping,  I  may  say  that  there  is  nothing  of 
much  interest  to  be  seen  by  the  traveler. 

The  Liverpool  docks  are  very  many,  among 
which  I  may  name  a  few,  viz:  The  Victoria, 
Albert,  Princess,  Waterloo,  Clarence,  Bi  unswick, 
Bramley-moore,  Nelson,  Trafalgar,  St.  George 
and  Salthouse,  all  of  which  are  said  to  be  the 
finest  and  most  substantial  in  the  world.  They 
extend  in  a  direct  line  for  a  distance  of  eight 
miles,  and  are  constructed  of  massive  hewn  stone, 
enclosed  within  lofty  walls,  which  have  wide 


♦'  ^ 


*«•  O'er  the  Atlantic. 

entrance  gates,  and  have  accommodation  within 
these  walls  for  wares  and  merchandise  in  lofty 
fire  proof  storehouses  on  a  very  extensive  scale. 
There  are  also  very  extensive  and  similarly 
constructed  docks  at  Birkenhead,  directly  oppo- 
site  Liverpool,  a  place  rapidly  increasing  in  size 
and  population,  which  will  no  doubt  in  the 
course  of  time  become  a  second  Liverpool. 

Liverpool  can  also  boast   of  a  few  very  fine 
public  buildings.     First  is  the  St.  George's  Hall, 
the  most  magnificent  building  of  the  whole;  it 
resembles  very  much  the  Church  of  the  Made- 
line,  at  Paris,  having  massive  Corinthian  columns 
and   broad    flights    of   stone   steps  around   the 
entire   building,  and  it  is  the  only  structure  of 
note  that  has  been  erected  in  the  town,  on  a  site 
where  it  can  be  viewed  to  advantage.     Next  in 
style  of  architecture  are  the  Exchange,  General 
Post  Office  and  Custom  House,  and  lastly,  the 
Sailors'  Home,  quite  an  imposing  structure  and 
a  blessing  to  the  often  too  good  natured   Tar 
wherein  he  is  perfectly  safe  from  thfe  land  sharks 
wh,  >  generally  infest  large  sea  ports.     "  A  friend 
in  need  is  a  friend  indeed,"  for  such  can  be  truly 
said  of  the  Liver-  ,ol  Sailors'  Home,  wherein  the 
venturesome  and  frequently  victimized  mariner 
can  find  shelter  and  protection,  with  the  free  use 
of  books  and  nautical  instruments  to  occupy  his 
leisure  hours  and  improve  his  mind. 

I  must  now,  for  the  time  has  at  last  arrived  for  us 
to  bid  the  "  Mother  Country"  a  long  farewell,  and 


once  more 
I  will  thei 
the  chara( 
especially 
opportunit 
Indeed,  an 
well  know 
fluous  on  I 
them. 

On   the 

board    th( 

Captain  B 

and   stean 

against  a 

increased 

wrong  po 

The  ne: 

into  the  I; 

ing  a  goo 

way,  and 

the  good 

the  very 

York  to  t 

on  her  t 

having  t 

Glad  we 

handkerc 

Captain  i 

comfort  £ 

amusem( 

and  rou£ 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


257 


ition  within 
ise  in  lofty 
snsive  scale, 
id  similarly 
ectly  oppo- 
sing in  size 
ubt  in  the 
•pool. 

V  very  fine 
)rge's  Hall, 
;  whole;  it 
the  Made- 
in  columns 
iround   the 
ructure  of 
n,  on  a  site 
Next  in 
e,  General 
lastly,  the 
icture  and 
ured   Tar, 
md  sharks 
"  A  friend 
n  be  truly 
herein  the 
i  mariner 
e  free  use 
ccupy  his 

ved  for  us 
well,  and 


once  more  tread  the  decks  of  an  ocean  steamer. . 
1  will  theretore  omit  speaking  of  England  and 
the  characteristics  of  the  people  generally, 
especially  as  my  readers  have  had  frequent 
opportunities  of  judging  of  them  for  themselves. 
Indeed,  an  Englishman  and  a  Frenchman  are  so 
well  known  to  the  world  that  it  would  be  super- 
Jluous  on  my  part  to  attempt  to  describe  cither  of 

them. 

On  the  12th  of  September  we  embarked  on 
board  the  royal  mail  steamship  "Peruvian," 
Captain  Ballantine,  for  Quebec  via  Londonderry, 
and  steamed  out  of  the  Mersey  late  at  night 
against  a  strong  breeze  of  wind,  which  soon 
increased  to  a  gale,  and  that  from  precisely  the 
wrong  point  of  the  compass. 

The  next  day,  when  nearing  Moville,  and  close 
into  the  Irish  coast,  we  were  fortunate  in  obtain- 
ing a  good  sight  of  the  renowned  Giant's  Cause- 
way, and  had  the  pleasure  of  passing  close  to 
the  good  ship  "  Hibernia,"  of  the  anchor   line, 
the  very  ship  that  brought  us  safely  from  New 
York  to  the  Emerald  Isle.     She  was  then  en,  route 
on  her  trip  from  New  York  to  Glasgow,  after 
having  touched  at   Derry   to   land   passengers. 
Glad  were  we  to   me-t  her,  and  to  wave  our 
handkerchiefs  to  the  >  ry  gentlemanly  and  social 
Captain  and  his  officers,  who  done  so  much  for  our 
comfort  and  catered  so  much  for  our  pleasure  and 
amusement,  whereby  the  monotony  of  a  tedious 
and  rough  sea  voyage  was  very  much  lessened. 


asS 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


.Both    Captains     wtTo    old    iicqnaintanccs    and 
recognized    cadi    otiier,   and    passed   the   usual 
romplinicnts  by  dipping  tlicir  rcs|)ective  colors 
in  token  of  respect,  soon  alter  which  the  heavy 
engines  cf  the  "  Peruvian  "  were  stoppeti,  fur  we 
were  off  the  village  of  Moville,  ready  to  receive 
the   nuiils   and    passengers    from    Londonderry, 
for   which    we    were  detained  four  hcu.s.     Tlie 
mails,  forwarded  during  tlie  night  from  London, 
together   witli    the   passengers,   at    last   arrived, 
wiiich  (Kcui)icd  some  c()nsiderai)le  time  in  trans- 
ferring from  the  small  steamer  which  came  along 
side.     The  mail,  consisting  of  about  two  hundred 
sacks  of    letters   and    newspapers,   were  put   on 
board  llrst,  then   the  j)asscngers,  none  of  whom 
were   permitted    to   come   on    board   before   the 
last  mail  bag  was  given  in  charge  of  the  gtncrn- 
ment  mail  agent.     "  Keep  back  urtil  the  mail  is 
delivered,'  was  the  order  given  lo  tlie  an.Kious  pas- 
sengers huddled  together  on  thedeck  of  the  tender, 
toUowed  by  the  hasty  and  griift"  remark,  "  Make 
room!     Make  room  for  the  mail.'"     Thought  I 
t(j  myself,  as  I  leaned  over  the  side  of  the  ship 
watching  the  transfer  of  I  Icr  Majesty's  letter  bags, 
Mr.    Mail    is   "  w///^- ///w/XvVw,"  and   must    be  "of 
considerable  more   importance  than  the  human 
race.     At  last  Mr.  Mail  was  safely  on  board,  and 
the  Messieurs  passengers  were  allowed  to  leave 
the  little  craft,  whereon  many  were  about  half 
sea   sick.      Then   the  ponderous    engines   were 
again    put    in   motion,  and    the   stately   vessel 


lieadcd  out  toi 
ijalc  of  wind 
among  us  wh 
than  replenij 
maladies  extii 
verily  believe 
>ea  sickness  is 
Thinking  tl 
tiie  ocean  m: 
readers,  it  bei 
I  will  omit  g 
tent  myself  w 
passage,  duri 
end,"  we,  on 
Belle  Isle,  wi 
and  left  of  us. 
straits  and  e 
house  keeper 
weather-beate 
to  him  almoi 
slackening  sj 
and  perhaps,  ; 
ling  with  th 
bustling  city 
steamed  alor 
direct  for  tlit 
p.  M.   the  ne> 


•  Icebergs  are 
seen.  Sailors  s 
windward  of  ihc 


0\'r  the  AthviUc. 


859 


licadcd  out  towards  the  Atlantic  against  a  strong 
pale  of  wind,  and  ere  long  many  there  were 
among  us  who,  were  inclined  for  anything  else 
than  replenishing  the  stomach.  t)f  all  the 
maladies  extant— if  it  may  be  so  termed— 1 
verily  believe  from  what  I  iiave  witnessed,  that 
^ea  sickness  is  the  worst. 

Thinking  that  an  account  of  the  passage  across 
the  ocean  may  not  be  very  interesting  to  my 
readers,  it  being  of  about  tiie  same  daily  routine, 
I  will  omit  giving  a  detailed  account,  and  con- 
tent myself  with  stating  that  after  a  very  stormy 
passage,  during  which  the  wind  was  "dead  an 
end,"  we,  on  the  20th  of  the  month,  sighted 
Belle  Isle,  with  several  immense  icebergs  right 
and  left  of  us.*  At  5  v.  m.  we  passed  through  the 
straits  and  exchanged  signals  witli  the  light- 
house keeper  on  that  very  barren,  desolate  and 
weather-beaten  island,  where  the  world  must  i)e 
to  him  almost  a  blank.  On  we  sped,  without 
slackening  speed,  leaving  him  in  his  solitude, 
and  perhaps,  as  contented  and  happy  as  if  ming- 
ling with  the  gay  and  lashionabie  people  in  a 
bustling  city  of  the  world.  That  night  we 
steamed  along  the  coast  of  Labrador,  heading 
direct  for  the  Gulf  of  St.  Lawrence,  and  at  10 
p.  M.   the  next   day  we  were  in    smooth  water, 

•  Icebergs  are  known  to  be  near  long  before  they  are 
seen.  Sailors  say  they  smell  them,  especially  when  to 
windward  of  ihe  ship— a  cold  air  is  easily  felt. 


,-;1{ 


t/    ». 


260 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


off  the  Island  of  Antacosta  in  the  gulf.  Quite  a 
treat  to  all  after  the  severe  weather  we  had 
encountered  throughout,  and  the  occasion  was 
rendered  the  more  pleasing  when  evening  came, 
in  witnessing  that  beautiful  phenomenon  the 
northern  light  or  aurora  borealis,  which  so  fre- 
quently adorn  those  latitudes,  and  which  were  of 
the  brightest  and  most  beautiful  description. 

We  had  a  most  pleasant  time  steaming  up  the 
gulf,  but  on  our  arrival  in  the  river  St.  Law- 
rence we  were  detained  off  Father  Point,  where 
the  pilot  came  on  board,  for  five  hours,  owing  to 
an  accident  to  some  part  of  the  machinery,  which 
at  last  being  repaired,  we  proceeded  at  a  rapid 
speed  up  the  beautiful  river,  the  scenery  on 
which,  and  that  optical  illusion  the  mirage 
ahead  and  astern  of  the  ship,  was  beautiful  to' 
behold. 

On  the  afternoon  of  the  23d  we  were  running 
along  the  Island  of  Orleans,  a  few  miles  below 
Quebec,  with  the  citadel  of  the  city  to  be  seen  in 
the  distance  ;  and  at  8  p.  m.  the  "  Peruvian"  got 
into  her  dock,  making  the  passage  from  Liver- 
pool under  the  most  unfavorable  circumstances 
in  eleven  days,  of  which  the  following  is  her  log, 
giving  the  latitude  and  longitude,  and  distance 
run  each  day : 


aUi««MMI 


t,  ^ 


Atlantic. 

>sta  in  the  gulf.     Quite  a 
severe   weather  we   had 
t,  and   the  occasion  was 
ling  when  evening  came, 
LUtiful    phenomenon   the 
a  borealis,  which  so  fre- 
tudes,  and  which  were  of 
eautiful  description. 
It  time  steaming  up  the 
il  in  the  river  St.  Law- 
off  Father  Point,  where 
for  five  Jiours,  owing  to 
of  the  machinery,  which 
'e  proceeded  at  a  rapid 

river,   the    scenery  on 
1    illusion    the   mirage, 

ship,  was  beautiful  to 

e  23d  we  were  running 
ans,  a  few  miles  below 
3f  the  city  to  be  seen  in 
M.  the  "  Peruvian"  got 
e  passage  from  Liver- 
avorable  circumstances 
he  following  is  her  log, 
ongitude,  and  distance 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


261 


Date  '  Lat.  \  Lon.  Miles.  *  Remarks. 

i    N.   I  W 


,0  p.  M.  Sept.  12,  o.   3   g-   3, 

2     "         "  I3r-P    Pi?'    ?! 

"  15I     "     '19  411 

■•  16:56  1927  50! 

'•  1755  29135  461 

"  18,54  1942  33 

"  I9i53  25,47  33 


20,52  07 

I 


53  47 


2150  17159  " 

i  I 

2249  24I65  20 


Distance  run. 


Left  Liverpool. 
Arrived  at  Movillc. 
Blowing  hard  and  much 
sea. 

250   More  moderate. 
274  I  Blowing  very  hard. 
270  IMore  moderate. 
245  iWind  increasing. 

Severe  gale   and    head 

sea. 
More  moderate— among 
icebergs — very  cold — 
made  Belle  Isle. 
250  'Calm— in   the   Gulf    of 
'     St.  Lawrence. 
Pleasant,  mild  weather 
going    up    St.    Law- 
rence, many  ships  in 
company. 
Arrived    at    Quebec   7 
p.  M. 


190 
191 


185 
245 


270 


288 
2658 


iContrary  winds  whole 
1     passage. 

The  "Peruvian"   is  owned  by  the   Montreal 
Ocean   Royal   Mail   Steamship   Company,   is   a 
large  vessel  of  great  power,  and  an   excellent 
sea  boat;  but  I  must  say  that  the  officers  of  the 
ship  are  not  of  that  kind   which   officered  the 
«  Hibernia,"  of  the  anchor  line,  on  our  passage 
to  Europe.     The  latter  were  kind,  sociable  and 
agreeable,    and    the    former    quite  the   reverse, 
unkind,  unsociable  and  disagreeable,  the  Captam 
a  regular  old  salt,  blunt,  uncourteous  and  undig- 
nified  in  his  manner  and  conversation,  but  a 
good  sailor  no  doubt.     So  we  left  the  good  ship 
"  Peruvian"   without  a  single  regret,  and  were 


f,   .^ 


362 


OW  Ihe  Atlantic. 


quickly  driven  to  our  hotel,  named  the  St.  Loui 
where  we  were  well  entertained.     In  my  next 
will  give  an  account  of  Quebec,  the  passage  ui 
the  river  to  Montreal,  &c. 


0' 

in  tl 

hire( 

the  ( 

Cita 

look 

man 

O 

pom 

in  c 

ppli 

to  s 

A 

par 

inti 

wit 

disi 

shi] 

doc 

upi 

me 


f*  •^. 


UlttC. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


263 


lamed  the  St.  Louis 
ined.     In  my  next 
bee,  the  passage  iij 


LETTER  XXIX. 

CANADA, 

Quebec— The  next  morning  after  we  arrived 
in  "this  remarkable  city,  erected  on  a  hill,  we 
hired  a  caleche  (carriage),  and  proceeded  to  see 
the  city  and  its  environs,  driving  first  to  see  the 
Citadel,  which  is  erected  on  the  summit  over- 
looking the  Plains  of  Abram  and  the  country  lor 
many  miles  on  both  sides  of  the  river. 

On  our  arrival  within  the  massive  walls  and 
ponderous  gates  of  bar  and  chain,  we  were  taken 
in  charge  by  one  of  the  guard,  then  oft  duty,  and 
politely  shown  everything  that  was  interesting 
to  strangers. 

A  delightful  view  is  obtained  trom  the  ram- 
parts of  the  city  beneath,  with  its  narrow  and 
intricate  streets,  of  the  entrance  to  the  harbor, 
with  Point  Levi  and  the  Island  of  Orleans  in  the 
distance,  as  also  of  the  naval  and  mercantile 
.hips  at  anchor,  and  moored  alongside  their 
docks  There  we  stood  looking  directly  down 
upon  their  decks,  enabled  to  observe  every  move- 
ment made  by  the  officers  and  crews  under  their 


i 


ni^s^ 


264 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


command  while  performing  their  work.  It  was 
on  that  spot  stood  the  Prince  of  Wales,  when  on 
a  visit  to  Quebec  some  years  previous,  a  stone 
having  the  Crown  and  Feathers,  with  the  motto, 
"  Ich  Dien"  over  his  name  aad  date  inscribed, 
marlts  tlie  spot  in  commemoration  of  the 
event,  and  away  to  our  riglit  and  near  by  was 
the  steep  rock  or  cliff  where  fell  General  Mont- 
gomery, during  the  French  and  English  struggle 
for  possession.  An  old  sign,  very  much  obliter- 
ated by  the  action  of  the  weather,  announces  the 
fatal  circumstance  in  a  {^\\  words:  "Here  fell 
Montgomery,"   etc. 

Leaving  the  Citadel,  we  proceed  to  the  Plains 
of  Abram,  whereon  was  fought  the  great  battle 
so  fatal  to  the  French,  and  which  was  gained  by 
the  British  at  a  great  sacrifice,  counting  among 
their  slam  the  brave  and  accomplished  General 
Wolfe.  A  monument  of  no  mean  pretensions  is 
erected  on  the  spot  where  he  breathed  his  last, 
just  as  victory  crowned  the  day. 

When  a  boy  serving  my  apprenticeship  at 
sea,  I  made  a  few  voyages  from  Wales  to 
guebec.  It  was  about  the  years  1840-41,  upon 
which  occasion  I  visited  the  Plains  of  Abram 
At  that  time  Wolfe's  monument  was  simply  a 
round  stone  pillar  of  perhaps,  including  its  base, 
ten  feet  high,  inscribed,  "  Here  died  Wolfe."  It 
had,  and  was  then  undergoing  daily  a  great  deal 
of  abuse,  caused  by  children  and  thoughtless 
persons   throwing   stones  at  it  until  at  last  the 


governm 

present 

ture  whi 

ccssor  h 

much   d 

plain  of 

for   verj 

uccupie< 

from  tin 

scarcely 

the  wor; 

of  the 

buildini 

last  stai 

decay, v 

ous  coi 

my   reti 

which  > 

way   th 

which  1 

the   Fa 

disastri 

a  circu 

edly  re 

same  t 

partial 

tens  c 

places 

in  the 

to  ho 

all  it  ( 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


265 


work.  It  was 
V^ales,  when  on 
:vious,  a  stone 
■ith  the  motto, 
iate  inscribed, 
ration  of  the 
1  near  by  was 
general  Mont- 
iglish  struggle 

much  obliter- 
announces  the 
s:  "Here  fell 

to  the  Plains 
e  great  battle 
A'as  gained  by 
inting  among 
ished  General 
pretensions  is 
^thed  his  last, 

cnticeship  at 
m  Wales  to 
840-41,  upon 
s  of  Abram. 
ras  simply  a 
ding  its  base, 
I  Wolfe."  It 
'  a  great  deal 
thoughtless 
1  at  last  the 


government  erected,  at  a  considerable  outlay,  the 
present  more  appropriate  and  handsome  struc- 
ture which,  like  its  plain  and  unassuming  prede- 
cessor has,  I  regret  to  state,  ?,1  ready  been  very 
much   defaced  from    the  same  cause.     The  vast 
plain  of  those  days  has  undergone  great  change, 
for   very   little   of  it   is  left   but  that   has   been 
occupied  by  buildings  of  various  kinds.     Apart 
from  this  change,  Oviebec  seemed  to  me  to  have 
scarcely  changed  its  appearance,  unless  it  was  for 
the  worse.    The  Lower  Town,  in  the  neighborhood 
of  the   shipping,   had  improved  none,  and  the 
buildings  along  Champlain  street   were  in   the 
last  stages,  with  but  few  exceptions,  of  rot  and 
decay,  while  the  street  was  in  a  filthy  and  danger- 
ous  condition.     But  I  must  away  and  conduct 
my   readers   to    the    Falls   of  Montmorency,  to 
which  we  drove  from  the  Plains,  passing  on  our 
way   through  a  portion  of  the  burned  district, 
which  lies  between  the  upper  part  of  the  city  and 
the   Falls,   and    which    was    consumed    by   the 
disastrous  conflagration  cf  about  three  years  ago 
a  circumstance  many  of  my  readers  will  undoubt- 
edly recollect,  especially  as  it  occurred  about  the 
same  time  as  that  equally  disastrous  fire  which 
partially   devastated    Portland,   Maine,   causing 
tens  of    thousands  of  the    inhabitants  of  both 
places  to   seek   shelter   from   the   fiery  element 
in  the  streets,  as  it  spread  and  traveled  from  house 
to  house,  like  the  waves  of  the  ocean,  seeking 
all  it  could  devour. 


tAm^ 


266 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


i:i#^ 


X. 


fSj. 


An  hours'  drive  brought  us  into  the  neighbor- 
hood of  the  Falls;  but  ere  we  could  proceed  to 
view  them,  the  proprietor  of  the  grounds  adjoiO' 
ing  demanded  of  us  the  usual  entry  fee — one 
quarter  of  a  dollar  each>  which  we  paid  with  any-, 
thing  but  good  grace. 

On  our  arrival  at  the  sphish  of  water,  we  found 
that  the  river  directly  over  the  Falls  had  at  one 
time  been  spanned  by  a  suspension  bridge  of 
some  importance.  Portions  of  the  pillars  and 
some  pieces  of  chain  still  remained;  but  a 
terrible  tale  is  told  of  its  treacher)-,  which  is  this: 
A  man,  accompanied  with  his  wife,  seated  in  a 
b'iggy,  were  one  day  crossing  the  bridge  \vlien, 
horrible  to  relate,  the  chaius  suddenly  gave  way» 
and  the  bridge,  and  its  living  freight,  were  carried 
over  the  Falls  and  thrown  headlong  into  the- 
boiling  cauldron  below,  and  scrange  to  say,  not  a 
vestige  of  the  remains  of  man,  woman  or  horse 
nor  carriage  were  ever  found. 

Before  going  to  see  the  Falls  of  Montmorency, 
ask  yourself,  have  I  seen  those  of  Niagara  ?  If 
in  the  affirmative,  don't  go.  If  in  the  negative, 
go.  For  the  line  of  comparison  is  so  great  that 
Montmorency,  although  higher — being  250  feet 
high — dwindles  into  insignificance  when  seen  by 
those  who  have  witnessed  Niagara.  The  writer 
had  not  seen  the  latter,  but  after  having  done  so, 
he  almost  lost  all  recoH^ction  of  the  beauty  and 
grandeur  of  the  \   rme;. 

Retracing  our  way  back  to  Q^'f'  ec,  we  could 


not  but  I 

tion  of  t 

everythi 

and  the 

Befon 

visited  s 

walls,  a 

city's  hi 

of  my  r 

Oueb 

was  the 

lation 

divided 

Lower ' 

1629  by 

and  wa 

when 

Abram, 

Frencii 

to  Grea 

The 
rr.ent  e 
and  M 
montim 
ful,  bui 
appears 
erly  stc 
destroy 
river  ai 
The 
around 


f/'Mb. 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


267; 


e  nelghbor- 
i  proceed  to 
inds  adjoin- 
:y  fee — one 
id  with  any- 

Jr,  we  found 
>  had  at  one 
1  bridge  of 
pillars  and 
led ;  but  u 
hich  is  this: 
seated  in  a 
"idge  \viien, 
r  ga\e  way, 
I'ere  carried 
ig  into  the- 

0  say,  not  ai 
an  or  horse 

ntmorency, 
iagara  ?  If 
e  negative, 

1  great  that 
ig  250  feet 
len  seen  by 
The  writer 
ig  done  so, 
beauty  and 

:,  we  could 


not  but  recognize  the  similarity  in  the  construc- 
tion of  the  dwellings  with  those  of  France,  and 
everything  armrnd'  them  was  a  la  Johnny  Crapran, 
and  the  inliabitants  speak  a  mongrel  Frencii. 

Before  taking  mtr  d'cpnirture  for  Montreal  wc 
visited  several  places  of  interest  within  the  city 
walls,  a  brief  account  of  whachy  as  also  of  the 
city's  history,  may  not  be  unintcreiiting  to  many 
of  my  readers. 

Quebec  at  one  time,  ;ind  indeed  but  ireceutly, 
was  the  capital  of  the  Canadas,  and  has  a  popu- 
lation of  probably  50,000  inhabitants  It  is 
divided  into  two  parts,  known  as  the  Upper  andl 
Lower  Towns.  It  was  taken  from  the  French  im 
1629  by  the  British,  but  restored  to  them  in  1632,, 
and  was  again  captured  by  the  British  in  1759- 
when  Wolfe  commanded  on  the  Plains  of 
Abram,  by  which  victory  the  city,  with  all  the 
Frencli  possessions  in  North  America,  were  ceded 
to  Great  Britain  at  the  peace  of  1763. 

The  Public  Gardens,  where  stands  a  monu- 
rr.ent  erected  in  1827  to  the  memory  of  Wolfe 
and  Montcalm,  is  in  the  Upper  Town.  The 
monument  in  its  early  days  was  no  doubt  beauti- 
ful, but  now  has  a  somewhat  weather  beaten 
appearance.  From  Durham  Terrace,  where  form- 
erly stood  the  old  castle  of  St.  Louis,  which  was 
destroyed  by  fire  in  1834,  a  splendid  view  of  the 
river  and  Lower  Town  can  be  obtained. 

The  Place  d'  Armes  is  an  open  piece  of  ground 
around  which  the  old  chateau  of  St.  Lous,  the 


9."m^ 


a68 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


Government  offices,  the  English  Cathedral  and 
the  Court  House  arc  located. 

The  line  of  fortifications  enclosing  the  Citadel 
and  the  Upper  Town  is  nearly  three  miles  in 
length,  mounted  with  very  heavy  guns,  mostly 
48  pounders.  There  are  five  gates  to  the  city 
named  Prcscott,  Palace,  Hope,  St.  Louis  and 
St.  John,  and  fronting  the  Plains  of  Abrain  are 
four  Martello  Towers,  to  impede  the  advance  of 
an  enemy  from  that  direction. 

There  are  four  Catholic  Churches  in  tlie  city 
viz  :  The  Roman  Catholic  CatTiedral,  which  con- 
tains some  fine  paintings  by  the  old  masters,  the 
St.  Patrick's  Cathedral,  St.  Rock's  Church  and 
the     Church     of    Notre    Dame    Des    Victores 
The  latter  is  one  of  tlic  oldest  buildings  in  the 
city,  but  none  of  them  have  any  pretensions  to 
architectural  beauty;  as alsoa  great  manv  Protes- 
tant  Churches,  of  which  the  English  Cathedral 
is  the  handsomest  and  will  seat  about  4000  per- 
sons ;  there  are  besides  very  many  public  build- 
ings,  which  include  the  Barracks,  General  Hos- 
pital, Quebec  University,  the  Jail,  Marine  Hospital 
and  City  Hall  or  Court  House. 

There  are  a  great  many  sights  to  be  seen  in 
and  around  Quebec,  but  it  would  occupy  several 
days  to  do  m\  but  being  while  there  almost  I 
may  say  in  the  neighborhood  of  home,  we  were 
anxious  to  get  away,  so  had  to  forego  the  further 
pleasure  of  rambling  about,  and  take  passage  in 
the  beautiful  and  fast  river  steamboat,  "  Quebec," 


at 

P 
n 

n 

SI 

I 

s 
r 
I 
c 

I 
I 


1  Cathedral  and 

)sing  the  Citadel 
y  three  miles  in 
vy  guns,  mostly 
ates  to  the  city, 
St.  Louis  and 
iS  of  Abram  arc 
I  the  advance  of 

ches  in  the  city, 
iral,  which  con- 
old  masters,  the 
k's  Church  and 

Des  Victores. 
)uildings  in  the 

pretensions  to 
It  many  Protes- 
?lish  Cathedral 
ibout  4000  per- 
ly  public  build- 
';  General  Hos- 
tlarine  Hospital 

to  be  seen  in 
occupy  several 
there  almost  I 
fiome,  we  were 
ego  the  further 
:ake  passage  in 
oat,  "  Quebec," 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


269 


at  6  I'.  M.  oil  tiic  next  day  after  our  arrival,  and 
proceeded  up  the  river  to  Montreal.  The  accom- 
modations on  this  truly  elegant  boat  were  mag- 
nificent, and  the  charges,  whicii  included  fare, 
supper  and  stateroom,  very  moderate  indeed. 

At  6  A.  M.  the  next  morning,  the  long  V'ictoria 
Bridge  across  the  river  at  Montreal,  appeared  in 
sight,  and  soon  afterwards  the  city,'  which  ^ye 
reached  about  6:30.  We  were  driven  to  the  St. 
Lawrence  Hall,  which  we  made  our  lieadquarters 
during  our  stay  there. 

The  trip  from  Quebec  being  made  during  the 
night,  prevented  us  from  making  notes  to  remark 
upon  the  score  of  towns  and  villagt^  which  arc 
situated  along  the  banks  of  the  river,  as  also  of 
the  islands,  rapids  and  beautiful  scenery,  which  I 
was  informed  are  very  much  to  be  admired. 


t>-m^. 


270 


C'er  the  Atlantic. 


liii 


T.ETTER    XXX. 

CANADA,    CONTINUKi). 

MoN,RKA...-Montreal  is  the  lar^rest  ..nd  most 
populous  city  in  Canada,  bounded  on  o^e  side  by 
»>c   nver  Ottawa,  and   on  tl.e  other  bv  the  si 
Uw^n^  and  in  connection  with  ste^u^^el  and 

Brid    .  V     TT  '^'  ^^"^"^^•■-i''^'  .netropolisof 
writish  .North  America. 

It  was   rounded  in   ,642,  and  for  a  lon^^  time 
bore    t,,    „ame  of  Ville   Marie.     In    ,763    the 

or    an       .,;';?  ^'^^^n^ed  by  a  wall,  a  ditch, 
ort   ana   atadel,  aad   the  French   made  it   tlic 
'■eadqiarte: s  of  their  army. 

hafe^In'"""'  f  '"'^"'''■^'  ^"'^'■P'-i^e  and  labor 
Jme  done  much  to  enlarge  and  beautify  the  old 

ow"i"r:;';h''  ^""^'  ^^^-^^^^  housesin?„ar' 
ow  streets  have  succumbed  to  those  of  more 
modern  structure  and  architectural  beauty  and 
to-day  w.th  Mou,>t  Royal  i„  the  back  g'^^;und 
covered  with  elegant  villas.  I  must  sayXit' 
make-  a  beautiful  appearance. 
The  quay   wall    for    the    accommodation  of 


sliippi 
built  c 
sailing 
receiv 
the  v( 
in  the 

I  w 
place; 
city,  s 
pleasi 

As 
attent 
impoi 
and  1 
mark 
office 
4,000 

On 
erect( 
aijid  ^ 
sve.ry 

Ov 
Isuii'ld) 
Notr 
donb 
on  th 
It 
secoi 
stud( 
prisii 
and 


:uemmmmsa3mmMa 


i/  •^ 


O't'f  the  Atlantic. 


^«>i 


St  find  most 

one  side  by 

by  the  St. 

teanier  and 

etropolisof 

Jong-  time 

1763    the 

of  arms,  at 

ill,  a  ditch, 

iide  it   the 

and  labor 
ify  the  old 
s  and  nar- 
-  o^  more 
^uiy;  and 
c  ground, 
ay  that  it 

Jation   of 


shipping  is  upwards  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  is 
built  of  excellent  stone,  where  ocean  steamers  and 
sailing  vessels  of  large  burthen,  discharge  and 
receive  freight,  and  at  tiiat  point  terminated 
the  voyage  of  the  "Peruvian,"  reaching  there 
in  the  evening  of  the  day  of  our  arrival. 

I  will  now  proceed  to  give  an  account  of  the 
places  we  visited  during  our  short  stay  in  the 
city,  and  what  we  saw  that  was  interesting  and 
pleasing  to  the  sight. 

As  we  landed  from  tlie  floating  palace  our 
attention  was  soon  attracted  to  the  fine  and 
imposing  buildings  fronting  us— the  Market 
and  Town  Hall,  the  lower  floor  of  which  is  the 
market  place,  and  the  upper  is  occupied  as  city 
offices  and  a  large  concert  iiall,  which  will  seat 
4,000  persons. 

On  Jacques  Cartier  Square  is  a  monument 
erected  to  the  memory  of  Admiral  LoM  Nels«m, 
apd  ^  little  way  19  the  left  is  the  Court  House,  ii 
ye.ry  $pe  buiidiijig. 

vOo.the  Place  d'  Armes  are  some  very  elegant 
buiiliiiJog^,  among  whic^^  is  the  Cathedral  of 
Notre  Darae^  wbich  will  hold  ,10,009  people— ny 
donbt  the  largest  church,  as  it  is  claimed  to  be, 
on  the  American  continent. 

It  struck  me  very  much  that  the  place  was  a 
second  Brooklyn,  for  the  whole  neighborhood  is 
studded  witii  churches  of  various  sects,  com- 
prising Roman  Catholic,  Presbyterian,  Methodist 
and  a  host   of  others— not  even   omitting  that 


r 


ti 


a.  , 


272 


O'ct  the  Atlantic. 


peculiar  sect  ol  which  Hrother  Hrigham  is  llic 
Apostolic  General.  Hut  c.f  all  those  wc  entered 
I  found  that  of  the  Jesuits  to  be  the  most 
imposing,  and  as  to  the  interior,  it  i.s  finished  in 
the  most  elaborate  style  with  frescoes  of  inci 
dents  in  the  lives  of  our  Saviour  and  his  Apostles. 
This  church,  no  doubt,  as  the  Cathedral  of  Notre 
Uame  is  the  largest,  is  the  finest  and  most  elabo- 
rate of  all  churches  in  North  America. 

While  being  driven  from  place  to  place,  our 
attention  was  called  to  a  very  unassuming  looking 
dwelling,  wherein  we  were  informed  was  domi- 
ciled the  once  notorious  but  now  almost  forgotten 
Jefferson  Davis,  ex-President  of  the  once  Con- 
federate States  of  America.  How  glad  I  would 
have  been  to  have  seen  the  man  himself;  but  in 
that  we  were  unfortu  .rUe.  The  individual  who 
battled  for  year:,  vi  n  purpose  but  that  of  dnm- 
tation  and  ruin  ^  as  not  to  be  seen. 

A  few  Hi  tks  about  the  great  Victoria  Bridge 
e'er  I  take  my  leave  of  Montreal,  and  I  will 
accompany  the  reader  farther  up  the  river  St. 
Lawrence. 

The  bridge  is  a  wonderful  structure,  on  the 
tubular  principle,  resting  upon  twenty-four  piers, 
is  a  mile  and  a  quarter  long,  and  over  it  is  the 
great  line  of  traffic  with  the  United  States.  It 
cost  upwards  of  $7,000,000,  and  war.  built  by  Mr. 
James  Hodges,  under  the  direction  of  that  cele- 
brated Engineer,  Mr.  Robert  Stevei:son. 

After  parting  with   my  better  half,  who   was 


t^i 


». -» 


r  Hrigham  is  llic 

lliosc  \vc  entered 

to    be  the  most 

r,  it  ih  linislierl  in 

frescoes  of  Inci- 

nnd  his  Apostles. 

ithedral  of  Notre 

t  and  most  elabo- 

nicrica. 

ice  to  place,  (Hir 
assnming  looking 
ormcd  was  domi- 
almost  forgotten 
»f  the  once  Con- 
o\v  glad  I  would 
n  himself;  but  in 
:  individual  who 
but  that  of  defas- 
1. 

;  Victoria  Bridge 
treal,  and  I  will 
up  the   river  St. 

structure,  on  the 
wenty-four  piers, 
nd  over  it  is  the 
nited  States.  It 
war.  built  by  Mr. 
ion  of  that  cele- 
!vei:son. 
■  half,  who   was 


r 


•  '-■"-  -"iJ—iTi- "  '  "  '  •  -"-'  '^^ "—'-'--'■■  If"'' 


Mrrfin*«>iVi-«*--'J- 


"■■■  \-, 


^, 


m 


Va 


^}. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


I.I 


2.0 


140 


m 


;' 

1.25 

II  U     III  1.6 

* 

< 

6"     

► 

Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


«♦ 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductlons  historiques 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


273 


going  to   take  rail   direct  for   New   York,  and 
bidding  adieu  io  an  old  companion  du  voyage,  a  Mr. 
Dunn,    of    Manchester,    England,    (as    good    a 
soul   as   ever  crossed    tlie    Atlantic),  who    had 
come  to  Montreal  in  connection  with  his  busi- 
ness, as   master  machinist,   I  took  passage  on 
board  the  steamer  "Kingston"  for  Toronto,  in 
company  with  Lieut.  Whittaker,  of  Her  Majesty's 
S3d  Regiment,*   and  a  Mr.  Wolfe,  of  London, 
England,  also  fellow  passengers,  per  "  Peruvian," 
and  proceeded  up  the  river,  avoiding  the  turbulent 
rapids  by   passing    through    canals    erected  at 
an  immense  expense. 

We  soon  arrived  at  the  village  of  Lachine, 
below  which  is  the  swift  and  turbulent  rapids, 
after  a  short  stay,  proceeded  on  our  way;  and 
although  it  was  the  latter  part  of  September,  it 
was  cold  and  cheerless  enough  in  the  country  we 
passed  through  for  January — a  terrible  cold 
country  to  live  in,  no  doubt,  especially  in  mid- 
winter. 

On  our  way  we  passed  through  the  following 
canals,  so  as  to  avoid  the  various  rapids  :  Lachine, 
Cedars,  Beauharnois,  Cornwall,  Farren's  Point, 
Rapid  Piatt,  Point  Iroquois  and  Gallop,  in  all 
about  fifty  miles  long.  A  very  tedious  time  we 
had  while  steaming  at  a  remarkably  slow  speed 
through    the  narrow  water    bed   and  intricate 

*This  young  gentleman  was  killed  in  Quebec  by  the 
brother  of  a  young  lady,'  who  he  had,  it  was  said,  seduced. 


274 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


locks  ;  bul  after  getting  through  them,  we  were 
delighted  with  the  scenery  whicii  the  beautiful 
river  afforded  us  the  next  day. 

The  first  place  of  any  note  the  steamer  stopped 
at  was  Prescott,  opposite  which,  on  the  "  Yankee 
side"  of  the  river,  as  I  heard  my  fellow  passen- 
gers say,  is  Ogdensburgh,  a  very  flourishing 
town,  and  of  far  more  importance  than  its  neigh- 
bor Prescott.  It  has  of  late  become  better  known 
as  the  point  from  which  the  Fenians  have 
attempted  frequent  raids  on  the  British  Posses- 
sions. 

Prescott,  on  the  Canadian  side,  is  a  small 
town  of  about  3,000  inhabitants;  and,  in  my 
opinion,  is  one  of  the  last  places  that  I  can  think 
of  that  I  would  like  to  reside  in.  A  more  miser- 
able, dilapidated  looking  place  is  but  seldom 
seen.  The  old  Windmill  near  the  town  is  the 
place  wherein  the  '•  Patriots"  under  Von  Sultz,  a 
Polish  exile,  established  themselves  in  1837,  but 
from  which  they  were  driven  with  severe  loss. 

A  couple  of  hours  after  leaving  Prescott  we 
were  steaming  among  the  "  Thousand  Islands," 
which  are  the  wonders  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  A 
thousand  is  no  name  for  them,  for  I  was  told  by 
tlie  Captain  of  the  steamer,  (by  the  way,  a  very 
agreeable  and  sr  '  man),  that  there  are  very 
near  double  th: '  nber.  A  most  beautiful 
sight  are  those  islands  of  various  sizes,  viewed 
as  the  stear,:er  wends  her  way  through  the  chan- 
nels which  separate  one  from  the  other,  the  pic- 


turesq 
erecte 
and  s 
pilot. 
Imr 
we  w 
afterw 
where 
suffici 
shall 
K» 
proce 
by  ar 
dale, 
glad 
short 
It 
and 
wher 
with 
exhil 
Ki 
centi 
v/ho 
of  iti 
A 
as  it 
are  I 
imm 
ably 
laid 


jh  them,  wc  were 
licii  the  beautiful 

e  steamer  stopped 
1,  on  the  "  Yankee 
ny  fellow  passen- 
very  flourishing 
ice  than  its  neigh- 
ome  better  known 
le  Fenians  have 
le  British  Posses- 
side,  is  a  small 
[Its ;  and,  in  my 
s  that  I  can  think 
I.  A  more  miser- 
e  is  but  seldom 
the  town  is  the 
ider  Von  Sultz,  a 
;lves  in  1837,  but 
ith  severe  loss, 
nng  Prescott  we 
lousand  Islands," 
5t.  Lawrence.  A 
for  I  was  told  by 
'  the  way,  a  very 
at  there  are  very 
most  beautiful 
aus  sizes,  viewed 
hrough  the  chan- 
he  other,  the  pic- 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


275 


turesque  Martello  towers  and  light  houses 
erected  on  several,  give  them  an  additional  charm, 
and  serve  as   landmarks   to  the  ever  watchful 

pilot. 

Immediately  after  passing  through  the  islands 
we  were  on  Lake  Ontario,  and  the  boat  soon 
afterwards  was  alongside  her  wharf  at  Kingston, 
where  we  stayed  two  hours,  affording  me 
sufficient  time  to  visit  a  few  places,  of  which  you 
shall  read  in  my  next. 

Kingston.— Immediately  on  my  arrival  here  I 
proceeded  to  the  British  American  Hotel,  kept 
by  an  old  friend,  M.  B.  White,  late  of  Carbon- 
dale.  Pa.,  who  was  taken  by  surprise,  but  very 
glad  to  see  me,  and  done  all  he  could  to  make  my 
short  stay  pleasant  and  agreeable. 

It  was  Agricultural  Fair  week  in  Kingston, 
and  my  friend  drove  me  out  to  the  grounds 
whereon  it  was  held.  It  seemed  to  be  conducted 
with  much  spirit  and  enterprise,  and  the  stock  on 
exhibition  was  worth  seeing. 

Kingston  was  founded  by  the  French  just  a 
century  before  the  British  came  into  possession, 
v/ho  changed  its  name  from  Fort  Frotenac  to  that 
of  its  present  title. 

A  very  pretty  little  town  is  Kingston,  situate 
as  it  is  on  the  margin  of  the  great  lake.  There 
are  but  few  if  any  places  on  the  banks  of  that 
immense  sheet  of  water  that  can  compare  favor- 
ably with  it.  It  is  delightfully  situated,  well 
laid  out,  is  one  of  the  most  important  military 


276 


O'er  the  Atlantic 


posts  in  Canada,  and  has  a  populatiun  of  about 
i2,ooo  inhabitants. 

I  spent  a  pleasant  time  in  the  company  of  my 
friend,  who  introduced  me  to  several  of  his 
acquaintances,  among  whom  was  a  distinguished 
member  rf  the  Canadian  Government,  Sir.  J.  A. 
MacDonald,  a  very  plain  and  unassuming  gentle- 
man, who  was  pleased  to  make  my  acquaintance, 
and  treated  me  with  much  courtesy  and  respect. 

The  boat  was  to  leave  Kingston  at  6  p.  m.,  and 
I  had  much  difficulty  in  tearing  myself  away 
from  my  old  friend,  who  was  very  desirous  to 
have  me  stay  with  him  a  week,  but  I  was  anxious 
to  get  home  to  my  family,  r,o  thanking  him  for  his 
kind  attention  and  promising  to  pay  him  another 
visit  during  the  ensuing  summer,*  I  took  my  leave 
and  embarked  on  board  the  steamer  just  as  she 
was  on  the  point  of  leaving.  That  night  we 
steamed  over  the  beautiful  lake,  an  ocean  in 
itself,  with  scarcely  an  air  of  wind  or  a  ripple  to 
mar  our  progress,  and  the  next  day  we  arrived 
at 

Toronto. — This  is  a  quite  a  city,  it  was  form- 
erly called  Little  York.  In  fifty  years  its  popu- 
lation has  increased  from  1,000  to  60,060,  and 
at  that  rate  of  increase,  its  population  in  a  few 
years  will  be  second  to  none  in  the  British 
Provinces. 


*  Wr.  White  sold  out  bcrore  the  "  ensuing  summer  "  and 
returned  to  Carbondale, 


TheC 

city,  wh 

navigati 

itself  is 

im  porta 

several  1 

church  ( 

of  an  E 

on  cond 

informc 

/.  e.  I 

forty  vi 

few  as  ' 

Leav 

ilton  t( 

hours, 

view  ti 

Suspen 

marvel 

Fror 

thence 

nectinj 

Scrant 

that  af 

Pittstc 

arriva' 

ment  < 

had  tr 

and  h< 


uiun  of  about 

^mpany  of  my 
several   of  his 
I  distinguished 
aent,  Sir.  J.  A. 
uiming  gentle- 
acquaintance, 
sy  and  respect, 
at  6  p.  M.,  and 
myself  away 
ry  desirous  to 
I  was  anxious 
inghim  for  his 
y  him  another 
'  took  my  leave 
ler  just  as  she 
rhat  night  we 
an   ocean  in 
or  a  ripple  tt> 
lay  we  arrived 

y,  it  was  form- 
ears  its  popu- 
o  60,060,  and 
ition  in  a  few 
n   the   British 


ing  summer  "  and 


rl 


O'er  the  Atlanftc. 


277 


The  Grand  Trunk  Railway  passes  through  the 
city,  which   adds  much,  coupled   witli   its   lake 
navigation,  to    its  commerce.      The   former   in 
itself  is  a  connecting  link  with  every  place  of 
importance  in  the  New  Dominion.     There  are 
several  fine  buildings  there,  among  which  is  the 
church  of  the  Holy  Trinity,  erected  at  the  expense 
of  an  English  gentleman  at  an  immense  outlay, 
on  condition  of  the  free  use  of  seats ;  and  I  was 
informed  that  the  main  street  is  forty  miles  long, 
i.  e.  I   suppose   it   reaches  into  the  country  for 
forty  miles,  with  dwellings  along  the  route  as 
few  as  "angels  visits." 

Leaving  Toronto  I  proceeded  by  rail  via  Ham- 
ilton to  Niagara  Falls,  where  I  spent  only  two 
hours,  which  scarcely  gave  me  sufficient  time  to 
view  the  world  renowned  P^iUs,  and  the  great 
Suspension  Bridge,  which  at  on.e  time  was  the 
marvel  of  the  age. 

From  Niagara  I  took  the  cars  for  Buffalo, 
thence  over  the  Erie  road  for  Great  Bend,  con- 
necting there  with  the  D.  L.  &  W.  R.  R.  for 
Scranton,  which  I  reached  the  next  morning,  and 
that  afternoon  arrived  at  my  residence  in  West 
Pittston,  where  there  was  much  joy  at  my  safe 
arrival  home.  I  found  my  family  in  the  enjoy- 
ment  of  good  health,  and  eager  to  know  all  that 
had  transpired  during  an  absence  of  four  months, 
and  here  ends  my  voyage  to  Europe  ! 


278 


O'tr  the  Atlantic. 


CONCLUDING   REMARKS. 

Perhaps  my  readers  would  be  pleased  to  have 
my  opinion  upon  Europe  generally,  or  in  other 
words  draw  a  line  of  comparison  between  the 
old  and  new  world. 

England  and  the  other  countries  that  I  visited 
are  as  much  ahead  of  America  in  some  instances 
as  the  latter  is  of  them  in  others.     At  present  we 

^  lack  the  permanency  and  stability  which  greets 
the  eye  of  the  American  when  in  Europe,  for 
instance,  buildings,  bridges,  railroads  and  other 
structures,  the  handiwork  of  man,  are  con- 
structed as  if  to  last  for  ages  untold ;  but  in 
America  how  different,  we  are  a  "fast  people," 
fast  in  all  our  doings,  constructing  and  erecting  in 
a  few  months  that  which  would  take  double,  nay 
treble  the  time  on  the  other  side  of  the  Atlantic  ; 
we  build  for  the  present  and  not  for  the  future, 
also,  the  American  says,  "  time  is  money,  labor  is 

^expensive,"  and  he  is  in  a  hurry  to  realize  from 
the  investment,  a  large  per  centage,  for  the 
principal  from  which  it  is  derived  is  not  going  to 
last  long.     With  the  European  it  is  otherwise, 


'.mic  IS 
cheap,  '<■ 
the  dur 
antee  c 
centage 
therefo 
a  dolla 
the  Mo 
and  du 
the  va! 
has  be( 
tion  to 

So  ; 

existec 

youth 

nent  i 

other 

But 

Eurof 

nienci 

to  rer 

travel 

steam 

when 

venti' 

whicl 

gerc 

trave 

"lug 

alwa 

he  h 


RKS. 

(leased  to  have 
ly,  or  in  other 
1  between  the 

s  that  I  visited 
iome  instances 
At  present  we 
•  which  greets 
I  Europe,  for 
ids  and  other 
fian,  are  con* 
ntold ;  but  in 
"  fast  people," 
nd  erecting  in 
ce  double,  nay 

the  Atlantic  ; 
for  the  future, 
loney,  labor  is 
o  realize  from 
itage,  for  the 
s  not  going  to 

is  otherwise, 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


279 


•imc   is  uu  consideration,  not   because  labor  is 
cheap,  acting  as  an  apology  for  time,  but  because 
the  durability  of  the  investment  is  a  sure  guar- 
antee of  a  handsome  return,  at  a  moderate  per 
rentage   ere   the   principal   crumbles  to   decay; 
therefore  in  my  opinion,  to  be  a  "cent  wise  and 
a  dollar  foolish"  is  poor  policy.      Let  us  emulate 
the  Mother  country  in  the  works  of  permanency 
and  durability,  and  our  capatalists  will  soon  find 
the  vast  benefits  to  be  derived  from  that  which 
has  been  well  done,  besides  being  a  great  protec- 
tion to  life  and  capital. 

So  let  us  hope  that  when  our  country  has 
existed  as  a  nation  fcjr  centurks,  for  it  is  in  its 
youth  as  yet,  that  it  will  be  as  thorough  and  perma- 
nent in  every  respect,  if  not  more  so,  than  any 
other  country  on  the  globe. 

But   again,    America    can    crow   louder  than 
Europe,  in  catering  for  the  comfort  and  conve- 
nience of  her  people ;  for  as  I  have  had  occasion 
to  remark  during  xxiy  voyage,  our  hotel,  saloon  and 
traveling  system  is  a  century  ahead  of  theirs,  our 
steamboats  and  railway  cars  are  moving  palaces 
when  compared  to  the  dirty,  confined  and  badly 
ventilated   little  river   and    channel   steamboats 
which  ply  in  British  waters,  and  the  hornd  passen- 
ger cars  (cattle  boxes  I  may  almost  say),  which 
traverse  British  railways,  then  their  baggage  or 
"  luggage"  system  is  abominable,  the  traveler  is 
always  "  in  a  sweat"  about  his  trunks,  for  which 
he  has  received  no  checks,  and  which  he  is  con- 


aSo 


O'er  the  Atlantic. 


tinnally  looking  and  inquiring  for  on  his  arrival 
at  statif)ns  where  he  has  to  change  carriages. 
Picture  in  your  imaginntion  the  foreigner,  per- 
haps unable  to  speak  the  language,  endeavoring 
to  single  out  his  baggage,  followed  by  half 
dozen  begging  railway  porters,  who  condescend 
to  remove  it  for  him  in  consideration  of  back- 
scesh,  and  who,  after  the  traveler  has  taken  his 
seat  in  the  carriage,  walk  up  to  the  carriage 
door,  makes  a  rustic  bow  by  tugging  at  the  hair 
of  his  head,  and  remarking  with  a  winning 
smile  and  a  grin,  "  Ma-ster,  you'l  find  your  low- 
gage  zur  on  top  of  saventh  or  aighth  carrage 
forard,  yez  zur,"  followed  by  another  tug,  smile 
and  a  grin,  then  is  handed  him  a  piece  of  coin 
which  he  slyly  accepts  with  a  ''thankee'  zur." 
So  arc  you  pestered  throughout  your  journey, 
always  in  clmrge  and  responsible  for  your  own 
baggage,  for  which  you  have  to  pay  fleecing 
porters  in  the  employ  of  the  company,  or  run 
the  risk  of  having  it  left  behind. 

There  is  a  vast  difference  in  the  style  of  living 
between  Europeans  and  Americans  generally, 
which  in  part  may  be  attributed  to  our  Republi- 
can Institutions,  and  to  the  amount  paid  for 
labor,  for  the  United  States  classes  far  ahead  of 
all  Europe  in  giving  compensation  for  labor ;  for 
instance,  a  good  artisan  will  obtain  here  from 
three  to  five  dollars  per  day,  while  in  Great 
Britain,  a  person  possessing  the  same  ability  will 
receive  from  three  shillings  and  sixpence  to  seven 


shill 
fron 
Swii 
low( 
in  c 

n 

the 

styl 

of  1 

less 

the; 

leai 

cla; 

&c. 

/ 

wit 

anc 

wit 

•be 

sui 

in^ 

tal 
vei 
ph 
fai 
tal 
tal 
T( 


en 


'_  - 


For  on  his  arrival 
hange  carriages, 
c  foreigner,  per- 
igc,  endeavoring 
silovved   by   half 

who  condescend 
eration  of  back- 
tr  has  taken  his 

to  the  carriage 
;ging  at  the  hair 
tvith  a  winning 
'1  find  your  low- 

aighth  carrage 
lother  tug,  smile 

a  piece  of  coin 
.  ''thankee'  ztir." 
t  your  journey, 
Ic  for  your  own 
to  pay  fleecing 
ompany,  or  run 

2  style  of  living 
leans  generally, 
to  our  Republi- 
mount  paid  for 
es  far  ahead  of 
jn  for  labor ;  for 
btain  here  from 
while  in  Great 
lame  ability  will 
ixpence  to  seven 


O'er  the  Atlantic.  -iSi 

shillings  and  sixpence  per  day,*  and  in  France 
from  three  to  fivo  francs  per  day.  In  Ocrmany, 
Switzerland  and  Russia  the  average  is  inucli 
lower,  indeed,  I  may  say,  ^-'most  a  mere  pittance 
in  comparison  even  with  France. 

Having  obtained  the  daily  necessaries  of  life, 
the  Europeans,  /.  e.  the  laboring  class,  leave  the 
style  of  dress,  the  extreme  of  fashion,  to  persons 
of  wealth  and  position,  and  are  content  with  a 
less  unpretending  style,  indeed,  I  may  say,  that 
they  generally  adopt  the  primitive  costumes, 
leaving  even  an  attempt  at  fivshion  to  the  middle 
classes,  or  men  and  women  in  business,  clerks, 
&c.,  who  put  it  on  very  sparingly. 

A   servant  girl   who  would  ape  her  mistress 
with  white  satin  bonnet  trimmed  with  flowers, 
and  a  heap  of  hair  as  large  as  a  peck  measure, 
with  veil,   parasol    and  flounced    dress,    would 
■  be  laughed  and  jeered  at  in  the  street  for  pre- 
suming to  ape  her  betters.     They  are  expected 
invariably  to  dress  befitting  their  station  in  life. 
Then  so  far  as  dieting  is  concerned,  in   par- 
taking of  the  necessaries  to  sustain  life,  they  are 
very  frugal,  seldom  or  ever  partaking  but  the 
plainest  of  food  and   no  variety.     Very  simple 
fare  indeed  is  that  generally  made  use  of.      It 
takes  but  very  little  to  sustain  life  if  we  but  par. 
take  of  that  only  which   is  beneficial  to  health. 
To  be  temperate   in  all  things  is  the  true  phi- 

•  Laborers  get  from  los.  to  15s.  per  week,  and  farm  labor- 
ers less  than  that  even. 


28i 


O'er  the  Atlantic, 


losophy  of  living.  Would  I  could  sny  as  miu-li 
(^r  Amcriciins,  but  I  cannot.  There  is  more  truth 
than  fiction  in  the  remark,  "  \Vc  eat  fast,  drink 
fast,  work  fast  and  die  fast." 

Tliat  wc  are  degenerating,  physically,  both 
I  male  ^-ind  female,  especially  the  latter,  there  is 
[but  lit,tle  doubt,  who  need  more— shall  I  say 
.exercise  .'  Then  would  they  come  forth  with  the 
iblpptp  9f  hefijith  mantling  their  cheeks,  and  a 
ifirrp  step,  depqtipg  sound  health,  comfort  and 
ihvppipess.— In  Eurr^pe  a  ypung  lady  immedi- 
Htely  after  njarri^ige  is  anxJQus.tc;)  enter  upon  her 
household  duties,  so  that  she  may  show  how  skill- 
ful she  is  in  the  various  duties  .fljppertaining  to 
the  kitchen  and  laundry.  To  go  ;iind  board  in 
a  hotel  or  elsewhere,  would  be  considered  by  a 
married  couple  the  greatest  of  absurdities. 

fi  must  now  draw  these  remarks  to  a  close,  and 
jl .  tr^t  that  I  have  said  nothing  herein  to  dis- 
jpleascT^py  of  my  fair  readers,  but  trust  the  facts 
ifti^rrated  ,jv;i.ll  be  accepted  in  the  spirit  they  are 
^\\Hifi—/,or/tl{eir  benefit. 


.As  littl 
ouching 
Kuropt', 
remarks 
[uturu  (ir 

There 
It)  Eutof 
icDnomi 
fore  conj 
more  pa 

To  ni 
which  it 
it  seemc 
more  tl 
underta 
up'theii 
it  frequi 
uceomji 
inude, 

they  asi 
moistei 
tliey  wf 
days  of 
of  imir 


could  sfiy  as  miicli 
rhcrc  is  more  truth 
\Vc  eat  fast,  drink 

,   physically,   both 
the  latter,  there  is 
more— shall    I  say 
r»me  forth  with  the 
eir  cheeks,  and  a 
ilth,   comfort   and 
ing  lady  immedi- 
t9  enter  upon  her 
fiyshowhowskill- 
:s  .ii(P,pertaining  to 
1  go  #nd  board  in 
i  considered  by  a 
absurdities. 
rks  to  a  close,  and 
ing  herein  to  dis- 
but  trust  the  facts 
he  spirit  they  are 


Appendix. 

TO   TOLKIsrs   AM)   OTIIKRS. 

As  little  or  nothinK  has  bet-n  said  in  the  preceding  pages 
ouching  the  expense  and  manner  of  traveling  to  and  in 
Kurope,  I  would  respectfully  submit  the  following  pertinent 
remarks  to  the  consideration  of  those  who  may  at  some 
(mure  time  have  occasion  to  visit  that  country : 

There  are  but  few,  in  proportion  of  the  thousands  who  go 
10  Europe  vearly  from  this  country,  who  have  not  to  study 
iconomv  (more  or  less),  during  the  journey.  I  shall  there- 
fore confine  myself  in  the  few  remarks  I  am  about  to  make, 
more  particularly  to  that  subject. 

To  make  a  voyage  to  Europe  in  these  days  is  not  that 
which  it  was  twenty  years  ago  and  upwards.  In  those  days 
it  seemed  as  quite  .iui  undertaking,  and  it  took  a  person  of 
more  than  ordinary  aerve  when  not  compelled  to  go  to 
undertake  it.  Months  we&e  occupied  by  persons  in  making 
uptheir  minds;  to;  undertake  ;a  long  and  perilous  voyage,  for 
it  frequenlly  took  as  many  weeks  .as  it  now  takes  days  to 
ac«omiilish;the  passage.  Very  extqn^iv^  preparations  were 
niuae,  friends  and  acquaintances  talked  of  M,  as  if  they 
u«i«>ne.ver  to  ;meet  again,  and  when  the  time  c^n>e  to  de  par  J 
they  assembled  around  the  voyager  to  bid  him  fare^vell.  .wit;J 
moistened  eyes  and  hearts  too  full  for  utterance,  as  thought 
they  were  committing  his  body  to  the  deep  ;  but  now  m  the 
days  of  steamships,  of  the  most  approved  build,  with  engines 
of  immense  power,  which,  when  once  put  in  motion  m  tho 


■V, 


284 


Appendix. 


bay  of  New  York,  novcr   cease  working*  until  (he  ship', 
arrival  in  an  European  port. 

Indeed,  a  voyage  to  and  from  Europe,  has  ceased  to  be 
thought  of  as  anything  extraordinary  outside  the  dailv 
occurrences  ,f  life.  A  person  makes  up  his  mind  to-dav 
and  is  gone  to-morro^.f  Thousands  unon  thousands  of  our 
people  yearly,  from  the  millionaire  and  merchant  prince,  to 
the  laboring  man,  cross  the  great  Atlantic  highway  without 
scarcely  giving  it  a  thought.  All  the  world  and  their  wives 
go,  some  on  business,  others  on  pleasure,  and  many  to  vi.it 
relatives  and  friends  ;  but  to  the  point. 

Having  made  up  your  mind  to  go,  it  is  not  necessary  you 
Should   make   any  preparation    outside    of  setting   "your 
bouse  in  order."  /.  ,.  if  you  are  in  business,  arrange  that  so 
much  as  possible  to  your  satisfaction,  insure  your  life,  and 
lastly,  ,f  you  have  anything  to  leave,  make  your  will,  for  not- 
withstanding  the  short  time  it  takes  to  go  and  come,  there  is 
still  more  or  less  danger  attached  to  the  voyage,  of  which  we 
have  had   of  late,  I  am  sorry  to  say,  abundant  evidence 
\etw,thal.weare  as  liable  and  are  frequently  called  awav 
from  off  terra  firma  as  suddenly  as   those  who   make  the 
ocean  their  temporary  home.    A  small  trunk  or  valise.  large 
enough   to  contain  an  extra  suit  of  clothes,  a  Scotch  cap, 
half  a  dozen  shirts,  half  a  dozen   pair  of  socks,  with  the 
necessary  under  garments,  a  pair  of  slippers,    and   yonr 
toilet  articles,  together  with  a  shawl  or  overcoat  on  your  arm 
IS  all  you   need,  for  when  you  arrive  in  Europe  you  caft 
purchase  clothing  of  very  superior  quality  for  at  least  half 
the  price  you  can  here.    There  is  no  doubt  of  this  even  with 
our  currency  at  par.    I  advise  from  experience,  for  purchase 

*  There  are  exceptions,  but  they  are  very  rare.    Nieht  and 
day  are  they  kept  going  until  arrival  of  the  ship  in  porl. 

tA  friend  of  the  author's  left  the  port  of  New  York  uDon 


' 


you  wi 
IndifTe 

As 
expen! 
at  1. 15 
sum  \ 
person 
able  n 
fro,*  h 
supply 
which 
York, 
respec 
sierlin 
investi 
from  a 
him  fri 
balanc 

You 
room  ( 
cmbar 
you  ar 
Strang 
board, 
almosi 
being 
the  shi 
are  on 
love  1 
comes 
and  fr< 
sailor, 

*P< 
class  n 
gentle 
steera, 
but  th 


Appendix. 


^85 


■orking*  until  (he  ship's 


-uropc,  has  ceased  to  be 
nary  outside  the  dailv 
kes  up  Ills  mind  to-cl:iv 
Is  unon  thousands  of  our 
and  merchant  prince,  to 
\tlantic  highway  without 
le  world  and  their  wives 
asure,  and  many  to  visit 
nt. 

',  it  is  not  necessary  you 
tsidc  of  setting  "youi 
Jusiness,  arrange  that  so 
on,  insure  your  life,  and 
,  make  your  will,  for  noi- 
to  go  and  come,  there  is 
the  voyage,  of  which  we 
iay,  abundant  evidence 
2  frequently  called  away 
>  those  who  make  the 
ill  trunk  or  valise,  large 
clothes,  a  Scotch  cap, 
lair  of  socks,  with  the 
of  slippers,  and  your 
)r  overcoat  on  your  arm, 
i'e  in  Europe  you  caft 
quality  for  at  least  half 
doubt  of  this  even  with 
xperience,  for  purchase 


' 


;  very  rare.    Night  and 
of  the  ship  in  port. 

ort  of  New  York  upon 
;  of  hours  after  making 


you  will  when  you  get  there,  so  be  content  with  a  small  and 
indifierent  wardrobe  when  starting. 
,  As  regards  the  amount  of  money  necessary  to  pay  the 
expenses  of,  say  a  three  months  trip,  with  gold  as  it  is  now, 
at  1. 15,  I  would  estimate  the  amount  at  $500  in  gold,  which 
sum  would  be  amply  sufficient  to  enable  any  respectable 
person  to  make  the  trip  we  did  in  a  pleasant  and  comfort- 
able manner,  which  would  include  cabin  passage  to  and 
fio,*  hotels,  railway  fares,  incidental  expenses,  and  a  decent 
supply  of  necessary  articles  of  clothing  and  souvenirs,  with 
which  sum  procure  a  letter  of  credit  of  Brown  Bros.,  New 
York,  on  Brown,  Shipley  &  Co.,  of  London,  or  any  other 
respectable  house  ol  the  kind,  for  its  equivalent  in  pounds 
sterling,  the  safest  and  best,  as  well  as  most  convenient 
investment  a  traveler  can  make,  for  it  entitles  him  to  draw 
from  any  bank  such  sums  as  he  actually  requires  to  carry 
him  from  place  to  place,  and  at  the  same  time  the  amount  or 
lialances  in  the  banker's  hands  is  accruing  interest. 

Your  passage  money  being  paid,  you  are  assigned  a  state 
room  or  berth  on  board  the  steamer,  and  you  are  ready  to 
embark.  The  hour  having  arrived  for  you  to  be  on  bgard, 
you  are  there,  where  perhaps  every  face  you  encounter  is  a 
stranger  to  you,  and  you  feel  amid  the  din  and  bustle  on 
board,  where  everything  at  the  time  is  confusion,  that  you 
:ilmost  repent  the  steps  you  have  taken.  The  moorings  are 
being  cast  off,  the  pilot  is  in  charge,  and  in  a  few  minutes 
the  ship  is  steaming  down  the  bay,  and  in  as  many  hours  you 
are  on  the  blue  Atlantic,  far  away  from  those  you  perhaps 
love  better  than  all  the  world  beside.  Then  a  change 
comes  over  you.  You  feel  depressed,  heavy.  You  reel  to 
and  fro.  Wonder  what  is  the  matter.  Ah  !  my  "  fresh  water 
sailor,"   you  are  sea  sick.     Yes,   very.     Down  you  go  to 

*  Per  Inman,  Anchor  or  National  line  of  steamers,  a\\  first 
class  and  inexpensive  lines,  commanded  by  experienced  and 
gentlemanly  officers.  A  second  cabin,  intermediate  or 
steerage  passage  would  decrease  the  cost  in  proportion  ; 
but  the, latter  I  would  not  recommend  to  any  person. 


Ir 


386 


Appendix. 


your  berth,  which  you  find  with  difficulty ;  and  there  lay 
yourself  down  "  more  dead  than  alive,"  not  caring  whether 
you  survive  or  not,  and  wishing  from  the  bottom  of  your 
heart  that  you  had  remained  on  ti,m  Jirma.  But  it  is  too 
ate,  there  are  no  back  doors  to  run  through,  so  you  must 
be  content,  and  there  I  leave  you  for  perhaps  two  or  three 
days. 

You  are  now  three  days  out.     You  are  on  deck,  seated 
not  walking,  for  as  yet  you  have  not  your  "  sea  legs"  under 
you.      You  "  feel  better,  yes,  much,"  and  wish  vou  "  could 
eat  something  ;"  but  alas,  •'  cannot  retain  anything  on  your 
stomach.      There  are  none  but  your  fellow  passengers  that 
sympathise  with  you,  all   of  whom,  perhaps,  are  as  sick  as 
yourself,  for  it  is  a  common  occurrence  ;  but  day  by  day  you 
gam  strength,  and  with  it  comes  back  yourappetite.  and  by 
the  time  you  are  on  the  banks  off  Newfoundland,  you  arc 
perfectly  well,  have  become  acquainted  with  some  congenial) 
spirits  arjd  reconciled  to  your  fate.    Then,  when    weather 
permits,  follow*  the  usual  games,  gotten  up  through  the 
kindness  and  courtesy  of  the  officers,  who  know  well  how 
to  wile  away  the  monotony  of  a  voyage  at  sea.     By  and  by 
you  strut  up  and  down  the  quarter  deck  arm  in  arm  with, 
perhaps,  one  of  the  gentler  sex.  with  the  dignity  of  a  son  of 
N  eptune,  forgetful  of  the  past  and  hopeful  of  the  future 
ihus  you  go  along  from  day  to  day  avoiding  all  familiarity' 
being  simply  courteous  and  polite  to  all  you  come  in  con^ 
tact  with,  till  at  last  the  ship  has  arrived  at  her  port  of  des- 
tination.  and  all  is  hurry  and  bustle  to  get  on  shore.    Not 

'^C^trnJ"^"  !!  coolly,  there  is  time  enough,  for  the 
last  shall  be  first."  You  leave  the  ship  in  good  time, 
having,  while  apparently  loitering,  satisfied  yourself  by 
inquiries  made  of  several  persons  who  have  come  on  board. 
6f  a  good,  respectable  second  class  hotel  to  sojourn  at.  by 
^hich  you  have,  notwithstanding  your  seeming  tardiness 
gained  timei 

And  now  that  you  are  safely  over,  a  choice  of  route  from 
.he  pom,  of  debarkation  (if  the  one  we  took  will  not  11^ 


must 
mone 
excus 
and  ( 
Britai 
datioi 
respe 
charg 
of  CO 

to  or( 


Wi 
more 


Tea, 

Lodg 

Breal 

Dinn 


Ad 
a  con 

Th 
that 


ifficulty;  and  there  lay 
'e,"  not  caring  whether 
om  the  bottom  of  your 
ra  fima.  But  it  is  too 
1  througli,  so  you  must 
r  perhaps  two  or  three 

J   are  on  deck,  seated, 
your  "  sea  legs"  under 
and  wish  .vou  "could 
Jtain  anything  on  your 
fellow  passengers  that 
>crhaps,  are  as  sick  as 
ce  ;  but  day  by  day  you 
:  your  appetite,  and  by 
Newfoundland,  you  arc 
d  with  some  congeniali 
Then,  when    weather 
otten  up  through  the 
i,  who  know  well  how 
ge  at  sea.     By  and  by 
leek  arm  in  arm  with, 
the  dignity  of  a  son  of 
liopeful  of  the  future 
'^oiding  all  familiarity, 
all  you  come  in  con- 
ed at  her  port  of  des- 
to  get  on  shore.    Not 
time  enough,  for  the 
!  ship  in  good   time, 
satisfied  yourself  by 
have  come  on  board, 
otel  to  sojourn  at,  by 
r  seeming  tardiness, 

choice  of  route  from 
'e  took  will  not  suit), 


Appendix. 


287 


must  be  left  to  yourself,  which  has  to  be  governed  by  taste, 
money  and  time.  But  go  wherever  you  may,  there  is  no 
excuse  for  you  putting  up  unless  you  desire  it,  at  first-class 
and  expensive  hotels,  for  in  Europe,  especially  in  Great 
Britain,  you  can  get  very  superior  and  select  accommo- 
dation, with  every  polite  attention  shown  you,  in  plenty  of 
respectable  hotels  and  coflfee  houses  for  one-third  the  cost 
charged  in  the  first-class  hotels.  For  instance,  and  by  way 
of  comparison,  read  the  following  bills,  both  being  served 
to  order ; 

THE  FIRST-CLASS  HOTEL. 
(style.) 

Tea,  2S.  6d.,  supper,  2S.,       -      -      -    £,0.  4s.  6d, 

Lodgings, -     2S.  6d. 

Breakfast,        -        -        -        -        -        -     3s.  od. 

Dinner,  -..---     3s.  6d.  to  5s. 

Attendance, 2s.  6d. 


Total  per  day,   .        .        -        -     £,0.  i6s.  (xi. 
Without  wine,  which  you  are  expected  to  call  for  (say  5s. 
more),  a  sum  equal  to  five  dollars  of  American  gold. 


THE  SECOND-CLASS  HOTEL. 
(comfort.) 
Tea,  (cold  meat,  ham  or  chops),      .... 

Lodging,  ( 'ood  accommodation) 

Breakfast,  (fish,  steak,  chops,  or  ham  and 

eggs),    -    -    -    -    ' '    - 

Dinner,  (roast  and  boiled  meats,  with  vege- 
tables, pastry,  &c.),       .    .    .    .    ^    ^    ^ 


Jo.  IS.  6d, 

IS.  &d. 

IS.  8d, 

es.  od: 


Total  per  day, /o.  6s.  8d; 

Add  to  the  latter  occasionally,  a  trifle  for  attendance  and 
a  couple  of  glasses  of  ale,  in  all  about  one  shilling  additional: 

There  are,  howevci,  houses  quite  as  respectably  conducted, 
that  you  can  live  at  a  much   cheaper  rate  than  even  6s 


I 


288 


Appendix, 


Sd.  per  day,  or  §1.50  of  our  American  money.*  I  simply 
quote  prices  of  hotels  that  will  compare  favorably  with  first 
and  second-class  American  hotels.f 

In  Europe,  like  most  countries,  you  will  find  plenty  "on 
the  make,"  and  as  Americans  are  known  to  be  very  liberal, 
they  are  the  more  imposed  upon.  You  might  give,  give  all 
day  and  to  no  purpose  ;  but  be  guided  by  your  own  good 
judgment  in  that  respect,  When  attendance  is  charged  for 
in  the  bill,  I  see  no  necessity  of  giving  to  servants,  yet 
they  expect  it,  waiters  especially.  Cabs  and  omnibuses  are 
quite  an  institution,  and  are  conducted  upon  a  system  that 
unless  you  are  very  stupid  you  cannot  be  overcharged, 
carrying  you  for  a  very  rca.sonable  compensation  to  any 
pomt  you  wish  to  go.t  I  wish  I  could  say  as  much  of  the 
cabs  in  the  city  of  New  York. 

Then,  while  on  the  road,  travel  in  a  third-class  passenger 
car.  You  are  perfectly  safe  and  free  from  insult,  and  by 
domg  so  you  save  half  the  fare  vou  would  pay  in  a  secon/ 
class  carriage,  and  two-thirds  that  you  would  have  to  pay- 
in  a  first-class  carriage  ;  and  putting  aside  the  style,  the 
luxury  of,  and  riding  more  select,  you  ride  a  la  Amcique, 
lacking  style  and  conveniences  onlv,  traveling  equally  as 
fast  as  your  fellow  passengers  who  have  the  pleasure  or 
privilege  of  paying  half  or  two-thirds  more  to  travel  by 
the  same  train.  Indeed,  gentlemen  of  wealth,  position  and 
refinement  (unaccompanied  by  ladies),  can  be  seen  riding 
daily  in  third-class  carriages  in  Great  Britain.  The  fares  are 
Id.,  2d.  and  3d.  per  mile.     In  conclusion  :  Always  look  well 

niw-i"'".V*  which,  especially  in  London,  and  other  large 
places,  there  are  houses  termed  "  Commercial  Boarding 
Hotels,  or  small  unlicensed  private  hotels.  Such  houses 
combine  economy  with  the  comforts  of  a  home. 

Britain.'"*'  °"  "'"  ^'°"''"^"'  '^  """^l'  ^''^aper  than  in  Great 

..ni  The  laws  regulating  cab  hire  are  very  strict  in  London 
and  Pans,  and  gre  as  strictly  observed  by  ihe  Jehus, 


;an  money.*     I  simply 
are  favorably  with  first 

II  will  find  plenty  "  on 
own  to  be  very  liberal, 
oil  might  give,  give  all 
led  by  your  own  good 
L-ndance  is  charged  for 
;iving  to  servants,  yet 
lbs  and  omnibuses  are 
ed  upon  a  system  that 
nnot  be  overcharged, 
compensation  to  any 
Id  say  as  much  of  the 

third-class  passenger 
e  from  insult,  and  by 
'ould  pay  in  a  secont".. 
ou  would  have  to  pay 
i  aside  the  style,  the 
tu  ride  n  la  Ameiique, 
'.  traveliug  equally  as 
have  the  pleasure  or 
Is  more  to  travel  by 
r  wealth,  position  and 
),  can  be  seen  riding 
iritain.  The  fares  are 
on  ;  Always  look  well 

don,  and  other  large 
ommercial  Boarding 
hotels.  Such  houses 
'  a  home. 

heaper  than  in  Great 


very  strict  in  London 
by  the  yehus. 


Appendix. 


389 


to  your  baggage,  if  you  have  any  apart  from  yourself,  for  there 
is  no  system  adopted  like  that  in  United  States  for  the 
transportation  of  baggage,  and  if  heavy  to  handle  you  will 
find  it  necessary  to  fee  a  railway  porter  occasionally,  so  as 
to  prevent  it  being  left  behind,  especially  at  a  point  where 
you  have  to  change  cars.  And  in  France  you  have  the 
additional  trouble  of  submitting  it  to  be  searched  thoroughly 
at  the  depot,  your  ticket  too,  where  it  has  to  go  through 
quite  a  quantity  of  red  tape,  apart  from  which  I  think  the 
baggage  system  preferable  to  that  of  Great  Britain. 

And  now  having  said  all  that  I  d?em  necessary  for  the 
guidance  of  those  contemplating  a  trip  to  Europe,  I  will 
lay  my  pen  aside,  and  bid  you  a  final  adifu. 

THE  AUTHOR. 


M 


'H 

'l 

If, 


ii 

iFi 
',1 


1 


The  Author's   Address, 

DELIVERED   BEFORE  THE   "  P.  C.  C,"  ON  THE  OCCASION  OF  HIS 

RETURN  FROM  EUROPE,  AND   IN  REPLY   TO  THE 

FOLLOWING  SENTIMENT  : 

"  The  health  of  Capt.  Wbyte  and  lady— may  their  recent 
tour  to  the  Old  World,  and  their  return  to  their  family  and 
friends,  be  an  epoch  in  their  lives  of  continued  happiness 
and  sweet  reminiscences  long  to  be  remembered  by  them," 

Worthy  Chief  and  Clansmen  of  the  Pittston  Cale- 
DONIA  Club:  I  have  no  language  sufficient  t9  express 
myself  on  this  occasion,  for  I  feel  somewhat  deficient  in 
that,  sometimes  vulgarly  called  gab,  and  in  the  first  place  for 
fear  I  may  make  a  break  down,  permit  me  to  thank  you  for 
this  very  kind  reception.  A  reception  as  flattering  as  it  is 
undeserving,  for  I  am  not  aware  of  my  having  done  any 
thing  to  deserve  so  much  of  your  notice,  and  although  I 
have  not  been  in  the  habit  of  making  speeches,/,  e.  speaking 
in  public-.-I  must  nevertheless  in  return  for  so  much  kind- 
ness, do  my  endeavor  to  give  you  a  brief  account  of  my  late 
trip  to  Europe,  but  believe  me,  I  would  rather  walk  a  mil ; 
than  talk  a  minute. 

The  8th  of  June  saw  me  leave  this  country,  and  after  a 
stormy  passage  of  fourteen  days  I  landed  in  Auld  Ireland,  a 
coun.'ry  as  green  as  that  gem  it  is  so  often  compared  to  ; 
well  may  it  bo  called  the  Emerald  Isle  for  a  beautiful  and 
picturesque  country  \s-£rin  indeed,  and  her  people  a  warm 
hearted  and  generous  race.  I  visited  and  passed  through 
many  of  the  cities  and  to^vns  of  Ireland,  among  which  I 


ma 

pic 

sav 

ace 

dw 

hal 

cro 

\ 

cap 

sor 

hea 

had 

son 

it  t< 

friei 

to  V 

his 

beei 

vied 

plea 

was 

spo( 

yard 

allie 

ratio 

such 

once 

fami 

bye.' 

O 

lighl 

the  I 

worl 

nolit 

labyi 

span 

from 


'v-=-'r, 


Appendix, 


991 


ddress, 


HE  OCCASION  OF  HIS 
EPLY   TO  THE 

^ — may  their  recent 

to  their  family  and 

ontinued  happiness 

fiembered  by  them," 

HE  PiTTSTON  CALE- 

ifficient  t9  express 
newhat  deficient  in 
in  the  first  place  for 
me  to  thank  you  for 
s  flattering  as  it  is 
1  having  done  any 
ce,  and  although  I 
eches,  i.  e,  speaking 
I  for  so  much  kind- 
account  of  my  late 
rather  walk  a  mil ; 

>untry,  and  after  a 
in  Auld  Ireland,  a 
ften  compared  to  ; 
or  a  beautiful  and 
her  people  a  warm 
id  passed  through 
J,  among  which  I 


may  name  Londonderry,  Belfast  and  Dublin,  all  of  which 
pleased  me  very  much,  but  to  give  you  an  account  of  all  I 
saw  in  Ireland  and  elsewhere,  is  more  of  a  task  than  I  could 
accomplish  this  evening,  you  must  therefore  excuse  me  from 
dwelling  at  length  on  the  beauty,  industry,  commerce  and 
habits,  of  various  places  and  the  people,  and  allow  mc  to 
cross  the  Irish  channel  into  old  Cymru. 

Wales,   Gwalia,   land  of  my   nativity,  with   its  cloud- 
capped    hills  and   delightful  vales,  the   land   of  mirth  and 
song,  abounding  with  antiquities,  sacred   to   the    Briton's 
heart,  had  undergone  great  and  many  changes  ;  indeed,  such 
had  been  the  march  of  improvement  that  had  it  not  been  for 
some  old  land  marks  still  left,  I  would  have  scarcely  believed 
it  to  be  the  tand  of  my  birth.      Many  dear  relatives  and  old 
friends  had  gone  to  their  long  home,  and  but  few  remained 
to  welcome  him  who  had  spent  some  twenty-eight  years  of 
his  life  in  foreign  lands,  but  those  few,  who,  like  myself,  had 
been  permitted  to  linger  a  little  longer  on  this  old  planet, 
vied  with  each  other  to  make  my  sojourn  among  them  as 
pleasant  and  agreeable  as  possible.    Oh  !  how  delightful  it 
was  to  meet  and  discourse  with  old  friends,  to  wander  over 
spots  where  I  had  played  in  my  youth,  to  visit  the  old  church 
yard  wherein  lay  all  that  was  once  mortal  of  those  so  nearly 
allied  to  me,  and  to  survey  with  solemn  thought  and  admi- 
ration the  castellated  ruins  of  Cambria's  ancient  fortresses- 
such  was  my  enjoyment,  that  when  the  time  came  for  me  to 
once  more  bid  farewell  to  all,  and  to  so  much  that  was  dear  and 
familiar  to  me,  I  could  scarcely  articulate  the  word  "  good 
bye."     Leaving  Wales  I  went  into 

Old  England,  the  land  wherein  my  father  first  saw  the 
light,  dear  to  me,  if  only  for  that  reason.  He  was  born  in 
the  great  city  of  London,  now  perhaps  the  largest  city  in  the 
world,  commercially  it  certainly  is.  London  with  its  Metro- 
politan under  ground  railway,  traversing  through  dark 
labyrinths  beneath  its  ever  busy  and  thronged  streets,  and 
spanning  the  great  city  with  its  three  million  of  inhabitants, 
from  east  to  west,  is  a  marvel  in  itself;  while  such  places  as 


i^2 


Appendix. 


the  Bnimh  Museum  with  its  hordes  of  antiquities,  VVestmin- 
sler  Abbey  with  its  colossal  monuments  of  various  ages 
National  Gallery,  with  its  beautiful  pictures,  the  Tower  with 
■IS  dunReons,  cells  and  armory  glittering  with  ancient  and 
modern  instruments  of  war  and  torture,  and  other  places  ..f 
much  note  must  be  seen  to  be  appreciated. 

While  in  England  I  visited  many  of  its  cities  and  towns, 
lor  instance  the  great  commercial  cities  of  Manchester  Liv- 
erpool  and  Bristol,  and  other  places,  seeing  all  that  I  deemed 
worthy  of  note,  and  then  crossed  over  channel  to 

FRANCK—Landing    at     Dieppe.    I    proceeded    direct    to 
Pans  the  centre  of  Parisian  life.    Of  France.  I  may  trulv  sav 
that  Pans  is  France.    Commercially  it  is  not.  for  there  is  but 
ittle  done  m  commerce,  in  proportion  to  the  size  and  popu- 
li'tmn.  but  otherwise  \  may  call  it  France.     A  wonderful  citv 
IS  Pans,  now  claimed  to  be  the  finest  city  in  the  world,  exter- 
nally  it  may  be.  for  with  its  broad  avenues,  public  drives  and 
promenades,   its   public    and    loftv  buildings  of  beautiful 
arcniteclure,  white  as  ntarblc.  some  of  which  are  gorgeous 
w.th  the  spoils  of  war.  it  certainly  is  not  only  beautiful  but 
magnificent.     I  was  fortunate  enough  to  be  there  during  the 
Fetes  de  Napoleon,  a  national  holiday  like  that  of  our  Fourth 
of  July,  upon  which  occasion  the  French  people  don  their 
best  apparel  and  go  in  for  lots  of  enjoyment,  and  the  whole 
city  at  night  is  brilliantly  illuminated.     The  Champs  Efysees, 
which  is  the  finest  of  the  public  drives  or  promenades,  the 
J'lnce  de  la  Concorde,  Place  de  Vendome,  the  Hue  Rwoli,  the 
gardens  of  the  Tuilleries  and  other  places,  with  their  tens  of 
thousands  of  gas  lights,  shaded   with  red  and  white  glass 
globes,  formed  the  most  brilliant  spectacle  I  ever  witnessed 
—it  was  fairy  land  on  earth. 

The  Exposition,  a  decided  success,  is  the  most  admirable 
and  well  arranged  building  that  the  human  mind  could 
possibly  conceive  for  such  a  purpose,  i.  e.  the  interior,  so 
well  arranged  is  it,  that  the  visitor  cannot  fail  to  see  all  that 
IS  on  exhibition,  and  so  far  as  products  are  concerned,  every 
civilized  nation  on  the  globe  is  represented  there,  yes,  even 


in  1: 

Ain< 

the 

freel 

agii 

with 

the  r 

.\< 

huilc 

is  no 

erect 

can  I 

nificc 

derfu 

Britii 

Wl 

the  fi 

in  thi 

the  r 

pictu 

lofty  ■ 

miles 

Bel 

the  ol 

cottoi 

much 

antiqi 

many 

of  En 

In  ( 

aside 

round 

interei 

remarl 

the  pe 

finery 

water  i 


ntiquities,  VVesimin. 
Jts  of  various  ages 
ures,  the  Tower  with 
ng  with  ancient  and 
,  and  other  places  o*^ 
ed. 

Is  cities  and  towns, 
of  Manchester,  Liv- 
ngall  that  I  deemed 
lannel  to 

■oceedcd  direct  to 
ince,  I  may  truly  say 

>  not,  for  there  is  but 

>  the  size  and  popu. 

A  wonderful  city 
in  the  world,  exter. 
s,  public  drives  and 
dings  of  beautiful 
'hich  arc  gorgeous 
t  only  beautiful  but 
l)e  there  during  the 
that  of  our  Fourth 
h  people  don  their 
lent,  and  the  whole 
he  Champs  Elysecs^ 
)r  promenades,  the 
»e  Rue  RivoH,  the 
1,  with  their  tens  of 
d  and  white  glass 
le  I  ever  witnessed 

he  most  admirable 
iman  mind  could 
t.  the  interior,  so 
fail  to  see  all  that 
!  concerned,  every 
ed  there,  yes,  even 


Appendix.  aoj 

in  language,  costume,  habit  and  diet.  For  instance,  in  the 
American  Rest.iurant,  a  beautiful  placi-,  a  la  Ameriqut,  could 
the  indomitable  Yankee  hear  his  native  tongue  spoken 
freely,  dine  on  pork  and  beans,  and  assuage  his  thirst  with 
a  gin  cock  tail,  brandy  smash,  mint  julep,  sherrv  cobbler,  or 
with  any  of  the  multifarious  cooling  drinks  out  of  one  of 
the  most  modern  of  American  soda  fountains. 

•Now  a  few  words  about  the  exterior  of  this  great  hidden 
building.  So  insignificant  is  the  appearance  of  it,  that  there 
IS  no  line  of  comparison  to  be  drawn  between  it  and  that 
erected  in  Hyde  Park,  London,  in  1851,  evidence  of  »vhich 
can  be  seen  at  Sydenham  to-day,  the  finest  and  most  mag. 
nificent  place  of  the  kind  no  doubt  in  the  world.  A  won- 
derful  monument  to  the  indomitable  will  and  energy  of  the 
British  people  ;  but  to  my  theme. 

While  in  Paris  I  visited  places  of  rare  antiquity,  and  saw 
the  finest  statuary,  pictures  and  paintings  (those  around  and 
in  the  Palace  of  the  Louvre  and  Versailles  especially),  that 
the  most  talented  artists  or  old  masters  ever  produced  ; 
pictures  to  be  counted  by  the  mile..  As  they  hang  on  the 
lofty  walls,  imagine  to  yourselves  walking  and  viewing  seven 
miles  of  pictures,  but  such  is  the  fact  at  Versailles. 

Before  bidding  adieu  to  France,  I  visited  ancient  Rouen, 
the  old  capital  of  Normandy,  now  styled  from  its  numerous 
cotton  factories,  the  Manchester  of  France.  I  was  verj- 
much  interested  with  every  thing  I  saw  there,  so  full  of 
antiquities  is  it,  and  in  the  neighborhood  are  the  scenes  of 
many  hard  fought  battles  waged  between  the  hostile  armies 
of  England  and  France. 

In  conclu«on  of  my  remarks  on  France,  I  may  say  that 
aside  of  the  magnificence  and  beauty  of  Paris,  with  its  sur- 
roundings  and  antiquated  Rouen,  that  I  saw  nothing  to 
interest  me  elsewhere  or  on  my  route,  Paris  being  as  I 
remarked  before,  France.  Gobbling  up  immense  sums  of 
the  people's  money  to  make  and  keep  it  so  ;  yet  with  all  its 
finely  and  gaiety  it  needs  much  sanitary  reform,  it  needs  less 
water  in  the  public  fountains,  of  which  there  are  thousands 


2  94 


Appendix, 


perhaps,  and  more  in  the  pnhlic  and  private  dwellings,  and 
lastly,  the  able  suprrintondcncc  of  a  Hoard  of  Health,  svich 
as  that  of  New  York  and  ilsi-whcrc  ;  hut  I  am  inclined  to 
think  that  ert-  reformation  takes  place,  rebellion  will  have 
done  more  than  can  be  undone  for  gencralioiiH  untold. 

I  have  occupied  your  attention  somewhat  longer  than  I 
intended,  but  will  have  to  crave  it  for  a  short  time  longer,  so 
as  to  make  a  few  remarks  respecting, 

SroTiAN-n.— The  land  which  gave  the  majority  of  you 
birth,  the  land  of  a  Hrucc,  a  Wallace,  a  Burns,  and  a  Scott, 
and  from  which  our  Club  takes  its  name.  Having  one  line 
day  reached  Carlisle  after  a  stay  of  a  few  days  at  the  Wind- 
ermerc  Lakes,  the  iron  horse  soon  propelled  me  over  the 
border,  and  steaming  along  at  a  more  than  rapid  rate  soon 
found  myself  in  Melrose,  there  to  see  the  old  Abbey,  of 
which  Sir  Walter  Scott  gives  so  fine  a  description  in  his  lay 
of  the  "Last  Minstrel."  It  is  even  now  a  magnificent 
specimen  of  Gothic  architecture.  Then  how  grand  it  must 
have  been  in  its  day,  unrivalled  no  doubt.  I  must  continue  my 
journey  north,  "  for  time  is  on  the  wing.'  Away  the  iron 
horse  sped  once  moie,  ganging  along  the  banks  of  the 
"lovely  Tweed,"  rendered  so  famous  in  the  poetry  of  Hums, 
away  pass  princely  Abbottsford,  once  the  abode  of  Scotia's 
genius,  Crcichton  and  Borthwick  Castles,  famous  in  the  time 
of  the  ill-fated  Mary,  and  I  am  soon  in  sight  of  the  Firth  of 
Forth,  and  ere  long  in  Edinboro. 

A  beautiful  city  indeed  is  the  modern  Athens,  J  except  not 
even  gay  Paris,  for  it  pleased  me  the  most,  and  when  I  say 
that  if  circumstances  would  permit  I  would  like  to  reside 
there,  which  in  itself  is  sufficient  to  convince  you  of  how 
much  I  was  struck  with  its  natural  beauty  and  grandeur. 
While  here  we  visited  the  Castle,  saw  Queen  Mary's  room 
wherein  James  VI  was  born,  the  regalia  of  Scotland's 
Kings  and  Queens,  Holyrood  Palace,  Scott's  and  other 
monuments  and  many  other  places  of  note. 
I  know  that  you  would  like  to  hear  me  speak  of  all   I 


saw 
amoi 
Stua 
wi'\ 
roon 
appr 
\y 
turc! 
"Tw 


Th 
Tam 
mine! 
time 
brair 

Iv 
very 


Vi 
Rob! 
mcnt 
John 
Dooi 


Or 
other 
it,  an 
the/i 
nortli 
Scoti 
Bonn 
the  b 
purpi 
inten 


Appendix, 


29s 


private  dwellings,  ami 
Hoard  of  Health,  such 

;  hut  I  am  inclined  tn 
ce,  rebellion  will  have 
ncraiioiis  untold, 
niewhat  longer  than  I 
a  short  time  longer,  so 

the  majority  of  you 
,  a  Burns,  and  a  Scott, 
mv?.  Having  one  line 
few  days  at  the  Wind- 
iropclled  me  over  the 
e  than  rapid  rate  soon 
3e   the  old   Abbey,  of 

description  in  his  lay 
1  now  a  n)a%-nificent 
:n  how  grand  it  must 
t.  I  must  continue  my 
ng."  Away  the  iron 
ng  the  banks  of  the 
1  the  poetry  of  Hums, 
the  abode  of  Scotia's 
es,  famous  in  the  time 

sight  of  the  Firth  of 

1  Athens,  J  except  not 
most,  and  when  I  say 

would  like  to  reside 
ronvincc  you  of  how 
)eauty  and  grandeur. 

Queen  Mary's  room 
egalia   of   Scotland's 
e,   Scott's  and  other 
note, 
r  me  speak  of  all    I 


saw  in  Scotland,  "but  it  can't  be  did,"  suffice  it  to  say  that 
among  others,  I  visited  Linlithgow,  the  favorite  resort  of  the 
Stuarts,  the  field  of  Hannock-burn,  wherein  "  Scots  wha  hae 
wi' Wallace  bled,"  was  in  Stirling  Castle,  "iaw  the  Douglas 
room,  and  the  Wallace  monument  on  the  Abbey  Craig,  now 
approaching  I  am  glad  to  s.iy  completion. 

I  was  in  Dumbarton,  smoky  and  busy  Glasgow,  and  pic- 
turcsque  Ayr,  where  I  saw  the  Wallace  Tower  and  the 
"  Twa  Brigs,"  and  sat  in  the  room  wherein  the  Hard  says, 

"The  nlcht  dravc  on  wi  sangs  and  clatter. 
And  ay  the  ale  was  growing  better." 

There  sat  myself  down  gently  in  the  old  .irm  chairs  of 
Tarn  O'Slianter  and  Souter  Johnny,  and  drank  in  moderation 
mind,  out  of  that  old  cup,  the  contents  of  which  at  one 
time,  we  are  informed,  so  completely  turned  poor  Tam's 
brain. 

I  was  in  the  immorLil  Burns'  native  cottage,  and  I  saw  the 
very  spot  where,  as  he  says. 


-"  A  blast  o'  Janwai'  win, 


Blew  hansel  in  on  Robin." 
Visited  Alloway  Kirk,  saw  ;'ne  grave  of  the  father  of 
Robin  and  that  of  Souter  Johnny,  the  great  Bard's  monu- 
ment, a  temple  of  classic  beauty.  Tarn  O'Shantcr  and  Souter 
Johnny,  looking  as  natural  as  life,  and  the  Auld  Brig  o' 
Doon,  whereon 

"  The  Carlin  claught  her  by  the  rump. 
And  left  puir  Maggie  scarce  a  stump." 

On  the  auld  Brig,  recently  restored,  I,  like  thousands  of 
others,  admirers  of  the  poet,  rudely  inscribed  my  name  on 
it,  and  should  either  of  you  ever  visit  there  you  will  find  it  on 
the  Unlh  stone  which  surmounts  the  right  hand  wall  ganging 
north  ;  and  now  having  satisfied  myself  by  visiting  old 
Scotia,  I  have  to  tell  you  truthfully,  well  may  it  be  called 
Bonnie,  for  its  scenery  is  grand,  picturesque  and  sublime, 
the  blooming  heather  covering  the  mountain  tops  as  with  a 
purple  mantle,  and  that  I  am  not  at  all  surprised  at  Sandy's 
intense  love  and  admiration  for  his  bonnie  Scotland. 


I 


\' 

left 

"coi 

.      Pi 
read 

Pi 

"Pc 
Pi 

"  an 

P.- 

"40c 
Pii 

Peel 
Pa 

read 

Pa 
"the 

Pa 
Oder 

Pa 

•ry." 

Sai 
read 

Pai 
Medi 

Paj 
Nava 

Pa, 
ously 

Pa, 
"  heln 


E  R  R  A  r  A  . 


PaKC  17.     Pri-fiice-Noif.— For  "tripe,"  iiiul    'strlpi-." 
Page  34.     Note— I'or  "wind  nlT  lijrjit  Low,"  riM.i  "wind  ,>|) 
left  bow." 

I'aKc  3(j.  [„isl  lii.i;  — l-„r  "  .omposod  ol  l-ccf  si<ii|<,'  i,:,,! 
"conipiiscd  of  hcuf  sieal<." 

.      PaRcfij.     i;i,^hili  line  from  l.Diio.n— For  "Fort  of  ("vlii." 
read  "  Fort  of  (Jytii." 

Paxe  64  Note.-For  "  Hurliyn  Slat.;  yiiarrii-s. '  n.;,,! 
"  Pcurhvn  Slate  guarrii.s." 

PaKC  69.  Last  line.—Fo.  "hands  of  .Morpli.-us,"  nad 
"arms  of  Morpheus," 

PaKe  80,  Eighth  line  from  top— For  "  4wxj  uri,."  njui 
"400  men," 

Page  94.  Sixth  line  from  top— Foi  'cousin  to  Kolurt 
Peel,"  read  "cousin  to  Sir  Koheri  Peel." 

Page  88,  Fifth  line  from  bottom— For  "  IJIanmurKaii," 
read  "  (ilamorgan." 

Page  97.  First  line— For  "the  former  two  places,"  read 
"  the  former  and  latter  places." 

Page  u8.  Last  line—For  "Caer  Odoi,"  read  "(air 
Oder." 

Page  145,  Second  line  from  top— For  "Goberlin  tapes- 
Iry,"  read  "Gobelin  tape.stry," 

Same  page.  Fourteenth  line  from  top— For  "  \'erri," 
read  "  Verrio." 

Page  169.  Eleventh  line  from  to,)— For  "Cuharine  <!(• 
Medicis,"  read  "  Marie  de  Medici.';." 

Page  171.  Sixth  line  from  bottom- For  "Princess  fo 
Navarre,"  read  "  Princess  of  "  Navarre." 

Page  182.  Eleventh  line  from  bottom— For  "  it  r.in  luri- 
ously  by,"  read  "as  it  ran  furiously  by." 

Page  191.  Third  line  from  top- For  "henilet,"  read 
"  helmet." 


J^ 


m, 


y 


